2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 5

I am very interested in purchasing a Mitsubishi 73642 (this week I learned that only this model and the 73C12 are available locally--I prefer not to mailorder to avoid potential return problems). I am leaning towards the 73642 instead of a Panasonic 65" plasma.

There are two performance areas that searches do not shed much light on for the current Mitsubishi "42 series" lineup:

First, how dark are the black letterbox bars and, for 4:3 programming, the sidebars? Totally black, very black, or grayish?

Second, on a white picture (like a hockey rink), how evenly illuminated is the entire screen? Any issues such as hotspotting, bands, or other areas of visible darkening?

Thank you!

Cant find my manual ....whats the process for getting your pc to display on the 842?

VNC stands for Vitural Network Computer - this type of connection is really limited as it originally was for remote diagnosis uses.

VNC PC is not necessarily the best. It does not do moving video as it is a series of "snapshots" sent to the TV. Something like 20 snap shots a minute and no audio.

Also the resolution is limited by the main monitor connected to the PC, not the TV that is receiving the signal via VNC, so if that is a 4:3 monitor and less than 1920 x 1080, your image via VNC PC will be this lower resolution as well.

So you are looking at Home Theater PC type of operations or to view moving video, you should use direct connection.

In direct connection you need one of the follow three types outputs on your PC.

1. HDMI - this is best.
2. DVI with a DVI-to-HDMI adapter (or cable) AND an analog stereo mini-plug audio cable.
3. DisplayPort with a DisplayPort-to-HDMI adapter.

If all you have on your PC is a 15-pin VGA connector, this is analog and then you have to get a signal adapter that converts analog RGB to digital HDMI signals.

New WD-82842... awesome picture even though, it hasn't been calibrated.


Edited by OneEyedPony - 9/23/12 at 2:56am

yes indeed... I have notice some geometry issues I'll take care of later... but bit on bit will be a higher priority. I didn't have a 3D capable SAT receiver, so I put the set in 2D+ with a -2 setting. WOW, NASCAR looks real good, I mean REALLY GOOD.

I'm using the PANASONIC VIERA full HD RF glasses... TY-ER3D4MU they work perfectly right out of the box and very comfortable.

Here's a shot of the internal test pic @ night with LED back lighting.

Too high for me, it's a 21" stand. One thing about FPs, they have as a feature, where you can adjust angle deflection, so no matter the height(viewing angle) of the screen or where your eye level is in comparison to the screen, you can adjust the picture angle for that "sweet spot". That's one feature I wish could be incorporated/engineered into DLP/RP sets.
Edited by OneEyedPony - 9/23/12 at 2:52am

HELP!

After the guys from Video Technics came out and told me the two 73842 I have tried have a FACTORY DEFECT (light bleed/blooming at top of screen) that cannot be fixed, I'm trying to get Paul's TV to send me a 3rd unit because I like the TV otherwise.

Can someone please try a high-contrast letterbox BluRay disc on their 73842? If you have this defect it will be very obvious in a dark room: go to a night scene and scan until something bright nears or cuts into the letterbox area. If a giant white halo blows into the letterbox area you have this defect. It may not bother you, but it bugs the heck out of us. Based on some of the posts here, it sounds like Paul's may have bought a bad batch. I need the serial # from a 73842 that does NOT have this problem so Paul's can check inventory and see if they have a unit in stock with a serial # close to yours. Has to be a 73842 for this test. My serial # is 100965, barcode 082400-032928.

Thanks everyone for their replies to my earlier posts!

These mits dlp's have always had the light bleeding into the letterboxing. i dont think it's a defect in your specific set.

I don't have a 2012 but if you're referring to the light that bleeds through the top black area on letterbox sources, that's not considered a defect and has been noted that I know of since 2009. Personally I never noticed it on mine until I read it about on this forum and it doesn't bother me because it's very faint, it's an area that I'm not fixed on and isn't there all the time. I also tend not to watch TV in a completely dark room.

Hi jaamz777 & colour, thanks for responding to my plea!

If you read my previous posts, the guys from VideoTechnics are the folks that Mitsubishi sent to my house after I called Mits directly. These guys have been repairing for years on contract with Mitsubishi and they said it's a factory defect. They saw the problem as soon as I turned the movie on, in a brightly lit living room at lunchtime. The senior tech said "Wow. That's really bad. Mitsubishi is going to get a lot of complaints about this." My son has a WD73735 and used to sell them for Circuit City, and he said it was crazy bad which is why I exchanged the first one. He feels bad because he's been trying to get me a Mits for three years, ever since my RP Grand Wega started to get the Blue Sparkles of Death.

Whatever is going on with these 2 sets is way above the norm for RPTVs, Mitsubishi's or not.

I have my 92C12 for about 3 weeks and I love.I need 7 pairs of 3D glasses so I haven't done that yet ,nor have I upgraded the software.The manuals with the TV don't really cover this model.Now I need to upgrade the Home theater speakers.Does anyone have any experience with putting their subwoofer behind a DLP tv. I a little worried about the low frequency effecting the bulb!!! Any thoughts?

I would check check on your 3D capibility before I started buying glasses. I had a wd-82C12 that was not 3D. Found out when I started looking for the emitter connection. I upgraded to a wd-82842. problem solved.

It's actually a 92A12 and it is 3D ready,it has the emitter output jack in the back.

Hey Securitydog,

Can you please check your unit to see if it has the light bleed issue?
Where did you get your unit?

Thanks!

I don't notice the bleed through but maybe I'm not checking with a dark enough room.I bought it from Aarons here in Florida. Any thoughs about the sub woofer behind the unit?

rt281 - Where about in FL are you located? I live in Central Florida and I can't find anywhere that carries the 82" or 92" (either 740/840 or 742/842). I really would like to view the set in person to determine if I can go with the CC screen or need to get the matte. I have tried every store that Mits suggested (from the automated phone service and website) from essentially Orlando to Tampa. However, I have not checked at any of the Aaron's or Badcock's (I just figured that they wouldn't have it over a dedicated electronics store). Can anyone verify that they have been able to see the TV in person anywhere in Florida?

I am a bit conflicted from reading all the posts on the screen(s). I really want the 92" but not sure if the glare would be uncontrollable. I have a large living room that has one small kitchen window that would face the TV directly, but on the side I have an entire wall of windows (FL/sun room). However, the sun room is entirely covered with a Gila residential film (mirror not blackout) that is supposed to cut >80% of the glare. Anyone have any experience with tinted vs untinted windows and TV screen glare? I never did notice the glare from the FL room on my old set, but could notice the kitchen window during the day (which isn't currently tinted). Anyone have any suggestions on how to 'test' the glare? Laptop screen possibly?

I don't notice anything unusual about the picture quality. I purchased in DFW, Tx area at Conn"s. Their people brought it out, unboxed it about 2 ft from where it sits right now. The box, TV, all the paperwork, and the remote were in perfect condition. They set it it up in about 10 minutes, and it hasn't needed any service since.
My thoughts on the sub are, I would set it up like I intend to use it, turn the system on, put my hands on the stand and the top of the TV, to feel how much vibration there is. If there is only slight, I would use it, alot I would move it. I'm not a repairman, but I wouldn't think prolonged vibrations would be good.

The biggest issue with glare comes from light on axis. If the light is off to the left or right it has much less impact. Remember the angle of incidence equals the angle of reflection.

I live in Palm Bay.Aarons only carries the 92A12 version.I believe Badcock may carry the othersThe glare is most noticable with the tv off!!.I believe they went with the CC screen to provide more brightness from the same lamp as the 82".I get glare if there are lamps on in the room sometimes but I'm real happy with the tv.I wasn't really interested in the higher end models because the biggest difference was the additional speakers and suttound mode.My home theater setup takes care of that quite nicely. I can place the subwoofer almost anywhere but the best bass responce would be in a corner.To put it in the next adjoining corner would be a 20 ft. run of cable across a doorway.I emailed Mitsubishi about this but I haven't received a reply yet.(only emailed yesterday)

Thanks gentlemen - you verified what I was thinking and have re-assured me that the 92" would work in terms of glare.....now just to find it!

rt281 - I haven't seen the 92" at Aarons but I do know that they only carry the 92A12. From looking at the specs, it looks like the exact same model at the 92742?? Maybe re-branded for specific re-sellers? I did verify that Badcock only carries the 82" at the current time.

I have been looking at the WD-92XXX sets, and am enjoying the content in these threads. In looking at Mitsu's website, they show four sets in this category, the A12, 840, 842, and 742, with no apparent difference in the screen or video performance.

My question to the forum is, is there any actual difference in the video performance of these sets? I will be using it only as a display device hung off a switched HDMI port on my Denon 4311ci. I really dont want to pay for extra bells and whistles like internal sound, number of inputs, smart internet access, etc.

Thoughts?

I doubt if you'll see any difference in actual picture quality between any of those 92" units. The 840 and 842 have a feature called "perfect color" which allows finer color adjustment besides color and tint, but real world , if you leave them alone at default settings, the color clarity is fine (unless you're a real videophile and must have exact calibration...nothing wrong with that). They differ in other features, bells and whistles. The A12, 840, and 742 have built-in IR emitters for active IR 3d glasses, while the 842 has built-in RF Bluetooth emitter for "full HD RF 3D glasses". And, of course, the 840/842 has the advanced audio system features. They all have the Clear Contrast screen. A few other feature differences that have nothing to do with PQ. Something for everyone, at different price points.

Out of curiosity, what is the exact difference between the PerfectTint/PerfectColor adjustments when compared to the lower end models that don't have it? Are they adjustments that absolutely cannot be done without having that feature or is there another 'backdoor' way to achieve the same adjustments?

Besides being able to adjust the "standard" Color (overall saturation of color...from black and white to overwhelming, bleeding color) and Tint controls (mostly for adjusting facial tones), Perfect Color also allows you to adjust the saturation (intensity) of each color of the six color processor...Red, Green, Blue, Cyan, Yellow, and Magenta. Perfect Tint allows you to adjust six different hues. Out of the box, the factory defaults are all at 50%, which, for most people, are already "perfect". Just adjusting Color and Tint for minor tweaks will still provide a great, realistic picture, without going to the "Perfects". The more important adjustments are Contrast and Brightness, to get the proper balance between the blackest blacks, and the whitest whites, without blooming, crushed blacks, or a washed out, greyish display. Out of the box, for instance, the contrast is all the way up, giving that brilliant "showroom" display. It should be adjusted down for a more natural appearence (and save the life of the bulb), and I usually also adjust the brightness to approximately half the setting of contrast...personal preference may differ. Room lighting will also play a part in these adjustments. You can also adjust the Contrast and Brightness individually for each mode (Natural, Bright, Brilliant, and Game). I use higher settings for Brilliant, which I use for 3D, due to the glasses making the picture darker. I believe all the 92" models also have "Advanced Picture Adjustments", which might be your "backdoor" scenario for the lower end models. Mitsubishi recommends only a professionallly trained calibration tech work on these, as the novice can really screw things up. However, if you try adjusting Perfecr Color, Perfect Tint and the Advanced settings, and mess it up, you can always reset them back to factory defaults. No harm, no foul. Good luck with your choice.

Perfect Color and Perfect Tint are a bit misnamed. They are used for correctly setting individual colors with a meter while using one of the Presets; Brilliant, Bright or Natural.

Perfect Color allows you to set the Luminance of a particular color. Color is measured as x, y, Y in most color measuring systems used on Home Theater displays. Y (captial Y) is a measure of a colors brightness or luminance. Perfect Tint is for setting Hue. Both can affect Color Saturation. If you are doing a calibration there are color points or target boxes that indicated when a color is at its ideal combination of x,y, Y. Perfect Color and Tint can help you get the colors quite accurate and get them to the target or very close. The main limitation of these tools is that Blue and Red, especially Blue are undersaturate in the Natural Preset. The controls don't really allow you to increase saturation. So you can adjust the hue and the luminance on Red and Blue you can't increase the saturation much if any at all. Green is oversaturated in Natural and can be brought in line and the Secondary colors can get very close. Red is not much of a problem, Blue is the problem child in natural.

Now in the Bright and Brilliant modes the Gamut is wider so you are able to get Blue pretty much correct... you just have lousy gamma curves and very low gamma in those presets. Normally you want a nice flat gamma curve, with perhaps a little rise at the dark end for better shadow detail. 2.22 is the standard gamma. Even Natural is lower than that. It averages about 2.15, the other presets do all kind of funky things with gamma and gamma is very low, epecially on the high end of the greyscale effective blowing the whites out.