CalMan 5 Release Notes and Discussion - Page 30

Looks like it was a licensing snafu.

Colorchecker will be re-enabled in the next beta and the official 5.1 release.

my point is if I can do a dark cal without having to remove the meter from the display, that would be ideal... so does light get in if I use the attachment with the suspension strap on it (which has a black foam lining around the edges and around the actual opening where the light goes into the meter to reject ambient light... also, I can calibrate at night if the black foam is not enough)
Edited by PlasmaPZ80U - 1/28/13 at 7:55pm

I don't think I'd do that unless 100% of the environment light is off.. Light could travel in the glass/between panel and glass

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

are you referring to the gap between the glass and the PDP on plasma screens or LED/LCD screens too?

No! It must be initialized in it's stand. The stand must have the same serial number as the i1 Pro. It's doing more than just initializing dark level, it's calibrating the meter as well. You can easily prove this to yourself. Initialize the meter in it's stand, then take a reading of a 100 % IRE pattern. Now, initialize the meter against anything else. Take a reading of the same pattern. You'll notice the two readings do not agree. An i1 Pro initialized to something other than a stand with a matching serial number is worthless.

Cool. that'll work.

the plate is not needed for our purposes (though you can use it to), only for running the diagnostics and reflectance measurement.

It is required for the i1Pro2 for a dark init because it also does a sensor alignment check.

yes to be clearer, my posts are in regards to the i1Pro Rev D and before , which njfoses has and though PlasmaPZ80U may have the 2 I believe now (or is that the other avs user with Plasma in his name?) , his question continued the conversation with "the meter", kirnak references the i1Pro, the plate is not required... may want to edit and change to the i1Pro 2

Edited by turbe - 1/28/13 at 10:44pm

Interesting. Now that you mention it, when I tested it I as doing reflectence measurements. I'll have to try it out again emissive.

The extension arm looks interesting. Do you have a link on where to purchase?

Just to clarify, I have a i1Pro1 (Rev D).

My original question was whether the black surface of an LCD screen (when off) would be acceptable for taking dark readings, provided ambient light could be blocked from the sensor. The advantage of this of course being able to do dark readings every 10 mins without the need to remove the meter from the screen and re-center it again (which can be a real pain to do again and again).

Note: The Dark Reading Plate has a White Dot, made of a certain material and White Density, not Black.

I purchased the Spectracal C6 and Profile to it from the i1Pro. No more Dark Reading issues.
What I can't understand is why for each of the Meters is so good on it's own, why there's such a discrepancy between each Meter's readings? Definitely, do not like the results from the C6.

I know Joel thought this was not acceptable , but one of the pros once told me I should set the side button in calman to initialize and once your have done your initial dark reading, just cover the hole with your thumb and hit the button, done. I have been doing this and it seems to work just fine. The white part of the tile is for diagnostics when the internal light is used. At least that is how I understand it.

just PM for a link to additional pics, info and options.. I'll PM you now though

There are two avs forum members that post often with nics close to each other.. I think the other has an i1Pro2 but I get you two mixed up in posts sometimes..

just make sure to block out all light...

Yep, I was wrong earlier. I had done a lot of reflectance testing a year or so ago. I noticed that it made a huge difference whether you initialized with the plate or just a dark substance. Apparently, it's setting an offset for the internal light. What I don't understand is why the readings are different for different plates. If you initialize with one plate, and then the plate from a different i1 Pro, the readings you then get off the exact same material will be different. I don't understand this behavior, but there it is. Ideas?

I have 2 i1Pros sitting side by side. One Enhanced, the other Non-Enhanced. I prefer the Non-Enhanced on my LG. Didn't know about the Plate and Serial Numbers having to jibe. Will have to look tonight since I've probably been mixing and matching over several years. Maybe the Enhanced will work better if I Dark Read off the Non-Enhanced Plate - Nahh! Then again, you never know!

My understanding now is that only affects reflective readings (using the internal light) not emissive readings (measuring light off of a screen or TV.) However, seeing as you have two, could you check that? Measure the same pattern after initializing one i1Pro with two different plates? The we could know for sure. I would, but I no longer have access to a second plate... Thanks!

The i1Pro initializes for relfective readings, using the white tile.
For emissive use it just needs a dark reads on something completely opaque (not the translucent glass of a switched off TV).

For the most part the i1Pro2 is the same, but...
For the i1Pro2 we can do a mechanical alignment offset, but we need to be on the base to do it.

So inside CalMAN we require the base on the i1Pro2 for both read types, so that we can recalculate the offset.

interesting... I have measured 3 EH series Samsung LED-LCDs (EH5000, EH6000, and EH6030) with S-PVA panels and the readings from the i1pro1 using the LCD Direct View (LED Backlight) mode are extremely close to the C6's measurements in LCD Direct View (Wide Gamut White LED) mode or LCD Direct View (White LED) mode for that matter. Using just LCD Direct View mode on the i1pro1 only makes a tiny difference from the LCD Direct View (LED Backlight) mode on that meter

if I was to cover the TV in a thick black drape/blanket would that work fine?

Is it completely opaque?

How comfortable are you with fibers near the the measurement orifice of the i1?

Quick question! Do you think it would be a good idea to buy a Colormunki Photo (which is a spectro) to go with my i1Display Pro?

I've been reading about profiling and was wondering if it was a good idea to buy the Colormunki Photo to profile my i1Display Pro for accuracy when calibrating different displays... I know an i1Pro or i1Pro2 would be a better choice, but they're too expensive for me.

After I profile the i1Display Pro with the Colormunki Photo, I could use both to calibrate a display.

(Of course, I also have to upgrade my CalMAN Basic to CalMAN Control... I'm just trying to see if it's all worth it!)

Thanks in advance for your opinion!

Absolutely, for all of your questions!

the ColorMunki Spectro is my second choice

Cool, man, thanks! I wasn't sure because everybody was all about the i1Pro in here. :P But I don't have a G to spend on that right now. The Photo @ less than half of that is well within my range...

check out this Thread about the Munki


.

On the LG 55LHX - the C6 reads too high on the Red. Profiling with the i1Pro tames it down. The 3360 LED Backlight must throw the C6 off?

I sent you a PM.

My results: Using my i1Pro, mounted directly to the screen (C6 currently attached to my TriPod) and painter's tape to mark where the Meter and holder strap are, to try and get the Meter back to the same spot after each Dark Reading.
#1 - Is there a difference in readings between Activations on two different Plates. Yes
#2 - Activation on same plate two times in a row - different readings, but a lot closer than the Different Activations!

Conclusions:
#1 - Meter on Screen calibrations are definitely not the way to go. Tripod gives a lot better over all average.
#2 - No matter how careful you are about returning the Meter to where you did the last reading after doing a Dark Reading, the results won't be the same. Forget the Dark Readings except between Work Flows.
#3 - If you're like me, and have 2 Meters, make sure the Plate and Meter Match re Serial #s. (And guess what, my Meter I've been doing all my calibrations with for the past while, was on the Wrong Plate!)
#4 - If possible, use a C6 to Profile to. This way time is not of the essence, re Dark Readings. If Dual Meter combos is too expensive - look into Renting the i1Pro to get your Profile, or, if you're lucky, someone else in your near vicinity and has the i1Pro or 2, will allow you to borrow his, or come over with it to make the profile.
#5 - Due to continuing changes in atmosphere, electrical values, etc - I always do a New Profile before each calibration session. It only tales a minute.
#6 - After calibration, before deciding on how your results look, turn the TV Off, wait a few seconds, then turn back on. Does sort of a reset to the New Values.