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Need help picking out a good screen paint....

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
There seems to be a lot of experts on DIY screen paint mixtures. Was wondering if you could give me some help...I have an Epson Home Cinema Powerlite 8350...throw distance of 12 ft for optimal performance (I'm told) on a 120" screen. Theater is in the basement with controlled light (dimmer switches on can lights)...as of now I'm projecting onto my concrete basement wall...I texture all of the walls except for the 120' diagonal space...they projection wall is dark brown the other walls are lighter brown and a darker blue...there isn't any carpet just colored concrete (darker shades)....the ceiling is white now but debating on painting it black if it will help. I smoothed over with sheetrock mud to cover the small holes on the concrete wall where the screen is being projected....I was going to buy a fixed screen but I have crazy cats and think they may tear it up so I've decided I should probably mix my own...I've seen maxmudd and silverfire and I'm not sure which is the best one for my setup. Also I'm unsure if I should paint the wall and make a 1X4 border and glue felt to it or use sintra board or possbily a mirror...was wondering the benefits of using a mirror...logically it seems like it would be flat not sure if the reflective surface would do anything since it would be painted....also I live in Kansas City and was wondering where I could purchase Sintra board or something else that might work...was thinking that would work better than directly on the wall in case my house eventually settles and I get a crack or something? What do you guys think? I would be greatful for any helpful hints...thx again biggrin.gif!
post #2 of 7
Hello!

First things first, you definitely do not want to use the concrete block wall for a screen.

Ok... Now that we have that settled.... wink.gif

Paint the ceiling a very dark shade of flat gray or is very dark shade of blue in satin.

We can easily locate a sheet of Sintra for you in the kansas city area.

As for the screen paint itself, if you do take care of that ceiling then RS-MaxxMudd will do a great job in your circumstance


Hey
I'm about to shoot right by kansas city in about 30 minutes, because I'm on the road driving to denver colorado. I'm using " speech to text" to avoid potential disaster, so please excuse grammar errors.
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thx MississippiMan! for the info...just to be clear the wall isn't concrete blocks but a solid concrete pour...wasn't sure if that was an error from voice texting or if you just meant one giant concrete block......anyhow it's not cinder blocks.....seeing how the house will eventually settle I would think it wouldn't be a good idea anyhow...

I would be in debt to you if you could locate a pc of sintra in the KC area redface.gif....I'm projecting a 120" screen right now although I could go a little larger but not much as the speaker wire to my surround sound is run thru stainless steel piping (for aesthetics) surrounding the screen area and won't allow to go to much bigger maybe 128" diagonal. Also another thing I haven't measured is what size I could fit down there...I just finished it and was carrying full pcs of sheet rock...I think the door is a 36 possibly a 32...anyways I'll measure and let you know

Can I roll the RS-MaxxMudd or is that a spray only...I remember seeing that you could only roll one of them...if I can't roll I don't mind spraying...I'd have to buy a new one though as my Milwaukee died on me. I've seen some people are just using cheapo Wagners...if that'll work that's great although I haven't had much luck spraying paint thru them....seems like they are made more for finishes like laquer or stain and sometimes it seems that even needs to be thinned...

Too bad I wasn't online while you were driving thru could've had a beer and showed you my digs...built my house in 2006 and added the theatre and recording studio last summer....still works in progress...I'll post pics sometime soon.

The ceiling I will paint a dark grey that's not an issue...another question I had was about the mirrors...I see some people like using them as screens..is that just because they are flat? My buddy works at a glass plant and I may be able to get some to use for a good deal but it still may be more than the sintra...saw you had quoted a guy $95.00 for something real similar in CA in another post.

I'm pretty handy...I designed and built much of my house so this shouldn't be an issue...I had built houses for 10 yrs and have spent the last 8 working in an office ...still always working on home projects...I do like doing stuff right the 1st time and that's why I've been taking my time with the screen...I was thinking of just using pine 1X4 with a routed edge for the trim and gluing the felt on with that really sticky 3M spay....do you have any other ideas that aren't real expensive...I've seen the stick on border but not sure how good that would look?

Would the sintra go to the trim or would it be under the trim or does it matter? Reason I'm asking is I'm mounting this to a concrete wall and I'll have to use flat headed tapcons and sink them flush then apply the felt.

Do I just use Kiltz for the 1st layer? Also can you explain the difference between the silver fox and maxx mudd or maybe just tell my why one is better than the other....Thx again for all of your help...it's greatly appreciated!!smile.gif
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
Just found this guy...do you know what thickness and color I would want to use? Thx again

Kansas City
Address
3901 NE 33RD TERRACE SUITE C
KANSAS CITY, MO 64117

Manager
Joe Wolf

Phone877-757-1707
816-452-7771
Fax816-452-7772
kansascity@lairdplastics.com



Sent him an email to get an idea of the cost.....
Edited by FunkeeChild - 8/6/12 at 12:24pm
post #5 of 7
Hey Funkee,

You want to ask for 120" x 60" x 6mm in White

Have them cut it down to 104" x 60" to allow for 2" extra space surrounding a "image area" of 100" x 56" (114" diagonal) You can then use the Tapcons, but I also suggest to apply some non-hardening Elastomeric Silicone Adhesive Caulk in the approximate center area to prevent any chance of centralized bowing out.

Then you would apply "Mitered Corner" 1/2" x 3.25" Primed MDF Baseboard Trim over the 2" boarder area. My strongest suggestion is to wrap the Trim with Black Velvet acquired from this source:
http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Triple-Velvet/681/264
...using this Tutorial: http://www.avsforum.com/t/865218/wrapping-black-velvet-on-trim-with-mitered-or-butt-joined-ends


Sprayer of Choice: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRACO-HV2900-39-CFM-450W-HVLP-House-Paint-Spray-Station-Machine-System-Painter-/230791007590
Best price anywhere....free shipping too!

You absolutely want to spray by choice....not because of "need". It produces a far superior finish no matter what paint you use.
post #6 of 7
Thread Starter 
Thx MM...very much appreciate your insight....

1st question is which MaxxMudd? I see several versions 2.0 and Low Light and retro ect.....after looking over them for a sec it seems like it's probably RS-MaxxMudd v.2.1 (is that correct?)

2nd kinda sux that I can't go the full 120" diagonal but I spoke with the Sintra people and 120"X60" is the biggest pcs they carry. Since I have to screw the board to the concrete wall your stating that I need two inches of clearance on all sides...is that because it won't hold if I go less....do you think I could go less confused.gif....if I could just do a 1/2" on the two sides (full 60 inches) and 2" (109 inches) on the top and bottom do you think it would be a big deal? I'm unfamiliar with this mat'l and don't want to take any chances....I also realize this could pose issues with the trim although I don't see why I couldn't shim out the side pcs to so the trim isn't sitting at an angle...

I realize I have to screw into the Sintra and then cover my screws with the trim it's the only way to hide them...another idea I had was filling the holes over the screws but I'm almost sure that I would notice them...have you ever heard of anyone doing this?

Lastly, can't find the link that shows where to purchase all of the RSMaxMudd stuff I see people say Menard's but don't believe there is one in my area...if there's one store I could get it all I wouldn't mind ordering all online and only having to pay a shipping charge once...

Thx Again
post #7 of 7
Securing the Sintra to the wall using the least possible space for screws isn't the issue....it's the fact that when you have such a narrow area of secured contact, the board will tend to bow out from the secured area. As stated previously, at minimum your want to use a adhesive to keep the center of the Board from potentially springing out. Of course you can do it.....but it would take additional steps to make it really a viable route to go down. Whether you use Anchors or Sel Tapping Screws, the Trim would have to be routed or come with a recessed area that would overlap the Screws without rising up. PITA...and in any case, everything has to be pretty damnable precise or you might not have the exact Formatting needed, or the assembly itself might look a bit (...or alot...) "hodge-podgee". We can't have that!!!

Now...iffin' it were me, It's just temporarily put up a 4'-6' x 1x3 "ledge" to set the Sintra on to rest while I let adhesive do "ALL" the attachment to the wall. Furgudnessake....it's a concrete wall, t'aint nunthin you can put on it you can't get back off with a bit of elbow grease.

Consider this....you put up your ledge.....apply adhesive liberally to the back side of the Sintra ( Liquid Nails for Mirrors maybe?) and press it into place. If you have the Sintra source cut it down for you to 107" x 60", you'll have a 60" x 13" piece remaining. Chop that up into at least a eight pieces, and then place them around the outside perimeter edge of the Sintra. Now taking at least 4 -66" x 3" x 1' sticks of Pine, screw those sticks into / through the little pieces of Sintra, (...use Tapcon Self Drilling Screws...) and make them act like surface clamps to hold the Sintra firmly against the wall while the adhesive sets up. Don't rush the drying time! If it says 24 hrs...give it 48 hrs before you take the strips down.

So now, you can simply make Trim that will butt up against the edge of the Sintra and cover any / all of the previous Screw Holes. The Trim itself can be put up using daubs of Adhesive as well. Or Heavy Duty Velco

It all seems so easy and simple to me from where I'm sittin'....on my arse, a'doing nuthin.... wink.gif
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