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2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 7

post #181 of 1188
We just got a WD-73742 on Thursday. We were upgrading from a 60" Sony Bravia DLP. One thing that I've noticed, and I'm hoping I can get some help with, is that the picture on DirecTV seems just a little off. It's not quite blurry and not quite grainy, but it's just not what it should be, especially compared to the Bravia we have. Every other source (PS3, 3D Blu-Ray Player) looks perfect. No complaints. But the DirecTV is leaving a lot to be desired. Anyone have any issues like this, and if so, how can it be fixed? Thanks!
post #182 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisv784 View Post

We just got a WD-73742 on Thursday. We were upgrading from a 60" Sony Bravia DLP. One thing that I've noticed, and I'm hoping I can get some help with, is that the picture on DirecTV seems just a little off. It's not quite blurry and not quite grainy, but it's just not what it should be, especially compared to the Bravia we have. Every other source (PS3, 3D Blu-Ray Player) looks perfect. No complaints. But the DirecTV is leaving a lot to be desired. Anyone have any issues like this, and if so, how can it be fixed? Thanks!

its the source .nothing u can do
post #183 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by domingos38 View Post

its the source .nothing u can do

i figured as much. i kind of fixed though. instead of running the HDMI to the receiver, i'm just running the hdmi directly to the TV and using an optical cable. it's not perfect, but its definitely a lot better.
post #184 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisv784 View Post

i figured as much. i kind of fixed though. instead of running the HDMI to the receiver, i'm just running the hdmi directly to the TV and using an optical cable. it's not perfect, but its definitely a lot better.

Whereas connecting your HDMI sources to the A/V receiver, and letting it do the switching to one HDMI cable to the TV is convenient and avoids cable clutter, it's usually better to have a direct, uninterrupted HDMI run from the source to the TV, and optical/coaxial digital audio cable to the A/V receiver. Doing this will avoid any inconsistencies/incompatibilities that the A/V receiver might introduce to degrade the video and/or audio signals.
post #185 of 1188
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the 73" 842 series, but since this is my first DLP purchase, I have a concern of the vertical viewing angle. I have a stand which I would like to keep because it cost a bit of money. Its 80" long, has a width/depth of 22 inches or so and has a height of 25" The TV will fit no problem, but I'm concerned about the height. My furniture is approximately 19" or so high. The main seating area would be approximately 11-12 feet from the screen.

Do I need to worry about PQ, brightness, or anything else due to the stand being 25" high?
post #186 of 1188
I'm having an issue with my newly received WD73642 hooked up Yamaha RXV371 receiver.

I used to use my receiver with my old KDL55NX720 and also a KDL46EX400, in interim while waiting for the DLP to get here after selling the 55NX720. I would use the feature of HDMI control to have the AVR change inputs and turn on/off automatically as TV input changed and TV turned on/off. It worked fine on the previous TVs but on the WD73642, I seem to have an issue...

When I first configured the WD73642 and turned on HDMI CEC with the AVR, it worked great... However, it seems when I turn off the TV and turn it back on, the AVR turns off and on like it should, but there is no audio once everything is back on. The symbols that light up to show you the speaker configuration of incoming audio are all turned off too. TV will still control the AVR and change volume up and down... But... No sound.

If I attempt to change inputs, the input on the AVR changes along with the TV input, but a few seconds later, the AVR will AUTOMATICALLY change back to the regular TV audio input ... even if I just switched it to an HDMI input through the TV remote, it'll switch back to the TV audio input (OTA cable/antenna audio). Still, either way, no audio can be heard. I pretty much have to disable CEC on the Mitsubishi and turn off HDMI control on my AVR for audio to work again.

It's a bit sad, 'cuz if I reconfigure it again right away after disabling everything, it works fine... flawlessly... even the volume up/down from the TV controlling the AVR... it always breaks once I turn the TV off for awhile and turn it back on, though. So I guess I'll have to just use two remotes instead of one until Mitsubishi fixes the issue. They probably won't, though, so I won't hold my breath. Just a minor inconvenience. frown.gif
post #187 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

I'm having an issue with my newly received WD73642 hooked up Yamaha RXV371 receiver.
I used to use my receiver with my old KDL55NX720 and also a KDL46EX400, in interim while waiting for the DLP to get here after selling the 55NX720. I would use the feature of HDMI control to have the AVR change inputs and turn on/off automatically as TV input changed and TV turned on/off. It worked fine on the previous TVs but on the WD73642, I seem to have an issue...
When I first configured the WD73642 and turned on HDMI CEC with the AVR, it worked great... However, it seems when I turn off the TV and turn it back on, the AVR turns off and on like it should, but there is no audio once everything is back on. The symbols that light up to show you the speaker configuration of incoming audio are all turned off too. TV will still control the AVR and change volume up and down... But... No sound.
If I attempt to change inputs, the input on the AVR changes along with the TV input, but a few seconds later, the AVR will AUTOMATICALLY change back to the regular TV audio input ... even if I just switched it to an HDMI input through the TV remote, it'll switch back to the TV audio input (OTA cable/antenna audio). Still, either way, no audio can be heard. I pretty much have to disable CEC on the Mitsubishi and turn off HDMI control on my AVR for audio to work again.
It's a bit sad, 'cuz if I reconfigure it again right away after disabling everything, it works fine... flawlessly... even the volume up/down from the TV controlling the AVR... it always breaks once I turn the TV off for awhile and turn it back on, though. So I guess I'll have to just use two remotes instead of one until Mitsubishi fixes the issue. They probably won't, though, so I won't hold my breath. Just a minor inconvenience. frown.gif

Your best bet is to turn off CEC and get yourself a decent universal remote. I hated CEC.
post #188 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Your best bet is to turn off CEC and get yourself a decent universal remote. I hated CEC.

For some reason, I didn't even THINK about that option. Thanks, will do that!!!
post #189 of 1188
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonT35 View Post

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the 73" 842 series, but since this is my first DLP purchase, I have a concern of the vertical viewing angle. I have a stand which I would like to keep because it cost a bit of money. Its 80" long, has a width/depth of 22 inches or so and has a height of 25" The TV will fit no problem, but I'm concerned about the height. My furniture is approximately 19" or so high. The main seating area would be approximately 11-12 feet from the screen.
Do I need to worry about PQ, brightness, or anything else due to the stand being 25" high?

25" high stand sounds high to me. To be certain, measure your eye height when seated in your regular viewing seat and ensure the TV's center will be eye height for optimal viewing. I have the 92842 on a 13" stand and I'm dead center when seated.
post #190 of 1188
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

I'm having an issue with my newly received WD73642 hooked up Yamaha RXV371 receiver.
I used to use my receiver with my old KDL55NX720 and also a KDL46EX400, in interim while waiting for the DLP to get here after selling the 55NX720. I would use the feature of HDMI control to have the AVR change inputs and turn on/off automatically as TV input changed and TV turned on/off. It worked fine on the previous TVs but on the WD73642, I seem to have an issue...
When I first configured the WD73642 and turned on HDMI CEC with the AVR, it worked great... However, it seems when I turn off the TV and turn it back on, the AVR turns off and on like it should, but there is no audio once everything is back on. The symbols that light up to show you the speaker configuration of incoming audio are all turned off too. TV will still control the AVR and change volume up and down... But... No sound.
If I attempt to change inputs, the input on the AVR changes along with the TV input, but a few seconds later, the AVR will AUTOMATICALLY change back to the regular TV audio input ... even if I just switched it to an HDMI input through the TV remote, it'll switch back to the TV audio input (OTA cable/antenna audio). Still, either way, no audio can be heard. I pretty much have to disable CEC on the Mitsubishi and turn off HDMI control on my AVR for audio to work again.
It's a bit sad, 'cuz if I reconfigure it again right away after disabling everything, it works fine... flawlessly... even the volume up/down from the TV controlling the AVR... it always breaks once I turn the TV off for awhile and turn it back on, though. So I guess I'll have to just use two remotes instead of one until Mitsubishi fixes the issue. They probably won't, though, so I won't hold my breath. Just a minor inconvenience. frown.gif

HDMI CEC is great when/if it works, however it can be a pain to deal with when it isn't. I would just turn it off and use a universal remote as suggested earlier.
post #191 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodaboy581 View Post

For some reason, I didn't even THINK about that option. Thanks, will do that!!!

The Harmony 700 is a very decent low priced remote.
post #192 of 1188
Thank you both for your input, I definitely appreciate it. smile.gif
post #193 of 1188
Does anyone have any good Calibration settings for the wd-73642 0r 742?


i just got the wd-73642
post #194 of 1188
my 73c12 comes in tuesday, yay! Coming from a JVC 61" ILA... I don't expect a huge difference other than a slightly sharper image and the bigger size. My pops has a mits from last year or the year before so I know what to expect. I almost jumped on the $999 dell deal last week but they tax in MD so I decided to hold off. Pauls tv put in on sale a few days ago for 949.99 with $100 restaurant GC, and with no tax, easy decision. Sales guy on the phone was dumbfounded when I wouldn't upgrade to the 642... dude I don't give a **** about 3D! He replies, "I never had anyone not accept the upgrade, the picture is much sharper on the upgraded one". I replied, "well I'm just stupid and will be your first" wink.gif
post #195 of 1188
My 82842 is about 2 month old and has started cutting off randomly by itself.about 3 times now,I read something about this pages back but cant find it now,Is there some software upgrade that fixes this issue
post #196 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by suncom3 View Post

My 82842 is about 2 month old and has started cutting off randomly by itself.about 3 times now,I read something about this pages back but cant find it now,Is there some software upgrade that fixes this issue

Many people disagree with me as to the cause but I have seen this same behavior with my 92840 and I believe there is a very good chance it is what others have run into.....

The shutdown for me only occurs when the factory remote is in a line of sight position to the display. The only time I have run across this was during times where the OEM remote was left out because I had been calibrating. Normally I keep it stowed in black cloth basket. For regular device conrol I usually just use my Tivo remote.

My set has never has done the shutdown in the 10 months I have owned it with the factory remote stored away. Also it never happens if I have my 82837 remote in line of sight.So it seems to be peculiar to the later remtoes. Whenever I am going to be extensively using the meus on the Mits like during calibration I use the 82837 remote which is a totally different design. I

just converted from an Iscan Duo Video Processor to a Lumagen XS with 125 point calibration. I used the 828837 remote a great deal in the last few weeks and no shut downs. I would have probably had half a dozenshutdosnw during that time using the remote the factory shipped with my 92840.

The funny part is the original factory specifc remote for the 92840 does not have be actively used to cause the shutdown just lleft sitting on the coffee or end table and in a day or so I will start to see shutdowns
post #197 of 1188
hmmm ill at least test the theory
post #198 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by suncom3 View Post

My 82842 is about 2 month old and has started cutting off randomly by itself.about 3 times now,I read something about this pages back but cant find it now,Is there some software upgrade that fixes this issue

I have had this problem several times with a new 82742. The only occurs when switching from HD to SD on DirecTV. I have replaced the HDMI cable multiple times so that should not be the problem. The OEM remote was not in the same room so that is not the problem I am experiencing.
post #199 of 1188
My 82742 is arriving tomorrow morning. Anyone have the calibrated settings to use so i'm up and ready to go when i get it?
post #200 of 1188
For our WD-82742 (purchased this month) here are the initial basic settings that provided an ideal picture in our fully darkened theater room (of course there will be sample-to-sample differences):

Picture Mode (lamp setting) Natural, Color Temperature Low, Video Noise Off, Contrast 46, Brightness 33, Color 18, Tint 30, Sharpness 30. (Note: The sharpness was noncritical between about 20 to 30.)
post #201 of 1188
I just purchased the WD73C12. I noticed several issues with the set I got. There was a slightly darker bar across the top of the screen, visible even when off (possible the reflection of the mirror?). I also noticed a very visible halo effect toward the top of the screen, especially on high contrast areas light a flickering torch against a dark background. What's especially odd was that the halo effect suddenly stops when it touches the black bar at the top of the screen. Also, when viewing blu-rays that have letterbox the image seems to be faintly visible in the top black bar, almost like its bleed through. I had it replaced with another unit and I have the exact same issues althought the halo effect is not as pronouced. Has anyone else experienced these issues? I don't know if I should have a technician look at it or just return it and wash my hands of Mitsubishi altogether?!?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
post #202 of 1188
Crap, two days in and I'm just now noticing I'm at least MILDLY susceptible to the rainbow effect. How is this not an issue of the past?
82742, tried tons of settings, and adjustments...what are the odds a professional calibration might help?
post #203 of 1188
I used to have the 65" 737 and had 6 pairs of glasses. When I got this new 73642 no one told me my old glasses wouldn't work, and I spent 2 days of headaches trying to "fix" the 3D. I finally tried the glasses that came with the TV, and although they worked, everything looked strange. I tried "Reverse" instead of "Standard", and now it works beautifully. Is this something everyone knows about but me? That Active Shutter glasses don't work on the new Mitsus? This is not Bluetooth; it still uses an IR emitter, just the adaptor is built in.

The brand of glasses that work are Xpands for Mitsubishi. That's the only info on them. I guess I'll have to invest in another 5 pairs of glasses
post #204 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmwarren13 View Post

Crap, two days in and I'm just now noticing I'm at least MILDLY susceptible to the rainbow effect. How is this not an issue of the past?
82742, tried tons of settings, and adjustments...what are the odds a professional calibration might help?
I've noticed slight rainbows myself with this and other DLP units when I first got them. You notice them now because you're thinking about it, but with time you won't see them...just the beautiful picture.
post #205 of 1188
I agree. I was replacing my old Mits 65" RPTV, and I had never had a DLP set before. I had read through these forums before buying the WD73742, and found out about the rainbow effect that way. I was really disappointed to immediately see the rainbows. That was 3 months ago, and now I rarely notice the effect at all.
post #206 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmwarren13 View Post

Crap, two days in and I'm just now noticing I'm at least MILDLY susceptible to the rainbow effect. How is this not an issue of the past?
82742, tried tons of settings, and adjustments...what are the odds a professional calibration might help?

People who are mildly susceptible to rainbow effects often stop seeing it after a a few days. I don't really see how calibration would help, perhaps reduced light/contrast might help but that is not really a desirable choice.
post #207 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex F. View Post

For our WD-82742 (purchased this month) here are the initial basic settings that provided an ideal picture in our fully darkened theater room (of course there will be sample-to-sample differences):
Picture Mode (lamp setting) Natural, Color Temperature Low, Video Noise Off, Contrast 46, Brightness 33, Color 18, Tint 30, Sharpness 30. (Note: The sharpness was noncritical between about 20 to 30.)

I don't know about the color number, the other numbers seem reasonable. Color seem way low, are you a big fan of black and white eek.gif
post #208 of 1188
I have an 82837 and a 92840. Until recently I never saw a need to mess with the master color control as I had Perfect Color and Perfect Tint.

I am using the Master/Global Color setting on the 92840. I am using a Radiance XS Video Processor with ChromaPure 125 Color Auto-calibration and boosting the color luminance a bit over the stock setting gives better auto-calibration results because it is easier for the Lumagen Radiance to lower luminance than raise it.

Weew you using some kind of filter to determine that color setting. Filters are not too reliable.
post #209 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

...I just converted from an Iscan Duo Video Processor to a Lumagen XS with 125 point calibration.
I'm curious in your results of the Lumagen XS compared to the DVDO iScan Duo? How'd your Cals go ON THE DLP?

I'm looking at getting a video processor, just haven't decide on the cost effectiveness vs features of the different offerings for 2012 DLP 82"s home use. Maybe a DVDO Edge (Green) which is priced close to a Darbee Derplet for my 82842

For calibrating, I do have a new i1 Display Pro, which I haven't messed with it yet.

Appreciate your recommendations, thanks
Edited by OneEyedPony - 10/27/12 at 8:56pm
post #210 of 1188
Hi all. I just purchased the 73742 and I am very pleased with the quality of the image. This set replaced an older Mits 65" CRT (which was ISF calibrated). I was initially worried that I would not like the look of the DLP, but I have been pleasantly surprised overall and do not regret the upgrade at all.

My only problem so far with the set has to do with the 3D image quality. I am using XPAND 103 glasses, and I have viewed a couple 3D blu-ray movies so far (Prometheus and The Nightmare Before Christmas). I have found that the image while viewing in 3D is just too dark. I am also not that impressed with the overall 3D effect. Basically, it looks 3D, but it just doesn't convey a lot of depth. It is much more subtle than I thought it would be.

Now, I'm totally new to 3D. I generally have avoided it in the theater. So I'm not sure if my expectations were just too high. But so far, based on my experience, I am just not impressed. I am questioning if something is wrong with my setup or my settings.

I am using the Natural picture mode. I have calibrated my contrast, brightness, color, tint, etc. using basic test patterns. Everything looks great in 2D.

Does anyone have any tips they could give me on potentially improving my 3D viewing experience? Are my glasses causing the problem? They were not cheap, so I am hoping that I don't have to experiment with different glasses. Is it normal to have different settings for 3D viewing (increased brightness or different picture modes)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Edited by ccoates - 10/28/12 at 8:11am
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