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2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 24

post #691 of 1188
The bulb has the same warranty as the TV. 1-year from date of purchase.
post #692 of 1188
Ok my first impressions on the 73742 is that this thing is a quite a bit bigger than the 56" JVC it replaced and lighter. I sold my Blu Ray player and will be getting a 3d player soon, so I can't comment on 3d yet. I popped a HD DVD in to check the HD picture and it's great with settings pretty much at default. The only issues I have with it so far are that I do see quite a few rainbows so I'm hoping they'll get less noticeable. Also because the place we're renting right now only has SD Directv, and this set doesn't have Svideo, the quality is horrid but I guess that's to be expected. I'm going to spend some time on the WiiU and see how it handles games.
post #693 of 1188
Two important comments I have on the video games on these tvs:

1. The least input lag of all tv's I tested. I originally bought a 60 led tv that had reviews that in game mode there would be no lag. But I am usually very keen to these things and definitly noticed a lag even still in game mode on the supposedly good led screen... most of my friends couldn't notice it, but i eventually got them to see it - and how it is a disadvantage. (mario just is more sluggish feeling, reaction time is poor in fast pace games, timing games are tough, etc) On the Mitsubishi 73c12 - NO input LAG whatsoever. I love it for that reason. with the wiiu which also has audio on the tablet it was out of sync on the led's, but perfectly in sync on the mitsubishi!

2. Use brilliant mode for games! When you first connect a device, it asks you what type of device it is. If you say it is a game console, the 73c12 will not let you put the tv in brilliant mode - where the colors pop best in video games. Make sure you use the hdmi preset names for the input and don't use the game console preset names for the inputs - it was the only way i could get brilliant mode for video games.


Also, i am still trying to figure out the best brightness/contrast settings for games.. many games have addl adjustments for these as well in addition to the the tv settings. If anyone has any suggestions for what they like for bright/contrast for games.. please let me know, I am curious what you found most comfortable for the eyes, that gives good shadow detail, and yet doesn't look foggy. (the tv is really good by default... i jsut want ot find the absolute best options.
post #694 of 1188
I got a 73742 delivered this past week, and so far I'm pretty happy. Picture is great, and the 3D is much better on this one than my 73C9.

My wife was watching People's Court last night when I got home from work, and I noticed, especially when they paused on a scene like when they come back from a commercial break, that the jaggies are horrible. I double checked the picture plus setting and film mode was set to auto, which I thought would be the correct setting, but turning it off made no difference as well. Any ideas? Am I missing a setting somewhere? BTW, it was DirecTV output at 1080i.
post #695 of 1188
How is your DirecTV receiver set? If you have Native On and a few resolutions checked, you can sometimes see issues when they switch from the HD on the show to something less on the ad.

I've got a couple questions I'd like some help on.

1. I love the 3D effect, and the 2D to 3D conversion is amazingly good, BUT the damned glasses are just so dark that I really have to darken to room more than I like to really enjoy using 3D. I use PS3 3D IR glasses, are there others that will work that don't darken so much?

2. I noticed that the default settings on the video is to two-block the contrast. That seems like an odd setting, but playing around with it doesn't seem to make any big difference. One thing I have noticed is that for say a black or dark suit coat, you can't see the lapels at all for instance. What setting would help with that black blob type of thing?

3. And is there a downside to using 'Bright' video settings, but setting the temp to 'warm'? ie; does that shorten bulb or other component life?
post #696 of 1188
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ As far as number 1. I've been thinking of getting these glasses to try out. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053T5QPW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2HLTZQ4H2YWVW

I feel the same way you do about the darkness. Those are the only non tinted glasses I've seen that have gotten excellent reviews. I have a pair of the tinted version and liked them alot on my older WD-73640. I haven't tried them on my new WD-82642 yet though.

And for number 2., what do you mean by a two-block the contrast video setting?
post #697 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by rhulett View Post

I got a 73742 delivered this past week, and so far I'm pretty happy. Picture is great, and the 3D is much better on this one than my 73C9.

My wife was watching People's Court last night when I got home from work, and I noticed, especially when they paused on a scene like when they come back from a commercial break, that the jaggies are horrible. I double checked the picture plus setting and film mode was set to auto, which I thought would be the correct setting, but turning it off made no difference as well. Any ideas? Am I missing a setting somewhere? BTW, it was DirecTV output at 1080i.

That might be from the channel and what they are broadcasting. I've seen that from many channels over the years with certain broadcasts.
post #698 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ As far as number 1. I've been thinking of getting these glasses to try out. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053T5QPW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2HLTZQ4H2YWVW

I feel the same way you do about the darkness. Those are the only non tinted glasses I've seen that have gotten excellent reviews. I have a pair of the tinted version and liked them alot on my older WD-73640. I haven't tried them on my new WD-82642 yet though.

And for number 2., what do you mean by a two-block the contrast video setting?

But don't those glasses also use DLP link? I thought I read where the other glasses are better than the DLP link ones? I have never tried my DLP link glasses but I have been very pleased with my Xpand105 Bluetooth glasses. As far as the glasses being dark, it seems no different than when watching 3D in the theater to me. I use ADV1 on my Mitsubishi when watching 3D which has the brightness turned up 4 or 5 more which seems to compensate for the little bit of darkness from the glasses. Since my external scaler only has a pass through mode for 3D and doesn't process a 3D signal like it can with the 2D signals.
post #699 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ As far as number 1. I've been thinking of getting these glasses to try out. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053T5QPW/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2HLTZQ4H2YWVW

I feel the same way you do about the darkness. Those are the only non tinted glasses I've seen that have gotten excellent reviews. I have a pair of the tinted version and liked them alot on my older WD-73640. I haven't tried them on my new WD-82642 yet though.

And for number 2., what do you mean by a two-block the contrast video setting?

Thanks for the link, I'll most likely order them, though possibly in IR instead of DLP.

As to the contrast setting. The default setting on my 73742 is to have contrast set at max (ie; two block) smile.gif

Sorry for the confusion, for many of us of a certain age, two-block has meaning...
post #700 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

That might be from the channel and what they are broadcasting. I've seen that from many channels over the years with certain broadcasts.

I don't think so, as we watch the show all the time, and noticed it right away on the set. I'll try 720P to see if that makes a difference.
post #701 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

I've been flipping back and forth about an extended warranty. If you have a Costo membership you can get a 3 year(takes effect after manufacturer warranty ends) squaretrade waranty for under $100.

But I think now I am going to go with the 5 year Squaretrade warranty from Amazon. It covers the four years after the manufacturers 1 year warranty expires. If I was already a member of Costco I would just go with their warranty, but since I'm not, I'm going to opt for the longer warranty even though there is a higher upfront cost.


You don't have to be a member to buy Costco's warranty.
post #702 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by vivio View Post

You don't have to be a member to buy Costco's warranty.

When I checked into it, I was told I needed to be a member to purchase it. That the pricing was exclusive to Costco members.The price is certainly much, much lower than anywhere else I saw for a 3 year square trade warranty. And they only had three options at Costco, TVs above $1k, $500 to $1k, and below $500. Everywhere else had a bunch of options that were separated by $250 increments. The Costco ones are certainly a better deal. Although I wanted to get something that would cover my set for five years, so I went with the Mack warranty for $150.
post #703 of 1188
I read a few pages of this thread and couldn't find a clear consensus on a good set of 3D glasses. From what I gather I should avoid using the DLP Link glasses? And if I'm getting the 742 model and NOT using DLP link glasses do I have to buy any other accessories to get the glasses working?
post #704 of 1188
^^^

With the 742 you can either use DLP Link glasses or IR glasses (like the Sony PS3 3D glasses).

If you want bluetooth glasses, then you have to get an external emitter box.
post #705 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by lparsons21 View Post

^^^

With the 742 you can either use DLP Link glasses or IR glasses (like the Sony PS3 3D glasses).

If you want bluetooth glasses, then you have to get an external emitter box.

What are my pro's and cons of DLP Link vs IR?
post #706 of 1188
I can't answer that question other than from a price standpoint as I've only had the PS3 3D IR glasses. They are available at BestBuy for about $20, which makes them among the cheapest, especially for a rechargeable model.
post #707 of 1188
Some 3D musings...

I've posted about the darkness of the 3D glasses and how I am not enamored with how much they darken. Since then I've been playing around quite a bit with the settings on the TV and found that when I go to 3D or 2D to 3D conversion, that if I set Video to Bright with the Color Temp high, I get a brighter picture and the color temp change is somewhat offset by the tint in the Sony glasses. Very much good enough for most viewing light situations in my home.

One thing I started using a bit more than I ever thought I would is 2D to 3D conversion. While it certainly isn't anywhere as good as a good 3D movie, on some movies and shows it is very, very good! I watched AVP (Aliens vs Predator 2D) last night, and the effect using the conversion was amazing. Better even than Green Lantern 3D by far. I set the depth to -2 and have watched a few more shows/movies with the conversion on and it is simply amazing to me how well the TV does all on its own.

One thing I think I noted is that if I set 2D to 3D conversion on, and then switch to a real 3D source, I get 3D, or at least it seems so. Could someone else try that on their set and see if I'm correct?
post #708 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by lparsons21 View Post

Some 3D musings...

I've posted about the darkness of the 3D glasses and how I am not enamored with how much they darken. Since then I've been playing around quite a bit with the settings on the TV and found that when I go to 3D or 2D to 3D conversion, that if I set Video to Bright with the Color Temp high, I get a brighter picture and the color temp change is somewhat offset by the tint in the Sony glasses. Very much good enough for most viewing light situations in my home.

One thing I started using a bit more than I ever thought I would is 2D to 3D conversion. While it certainly isn't anywhere as good as a good 3D movie, on some movies and shows it is very, very good! I watched AVP (Aliens vs Predator 2D) last night, and the effect using the conversion was amazing. Better even than Green Lantern 3D by far. I set the depth to -2 and have watched a few more shows/movies with the conversion on and it is simply amazing to me how well the TV does all on its own.

One thing I think I noted is that if I set 2D to 3D conversion on, and then switch to a real 3D source, I get 3D, or at least it seems so. Could someone else try that on their set and see if I'm correct?

What are you using to produce the 2D to 3D conversion?
post #709 of 1188
He's probably using the 2d to 3d conversion setting in the TV menu.
post #710 of 1188
^^^
It is a menu selection on the TV.

Pull up the Menu, go to the 3D settings and you'll see it.
post #711 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

He's probably using the 2d to 3d conversion setting in the TV menu.

Exactly! smile.gif

I just wish I could figure out a way to have one button push to switch between 'auto' and '2d to 3d conversion'.
post #712 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by lparsons21 View Post

Exactly! smile.gif

I just wish I could figure out a way to have one button push to switch between 'auto' and '2d to 3d conversion'.

Silly me, i didn't even realize you could do that! Pretty cool! On my TV it's called the 2D + Depth setting.
post #713 of 1188
I have received my new 82842. I originally wanted the WD-82840 for the clear contrast screen. Received one 82840 damaged and none else were available. what I was wondering since I noticed my new 82842 has granularity to the display which I can see from my couch, can I replace the outside lens cover (smooth) with the clear contrast cover? Will this remove the granularity that seems to be caused by the outside screen cover or the mask below it? It seems the 82842 has a screen cover or mask on it like my cellphone screen protector that is antiglare, only it like my cellphone screen protector, causes granularity that dims the screen. I hate this so can I replace the screen or cover to make it more clear on the WD-82842 with the clear contrast screen or cover from the older WD-82840?? In the past I have reversed the screen cover with the lens so the lens was outside on my old Toshiba 61HX80 RPTV HDTV. This stopped any glare on the picture.
post #714 of 1188
My TV is cutting off quite a bit from the top and bottom of the screen.
I've looked through the thread and tried the manual geometry alignment, and that didn't help.

Can someone tell me exactly what to do to fix this, or at least lessen the amount?
post #715 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by lparsons21 View Post

Some 3D musings...

I've posted about the darkness of the 3D glasses and how I am not enamored with how much they darken. Since then I've been playing around quite a bit with the settings on the TV and found that when I go to 3D or 2D to 3D conversion, that if I set Video to Bright with the Color Temp high, I get a brighter picture and the color temp change is somewhat offset by the tint in the Sony glasses. Very much good enough for most viewing light situations in my home.

One thing I started using a bit more than I ever thought I would is 2D to 3D conversion. While it certainly isn't anywhere as good as a good 3D movie, on some movies and shows it is very, very good! I watched AVP (Aliens vs Predator 2D) last night, and the effect using the conversion was amazing. Better even than Green Lantern 3D by far. I set the depth to -2 and have watched a few more shows/movies with the conversion on and it is simply amazing to me how well the TV does all on its own.

One thing I think I noted is that if I set 2D to 3D conversion on, and then switch to a real 3D source, I get 3D, or at least it seems so. Could someone else try that on their set and see if I'm correct?

I tried the 2D to 3D conversion on my set a few times. Each time it made me feel queasy. Although I have no issue with normal 3D content from BDs, VOD, and cable.
post #716 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynast View Post

My TV is cutting off quite a bit from the top and bottom of the screen.
I've looked through the thread and tried the manual geometry alignment, and that didn't help.

Can someone tell me exactly what to do to fix this, or at least lessen the amount?

Every rear projection set is going to have overscan. This is normal. Mine has 3% or 4% on each side when using the over scan pattern. Although with my external scaler I could use the underscan option to bring in 100% of the picture on the visible screen. But I don't since things are produced with overscan in mind. With that minimal overscan I don't miss anything on screen. Now if it was so much overscan that I missed the ticker on the news channels that would be another story.

Maybe you should also check the centering of the picture. I had to center the picture on my 82642 since it was off around an inch. And then I performed the geometry correction. I used the service manual that was posted in the first link of this thread.
post #717 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

I tried the 2D to 3D conversion on my set a few times. Each time it made me feel queasy. Although I have no issue with normal 3D content from BDs, VOD, and cable.

I also tried the 2D + Depth and didn't see that it changed much plus I had to keep wearing the 3D glasses. Didn't seem worth it to me so I only set the 3D on when watching an actual 3D movie.
post #718 of 1188
How good or bad the 2D to 3D conversion effect is very source specific. I thought AVP was excellent with it as well as some other action movies I watched. For most TV shows it wasn't of much value IMO.
post #719 of 1188
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynast View Post

My TV is cutting off quite a bit from the top and bottom of the screen.
I've looked through the thread and tried the manual geometry alignment, and that didn't help.

Can someone tell me exactly what to do to fix this, or at least lessen the amount?
Make sure you're not in stretch or expand mode.
post #720 of 1188
I have one more question. Since Mitsubishi is no longer producing these sets should I purchased a 3rd party warranty for my 742? I was considering the Square one that Amazon offers but I was wondering if anybody has any experience with it or better suggestions? And as far as 3D goes will I have the same darkening issue if I go with DLP Link 3D glasses or is that not exclusive to IR glasses?
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