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TC Sounds LMS-R 15" 6 ft^3 ported sub build

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
Hey guys, just finished my sub build biggrin.gif

Box is approx 24x24x26 outer diameter. Powered with a Behringer EP4000 in 4 ohm bridged mono mode. Using miniDSP for eq and crossover. Tuned to 19 hz.


The amplifier:

The driver:

how I cut and measured... not the best way.. lol :

saw:

box half way done, port half built:


Glued all the wood together with gorilla glue, and put #8 2" screws to hold it together. used about 80 screws total for the whole box.

port finished:

~38" long, 3"x12" downfiring slot port.

bracing, kinda bad:
note the pro router job for the cutout biggrin.gif

finished box with veneer, no stain:


Finished product:


1 coat of pre-stain
3 coats of stain
5 coats of clear gloss polyurethane from a can
3 coats of satin polyurethane spray can

went through about 12 pieces of sand paper total between sanding veneer, and every coat of polyurethane.

Used 1 litre of contact cement to attach all the veneer.

I'll post some measurements and stuff when I get it in place and all set up. Let me know what you guys think, it's my first DIY project biggrin.gif

So far from listening to it, I can shake my entire upstairs.
Edited by WagBoss - 2/1/13 at 12:29pm
post #2 of 17
Very nice build. Congrats! smile.gif
post #3 of 17
Nice! How much elevation does the box have for port clearance?
post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Nice! How much elevation does the box have for port clearance?

It's on these. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=240-676

Right now it looks to be about 3/4 inches above the carpet. It's gonna get moved to a hard floor in a week though.
post #5 of 17
The box looks nice.

*edit* port clearence already asked. You beat me to it Jay1
post #6 of 17
That will effect your tuning, and the possibility of port noise. Ideally you should give 3" clearance for a 3" port.
post #7 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber View Post

The box looks nice. What's the height of the box from the ground, meaning, how much air space does the port have?

When I move it in a week to a hard floor it'll be 1 5/16". Right now its probably only 3/4"
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

That will effect your tuning, and the possibility of port noise. Ideally you should give 3" clearance for a 3" port.

really, 3" ? that's high.. Doesn't it just need enough space to disperse all the air?
post #9 of 17
It is now an extension of your port. You will have to run sweeps and measure to figure out the exact effects. Usually with down firing ports a base will be built around the edge of the bottom to elevate without looking funny
post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

It is now an extension of your port. You will have to run sweeps and measure to figure out the exact effects. Usually with down firing ports a base will be built around the edge of the bottom to elevate without looking funny

Hmm, ok. What sort of effects do you think it would have? Just loudness of lower frequencies?

I think what I'll do is just make 4 wooden circles for the pegs to sit in, and they will be 1.5" thick, making the total height 3".
Edited by WagBoss - 8/25/12 at 11:20am
post #11 of 17
Because the bottom of the cab is now a 3/4" slot, my guess is it will lower your tune and increase the chance of chuffing during high output. The only way to really find out is to measure, increase output and measure, repeat. In all likelihood it wont be much of an issue for you, just something to be aware of .
post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Because the bottom of the cab is now a 3/4" slot, my guess is it will lower your tune and increase the chance of chuffing during high output. The only way to really find out is to measure, increase output and measure, repeat. In all likelihood it wont be much of an issue for you, just something to be aware of .

would you say it would be like having 2 0.75 x 12 inch slot ports ? WinISD says tuning changes to 14 hz with that, I don't mind that :P

or 2 0.75 x 20 inch ? that tunes to 16 hz.
post #13 of 17
It's hard to say really, it is at the front of your cabinet too right, and it's not enclosed, plus it's only an addition on the end of your actual port.

Run low frequency signals with REW, the frequency where the woofer is barely moving will be the tuning point.
post #14 of 17
Nice looking box Wagboss. Hopefully my dual opposed will come out that good when I am done.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get and how much did the veneer cost you?
post #15 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigro View Post

Nice looking box Wagboss. Hopefully my dual opposed will come out that good when I am done.
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get and how much did the veneer cost you?

I bought it from Home Depot. It was 30 bucks a roll, each roll was 24"x90". I used like 1.75 rolls. It was 30 bucks for the contact cement to attach it too.
post #16 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by WagBoss View Post

I bought it from Home Depot. It was 30 bucks a roll, each roll was 24"x90". I used like 1.75 rolls. It was 30 bucks for the contact cement to attach it too.

Thanks. I was just going to paint mine, but for another $60 bucks I may just do this.
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigro View Post

Thanks. I was just going to paint mine, but for another $60 bucks I may just do this.

well, its a lot more than 60 and it takes a long time.

Its 60 for veneer alone,

then 30 for contact cement, 15 for stain, 23 for polyurethane, 6 for sand paper.

It takes about 9 hours at least to properly stain, sand, and then put finish on it without dripping or sanding through it. It was fairly tricky, but worth it in the end.

My dad had experience staining and refinishing furniture so he helped me a lot, I would never have been able to do it this nice without his help.
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