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Type of Screen and distance - Page 2

post #31 of 75
9/24/12 at 7:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by memphisanid View Post

As stated above, inspect before you have them cut it so you aren't stuck with a piece that isn't fit for the application.
LL is the version I used over the weekend, you will not be disappointed! One of my buddies has been helping me along the way from the start and has seen the room go from the Epson 8100 on BOC to the Spandex Screen of all 4 variations I had and then the unpainted Sintra board. When he saw the screen an hour after the last coat (not even cured mind you!) he was speechless... As was I
Rust-Oleum paint can be found here
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EELN1Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
I found everything else at Home Depot and Michael's (for the Liquitex Basics Silver, if you dont have a michaels close then you can find it on amazon as well)
This is a must as well. It goes in and out of stock very often so purchase while you can. http://www.amazon.com/Homax-69011-1-Gallon-PolyPro-Galvanized/dp/B000ELORFE/ref=pd_sim_hi_2
The reason I use amazon for most things is because I have prime so I get everything within one to two days. If for some reason you can not find the squirrel cage paint mixer (very essential so find it if you can!) let me know and I can point you in the direction of a separate one I had to use for the last batch.


I am curious.

What Spandex variations did you try? And what did you not like about them?
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post #32 of 75
9/24/12 at 7:24am
Thread Starter 
Can anyone help me? I wanted to start hanging and painting, but I want to make sure I do it right.
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post #33 of 75
9/24/12 at 2:32pm
Since you asked so nicely...and I'm staying out of the Sun today...I'll step back in......
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamn333 View Post

Alight, just got the screen wall painted. Went with a espresso bean color, which is a very dark brown. It can be seen below. I know I need to touch it up at the bottom, but you get the idea.
I just have a quick question about the sintra mounting/painting. What length truss screws should I use?

1.25" if you can find them. "Sharp Point"....not "Self Tapping".

Also, the side mounting do not line up with studs, so is it ok just to put the truss screws straight into the drywall?

With the longer screws, if you tighten them in by hand and watch / feel the sides pull inward...you should be OK and good to last until you attach the Trim over the Sintra after painting.

Lastly, I bought the stuff for the MM mixture (see additional pic), and the trim did not have an indention that the sintra can "sit" in like I thought it would. Based on your above post, it looks like you say I can just fill in the gap with sintra trimmings, is that what you were referring to above? If so, would it actually look bad to just have the trim cover 2" of the sintra and leave 1 3/4"?

1st and 2nd answers: Yes. Yes. They can act as both Spacer/Nailer, helping to support the width of Trim that over hangs the outside edge of the Sintra.
3rd Answer: I regularly use 3.25" trim with 2" overlaying the screen to get my format size, and the balance extending past the Sintra's outside edge and resting on the Sintra Tab Cuttings.

..........and I'm not going to repeat that again !!!!!

wink.gif




Edit: Crap, just realized I left the Metallic Accents out. Darn it.

Well if you haven't jumped in and ordered the Pearl, JoAnn's Website has the original Delta Ceramcoat "White Pearl Finish" in 2 oz Bottle for $1.49 ea. Simply order the specific amount you need in ounces at 2 oz increments. If it works out to be less expensive...or just more readily available than the Metallic Accents, then there you go.,......

Myself, I ordered 50 bottles of Silver Metallic and 40 of the Pearl Finish last week and they had no problem filling my order immediately..

Now we all know where all the Delta Paints went to....JoAnn Stores! I thought it was passing strange that Delta would discontinue such a popular duo of products like the Silver & Pearl.
(...either that or they did and JoAnn bought up every lick of the remaining inventory....)

One last question from me.

Are you going to paint the Side Walls dark as well? In truth, it is them as well as the Ceiling that matters most, but especially those Walls because they really crowd into the Sides of the Screen....

The Screen Wall has virtually no bearing on Screen performance unless it is serving as a light masking surface as well. But those bright-arse Walls and Ceiling will absolutely affect the Screen's performance. The Screen's own coating will of course be of much help...but it would be all the better for any effective balancing you'd do between the degree of surface reflectivity of those areas and the light that come out of the PJ and reflects outward of the screen toward those areas.
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post #34 of 75
9/24/12 at 3:10pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Since you asked so nicely...

Hey MM, sorry, I really appreciate all your help with the screen so far, it is people like you and maxx that make this community so wonderful to be a part of. I didn't mean to come off rude.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

and I'm staying out of the Sun today...I'll step back in......
Well if you haven't jumped in and ordered the Pearl, JoAnn's Website has the original Delta Ceramcoat "White Pearl Finish" in 2 oz Bottle for $1.49 ea. Simply order the specific amount you need in ounces at 2 oz increments. If it works out to be less expensive...or just more readily available than the Metallic Accents, then there you go.,......
Myself, I ordered 50 bottles of Silver Metallic and 40 of the Pearl Finish last week and they had no problem filling my order immediately..
Now we all know where all the Delta Paints went to....JoAnn Stores! I thought it was passing strange that Delta would discontinue such a popular duo of products like the Silver & Pearl.
(...either that or they did and JoAnn bought up every lick of the remaining inventory....)
One last question from me.
Are you going to paint the Side Walls dark as well? In truth, it is them as well as the Ceiling that matters most, but especially those Walls because they really crowd into the Sides of the Screen....
The Screen Wall has virtually no bearing on Screen performance unless it is serving as a light masking surface as well. But those bright-arse Walls and Ceiling will absolutely affect the Screen's performance. The Screen's own coating will of course be of much help...but it would be all the better for any effective balancing you'd do between the degree of surface reflectivity of those areas and the light that come out of the PJ and reflects outward of the screen toward those areas.

I will have to talk to the boss and see if she would be open to painting the walls. Just off the top of my head, I am not sure what would go well with dark brown, but are there any colors I need to stay away from for the walls and ceiling?
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post #35 of 75
9/24/12 at 4:52pm
Dude....you were not Rude. I was just exercising my own brand of humor. Iffin' I go "Mississippi" on ya, there would be no mistake! (...not that I do that much anymore...everyone is so polite! )

Mid Tone to Dark Green in a Flat would look good. A dark, Flat Forrest Green would look the Best.....

.....that's my opinion.
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post #36 of 75
9/25/12 at 1:25pm
Thread Starter 
I try to be very nice to everyone I run across, as you are probably aware, that's what we in the south call Southern Hospitality.


Well, talked the boss into letting me paint the rest of the room. She was OK with using the same color brown. Do you think that this brown is a good choice?
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post #37 of 75
9/25/12 at 3:17pm
Yes...because if brown must be used it needs to be almost black in appearance.
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post #38 of 75
10/23/12 at 5:08pm
Thread Starter 
MM, just an update. I wasn't able to find truss head screws with the sharp point. The closest was the self tapping. I just tried home depot. Is that going to be a specialty item? Also, will the MM mixture clean up with water or do I need some thinner? Lastly, on the velvet, do you just use standard black, or is there a special color?
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post #39 of 75
10/23/12 at 7:43pm
williamn333,

Answers are forthcoming.
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post #40 of 75
10/24/12 at 4:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamn333 View Post

MM, just an update. I wasn't able to find truss head screws with the sharp point. The closest was the self tapping. I just tried home depot. Is that going to be a specialty item?

Well, I asked awhile back where you lived but got no answer so I can't help you locate some locally, but try Lowes. they may have them in 1-5/16".

They would be best to use because you would not have to remove them after the glued Sintra dries because the heads being so flat would not create any issues as far as overlaying the trim.
Quote:
Also, will the MM mixture clean up with water or do I need some thinner?

Sometimes I gotta wonder if you've done any reading at all. smile.gif Of course the MM is water based....you add water to it to thin the mixture. So Water clean-up is of course the order of the day.
Quote:
Lastly, on the velvet, do you just use standard black, or is there a special color?

That goes for the Black Velvet as well. Read this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/865218/wrapping-black-velvet-on-trim-with-mitered-or-butt-joined-ends

...and get your Velvet here: http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Triple-Velvet/681/264

You WILL NOT find better velvet...or less expensive velvet for that matter, anywhere else.
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post #41 of 75
10/24/12 at 9:04am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Well, I asked awhile back where you lived but got no answer so I can't help you locate some locally, but try Lowes. they may have them in 1-5/16".
They would be best to use because you would not have to remove them after the glued Sintra dries because the heads being so flat would not create any issues as far as overlaying the trim.

Sorry MM, I live in the DFW area. I thought I answered that when you asked before. Just have too much going on in my head these days. confused.gif
I checked lowes website and all they have is the truss head machine screws which is what I found at home depot also. I will go by there when I get off work to see if I can find some in store. In the thread you referenced below, you mentioned that 1.5" finish nails driven in at an angle would hold it also. Is this something you had a bad experience with and so you switched to screws or would this still work if I can't find the screws?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Sometimes I gotta wonder if you've done any reading at all. smile.gif Of course the MM is water based....you add water to it to thin the mixture. So Water clean-up is of course the order of the day.

Once again, my bad. I always read threads on here where people are told to search and READ and then I get caught in the same thing. I am in the process of reading through some of the old MM threads. The reason I thought it might need thinner
was because of the use of the minwax. Shows my lack of paint knowledge! tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That goes for the Black Velvet as well. Read this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/865218/wrapping-black-velvet-on-trim-with-mitered-or-butt-joined-ends
...and get your Velvet here: http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/Plush-Triple-Velvet/Black-Plush-Triple-Velvet/681/264
You WILL NOT find better velvet...or less expensive velvet for that matter, anywhere else

I will order some of this today.

On another note, in reading through that same velvet thread you mentioned to someone that wanted a removeable screen to use a piece of board behind their substrate and screw it to the wall and then put the substrate on top of that. Would I be able to do this too so I don't have to use the adhesive straight on the wall (to eliminate the need of repairing the wall if/when I pull the screen down)? This would also hopefully eliminate the need for cutting the sintra trim pieces to go under the edges of the MDF. Thoughts (hopefully this wasn't answered already in some other thread!)?
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post #42 of 75
10/25/12 at 5:43am
The minimum number of Truss Head Screws used are to hold the Screen in place while painting....the "additional" nails are used to secure the Trim "after painting" and thereby serve to further secure the material.

Exactly what size screen are you considering. "Backer Boards" can be easy...or very daunting additions. Frankly...all things considered (...and considering a few that surely haven't arisen as of yet...) you would seem to be at a point I would not suggest interjecting anything else.

Search for those screws. If you cannot find them....I'll arrange to have enough sent to you. Let's get you started down a defined path....this is wearing me out. biggrin.gif
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post #43 of 75
10/25/12 at 6:43am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

The minimum number of Truss Head Screws used are to hold the Screen in place while painting....the "additional" nails are used to secure the Trim "after painting" and thereby serve to further secure the material.
Exactly what size screen are you considering.

I am just going to do a 110" for now. If I upgrade projector later, I will rebuild.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

"Backer Boards" can be easy...or very daunting additions. Frankly...all things considered (...and considering a few that surely haven't arisen as of yet...) you would seem to be at a point I would not suggest interjecting anything else.
Search for those screws. If you cannot find them....I'll arrange to have enough sent to you. Let's get you started down a defined path....this is wearing me out. biggrin.gif

Sorry man, the wife says the same thing about me. I guess I just like to have everything I can in order before I start. Then when I read something different, it enters more possibilities into the equation. You are right, I don't mean to wear you down, I just need to measure, mount the screen, paint, and be done! I will get to it tonight.
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post #44 of 75
12/1/12 at 9:17am
Thread Starter 
So after much procrastinating (I do it so well!) I was able to get the screen mounted. I went ahead and put together a 1x4 frame to mount the sintra to. I tried liquid nails, but I could never get the screen to stick to the wood completely, there were some spots that took. Maybe I didn't wait long enough. I used the "ledge" method as MM explained. I don't see any bowing, maybe because of 6mm? Now all I have to do is paint the screen and mount the trim and I am good to go! One thing I did notice is that projecting onto the sintra without any painting is that it is very shiny and you can see bright spots on it. Is that normal or does that indicate I have a bow?





Edited by williamn333 - 12/1/12 at 2:42pm
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post #45 of 75
12/3/12 at 6:45pm
Thread Starter 
Anyone?
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post #46 of 75
12/3/12 at 6:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamn333 View Post

Anyone?


No...the Sintra has a slight sheen.

You can rub it down using a Magic Eraser (clean) and reduce the sheen considerably.
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post #47 of 75
12/3/12 at 7:39pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks MM, I am really happy to finally get it up. Should I be worried about bowing on that frame since the liquid nails didn't stick in all places?
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post #48 of 75
12/4/12 at 6:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamn333 View Post

Thanks MM, I am really happy to finally get it up. Should I be worried about bowing on that frame since the liquid nails didn't stick in all places?


Only if those places were extensive, and in toward the center. 6mm Sintra is fairly rigid, and with just a little support in strategic areas will maintain a straight hang. 3mm Sintra is a whole 'nother animal though.
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post #49 of 75
12/4/12 at 7:34am
Thread Starter 
Yeah, that's what I was worried about since it didn't stick all the way to the center of the frame and I can't put screws through the center. I think I am just going to move forward and get it painted this week and get the trim pieces mounted and velvet'ed.
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post #50 of 75
12/4/12 at 7:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamn333 View Post

Yeah, that's what I was worried about since it didn't stick all the way to the center of the frame and I can't put screws through the center. I think I am just going to move forward and get it painted this week and get the trim pieces mounted and velvet'ed.

You could always flip it around and apply some beads along the edges that are not firmly attached....like caulking a Window, then press smooth the adhesive bead against the Sintra. That additional "grab" should prevent any future potential "bowing". If your gonna do anything to mitigate your concerns, now is the time. Don't cry later! cool.gif
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post #51 of 75
1/27/13 at 6:21pm
Thread Starter 
So, I finally got around to mixing the MaxMudd v2.1 and am having a little bit of trouble. I mixed for about 10-15 minutes and when I tried to put it through the nylon sock, I had chunks of the silver metallic still in the mixture. How long is normal before it is ready? It seems like that metallic is hard to mix in, it kept getting stuck to my squirrel mixer too.
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post #52 of 75
1/27/13 at 6:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by williamn333 View Post

So, I finally got around to mixing the MaxMudd v2.1 and am having a little bit of trouble. I mixed for about 10-15 minutes and when I tried to put it through the nylon sock, I had chunks of the silver metallic still in the mixture. How long is normal before it is ready? It seems like that metallic is hard to mix in, it kept getting stuck to my squirrel mixer too.

Odd.....what type of Silver Metallic did you use, and how did you mix it in? Sounds like it was in a pretty heavy, thick state. How quickly did it pass through the strainer?

If the Silver Metallic does not have a loose paste consistency in it's own container / Tube, it's best to squeeze /spoon it out into a small container and dilute it with Distilled Water to a "smooth porridge consistency" before trying to mix it.

Did you mix up the Viscosity Components first then add the Reflective components separately, or mix the Reflective Components together first?

Whatever else, the solution at hand is to strain, collect, dilute and re-add, then make sure your overall mix is at it's proper thinness. Then slowly mix it for a 3 minutes (...which with a "Squirrel? is like hours with a normal mixer...) be through, check the Mixer for a proper looking "run off"...and mix some more. You cannot "over mix' the paint...and for really troublesome cases, you can "whip" the paint (gently) and the higher speed will eventually get'ter dun.

.....however you have to let the paint settle down and then re-mix it a few times at 'slow" speed to disperse all the air bubbles. Or just restrain it at that point and that works too.
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post #53 of 75
1/27/13 at 6:59pm
lets hope he didn't get a hold of some very old tubes of silver metallic or some that someone had opened up...let air into... and hardened.

or worse yet... hope he didn't use some kind of oil based silver metallic.

or possibly... he used an oil based minwax which would then clump up the metallic and acrylic.
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post #54 of 75
1/27/13 at 7:20pm
Thread Starter 
It was just the Metallics Basic at Michael's. I didn't mix it in any particular order. I guess I should have mixed some water with the metallics. I think I am going to just keep mixing. Also, the minwax was the water-based.
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post #55 of 75
1/27/13 at 8:15pm
Thread Starter 
Alrighty! After mixing a little more, I think I have the visocity right, you guys tell me. Here is a video. It does pool just a little, but it looks like it is not backing up and flowing through at a good rate. One concern I had is it looks very white, and not very grayish. Is this normal? Lastly, even after putting through nylon, it still had air bubbles. Do I just have to keep straining until there are none?

Video, needs to be unzipped.
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post #56 of 75
1/28/13 at 1:49pm
Thread Starter 
Were you guys able to open the video?
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post #57 of 75
1/28/13 at 7:35pm
Thread Starter 
I really need someone's help before I spray this. I don't want to mess up my sintra, then have to sand everything down again.... frown.giffrown.giffrown.giffrown.gif
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post #58 of 75
1/29/13 at 6:39am
Hey...looks good.

MaxxMudd looks to be very light...almost a silvery-white...or whitish-silver. Don't be concerned if you find it hard at first to see the difference between the initial coats you put up and the white background. The paint is very translucent, and it takes a few coats to build up a reflective opacity. Usually 4-5 coats will accomplish that. But as you proceed, you'll notice a change where the applied paint begins to take a predominant role, and the underlying white becomes the barely noticeable surface. when at last you can detect no trace of "white"...your all good.
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post #59 of 75
1/29/13 at 7:50am
Thread Starter 
Thanks MM, you are da best! biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

Do you recommend 6-7 dusters at 12-14" away or 3-4 regular coatings at 8-10"?

or neither???

I am using the grayco 2900 with the tip that comes with it.
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post #60 of 75
2/9/13 at 12:03pm
Thread Starter 
OK, so I got the first duster on. I am worried I might have orange peel. I couldn't find the original picture of what MM said it should look like. I will let you guys be the judge. If I do have orange peel, what are my options now?

Also, when you guys say to clean the sprayer after every coat, are you talking about just running water through it, or completely disassembling it from pickup tube to nozzle and washing the components out?



Edited by williamn333 - 2/9/13 at 12:27pm
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