Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 
I see.
First, p5brownen advise, is on the money
imo using color temp cool; is probably your biggest problem but I guess you have no choice in the matter.
The bars I guess you are talking about are from AVSHD disc, they are probably green/gray at the high end and green at the lower end. That being the case I wouldn't worry to much about that because of the high light level setting you are probably using, it sounds like you are very limited to what changes you can make. You are using the glasses when viewing the test pattern.
You may want to try a Gamma target of 2.4
I really don't know much about a UT50 or using the service mode, and in my case because I use two meters, one to profile from, one to profile to, I can place my C6 meter very close to the screen because I don't need to use glasses when doing a 3D calibration. So this gives me a lot more flexibility on were I place the meter and also window size.
I ran a LUT cube calibration using a meter profile with the glasses last night running a 21 point GS, anyway I ended up with a dE2000 GS avg. of 1.0 and a CMS of dE2000 of 2.0. I also ended up with a Gamma of about 2.46 (target was set at 2.4). None of my 21 point GS was above 3, however in the gamut orange and sky blue was above 3 but under 5. Gamma was not flat lined but there was no peaks or valleys.
ss
Quote:
Originally Posted by sillysally
^^^^
Why not simply use your BD player to play back your AVS disc for the window patterns. Why not use 2.2.2 and 16/235.
Also why have your meter so far away from your display, and try different window sizes.
Also beware that your Panasonic can shift from 3D to 2D mode, there by changing anything you have pre set in whatever 3D mode you are using back to a 2D mode settings.
Experiment with different color temp modes
imo you should start over and keep how you setup things as simple and direct as possible, stay with the basics until you get a good understanding on how this all works.
Also beware of IR from your window patterns, because IR from window patterns can and will put your new calibration settings off.
Service menu, bad idea.
With the UT50 the only place to adjust white balance is in the service menu. In the Calman walkthrough (for v.4) is says 18 inches is typical so the active shutter glasses can still talk to the TV. Every time I shut the TV off to go back to 3D and check setting changes I have have turn the glasses off and on again to re-sync with the TV. With the UT50 since the only place to adjust white balance is the service menu I only have 3 color temps (options) available for white balance. I used warm for cinema mode and normal for custom mode, that's why I'm using cool for 3D white balance. In my graph above green is pretty heavy on the low end, if I cut green would it be problematic at the high end because green is already at max for its high end? When I check the brightness pattern it's basically green bars flashing on the screen instead of black/gray so I know it needs to be cut. I also learned I get the best results by using "Manual 3D" mode and having left and right images separate, that helped a lot in getting good readings.
^^^^
Why not simply use your BD player to play back your AVS disc for the window patterns. Why not use 2.2.2 and 16/235.
Also why have your meter so far away from your display, and try different window sizes.
Also beware that your Panasonic can shift from 3D to 2D mode, there by changing anything you have pre set in whatever 3D mode you are using back to a 2D mode settings.
Experiment with different color temp modes
imo you should start over and keep how you setup things as simple and direct as possible, stay with the basics until you get a good understanding on how this all works.
Also beware of IR from your window patterns, because IR from window patterns can and will put your new calibration settings off.
Service menu, bad idea.
With the UT50 the only place to adjust white balance is in the service menu. In the Calman walkthrough (for v.4) is says 18 inches is typical so the active shutter glasses can still talk to the TV. Every time I shut the TV off to go back to 3D and check setting changes I have have turn the glasses off and on again to re-sync with the TV. With the UT50 since the only place to adjust white balance is the service menu I only have 3 color temps (options) available for white balance. I used warm for cinema mode and normal for custom mode, that's why I'm using cool for 3D white balance. In my graph above green is pretty heavy on the low end, if I cut green would it be problematic at the high end because green is already at max for its high end? When I check the brightness pattern it's basically green bars flashing on the screen instead of black/gray so I know it needs to be cut. I also learned I get the best results by using "Manual 3D" mode and having left and right images separate, that helped a lot in getting good readings.
I see.
First, p5brownen advise, is on the money
imo using color temp cool; is probably your biggest problem but I guess you have no choice in the matter.
The bars I guess you are talking about are from AVSHD disc, they are probably green/gray at the high end and green at the lower end. That being the case I wouldn't worry to much about that because of the high light level setting you are probably using, it sounds like you are very limited to what changes you can make. You are using the glasses when viewing the test pattern.
You may want to try a Gamma target of 2.4
I really don't know much about a UT50 or using the service mode, and in my case because I use two meters, one to profile from, one to profile to, I can place my C6 meter very close to the screen because I don't need to use glasses when doing a 3D calibration. So this gives me a lot more flexibility on were I place the meter and also window size.
I ran a LUT cube calibration using a meter profile with the glasses last night running a 21 point GS, anyway I ended up with a dE2000 GS avg. of 1.0 and a CMS of dE2000 of 2.0. I also ended up with a Gamma of about 2.46 (target was set at 2.4). None of my 21 point GS was above 3, however in the gamut orange and sky blue was above 3 but under 5. Gamma was not flat lined but there was no peaks or valleys.
ss
