2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 29

I see. I wasn't even thinking about that.

I seem to remember the first Mits DLPs that came out would reset automatically when you changed the lamp? I believe my old WD-62525 did that when I changed the lamp. Don't have it anymore so I can't test it. That's the only one I've ever changed the lamp on. I still haven't needed to on the 73833, the 65738, the 82740 or the 92842. I have a spare lamp for the 73833 and the 92842 just in case I need to.

The hours are kept on the main board, no way to reset it. you have to keep track of the lamp hours manually. If the main board is replaced then it starts at zero.

Hey guys, Im not sure if this is the right thread but I just got a WD73742 and I was wondering if this was normal. As you can see in the picture, the bottom of the screen starts to widen out. Is this normal? If not, can I do anything to adjust it? Or do I need to file an RMA?

GEP......Thanks for the explanation. I've read so many posts regarding incapatibilities (audio won't feed; 3D won't feed, etc) of running HDMI from sources into the receiver, and then HDMI out from the receiver to the TV, that I figured a direct HDMI connection from source to TV would negate these possibilities. I didn't think the audio quality would be affected by using coaxial or optical digital cables from source to receiver. So, even though the receiver shows "DTS" being decoded from a Blu-ray disc, it's not "DTS Master HD".(if the disc is encoded that way). I also haven't seen "DD True HD" show up on the receiver display, if the disc is encoded with that....it just shows "Dolby Digital". I'll have to try the HDMI pass through the receiver to see if any of any of the HD audio decoding shows up on the display. The audio still sounds amazing through optical digital cable...can't imagine it being any better :>) Thanks again.

You probably need to adjust the geometry. This was one of the first things I did when I got my set. Although I still need to go through and get it more exact. I got it pretty close eyeing it, but I need to put a straight edge along the vertical and horizontal to get it exact.

The audio still sounds amazing through optical digital cable...can't imagine it being any better

In consumer testing, most couldn't tell the difference between core DTS/Dolby and uncompressed.

Mfgr's use it as a marketing ploy.

How do I do that, and will I be able to without screwing my TV up? Ive been searching on instructions and I can't find any.

Mits Geometry Correction Instructions

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Enter the Service Menu at your own risk.


- Press "menu"
- While on the menu screen press 2 4 5 7 wait 2 seconds then press 0
- You'll see 5 menu selections at the top of the screen
- Arrow down to "MANUAL KEYSTONE GEOMETRY ALIGNMENT" and press the "enter" button
- You will come to a black screen with overscan lines around the perimeter and two vertical lines at the 4:3 bar location
- Seeing this screen, you'll probably want to adjust the perimeter also which is the first part of these instructions. If not, read on through to the end which will get you to the 4:3 bar adjustment.
- There are adjustment points along the perimeter ("+" marks)
- The first point you're at when you arrive to the screen is the upper left corner
- Adjust that point (if needed) by pressing the up/down/left/right arrow keys in the direction you need that point to move to straighten any irregularities there. You won't see any of the lines move at this point, just the "+" pointer.
- You access the "+" points in a clockwise direction from the starting point by pressing "fast forward" (to the right of "play") on the remote to move to the next adjustment point. Adjust the pointer at the next point if needed in the same manner (up,down,left right) then on to the next point.
- "Fast Rewind" will move you backwards, point to point, headed back to the starting point.
- Since you don't see the results of your adjustments onscreen, you'll have to press "enter" which will return you to the Geometry menu screen, then "enter" again to get you back to the adjustment screen. Then you'll see the results. You'll be going back and forth like this quite a few times. NOTE: If you make an adjustment on a point and press "enter", that adjustment won't take. Make sure before you "enter" out to the menu, that you fast forward or rewind to the next point first.

- To adjust the two 4:3 vertical bars, "fast forward" all the way around to the starting point. Once there, you'll be in the 4:3 bar adjustment mode. The next "fast forward" press will make both 4:3 lines move. Just keep pressing "fast forward / rewind" until you get the bars straight as possible. Press "enter" to get back to the menu screen. If you are finished, press "exit".

I adjusted the geometry and it made a little difference on the right hand side of the screen but not the left. So I either dont know how to correctly adjust it or there is something else the matter.

It took me several tries to get it pretty good. Each time I did it, the geometry got better and better. But you can only get it so good just eyeing it.

Are there any instructions besides moving the dots? I just don't know if I understand how the dots function correctly.

You may or may not be aware that Geomery correction disables one to one pixel matching so it produces an iferior imaage, one that does not work particularly well with a computer. Having said that when you are trying to deal with really annoying geometery problems that becomes the bigger issue.

The factory geometery correction on my 92840 produce a pretty much perfectly rectangular image. I chose to turn geomtery correction off as I prefer pixel matching which is much sharper. I use a computer these days as my cable TV source and let the set overscan. 99.9 of the time I am using the computer it is in Windows Media Center and I don't care about overscan, so I don't correct for that either.

If you just got the set and you are having problems, you might as well return it for a non-defective set. You shouldn't have to do geometry corrections or anything out of the service menu on a brand new TV. Just my opinion.

I also went in to the geometry correction but only once. I watch 4:3 material now so very infrequently that it really doesn't matter to me anymore. The 16:9 geometry is good on my set and that is the only one that matters to me now.

I completely agree. Downfall is that most people are sold out and don't have extra units to replace.

Even using the geometry correction if it is exactly right you can get one to one pixel matching. When I was doing it by eye I had one to one pixel matching for over half the screen . But you can only do so much by eye. I just check by using the one to one pixel pattern.
But I don't use a PC on my set so I have no idea what it would look like. One day I'll need to connect my Netbook to it. Although everything going to my set does go through my Darblet so whether 1 to 1 or not, the Darblet makes a big difference in the crispness of the picture.
Edited by aaronwt - 2/24/13 at 11:41am

GEP.....Follow up: I disconnected the optical digital cable from my 3D Blu-ray player (SONY BDP-S590) to my Yamaha RX-V373 receiver (capable of DTS-HD, Dolby True HD, 3D pass through), I then ran HDMI from player to receiver, and HDMI from receiver to TV. Now, when playing a Blu-ray disc with either DTS-HD or Dolby True HD encoding, the receiver display shows "PCM" as the decoded audio. Previously, it showed either "Dolby Digital" or "DTS" with the optical digital cable connection. Regular DVD's only show "Dolby Digital". Is "PCM" a catch-all designation for decoding DTS-HD or Dolby True HD (depending on the disc encoding)? All these audio formats are confusing to the average consumer....just want to get the best possible performance from my system. Thanks again for any further explanation.

^^^
If it is showing PCM that means the bluray player is doing the decoding. There should be a setting to have that not happen.

That said, other than making the display show the codec being used, there is no difference where the decoding takes place.

In a perfect world there is no difference, but many receivers will apply some kind of processing to the multi-channel pcm input. I know my Denon receivers do. Whether that improve sit or not is up to the user. But I prefer to have the content bitstreamed. Especially when you hav devices, like the PS3, that can have issues. Like sending 2.0 audio in a 7.1 wrapper ( from some of the Apps), which means post processing can't be allplied to the signal so you end up with audio only from the FL and FR speakers.

I have the 742 model. I am trying to adjust the geometry settings. I have adjusted all the overscan lines around the edge to where they arent to shabby. But I really need to adjust the white 4:3 lines and cant seem to figure out how to do this. i copied the instructions from this thread, but it says "FF all the way around to the starting point, once there you will be in 4:3 adjustment mode. The next FF button push will make both 4:3 lines move. Just keep pressing FF and Rewind to make white bars move."...............The problem is I cant get away from the overscan line adjustment mode and into the 4:3 mode. Whwn I get to the starting point at the top left and hit FF again, I just move on to the next overscan line.
Help please.

Press the video button to move to different screens in the geometry menu

Thanks, and thanks to GEP for making me aware of the difference between using digital optical or coaxial audio cables vs HDMI to the receiver.
I found the setting in my Sony BD player, and the receiver is now showing "DTS-HD'" or "Dolby True HD" decoding of a Blu-ray disc. Sorry to get
off the track. Back to Mits DLP's......

... or the lack of them in the future.

Mine did the same thing although not as bad as yours. I called Mits and they had a repair man come out and he wanted to replace the light engine. I bitched to Mits saying I wanted a new TV because mine was less than a month old but they would not budge so I sent it back through Amazon. I got a replacement that did the same thing, so now I'm just living with it. Pretty sure a large % of them do it and Mits knows it but pretend like it is not a problem.

Anyone else experience early bulb failures? My 73742 is a couple months old and tonight would not turn on, light goes green but no picture and then eventually goes solid red. Have to call tomorrow and see about a replacement but it has me worried if it I shot already.

Question: Has anyone found a proper windows 7 64 bit driver for the 82742? The best I can manage is the generic one windows comes up with automatically.

There is a problem with it though. If you run full 1080p resolution, its fine. But if you run a desktop of game at a lower res, (for instance, 720p), the picture is not scaled up properly.

I'd like to run some processor intensive games at a lower resolution to get a better frame rate, but have them full the screen properly.

(I can for instance, run 720p on my hanns computer monitor, and it automatically scales to fill the screen.)

I've been using RP sets since 2001. Every RP set I've owned has needed some geometry adjustment. But with my past sets, I always had them professionally calibrated multiple times during their life. And the geometry adjustment was one of the things performed during calibration. This is the first RP set I've owned where I've done the calibration myself. I still need to get the tools to be able to do an exact alignment of the geometry since there are a few areas that are slightly off. But I only notice them when the camera pans. And even then it's only minor but I can't correct it without having a straight edge as a guide.

My previous TV was a 60" Sony RP and I never noticed any picture curve. With the Mits, I saw it in the first 10 minutes

Apparently my 60 is the exact same way I just didn't notice it since it was smaller.

Tech is at my house right now to do some adjustments and he doesn't know jack. His head is buried in the service manual. And he has accidentally kicked himself out of the geometry menu at least 10 times and bad to redo his adjustments. FML