Best roll on paint combination...

The only rollable DIY paint I have seen on the forum is RS-MaxxMudd LL but to put it in the words of MM
Spraying is not hard at all, it really just takes a little bit to get used to the gun and how close and fast to move across the screen. I did all of this in one day from about 10 am to 8pm. I had the help of a space heater to quicken a bit but this also included the learning of using the gun. There are a bunch of people on this forum that will help you with the process, you just need to ask the questions BEFORE so that you can go into with all the knowledge of everyone else who has done it.

So in short, you can roll but it is worth it to spray as the end result is that much easier with proven results

Wary....? Or truly "weary" as in too pooped to squirt?

Tell me everything you can relate about your equipment and viewing environment. Let's see if a simpler solution can be had.

But don't discount the possibility of Spraying, because as mentioned above, in truth, you'll face more chance of unsatisfactory results from using poor rolling technique than you would from spraying using the technique and equipment we suggest.

So....leave your Sister alone.......

Hey...sorry, I forgot to say "Welcome to DIY Screens".

The "Speak to Text" on my Galaxy II was at best spotty until a recent upgrade was added...now it's almost "Spot On' if I at least enunciate. Still, to avoid embarrassment...i try to always review before hitting send. Sadly..."Try to" doesn't always happen.


[quore]Projector: Epson Powerlight 6500ub
Screen size: 110'' to 120'' - would like to go bigger but in wall speakers are in the way (previous owner)
Location: open basement with some ambient light during day[/quote]

Stick with 110" Mount the screen centered between the center Speaker and ceiling...or if anything, a bit closer to the Speaker.
Nothing "Rolled" can approach Silver Fire in it's darker versions. RS-MM-LL will do great, but it's still gonna need at least some degree of effect light control on the window on the tight. Non-directed ambient light from incandescents? No problemo.

But no matter what, for the very best results...ya gotta consider spraying as being mandatory.

Really hot?

Take her to Vegas.
Avoid the Paparazzi.
Deny everything...admit nothing.
And don't play Pool with anyone named "William".

Whoa.

Do you know what type sprayer to get?

This is the current champion at being both effective and inexpensive:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRACO-HV2900-39-CFM-450W-HVLP-House-Paint-Spray-Station-Machine-System-Painter-/230791007590#ht_4652wt_1140

It comes with a 2.0 mm Tip. If you get a 0.5mm accessory Tip, you can use it to apply Tanning Solution too.

You wouldn't want to run across George Hamilton on the Strip looking like...........well, me.

Sure it does / they are..

Go here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1311989/the-official-silver-fire-v-2-thread

........and in the first post, scroll down to "Reflective Base Components".

To the right of each listed Component you'll see a graduating scale "in Ounces" that is based around the "Colorant Amount needed".

For your situation I'd suggest SF 2.5 2.0

When looking across from the "Silver Fire v2.5 hue (Colorant amount in ounces – oz)" the use of 2.0 ounces of the Colorant lists the following amounts of the Reflective Components.

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl ................... 21 Oz.
Liquitex Basics Silver .............................................. 21 Oz.
Behr 1850 UPW Flat ................................................10 Oz.
Liquitex Basics Gold ................................................ 1.75 Oz

Hello.


Sorry...your post must of gotten pushed down toward the bottom and went unnoticed. I tend to get a bit bleary eyed on Saturday nights after 3-4 Micros on top of my Wife's good cookin'. And when my forehead crashes down onto the keyboard....I usually go to my chair and get int "Sleepy Bear" mode.

Thanks for bringing it on........

The amount listed is enough to do up to a 144" diagonal screen of proper technique is used and no "re-do' is required. At 110" to 122" you'll hae several ounced left over, so seal it up in a tight lidded container and save it for any necessary repairs or such.

did you purchase your items? if yes can you mark which one you bought from where?
I am on the same boat also.

I was planning to purchase one from the web but i read a lot about Silver Fire2.5 and decided to go with this path.

I most often use dynamic because on the Epsons...particularly the 65-85-8700s, it's pretty close to being color correct, leastwise it take minimal Calibration to zero it in.

Add to that added advantages of enhanced contrast and deeper colors of "Silver Fire" ("Super" doesn't seem to far of...) delivers a Plasma / LED_LCD like image in controlled lighting, and a extremely serviceable image in what can only be called obscene and crazy amounts of ambient light. Halfway between those points can be awe inspiring.

Dynamic doesn't kill the bulb. Running in "Normal" mode will age the bulb faster than running it in "ECO". All Dynamic does is take the light correcting filter out of the light path. Running the PJ in "Dynamic" combined with "ECO", the bulb will last longer than "Theater" combined with "Normal".