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2012 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (C12/642/742/842 series) - Page 31

post #901 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkeclypse View Post

Also what is picture settings that most are using on this set? I'm talking about the Natural,Bright,brillant settings and light high or low?

I've been struggling since I got it to adjust this set to look as good as I can get it to where it looks great and also natural.. I cant really stand looking at the set unless its set to bright but then the colors seem way over saturated.

Also I tested a 3D movie out for the first time a few days ago and at first it was great.. watched the Titantic. Just skimmed through it real quick to demo the 3D for the wife before she went to bed. 3D looked great for normal/slow moving scenes but once there was some fast moving stuff going on it looked bad. I don't know what you would call it, if it was ghosting or laggy/double image but it really hurt the eyes trying to focus on it. I have 2 sets of the Xpand 3D Lite RF X105-M1 BT Active Shutter glasses.

I have seen zero ghosting with my two Xpand 105 glasses and Samsung glasses. Which is the opposite of my passive 3D LG set. For me, the 3D with active glasses on my Mitsibishi is less fatiguing than the Passive glasses with my LG set. I had read about ghosting before, but never saw it until I viewed 3D on my LG set.
post #902 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

You probably need to adjust the geometry. This was one of the first things I did when I got my set. Although I still need to go through and get it more exact. I got it pretty close eyeing it, but I need to put a straight edge along the vertical and horizontal to get it exact.
I tried this soon after I got my TV, but I drove myself crazy since one adjustment would affect another, etc. I finally reset it back to factory settings and let it be.
post #903 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkeclypse View Post

I'm getting the same thing on mine using the Disney WOW disk using there scailing test which is a 1x1 pixel checkerboard pattern. I tried adjusting the set in the service menu and lined it up better and its still like this. Picture looks good though otherwise but wondering whats causing this to happen during the test and if its something to be concerned about?

I just got my 82842 set last Thursday.


EDIT:

Just wanted to add that my 6 year old 61" Samsung DLP shows this pattern perfectly and also for my 3 year old 42" Pany Plasma and same for my 32" LCD in the bed room.

Anyone chime in on this issue? Would love to know if anyone else is getting this problem displaying 1x1 pixel mapping or displaying a 1x1 checkerboard pattern?

Would love to know if theres something wrong with my new tv before the 30 day return/exchange period is over from the store.
Edited by darkeclypse - 3/9/13 at 11:40am
post #904 of 1198
http://www.use.com/8e3c058cb1f14f36b50c

Heres some pics I took of my set using the Disney WOW calibration disk using the scale test and another which also has small squares of 1x1 or 2x2 pixel checkerboard.

I'm gona be going into the Pauls TV showroom in a couple of days to test a 73842 model with the same WOW disk to see if this may be the norm for these Tv's or it s something wrong with mine.
post #905 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkeclypse View Post

Anyone chime in on this issue? Would love to know if anyone else is getting this problem displaying 1x1 pixel mapping or displaying a 1x1 checkerboard pattern?

Would love to know if theres something wrong with my new tv before the 30 day return/exchange period is over from the store.

I only get 1:1 on 60% or so of the picture. This was after adjusting the geometry. I've always had the geometry adjusted with all my RP HDTVs since 2001. But I think this is the first DLP set I've owned that didn't show the 1:1 pixel mapping correctly. I know my Samsung sets did as long as I had it on the Just Scan? setting. Any other setting did not give 1:1 pixel mapping. But I don't see a setting like that on my Mitsubishi set.

Either way, I'm not worried about it. The picture is still excellent and sharp even though I'm not fully getting 1:1 pixel mapping. And from what I've read this seems to be the norm. I certainly was not going to leave the Geometry the way it was initially.
post #906 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

I only get 1:1 on 60% or so of the picture. This was after adjusting the geometry. I've always had the geometry adjusted with all my RP HDTVs since 2001. But I think this is the first DLP set I've owned that didn't show the 1:1 pixel mapping correctly. I know my Samsung sets did as long as I had it on the Just Scan? setting. Any other setting did not give 1:1 pixel mapping. But I don't see a setting like that on my Mitsubishi set.

Either way, I'm not worried about it. The picture is still excellent and sharp even though I'm not fully getting 1:1 pixel mapping. And from what I've read this seems to be the norm. I certainly was not going to leave the Geometry the way it was initially.

Thanks for your input aaronwt! Sets the mind at ease a little.maybe we will get lucky and this is just something that Mits can release an update to fix if need be.
post #907 of 1198
There's going to be a lot more activity in this thread with the Tiger Direct deal, I'm guessing. One question before I pull the trigger on this thing for the 799, I already have a 29 inch tall stand for a previous TV that was recently stolen (unfortunately).

Obviously that's going to mean this TV would be too high, by probably like a foot or so, but is that really going to make watching stuff unbearable on it? I understand I could just replace the stand as well, but that's not really an option, it was recently purchased and too expensive for me to convince the wife to get rid of it.
post #908 of 1198
Most of the stands for this size tv seem to be 23" high. What is the width of your stand? The TV is 65".
post #909 of 1198
My new stand that came with my 82" is much too tall and its only 22 inches tall. I've already debated cutting off the 3 inch feet on it to make it shorter. The eyes should be level with the center of the screen. If the stand is too tall the top part of the tv will be much darker looking.
post #910 of 1198
For all you guys worried about your TV stand being to high, is raising your seats an option?

My 82" TV is on a stand that's 22" high. And that made the TV to high in my opinion so I raised all my sofas an extra 3 inches and now the height is just fine.

I use these here....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049I4IJI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2LM6ZPY06LT1N
post #911 of 1198
What are you guys using to protect the tv set from power outages, surges, etc. A $10 power strip or a UPS for about $50?
post #912 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchFlorida View Post

What are you guys using to protect the tv set from power outages, surges, etc. A $10 power strip or a UPS for about $50?

I got my first power conditioner for my HT setup about 10 years ago. When I saw what a difference it made in improving the PQ and SQ of my HT equipment I've always had 1 in my setup. I have wondered though with the improvement in gear in the last few years, how much of a difference it really makes these days though. Maybe it's not as big an improvement as it used to be, or maybe there's no improvement at all. redface.gif

This is the 1 I use now for all my stuff. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001541R5W/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mainly bought it because of the blue lights matching the blue lights from my Emotiva amps. Plus the amount of outlets it has, and it has gotten good reviews. And the price is great too.
post #913 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchFlorida View Post

What are you guys using to protect the tv set from power outages, surges, etc. A $10 power strip or a UPS for about $50?

I have mine on an APC 1500 UPS with an extended runtime battery. So I'm good for several hours during an outage. I've had my HDTVs connected to a UPS since I got my first HDTV in 2001. I also have my other electronics backups as well. Subwoofer, receiver, TiVos, etc.. So I can continue using everything like normal when there is a power outage.
post #914 of 1198
a ups is recommended in addition to a surge protector.

If power goes out while tv is on, then fan won't have power to properly cool down lamp, heat stressing the lamp.

ups solves that issue.
post #915 of 1198
I finally got my new WD-73642 and I really like it. What a bargain for $800. One question I can't find the answer to, when does the TV turn off if you walk away from the set for several minutes or an hour? Does it go into sleep mode or does it completely turn off?

I am used to just leaving the TV on when I leave the room .. do I need to turn it off if I am not going to be watching for a half=hour or so?

By the way, I called Mitsubishi Customer Service about this and they didn't have the answer.
Edited by MitchFlorida - 3/14/13 at 12:49pm
post #916 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchFlorida View Post

I finally got my new WD-73642 and I really like it. What a bargain for $800. One question I can't find the answer to, when does the TV turn off if you walk away from the set for several minutes or an hour? Does it go into sleep mode or does it completely turn off?

I am used to just leaving the TV on when I leave the room .. do I need to turn it off if I am not going to be watching for a half=hour or so?

By the way, I called Mitsubishi Customer Service about this and they didn't have the answer.

Here is the information right out of the owner's manual:

Setting the Sleep Timer
1. Press SLEEP.
2. Press SLEEP additional times to increase the time in
30-minute increments up to the maximum of 120
minutes.
3. Press EXIT or wait five seconds without pressing any
keys for the message to clear.
Viewing or Changing the Sleep Timer
1. Press SLEEP to display the on-screen message.
2. Press SLEEP additional times to change the time
before the TV powers off. To cancel the Sleep
Timer, press SLEEP repeatedly until OFF is displayed

It won't turn off automatically but it's pretty easy to do from the remote.
post #917 of 1198
I didn't mean that. I guess I was thinking it would be like a PC monitor and go into sleep mode after a few minutes of no use. I found out that it is better just to leave it on a few hours unwatched than to turn it off and on constantly.
post #918 of 1198
----
Edited by MitchFlorida - 3/14/13 at 1:42pm
post #919 of 1198
I know my set will turn off after awhile if there is no video. Not sure exactly how long it is though until it turns off.
post #920 of 1198
My DLP is always receiving a video signal because I have a TiVo connected to it which never turns off. I think the OP was referring to more of a "screen saver" type situation which the DLP's don't have because they don't suffer from screen burn-in like other technologies such as plasma's do...
post #921 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchFlorida View Post

I didn't mean that. I guess I was thinking it would be like a PC monitor and go into sleep mode after a few minutes of no use. I found out that it is better just to leave it on a few hours unwatched than to turn it off and on constantly.

PC monitors go into sleep mode because of inactivity from the user. If you were to stop using your mouse or keyboard for a specified amount of time, then your monitor would go into sleep mode.

How would you expect your TV to be able to do this same thing? Unless you had your TV hooked up to a computer.

What you're asking doesn't make any sense. How could a TV know you're no longer in the room watching TV, and thus, go into sleep mode to save power?!? tongue.gif
post #922 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post

PC monitors go into sleep mode because of inactivity from the user. If you were to stop using your mouse or keyboard for a specified amount of time, then your monitor would go into sleep mode.

How would you expect your TV to be able to do this same thing? Unless you had your TV hooked up to a computer.

What you're asking doesn't make any sense. How could a TV know you're no longer in the room watching TV, and thus, go into sleep mode to save power?!? tongue.gif

well that would be easy. My brothers Sony TV does it. It has a camera that detects if someone is in the room watching TV. When it doesn't detect someone there, after a certain amount of time the TV turns off.

I run all my devices through several other devices, whether it's an HDMI switch, scaler, or digital video enhancer. If any of those devices are off, my Mitsubishi won't get a video signal.(and no audio is sent to the TV either). So for some reason if the TV does not get the signal to turn off, I know it will turn off on it's own. Which is nice. But nothing new. My 1991 32" tube TV also did the same thing.
post #923 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronwt View Post

well that would be easy. My brothers Sony TV does it. It has a camera that detects if someone is in the room watching TV. When it doesn't detect someone there, after a certain amount of time the TV turns off.

I run all my devices through several other devices, whether it's an HDMI switch, scaler, or digital video enhancer. If any of those devices are off, my Mitsubishi won't get a video signal.(and no audio is sent to the TV either). So for some reason if the TV does not get the signal to turn off, I know it will turn off on it's own. Which is nice. But nothing new. My 1991 32" tube TV also did the same thing.

Proof or it doesn't exist!
post #924 of 1198
I guess my real question is, what is the best way to preserve life of the lamp, turn it off periodically during the day or just leave it on? I have heard that it is harder on the lamp to be turned on and off several times a day than to just leave it on continuously.
post #925 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by yadfgp View Post


Proof or it doesn't exist!
My PS3 is set to shut down after a few hours of inactivity. My Mits DLPTV detects the lack of signal and in about 4 minutes warns that it will shut down if a key is not pressed within one minute. It is a WD-65835 from 2008. Try it on your own set.
Edited by Augerhandle - 3/14/13 at 6:37pm
post #926 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchFlorida View Post

I guess my real question is, what is the best way to preserve life of the lamp, turn it off periodically during the day or just leave it on? I have heard that it is harder on the lamp to be turned on and off several times a day than to just leave it on continuously.
2 hours or less I would leave it on, otherwise shut it off
post #927 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkeclypse View Post

I'm getting the same thing on mine using the Disney WOW disk using there scailing test which is a 1x1 pixel checkerboard pattern. I tried adjusting the set in the service menu and lined it up better and its still like this. Picture looks good though otherwise but wondering whats causing this to happen during the test and if its something to be concerned about?

I just got my 82842 set last Thursday.


EDIT:

Just wanted to add that my 6 year old 61" Samsung DLP shows this pattern perfectly and also for my 3 year old 42" Pany Plasma and same for my 32" LCD in the bed room.

Isn't the factory geometry correction a lovely sight to see.!

Not all sets look as wild as your pitcutre,, Mine just has one area of moire with correction on. I don't run correction. The only thing you can do is turn off correction and see if you can tolerate the set with correction off. It varies dramatically from set to set. My 92840 its no contest which I find more tolerable. I will take the slight horizontal dip to the center. Can not see it on normal content. The correction to my way of looking totally farkles sharpness, sure not as obviously as on test patterns, but the test patterns are telling you something aren't they.

I use a Win 7 MC HTPC with a Ceton cable tuner and 2 HD Homeruns for my TV source. The only time I notice the geometry is in the program guide and it is just not relevant. Now if you have a corner or two that are very unsquare that can be really annoying. Also if you have bad barrel or pincushion distortion such the in full screen mode the overscan doesn't hide it then geometry correction is a necessary evil. In my case the cure is far worse than the disease. My 82837 was almost perfect with correction off. That was I think in part because the 2009 82" ihav has a very stiff chassis and the physical screen did not bow much. In every other way my 2011, 92840 is a vastly superior device.

Fortunately the bow is at the very top and minor. The same amount of bow at the bottom would be annoying especially with an HTPC or programs like CNN, ESPN and CNBC where you have lot of tickers and rectangular informaton banner horizontal accross much of the bottom of the screen.

Too bad Mits chose an electronic control of geometry instead of a mechanical, One with an adjustable platform for the light engine perch would have been the way to go.
Edited by gtgray - 3/14/13 at 11:29pm
post #928 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Isn't the factory geometry correction a lovely sight to see.!

Not all sets look as wild as your pitcutre,, Mine just has one area of moire with correction on. I don't run correction. The only thing you can do is turn off correction and see if you can tolerate the set with correction off. It varies dramatically from set to set. My 92840 its no contest which I find more tolerable. I will take the slight horizontal dip to the center. Can not see it on normal content. The correction to my way of looking totally farkles sharpness, sure not as obviously as on test patterns, but the test patterns are telling you something aren't they.

I use a Win 7 MC HTPC with a Ceton cable tuner and 2 HD Homeruns for my TV source. The only time I notice the geometry is in the program guide and it is just not relevant. Now if you have a corner or two that are very unsquare that can be really annoying. Also if you have bad barrel or pincushion distortion such the in full screen mode the overscan doesn't hide it then geometry correction is a necessary evil. In my case the cure is far worse than the disease. My 82837 was almost perfect with correction off. That was I think in part because the 2009 82" ihav has a very stiff chassis and the physical screen did not bow much. In every other way my 2011, 92840 is a vastly superior device.

Fortunately the bow is at the very top and minor. The same amount of bow at the bottom would be annoying especially with an HTPC or programs like CNN, ESPN and CNBC where you have lot of tickers and rectangular informaton banner horizontal accross much of the bottom of the screen.

Too bad Mits chose an electronic control of geometry instead of a mechanical, One with an adjustable platform for the light engine perch would have been the way to go.

Thanks for the info.. I don't see an option to turn off correction in the service menu.. Any ideas?
post #929 of 1198
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

Isn't the factory geometry correction a lovely sight to see.!

Not all sets look as wild as your pitcutre,, Mine just has one area of moire with correction on. I don't run correction. The only thing you can do is turn off correction and see if you can tolerate the set with correction off. It varies dramatically from set to set. My 92840 its no contest which I find more tolerable. I will take the slight horizontal dip to the center. Can not see it on normal content. The correction to my way of looking totally farkles sharpness, sure not as obviously as on test patterns, but the test patterns are telling you something aren't they.

I use a Win 7 MC HTPC with a Ceton cable tuner and 2 HD Homeruns for my TV source. The only time I notice the geometry is in the program guide and it is just not relevant. Now if you have a corner or two that are very unsquare that can be really annoying. Also if you have bad barrel or pincushion distortion such the in full screen mode the overscan doesn't hide it then geometry correction is a necessary evil. In my case the cure is far worse than the disease. My 82837 was almost perfect with correction off. That was I think in part because the 2009 82" ihav has a very stiff chassis and the physical screen did not bow much. In every other way my 2011, 92840 is a vastly superior device.

Fortunately the bow is at the very top and minor. The same amount of bow at the bottom would be annoying especially with an HTPC or programs like CNN, ESPN and CNBC where you have lot of tickers and rectangular informaton banner horizontal accross much of the bottom of the screen.

Too bad Mits chose an electronic control of geometry instead of a mechanical, One with an adjustable platform for the light engine perch would have been the way to go.

Thanks for the info.. I don't see an option to turn off correction in the service menu.. Any ideas?
post #930 of 1198
Hey guys,


Can anyone point me in the right direction of where to find a 92" at this point?
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