Okay so I have a Yamaha HTR 5930, and the sub output worked fine, I looked all over the manual, and the only setting it seems to have is setting bass to either front speakers, the sub, or both and Iv'e tried setting bass to both sub and both. The sub output will not work at all. it's hooked up to my Auzentech Home Theater HD sound card on SPDIF coax out, Iv'e tried all the digital outputs, and Iv'e tried the garbage realtek mobo output, Iv'e tried my TV's optical output, the cable box optical output doesn't work either with the sub output. Iv'e tested an ipod on the Velodyne woofer and it works fine. Iv'e also tried the RCA of my studio monitors on the sub output just to see if it will put anything out and got nothing. I do get a small buzzing sound from the sub output and that's IT, no actual audio output. Iv'e tried music sources, and DTS sources, tried my blue ray player as well. I think the sub output is legitimately broken or I'm retarded and missed a setting
My subwoofer is a Velodyne ULD18, 400 watt class B ULD Series II Servo Controller; 10 ohm amplification into the 18 inch woofer with it's 5..7 cu ft box. the sub pushes 104db @ 20 Hz with 0.5% Total Harmonic Distortion, from the driver itself, this is not the amplification THD. -3db cutoff is 14Hz, and it can push over 120db with still under 3% THD @ 20Hz. An interesting note? It's THE PRIME DRIVER for the Velodyne ULD 18 model.
The above was stated so that you know I'm not just a retarded person who forgot to plug his cable in. I generally know how speakers work, and how to build them, but I'm working on being able to fix amplifiers. Funnily enough, it's a LOT easier to build an amplifier from a kit full of 200 little parts and a schematic, than fixing random old amps, like my Soundstream Class A 10.2 1000 watt RMS class AB amp which is 1/4 ohm stable and no longer working, lol.
Anyway, I tore apart the Yamaha, and looked to see if I could find a loose connection on the RCA output of the sub out connector, and it's SOLID. No burnt parts, no blown fuses or busted/buldging capacitors either.
I looked for a battery or something to take out to reset all the settings to factory default, but I couldn't find a battery, no idea how it remembers it's settings (just in case the remote possibility of that being the problem, me having a weird setting or something)
One thing I noticed RIGHT AWAY:
This thing seems to have WAY higher quality parts in it than a 10 year old budget surround sound receiver would have. Iv'e seen worse parts in amps MANY times the price I paid ($45 on creigslist, since my NAD T751 broke, and I couldn't repair it)
The NAD definitely had better parts, but this actually has better specs. 110watts a channel with 0.9% THD is AWESOME for a $45 receiver, @ 50 watts it has about .07% THD I believe, so basically it will work with almost any speakers you could throw at it. You may even be able to bridge the channels and go on channel B to use it as a dedicated subwoofer amp, and if it's not 2 ohm, 4 ohm stable, just wire two HIGHLY efficient 4 ohm drivers in a series to be 8 ohms, and you have at LEAST 220 watts RMS with under 1% THD, possibly more if it can handle 4 ohms, or if it pushes out more with slightly more THD (not sure if it can actually be bridged yet thought)
Anyway, I'd really like a solution as to why I can't use my world class subwoofer anymore, and it's really really pissing me off.
Oh, and I would be using analogue surround sound output from my sound card, but for whatever reason, the sound card only works on digital now, I think the OPAMP fried from the heat of my highly overclocked graphics card right next to it. I will have to order a new opamp for it sometime soon, and analogue out when the card works is like 0.00003% THD on the front out and dedicated headphone amp (also doesn't work), and somewhere around .003THD for all the other channels. I'm really hoping the opamp will make my card work perfect, because that would solve my problem entirely, but I'd also really like this receiver to work properly.
My subwoofer is a Velodyne ULD18, 400 watt class B ULD Series II Servo Controller; 10 ohm amplification into the 18 inch woofer with it's 5..7 cu ft box. the sub pushes 104db @ 20 Hz with 0.5% Total Harmonic Distortion, from the driver itself, this is not the amplification THD. -3db cutoff is 14Hz, and it can push over 120db with still under 3% THD @ 20Hz. An interesting note? It's THE PRIME DRIVER for the Velodyne ULD 18 model.
The above was stated so that you know I'm not just a retarded person who forgot to plug his cable in. I generally know how speakers work, and how to build them, but I'm working on being able to fix amplifiers. Funnily enough, it's a LOT easier to build an amplifier from a kit full of 200 little parts and a schematic, than fixing random old amps, like my Soundstream Class A 10.2 1000 watt RMS class AB amp which is 1/4 ohm stable and no longer working, lol.
Anyway, I tore apart the Yamaha, and looked to see if I could find a loose connection on the RCA output of the sub out connector, and it's SOLID. No burnt parts, no blown fuses or busted/buldging capacitors either.
I looked for a battery or something to take out to reset all the settings to factory default, but I couldn't find a battery, no idea how it remembers it's settings (just in case the remote possibility of that being the problem, me having a weird setting or something)
One thing I noticed RIGHT AWAY:
This thing seems to have WAY higher quality parts in it than a 10 year old budget surround sound receiver would have. Iv'e seen worse parts in amps MANY times the price I paid ($45 on creigslist, since my NAD T751 broke, and I couldn't repair it)
The NAD definitely had better parts, but this actually has better specs. 110watts a channel with 0.9% THD is AWESOME for a $45 receiver, @ 50 watts it has about .07% THD I believe, so basically it will work with almost any speakers you could throw at it. You may even be able to bridge the channels and go on channel B to use it as a dedicated subwoofer amp, and if it's not 2 ohm, 4 ohm stable, just wire two HIGHLY efficient 4 ohm drivers in a series to be 8 ohms, and you have at LEAST 220 watts RMS with under 1% THD, possibly more if it can handle 4 ohms, or if it pushes out more with slightly more THD (not sure if it can actually be bridged yet thought)
Anyway, I'd really like a solution as to why I can't use my world class subwoofer anymore, and it's really really pissing me off.
Oh, and I would be using analogue surround sound output from my sound card, but for whatever reason, the sound card only works on digital now, I think the OPAMP fried from the heat of my highly overclocked graphics card right next to it. I will have to order a new opamp for it sometime soon, and analogue out when the card works is like 0.00003% THD on the front out and dedicated headphone amp (also doesn't work), and somewhere around .003THD for all the other channels. I'm really hoping the opamp will make my card work perfect, because that would solve my problem entirely, but I'd also really like this receiver to work properly.
