Mr.Tim's 15x27 Theater - Page 6

No problem BllDo. A single GC-100 should be adequate for most theaters.

The only major difference between the ones on the 'bay and some of the other available models is that it only supports one connection. So only one device (ie iPad) can connect at a time.

As long as this is strictly for a theater, one connection is probably fine since you will have only one remote. There are plenty of IR outputs, a serial connection and relay connections (so you can activate screen masking or powered shades etc).

I've been thinking about how to implement mine and so far I think..
-IR to the projector
-IR to the equipment
-IR to the Grafik Eye
-serial to my HAI thermostat so I can control temp and see current temp from tablet

Trying to figure out what I could use the relays for.. If I went with RGB strips (which I am not), the relays could be used to change between colors.


Tim

Just got back from two weeks of vacation in sunny FL. A little rain today, so the shade tree woodworking shop probably won't open today. I have to get down to the theater and regroup.

Tim

Thanks for the info. What wasn't working for you with the old firmware? iRule seems to indicate they support the old firmware, but lack certain functionality like IR Blaster and sensor support. Not sure I need those features, but frankly I had no idea about the firmware until you mentioned it.

I guess I could ship all 3 for ~$100 and still be way ahead of the game. Thanks!

Tim

A little progress (that took a lot of work):



I got both of the Grafik Eyes talking to each other and the GRX-TVI working. The manual for the TVI clearly states there is mechnical relay noise.. do not install where noise is an issue.. They weren't kidding! The on-off clunk is like something out of Frankenstein. Luckily I can just set it to 1% which will keep it on and avoid the clunk other than the initial power-on. It's also in a closet with DD+GG and solid core door, so the noise probably won't even be noticeable.

Right now for zones:

GE1Z1: Screen downlights (4-3" pinhole cans)
GE1Z2: Seating downlights (6-3" cans)
GE1Z3: Speaker accent lights (3-PAR20 lampholders)
GE1Z4: Spare

GE2Z1: Rear downlights (4-3" cans)
GE2Z2: Walkway downlights (3-3" cans)
GE2Z3: Step lights (4- Nora steplights, 1 Progress steplight)
GE2Z4: Soffit lights (LED strip lights via GRX-TVI and Mean Well power supply)

For scenes I can't think of many I would need:

Scene 1 - Cleanup: all ceiling cans on
Scene 2- Entrance: set the lights for people to sit and get ready for the movie
Scene 3- Movie: dim the lights to the appropriate levels for movie viewing
Scene 3- Traffic: movie is still playing, but bring up some of the lights for people to ingress/egress
Scene 4- Intermission: movie is paused, bring up lights a bit more

Still gluing up frames for the columns...

Tim

Funny how they make such a simple thing into a big ordeal to save 50 cents on a socket and a PDIP chip. I have a PIC programmer, but even if you had to mail in and swap chips (or just buy new ones), it would be a lot cheaper for both parties, I'm sure.

I guess they've corrected this with the iTach.

Thanks for the info Nick. I thought there may be a way to use it without upgrading.. as the iRule staff did confirm as much. I just didn't know what functionality was missing.

I haven't tested mine, what are you guys doing to check it? I was thinking crossover cable to the laptop, then wireshark to figure out what IP it's using.

Everything I've read confirms it only supports 1 connection. You need the iTach to support multiple. In my own case I will only need one, so hopefully it will work well.

Tim

edit: I checked all 3 of mine: 2.0.8-12r2
Edited by Mr.Tim - 1/18/13 at 9:22am

I ended up setting my laptop interface to 192.168.1.1, reset the GC-100s and used a crossover cable. My home network runs on 192.168.2.0 so I had to change them.

Tim

I've been a bit under the weather for about a week. I think I've had about every -itis there is, including a nice bout of conjunctivitis on Friday. Meds on board now, so back into the basement, cough be damned!

I had planned to get the second layer of plywood on my last riser this weekend. I only needed a few tubes of GG, so I ordered 4 tubes off the 'bay:


Yeah, that's what I said. Anyway, correct product will be shipped Monday. Last shipment came the day after I ordered it, so not a real big deal. I ended up using the little bit of GG I had left under the walls I built. I'll have to lift the plywood (just tacked with screws right now) and apply the rest after it gets here.



Overall shot of the theater:


You can see the columns I made in the rear corners. I had a heck of a time trying to figure out how to make it work, but I think it will be nice when I'm done. Those 3 seats will be on the back riser eventually, 2 feet off the back wall. Actually there will be six-- I think-- I may go with five. I have to assemble them and see how they fit. Six will be tight.



Better shot of the columns:




Inside the columns:


I routered off the back of the rails/stiles. The plan is to wrap 3/8" plywood with fabric and have the panels held in with panel retainers. That way I can replace the fabric if something happens. Holes will be cut in the 3/8" plywood to allow the speakers to work etc.



Back corner traps:


Not the ideal solution, but I am going to try and use this space as a bass trap. The side framed with 2x4 will be fabric from floor to ceiling. The front will look like the rest of the columns, solid on bottom, fabric on top. Not sure what I should do.. Safe'n'Sound with airspace behind, OC703 with air space.. fill with pink fluffy. Have to take a look at the coefficients and see what works.

For subwooferage.. looks like 2 THT LP's stacked will hide nicely back there. Had originally thought F-20s.. but too tall. Then looked at THT.. but again a bit too high (would be higher than the seats).

Still need to figure out what to do with the top half of that back wall. I know that too much absorption will kill the room.

Tim

Yeah, I used a small flat blade screwdriver. You can stick it between pins 2-7 and twist it gently. The pressure holds it in place while you apply power.

In other news.. I must be making progress... Because I got my fabric samples today:


L-to-R is FR701 Red, FR701 Claret Accent, Anchorage Red Delicious, Anchorage Geranium.

If I decide to spend the $$ on Anchorage, the Geranium (far right) is the winner, imho. If I stick with 701 I'll get the Red (far left).

I have to say that last week I got genuinely angry at how long this is taking.. how much time I could have spent doing other things. I wanted to throw something and stomp off... But to actually see fabric on the horizon is a little encouraging. I ordered 20,000 staples today too

Tim

Red and Geranium are both good matches in person. At this point I am leaning toward the red. Thanks for the input I always like saving a buck.. or two

Tim

I have traps in the corners, but the rest of the walls will be hung panels. They'll be approximately 2x2 and cover the walls in a pattern. Some will be acoustic, others will just be frames+fabric (no insulation) to keep the pattern.

What I'd like to do is measure the room without the wall treatments, then treat/remeasure/tweak/repeat.

I want to make the fabric easily replaceable should something happen (leak, kid damage, etc).

Tim