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Newbie needs help: repair Rotel or get new receiver and amp and which ones?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
About 8 years ago, I bought a new Rotel 1067 avr but it apparently now has a couple of burned out inputs such that the front speakers no longer play when the TV or blueray is on. (The ancient CD player still plays sound through the speakers so they aren't dead.)

In putting together the home theater system back then, I went with all Vandersteen speakers. The front speakers are 2Ce's, which are 86db, 7 ohm nominal/4 ohm minimum, the rear speakers are bookshelf sized, the subwoofer is a tank (the V2W - 300 watts, class B), and the center channel is also 86db. (I got the Vandies at clearance prices when a local shop went out of business.)

The Rotel was one of those midlife purchases, as in, what the heck. But I don't think the Mrs will let me spend much more than $1200, if that, for a replacement.

The home theater system is in a large room (combo family room/sunroom) maybe 15' by 30'.

Zone 2 goes to the kitchen.

My wife and I listen to music, but not real critically, and watch movies from time to time. We are in our 50s. And we are very tech challenged.

Today, I've done a fair amount of reading and am pretty confused about what my best options are given the tight budget. Plus, I don't understand 99% of the tech speak.

I can call a Rotel authorized repair company to come out and take a look at the Rotel but doubt I'll be able to get a reliable estimate. It's a shame it apparently shot craps but I have noticed that if gets hot. Sometimes very hot. If we play it for more than 2 hours, especially if zone 2 is also being used, the Rotel's fan will come on, although I haven't heard it lately (maybe it died). It sits on the top shelf of a cabinet with less than an inch clearance on the sides but 5" clearance above and a hole in the back. I know, not enough.....

Maybe 3 years ago, the same issue happened (no front speaker sound), and a nephew fixed the problem by plugging the wire into a different input, but there aren't any more to use now.

If the Rotel will cost more than $300 to repair, I probably need to move on and, if so, I've been looking at possibly getting an amp like the Emotiva XPA 5 and pairing that with a mid range Yamaha or Denon if the Emotiva would lead to less heat issues with a new avr receiver and drive the speakers better than an avr alone?

If I got the Emotiva for $900 and last year's midrange Yamaha or Denon receiver on clearance for $400, do you think that would work out well?

Or would I be better off spending $1000-1200 on the best avr available, whatever that might be, and foregoing the amp, hoping the avr power alone is enough to drive the Vandies and won't cause serious heat issues if I give the new receiver more breathing room? The Rotel is 100 watt per channel continuous, but to get any sound out of the speakers while watching TV, we have to turn the volume up to 55 and go from there. For movies, the starting point is around 68, if any of that helps.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
post #2 of 6
Thread Starter 
Did I post this in the wrong forum? If so, any suggestions where I should have posted it? Thanks!
post #3 of 6
Today, it's all good. If you're going get an XPA-5 the ohm rating of the speaker is less of a concern then if using an AVR. You might even see about picking up a pre/pro as opposed to an AVR for if you don't need AM/FM, then I see no reason for an AVR.

If you're going with an AVR to be your pre/pro, a couple of points; for the much needed purpose of analyzing the room, be sure to get a unit with, at minimum, Audyssey MultiEQ XT and second, stating the obvious, be sure the AVR you pickup, has a full set of pre-outs.

Hope the above helps.
post #4 of 6
Doing a quick search on the 1067, looks like it's known to get very hot, regardless of the speakers connected so a different brand AVR may not even require an external amp with your speakers. Note however, with Denon AVRs, the lowest model with pre-outs is the 33XXCI series (ie. 3311CI, 3312CI, 3313CI). Pick up a model with pre-outs (eg. 3312CI on clearance) and wait to add an external amp only if needed. To see a comparison of the features between models, review the Denon AVR-XX12 models in the first few posts of the dedicated Owners thread linked in my sig.
post #5 of 6
FWIW, there are two schools of thought on AVS: one that says add an outboard Amp, for the "obvious" benefits doing so provides and the school which says, most of the time, you don't need an outboard Amp and it's a waste of money. My recommendation is to follow your heart and do what makes you all warm and fuzzy inside.

I'm of an independent studies school of thought that says, in real terms, no matter the household, install two appropriate sized, matching subs, park them next to your mains, pointed to the central main listening position and via your internal LPF, set the main crossover at 120Hz, your sub's filter at 120Hz and let the subs relieve any strain on the AVR's amplifier. And if you feel the system is being strained, ("I need more power Scottie!") at that time and point add an outboard Amp or change your existing speaker set for more efficient or sensitive speakers.

The above is based on, right or wrong, the assumption that one is going be playing their system at what would be considered normally loud levels (taken into consideration, a high wife approval factor) as opposed to reference listening levels. And FWIW, if one doesn't make assumptions, they can't get out of bed in the morning. tongue.gif

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Edited by BeeMan458 - 8/27/12 at 1:38pm
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks a lot guys! Some really good information.

I called a Vandersteen dealer who confirmed that just about any mid-range AVR will drive the speakers just fine. So I don't think I'll need an amp, but having the outputs for one would be nice, if within the boss' budget.....

Meanwhile, I'll take the 50lb receiver into an authorized dealer who says he'll tell me the repair cost to the penny. This outfit has an excellent reputation. But the turnaround time is 3 weeks for the estimate by which time the clearance models may be gone? Oh well.
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