New JVC DLA-X75R/DLA-RS56 $7,999 projector with 3D RF glasses and E-shift CEDIA 2012 - Page 2

Very interested in how 3D is, one common complaint about previous JVC projectors was that it was not bright enough...

Murray, what is your screen gain and was 120" wide or diagonal?

Actually last years models such as the RS55 were MUCH brighter in 3D than the RS50. However, there was a lot more crosstalk that went with it and the crosstalk cancel feature didn't do much of use. This year, JVC have lowered the 3D peak brightness again, and so the crosstalk has improved again. The crosstalk cancel feature has a better range apparently which means you can increase the brightness a bit at the expense of more crosstalk. Fundamentally the panels do not seem to have changed, so all JVC can do is fiddle with the parameters to find the best compromise.

By a cheap DLP for 3D and the kids, and a JVC for real movies and grown ups use, only way to get the best of both worlds.

Brightness very good with my RS56 on 100" diagonal 1.4 gain screen (16:9). Turned lamp to high which helped. Moving to 110" diagonal 2.35"1 screen tomorrow (same gain but black diamond edge) so will see how it looks.

I have a 119'' diagonal 2.37:1 screen so I'll be very interested in your opinion on the 3D brightness.

There's a review on the X75 on the UK AV forum.

I only have matte white acoustic screen and the size for my 16:9 is approx 119", my scope is 150"

Does the RS56 support JVC “"Projector Calibration Software"? I thought I heard it would somewhere and found the following link on the JVC Worldwide site but can’t find anything on the USA site.

http://www3.jvckenwood.com/english/download/dla-x95r_x75r_xc7800r_rs66_rs56_calibrationsoft.html

Currently only supports Spyder4Elite or Pro / Spyder3Elite or Pro. I have a Lumagen mini 3D with Chromapure Auto-Calibrate & a Display 3 Pro so not necesarrily required but I am still interested in hearing if anyone has tried it and with what results. I might try it myself if JVC adds Display 3 Pro support.


Not much activity in the RS56 thread. The RS55 was over 1300 posts this time last year.

I've finally hung my RS56 and fired it up. It replaces an RS1, and is a major step up. I'd like to know what settings folks are using for MPC and its fine adjustments.

I've ordered a X75 but it won't be here for another week or so. What size is your screen Steve? Mine is a 120" diagonal and using the MPC didn't show any benefit at seating distance (1.6x sw). If you haven't joined our PNW HT group on FB, you should!

Hi Kris,

I have a 100" diagonal 1.3 gain Stewart screen. I sit about 11 feet away from it. I can see a difference between MPC on and off, but can't yet define it. Oddly enough, I don't think this projector is any brighter than the RS1, but it is better in every other respect.

So far I've been a FB denier, but your HT group may change my mind!

I think what you're seeing has more to do with the other enhancements and not the pixel shifting itself. I have a 120" diagonal screen and I'm sitting about the same distance and my vision is about 20/10 and I can't see any difference at all with just the pixel shifting (all other enhancements set to zero). The other stuff is sharpening and contrast enhancements similar to what Darbee is trying to achieve. Those are pretty easy to spot, but so far I've been more impressed with how the Darbee does it compared to the JVC, though it does a commendable job as well.

If anyone here using their JVC RS56/X75 in a constant height set up I sure would like to know your hardware details.

My intent is to procure a JVC RS56 or X75, 2.35:1 Da-Lite Cinema Contour® Cinemascope Format screen (with one of the audio perf materials) that is 52" x 122" (133" diagonal). At this point not sure what anamorphic lens and sled will be needed.

Will you be writing a review for the X75. If so, will it be in HTM or elsewhere?

I agree that with just pixel shifting there should be no appreciable enhancement, other than smoothing that would not be readily apparent from a typical viewing distance. Add in the enhancements in how the pixels are generated and the difference should be more apparent. I noticed that the THX setting seemed over enhanced, and found that for THX the MPC settings (Enhance, Dynamic Contrast, and Smoothing) are all at 50, and cannot be changed. The Enhance and Dynamic Contrast settings do produce something akin to Darbee enhancements, if a bit more subtly on lower settings. I suspect that if used judiciously they might provide an enhanced picture. But it probably won't make me sell my Darblet.

By the way, I not that you can press the MPC button on the remote while the MPC adjustment menu is on the screen and that this will call up an analysis screen where the effects will be shown in colors: blue and green for Enhanced; red and yellow for Dynamic Contrast; and black for Smoothing. This might make it easier to see what is going on.
Edited by Steve Goff - 12/24/12 at 9:04am

I'm using a 110" diagonal 2.35:1 Black Diamond Zero Edge 1.4 gain screen using CIH. No A-lens just using lens memory to shift between the formats. Works extremely well.

Was disappointed with the screen a bit until I got a chance to enter the screen customization input number from the JVC website and it made a tremendous difference overall.

I've got the JVC RS56 ceiling mounted now and all I'll say at this point is that I'm very impressed.

I'm at 17'9" throw from a 54x96" screen of 1.1-1.2 gain.

I've had to re-teach myself a few things here as digitals really are different due to fixed pixel nature, single lens (with iris), and how the signal is treated in a 100% digital manner.

For example:

- Don't use keystone at all as it destroys resolution. On a CRT projector the pixels are squished so you never lose any, on a digital it has to throw away pixels instead so you don't want to do any digital manipulation to the resolution at all. Instead you get the projector perfectly level with the screen and then use lens shift to shift down to keep all 1920x1080 pixels. The only exception where this may be ok is on a higher resolution 4K projector that is only used for 1080p content (since you have spare pixels you can throw away without decreasing the source resolution).

- Brightness at the default 0 setting is perfect. Any higher and the picture washes out because you're raising the black level. Any lower and you all you do is crush blacks such at above black (higher than 16) becomes black (16). Going lower cannot make the black level darker (the iris does that).

- Contrast at the default 0 setting is also perfect. Any higher and you start to clip whites such that anything lower than 235 (white) becomes the same as white. The light output does not go up as you increase contrast over 0. If you go lower then you do lower the light output. The combination of lamp mode (high or low) and iris should be used to set the amount of light output. Start with low lamp and lower the iris as much as possible while maintaining the amount of light you want on screen (typically 12-14 ft/L).

So how is the actual black level (16)? Better than my Zenith 1200 CRT projector. Yes, that's right. Better. Why? I can get darker with the RS56 without losing low level detail. On the Zenith 1200 (gamma set to around 2.2 or 2.3 if I remember correctly with an RTC2200 box) I have to turn brightness up slightly to avoid losing close to black detail. With a Radiance or something more advanced that provides 20-point gamma adjustment, I may have been able to keep black lower on the CRT without crushing close to black detail. I don't know. So while I say the RS56 has better blacks on my setup, both are fantastic. You don't notice elevated blacks on either. I was worried about black level on the RS56 but my fears are unfounded.

I'm running the lamp on low and the iris is closed down to -10 (goes from -15 [closed] to 0 [open] where 0 is brightest). The more you close the iris the lower the light output but the higher the contrast ratio. The more closed the iris is, the lower your black level is too. You really want to close down the iris as much as you can while trying to keep 12-14 ft/L on screen. At -10 it's already brighter than my Zenith 1200 that was set up to do 12-14 ft/L. At -15 I think the RS56 is still a bit brighter but I like the extra punch that -10 provides and the black level is already very low so for now I'll leave it at that until I do a full calibration.

On low lens power (light output) the fan cannot be heard at all unless you get up within a foot or two from the projector. It's extremely quiet. No hushbox needed at all (even for fussy listeners like me) if you stick with low lamp mode. It's quieter than my Zenith 1200 with the hushbox in place. On high lamp mode the R56 is (IMHO) too loud to be used as is. I would need a hushbox. The projector automatically kicks into high lamp mode when 3D is used. (I did not spend any time trying 3D at all ... yet).

I spent 4 hours looking at test patterns from AVS 709 to get it dialled in right (no black/white crush, it's resolving between 16-235 correctly) and then about another 4 at video content.

Seeing excellent inter-scene contrast ratio (where one bright spot doesn't wash out the rest of the screen if it's dark) is confusing to my mind to accept after so many years with CRT even though I have liquid coupled tubes on the CRT projector that help avoid light scatter.

Dark walls are of course a must. You'll destroy contrast ratio in a white room. I doubt there would be much use in buying a higher end digital (or CRT for that matter) in a room with light walls. I still need to make the immediate area around the screen completely black on the side walls and ceiling but for now it's dark. This will help too.

Here's the room (CRT projector shown temporarily in place):



Convergence is good with only subtle fringing that can only be seen with your nose up to the screen. Not perfect but not noticeable from the seating distance. Using full-pixel shifting just makes it worse. You can do 1/16 pixel shift across the whole screen but it's done electronically so it may hurt the resolution. I choose to not use it for now but may look into it later. Also available is zone convergence (similar to NEC's CRT projector point convergence) but I haven't tried it much yet as pixel shifting is really not required on my unit.

I have not done greyscale/colour/gamma calibration on the RS56 yet but it's pretty reasonable out of the box when set to 6500K and all silly enhancement features [other than e-shift] are turned off. Gamma is set to "Normal" which is the same as their 2.2 setting. That's about where I like gamma so I left it light that. I'll see how close it actually is to 2.2 once I measure with a meter as I go through the entire calibration.

If you want to mimic something like 48 fps from the Hobbit, you can turn on Clear Motion Drive (CMD). It makes 24 fps film content shockingly smooth, very unnatural looking to someone like me who's used to film content. The smooth motion tends to trick our brains into thinking that the action is moving faster. Almost like an old 1920's movie. I can see using it on sports but that's about it.

The THX mode is a joke. It disables a bunch of features and forces certain things on and introduces edge enhancement and other nasties. Instead I run custom with everything off except for e-shift2. E-shift2 does wonders for a CRT owner like me. Pixel structure is no longer seen. There are multiple versions of e-shift2 available, I picked film and then turned down all the settings to 0 as otherwise it does sharpening and other nasty things which introduce edge enhancement.

My unit had a rattle in it when I got it. Something was lose inside so I opened it up and removed a tiny plastic hinge that had snapped off. Having it missing does not cause any issues but I wanted to make sure it wasn't going to get into any of the motors/gears. Pictures below.

The box:



Unpacked (not your typical small digital):



Taking off the sides and top:







Top cover off:









The new DC bulb:







The tab that broke off:



Where the tab came from (top front center):




Kal
Edited by kal - 5/15/13 at 10:24am

I pulled the plug and will be getting my unit sometime next week.

Will post my impressions.

My HT room has dark red walls so hopefully it is OK since I am not repainting them.

Is this confirmation it is a DC Lamp? It sure doesn't act like any AC lamp I've had. If so....they Rock. (so far) Only 10 lux down center reading with 4810 at 160 hours from hour 1 reading, including a calibration.

Bump. Anyone that has taken a close look at this new lamp, as per the photos above, has it been confirmed whether or not it is DC or AC?

There really is no easy way to tell. On some lamps of olden year the pin types round, square were different between ac and dc bulbs.

Isn't the state of our industry absurd when the importer can't or won't tell its customers what the bulb technology is.

I can't confirm myself if the bulb is DC but I thought this was a known fact from previously released information (?). Sorry if this wasn't the case.

In case it's hard to read, here is the text that's found on opposite sides of the white bulb base:

One side:

NSHA230JK
QLL0195-001
PCO23413099

Other side:

USHIO
CHINA
CP12860

(Where letter I's may be number 1's and zeros be letter O's - or vice versa - hard to tell)

Googling these does not turn up much.

Kal
Edited by kal - 1/3/13 at 9:00am

In case it helps, here are some more pictures of the bulb (slightly larger) as well as the socket:















Kal

The JVC P/N is listed as PK-L2312U. Very little info on this number. One place does list it for sale at $520.00 which is $21.00 more than the JVC SRP

EDIT: Got more hits and better prices with PK-L2312U instead of PKL2312 (from the manual)

"PK-L2312U" definitely results in more hits as it's JVC's official lamp model number. Ushio (NSH) appears to be the manufacturer.

Found some older posts here too that give more clues:

Link: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1419452/projectors-at-cedia-expo-2012/270#post_22397114

Link: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1419452/projectors-at-cedia-expo-2012/270#post_22397237

Kal

Kal,

Thanks for the details on your new projector. I have mine sitting on the floor and hoping to get it up this weekend. I also talked to Spectracal and they should have the new JVC projectors autocal feature done in Calman 5 soon...which I am looking forward to trying.

With the DLA RS55 the recommendation was to start ChromaPure AutoCal with the Radiance Mini 3D with the JVC in Cinema Mode, Wide 1 Color Space, and 2.4 gamma.

Any consensus yet on which JVC setting to use for the RS56, using ChromaPure AutoCal with the Radiance Mini 3D? I have added a Darbee between the Radiance and the RS56 if that makes any difference.

I'd take the Darbee out for the calibration. Start with User 1, Color Temp 6500 and Gamma at 2.3. Use the standard color profile. If it is anything like the one I have in my room right now, it will be a VERY short calibration.

Thanks Kris.