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Mr.Tim's 15x27 Theater - Page 10

post #271 of 595
Thread Starter 
Started on the crown molding. My nailer had to be 52.5 degrees. The saw only goes to about 48, so I had to get crafty:

IMG_1656.JPG


I used a piece of 1/4 HDF to tweak the 2x4 and give me the 52.5 degree angle. And yes, I know you can rip 45 one way, 7.5 the other, and then rip the top at 7.5 to make it square with the backside. But you see, I'm quite fond of my fingers. I try to avoid dealing with long, tiny pieces. With this rig there is a lot more wood between me and the blade.


And here is what it will look like:

IMG_1658.JPG


The strip lighting will sit on top of the 2x and the crown will hide it.

I went on a fishing expedition for the missing 18-4, but was unable to find it. I either have to get a tone and probe, which may or may not find it. If it does find it, it may or may not be located someplace where I can actually use it. Or I could just just run a new wire. I am leaning towards new wire, which isn't that big of a deal.

Resistors came for my receiver.. but I need the new pencil for my soldering station.

Got a nice big box from Monoprice.. mnnnnn Monoprice.

Tim
post #272 of 595
I'm always bad at working out those miter angles and all that, so I know there's probably a good reason - but, why not 37.5 degrees from the other side? ...or would it be upside down...
post #273 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I'm always bad at working out those miter angles and all that, so I know there's probably a good reason - but, why not 37.5 degrees from the other side? ...or would it be upside down...

It wouldn't be upside down (you'd turn the 2x on edge, rather than on the flat), but the fence would be against the saw blade.


Tim
post #274 of 595
Do work Big Tim.....
post #275 of 595
Thread Starter 
Crown molding is complete! I also got my LED strips installed in the crown. You can see the 2x4 rips that the crown is nailed to:

IMG_1659.JPG



And here it is with the crown installed:

IMG_1661.JPG


For the LED strips I used Hitlights LED Red Flexible LED Ribbon Lighting Strip, 300 LEDs, 3528 Type SMD, 5 Meter or 16.4 Ft, 12 Volt, 24 Watt. I needed 5 reels for the entire theater, which was about $70. I did have to solder some of the cutoffs together for the last 5' piece. Where I had to add leads (not many places, as there is a lead on both end of the reel) I just sanded off the masking and soldered some 18ga wire leads.. then put some heatshrink tubing over the end.

Also, the strips are about 1.5" from the wall and they are 5" down from the ceiling (thought that info may be useful).

I ended up having to snake a new wire to the location where it was missing. Actually, I had to snake it twice. The first try had a dead short somewhere in the cable, so I had to rip that out and pull another one. Not fun.

The power supply hasn't arrived yet, but that ran me $75. I powered the strip off a 12v wall wart I had laying around for the pics.

Tim
post #276 of 595
Nicely done Tim! You've taken the setbacks like a champ - I would have complained ferociously - and kept on pushing. It's looking good. smile.gif
post #277 of 595

Things are starting to come together Tim.  You will be watching movies before you know it.

 

Does one power supply power all of the light strips?

post #278 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Nicely done Tim! You've taken the setbacks like a champ - I would have complained ferociously - and kept on pushing. It's looking good. smile.gif

Thanks Fred smile.gif So close to the end now, it seems like it is getting easier to roll with the punches and just get'r done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Things are starting to come together Tim.  You will be watching movies before you know it.


Does one power supply power all of the light strips?


Yeah, one power supply. I purchased the Mean Well HLG-185H-12B POWER SUPPLY,SWITCHING,ENCLOSED,185 WATT,12VDC@13A,LED,90-305VAC,127-431VDC,IP67, which covers the draw of the strips +20%.

From the power supply I am going to this:

IMG_1662.JPG


Which is just a 12v six ATC fuse automotive fuse panel. I have 6 cables going to the strips (two hots and two neutrals per cable). I'll land the two hots from each cable on a separate fuse.

Tim
post #279 of 595
Hi Tim,

Good info on the LEDs. That is one tank of a power supply!

Are your LEDs gonna be dimmable? If so how?

Nicholas
post #280 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Hi Tim,

Good info on the LEDs. That is one tank of a power supply!

Are your LEDs gonna be dimmable? If so how?

Nicholas

Yeah it was easier to go with one than 5 of the small ones. Total wattage per the manu specs for the 5 reels of LEDs is 121W, but when you figure for voltage drop it's a bit higher. Add in the safety factor and I'm at 180 watts or so.

The LED power supply is dimmable via a 0-10vdc control current. I am controlling that with this:



A Lutron GRX-TVI that is wired to my Grafik Eyes.

Tim
post #281 of 595
Thread Starter 
Haven't updated the thread in a bit, but I have been making decent progress. I got sidetracked replacing every single stitch of brake line in my truck. I started out with one leak, I'd touch another piece of the line, leak would form. Replace line, pump up brake pressure, another line blows. I am not kidding when I say every single piece is now replaced (one painful section at a time). So now I'm back on theater duty.

All of my step lights came in, and I got them all painted black. I am holding off on installing the covers until after the carpet is in. I also got all of the crown done and all of the LED strip installed. My power supply came in and I got it all hooked up:

IMG_1670.JPG



I know some of you were curious about dimming the LEDs, so here's a video of the dimming (sorry, I'm no cinematographer.. there is probably some setting to make it look better):

post #282 of 595
I think they look great!
post #283 of 595

Nice video.  I like the red lighting.  I think it is time for you to take some photos of the entire theater so we can see the layout.

post #284 of 595
This is awesome! I'd written of using LED rope lighting because everything I've read about dimming them. I'll have to read through this again as I get a little closer to wiring up my lighting and see if I can go this route as well. Are the parts to do this expensive? Lutron is generally proud of their stuff, so I would imagine that the GRX-TVI was the most expensive part.
post #285 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Nice video.  I like the red lighting.  I think it is time for you to take some photos of the entire theater so we can see the layout.

I need to do some cleanup and I will take some more pics. Now that the truck is mobile I was able to finally get rid of all the construction debris I had "stored" in the back of it for the past 6 months smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

This is awesome! I'd written of using LED rope lighting because everything I've read about dimming them. I'll have to read through this again as I get a little closer to wiring up my lighting and see if I can go this route as well. Are the parts to do this expensive? Lutron is generally proud of their stuff, so I would imagine that the GRX-TVI was the most expensive part.

The GRX-TVI was $30 shipped off of the 'bay. Yes, it was a good find, but so were the 3106's I got for $200 and $113. It takes some time, but with patience but you can find the TVI cheap. I posted the prices for the strip and power supply back a few posts.

You could also use the ELVI in lieu of the TVI, but this seemed like a more elegant solution.



Tim
post #286 of 595
Thread Starter 
Here's some photos of the leads for the LED strips:

IMG_1665.JPG

Sorry for the quality.. What I am trying to show is the two black leads soldered to the end of the strip where I cut it.


IMG_1668.JPG

Finish it up with a piece of shrinktube (I only had red in that size, it wasn't an attempt at color coordination biggrin.gif )

The connections are pretty resilient. I had to do a little smashy-smashy to get the wires tucked behind the crown.

Tim
post #287 of 595
Do you think youll leave the leds on during a critical movie, or all off? I typically turn all my lights off even the smallest amount of light in room affects image.......

I wasnt aware that LED strips werent dimmable, that complicates my plans frown.gif
post #288 of 595
I've wondered about this as well. I can see where I would like to have a scene with the step lights lit just a bit, and maybe the rope lights dimmed very low when I have other people over to watch a movie. I think if it's just me, I'd be more likely to have all the lights off.

Of course, I say that, and I've never had a dedicated room before. So no lights at all might be a little much.
post #289 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Do you think youll leave the leds on during a critical movie, or all off? I typically turn all my lights off even the smallest amount of light in room affects image.......

I wasnt aware that LED strips werent dimmable, that complicates my plans frown.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I've wondered about this as well. I can see where I would like to have a scene with the step lights lit just a bit, and maybe the rope lights dimmed very low when I have other people over to watch a movie. I think if it's just me, I'd be more likely to have all the lights off.

Of course, I say that, and I've never had a dedicated room before. So no lights at all might be a little much.

I can't say with any certainty how the soffit LEDs will be left when a movie is on. I have plenty of scenes available, so I can program them a few different ways. On the lowest setting the LEDs are not bright at all. I don't think they will be detrimental to the image, but they might be distracting. I will have to wait and see. In my mind's eye the soffit LEDs and the step lights will be on (to some degree) during a movie.

LED strips are dimmable, but not directly from a Grafik Eye. You can dim a magnetic transformer from the GE, but they are expensive-- and I'm not sure how well they work with LEDs. I gave a lot of thought to the soffit lights prior to making my decisions. Going with RGB introduces another controller and I haven't see any big enough to handle all of the strips on the same controller. Going single color eliminates that headache.

Tim
post #290 of 595
Thread Starter 
Built the binary diffusers for the back wall. It uses a MLS pseudorandom binary sequence. I got the sequence from Gearslutz (link graciously provided by Helpful.. er HopefulFred).

It's pretty simple. You can start anywhere in the sequence (I changed my start position so I would have pieces of diffuser at the edges of the panels), a "1" means wood, a "0" means no wood. I used 2" strip of 3/4" plywood as a "1". So if the sequence was 1,0,1,1,0,1,1,1 It was 2" wood, 2" gap, 4" wood, 2" gap, 6" wood.

First I laid out the top and bottom rails according to a drawing I made (same way a frmer lays out the top and bottom plate of a wall):

IMG_1671.JPG



Final result (needs a little trimming, and I need to get bigger mud rings for the receptacles:

IMG_1672.JPG


Tim
post #291 of 595
Very nice work.
post #292 of 595
+1 Awesome! That's going to look really nice!
post #293 of 595
Thumbs up!
post #294 of 595
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys! I forgot to mention that the width of a "1" should be half the wavelength of the frequency you want to focus on diffusing.

If I did the math correctly, a 2" strip would focus at about 3300Hz. I wish I could say I made that decision after hours of room measuring, days of advanced mathematical cyphering and weeks of quiet contemplation. I cannot. In reality I chose 2" because it was an easy number to work with biggrin.gif Consensus on gearslutz was 3" or under was fine.

But for those of you who actually know what they are doing, there you have it wink.gif

Tim
post #295 of 595
Thread Starter 
A lot of progress, but nothing really photo-interesting. I got all of the frames in the rear of the theater assembled and I also got all of the panels that will be inserted in the columns done:

Front view:

IMG_1674.JPG



Rear view:

IMG_1676.JPG


They'll be wrapped in fabric and held in from the rear with panel retainer clips.

Ordered 10' of track light that will illuminate the speakers behind the screen. Starting to put together my final orders for PE and Monoprice. Looking at amps for the subs.. thinking two NU1000 would do the trick for my horns.

Need to order fabric. Was looking as FR701, but I am liking the price over at Acoustimac. Sent them an email to see if the DMD fabric is at least a Class C rating. Their website is kind of misleading.. they say, "all materials are Class A rated" and then they give you fire test results for an acoustical panel wrapped in an unnamed fabric. That's not much help, they could have wrapped it in FR701 for all I know. Heck, they offer their panels in 3 different fabrics, so they should have 3 different test results if they want to certify their panels.

Tim
post #296 of 595

Looking good Tim.  I don't remember - which subs are you using?  Do you have a link to the amp you are looking at?  I am trying to decide which amp to get for my subs.  I posted a question in the amp forum, but got no response.

 

Nick

post #297 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Looking good Tim.  I don't remember - which subs are you using?  Do you have a link to the amp you are looking at?  I am trying to decide which amp to get for my subs.  I posted a question in the amp forum, but got no response.

Nick

Post your question in the DIY speaker section. Those guys can help and tell you what you need to know. What subs do you have?
post #298 of 595
Thread Starter 
Yeah, the DIY Subs and Speakers forum is really helpful as far as that goes. No question goes unanswered, that's for sure.

Right now I am planned for two of lilmike's F-20's and two of BFM's Tuba HT LP. Mike has recommended something like the NU1000 for the F-20's.

If you're going with sealed subs you're probably going to want something more powerful. For the horns, a small amp works well.

Tim
post #299 of 595
Thread Starter 
Made some progress today. Didn't do any actual work, but ordered a lot of stuff I need to start wrapping up the theater. XLR cables from monoprice.. speakon connectors from PE.. Picked up a DCX2496.. panel retainer clips for the columns.

Almost ready to drop a dime on some amps. I keep flip-flopping on the subs I am going to use.. Not sure whether to build some ported boxes and try to get the extension below 20Hz or just go with a tried and true horn design. When I know what subs I'm using I'll finalize the amps.

I had a chance to try REW for the first time. I measured the F-20 I built:



Now, you can't really trust the SPL.. because I don't really know how to set it up properly to get a true SPL reading at reference. However, it's remarkably flat.

At 22.5Hz s-it got real. I can't imagine these guys pushing high SPL at 10Hz.

Tim
post #300 of 595
Was that measured at your prime seat? looks pretty good! wink.gif

I would have said that ported was not the way to get lower extension. I would have said that most ported designs require HPF around 20(ish) Hz to avoid over-excursion of the cone at low frequencies. not true?
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