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Mr.Tim's 15x27 Theater - Page 14

post #391 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I see the folding theater seats in the back row- and the plan is to have nicer furniture seats in the first row ? Have you picked them out yet ?

It's been over a week BTW... Where is our update ?

Yeah, the plan is to have nicer seating in the first and second row. Leaning towards 3 in the front |o|o|o| and 4 in the second row |o|oo|o|

Also considering two |o|o| and three |o|o|o|

As for which type.. probably some low end seatcraft.

Tim
post #392 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Yeah, the plan is to have nicer seating in the first and second row. Leaning towards 3 in the front |o|o|o| and 4 in the second row |o|oo|o|

Also considering two |o|o| and three |o|o|o|

As for which type.. probably some low end seatcraft.

Tim

Hey, we went Seatcraft Eros in our theater. Sure not is nice as other stuff, but for the price it is actually pretty decent.
We went two rows like this:
|o|oo|o|
|o|oo|o|

Worked out well and any issues we had were handled promptly and to my satisfaction completely. I just wish that the backs were a touch taller and the leg rests were longer, but again, for something that gets used just a couple of times a week, it is still really good. We wanted their 5131 line, but they had them, went out of stock quickly, and then were unable to get any more for like 6 months. It looks like those are in stock again now, or for a few bucks more per seat, you could go to a number of different models that weren't priced as competitively as the deal I got about 15 months ago when we bought ours.

Good luck and great progress on the theater.
post #393 of 595
Thread Starter 
It's been a week. Not much progress in the theater. I did hang the equipment room door and got the hidden latch situated. That thing was a PITA.

I have been working on my Stentorians, as you know if you've been following that thread.

Here's an exclusive photo of a secret project I'm finishing up:

IMG_1754.JPG

Hint:

You can never have too many [_____].


Tim
post #394 of 595
Bungholes?? :-)
post #395 of 595
I was going to say beers. But that's not beer.

In this context, I'd personally say you can never have too many subwoofers or bass traps, but I can't see any of that in that picture. That bit in the middle looks like a mount for something, but I can't make that make sense in my head. Is that a seat shaker or something? Don't those look like that?
post #396 of 595
Is that a Speakon connector ? I'm pretty sure it is ... so you can never have too many ... channels ???

Cheers,
post #397 of 595
Looks like a router jig to cut out that hole. I know that doesn't answer the question, but I think the secret is the board below. Why would it be pre painted Though?


Don't mind me... Just talking out loud to myself.

I'm guessing a sub.
post #398 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Bungholes?? :-)

I'd hate to see your bathroom smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I was going to say beers. But that's not beer.

In this context, I'd personally say you can never have too many subwoofers or bass traps, but I can't see any of that in that picture. That bit in the middle looks like a mount for something, but I can't make that make sense in my head. Is that a seat shaker or something? Don't those look like that?


Is that your final answer? biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M View Post

Is that a Speakon connector ? I'm pretty sure it is ... so you can never have too many ... channels ???

Cheers,


[Alex Trebek]That was not the answer we were looking for.... but... yes! our judges will accept that answer[/Alex Trebek]

(yes, that is a speakon!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Looks like a router jig to cut out that hole. I know that doesn't answer the question, but I think the secret is the board below. Why would it be pre painted Though?


Don't mind me... Just talking out loud to myself.

I'm guessing a sub.


We have a winner! Yes, I made two 3cuft sealed enclosures for some MFW-15's I picked up from another avs member. That's a jig to flush mount the speakon connector, pictured to the left of the recess I just finished.

I will be going against all reasonable advice and trying to mix sealed and horns. Looking at the phase transfer graphs I think I should be ok if I LPF them at 30Hz. These would be for filling in the low end. Measurements will tell me if I'm wrong.

Tim
post #399 of 595
I'm anxious to hear how this goes. I was considering a couple DTS-10's and then some sealed subs for smoothing at one time, but was warned not to do it. It can be done, Bonedoc did this very thing in his theater, but he mentioned that it required some DSP wizardry by Erskine et al to get everything integrated.

Take lots of notes! I'd like to follow in your footsteps if it works out well smile.gif
post #400 of 595
Thread Starter 
Add another day to the sub build..

The cheap $%^t plywood ($60/sheet furniture birch) I used developed a bubble in the birch veneer. I had to cut out a 1x1 square and fill it. Filler should be dry tomorrow.. Sand and back to step 1 of the painting process.

Tim
post #401 of 595
Pics ?

You know we love pictures. biggrin.gif
post #402 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Pics ?

You know we love pictures. biggrin.gif

Alright, you asked for them.. but they're really not exciting:

IMG_1756.JPG

I used 2-part epoxy with filler. I had originally cut a smaller hole and used wood putty.. but the delamination either spread or I just didn't cut enough out. I figured the 2-part would soak in a bit and keep the surrounding veneer from raising.

That was the second coat of black.. but now I have to sand the filler down ad start over with what is essentially coat #1 of black.

Tim
post #403 of 595
That cheap imported "furniture birch" sucks really hard. I bought eight sheets of it for about $35 each. Six down, two to go. I'd chop it up and burn it in the wood stove next winter but the EPA would probably haul my @$$ to Gitmo for contributing to global something or other.
post #404 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

That cheap imported "furniture birch" sucks really hard. I bought eight sheets of it for about $35 each. Six down, two to go. I'd chop it up and burn it in the wood stove next winter but the EPA would probably haul my @$$ to Gitmo for contributing to global something or other.

I agree wholeheartedly. The sad part is that I purchased the plywood from the local building supply... not some big box store.

When I ripped it in half lengthwise, there was a void the entire length of the sheet. I guess that's why this doesn't really surprise me.

I've already complained that this plywood is 5-ply crap for $60. They offered me another sheet, but that would only give me two piles of steaming $%^t. Hopefully purchasing will deal with somebody else. I'm shocked that contractors are actually using this stuff. I can't be the only person who know what good plywood should look like.

Tim
post #405 of 595
My lumber dealer warned me that the stuff wasn't the greatest. They told me it had a lot of warp, which I figured was ok for well braced speaker cabs (I have lots of clamps). The worst drawback is the face veneer glue does not stick. You can peel the veneer off in big sheets. I've done dado joints everywhere to remove the face veneer and it's worked alright.
post #406 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

My lumber dealer warned me that the stuff wasn't the greatest. They told me it had a lot of warp, which I figured was ok for well braced speaker cabs (I have lots of clamps). The worst drawback is the face veneer glue does not stick. You can peel the veneer off in big sheets. I've done dado joints everywhere to remove the face veneer and it's worked alright.

Yup, that looks like the same stuff. Every other ply is some weird type of wood that doesn't route well.. it just tears.

On the theater front... I got all of the doors trimmed and re-hung. No more rubbing on the carpet. They all needed about 1/8-1/4" removed.

I also got the doorknob installed in the main door. I was going to get a nice Baldwin set to match the rest of the house, but it was $180 (satin nickel on the outside, satin black on the inside. So instead I got a commercial leverset to match my mechanical room door. The mechanical room is UL rated 2-hour (UL door, door buck, hinges and leverset), so that never matched anything else. Well, now it matches something smile.gif It's a Hager leverset with the higher ANSI rating. Nice solid feeling and good action:

IMG_1760.JPGIMG_1761.JPG



I also got the rear fabric panels reinstalled after the carpet. I got some of the banana plugs and the RCA for future sub terminated. Then I ran out of quickport decora inserts (HTH did that happen??). So I couldn't finish that. I bought the solderable banana jack keystones from Monoprice in white. What a PITA. I had to disassemble them to paint them black, then solder them and reassemble. There is no way you could solder those while they are tight on the plastic keystone. They would melt in an instant. And the banana jack has this annoying little nub you're supposed to solder too. Fine if you're using 18ga. Not so fine with 12ga. Major pain. I would definitely buy a different brand in black with a better soldering point:

IMG_1762.JPG



I got the rear surrounds installed. I've worried about the placement versus the 4" recessed lights.. but I think it worked out pretty good. I like the shadow line across the front of them. Well, I more than like it.. I think it's pretty badass as far as that goes:

IMG_1766.JPG



I also got 2 full wet coats of lacquer in the sealed subs. One side was a little too wet and I got some runs. There's a fine line between "full wet" and "too f-in wet":

IMG_1759.JPG


Tim
post #407 of 595

Wow!!  Looking good.  You will be watching movies in no time.  

 

I fully understand about the door know.  I bought one for the thicker door.  I really wanted one with a lock, but couldn't justify the much higher price.

 

What's left on the list?

post #408 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Wow!!  Looking good.  You will be watching movies in no time.  

I fully understand about the door know.  I bought one for the thicker door.  I really wanted one with a lock, but couldn't justify the much higher price.

What's left on the list?

The leverset was not bad at all. I sourced it from Home Depot online. It was $50 shipped. That was a major part of going that route versus a Baldwin to match the rest of the house.

On the list.. finish the neverending speaker assembly.. I still have to poly the Stentorians (LCR) and assemble them. Poly the second F20. Finish the lacquer on the sealed subs.

Install roller catches on the removable column panels.

Finish the screen wall treatments and fabric.

Build the screen.

Lower the projector 3/4" (yes, 3/4 of an inch, doh!)

Build the fabric wall panels. I'm not sure how many or what size yet.

Get the Global Cache set up and iRule configured on my tablet.
post #409 of 595

I'm curious about why you need to lower the projector 3/4".  Did you do some tests and need to adjust the height?

post #410 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

I'm curious about why you need to lower the projector 3/4".  Did you do some tests and need to adjust the height?

Yeah, I have the PJ hung.. There's no lens shift so I am limited by the top of the image being obstructed by the soffit. If I tilt down the image is below the bottom of the screen.

I am at the absolute limit of the zoom lens (zoomed out), so I can't make the image smaller. My math says 3/4" should fix it.

Tim
post #411 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

-Install thermostat
-Tie smoke alarm into FACP
-Wire last step light to GE
-Trim the doors.. again
-Finish the sound gaskets at the closet doors
-Mount the projector
-Stuff the rear columns/bass traps with fluffy fiberglass
-Re-install the rear fabric panels with velcro
-Finish the roller catches to hold all of the removable column pieces
-Touch up the nosings where scratched/chipped
-Install fabric on the screen wall fabric panels
-Build the screen frame and install spandex
-Terminate all the network and coax at the rack
-Bolt the stadium seating to the floor
-Install the buttkickers in the riser
-Install the speakers
-Install the equipment into the rack
-Party
Tim, I bet you've been holding out on us.
post #412 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Tim, I bet you've been holding out on us.

Maybe a little.. Finished up my second F-20 and got both measured (see F-20 link in my sig). Just sprayed a coat of lacquer on the 3 Stens. Hopefully they will be ready for assembly tomorrow.

The got seats assembled and bolted down.
Needed to add a step light to the GE. The cable connectors were at listed capacity. Being the code guy I am.. disassembled the GE, added junction box.. in process of rewiring.
Finished the bass trap up front.
Stuffed one bass trap in rear. Ran out of insulation.
Trimmed the doors and re-hung.
Messed around with door seals. Decided not to mess around with door seals.
Rear fabric panels re-installed and wires terminated.

Sidetracked helping a friend pre-wire his new home. Will try to take pic of craziness over there. I thought I had a lot of wire in my home... Apparently not.

Tim
post #413 of 595
Still no screen, though, huh? That was the one I was hoping for.

And for the record, that sounds like about a month's worth of progress to me - so, well done, sir.
post #414 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Still no screen, though, huh? That was the one I was hoping for.

And for the record, that sounds like about a month's worth of progress to me - so, well done, sir.

I have the lumber for the screen. I am hoping to get that done tomorrow. I really need to get the F-20's in position prior to screen installation.. there is no way I can do it myself without damaging something, so I will have to find an extra set of hands if I am gonna get the screen hung.

Thanks for the kudos. Every time I feel like slowing down I think, "no way Nick is gonna finish first!" smile.gif

Tim
post #415 of 595
How much does your F20 weight ??>
post #416 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Thanks for the kudos. Every time I feel like slowing down I think, "no way Nick is gonna finish first!" smile.gif

Tim

Hey! I heard that!!
post #417 of 595
Tim,

I am sure you wrote it somewhere already but can you tell me where you got your theater chairs from? I have been thinking about using theater seats like that in my rear row so I can stuff a few more people in there.
post #418 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

How much does your F20 weight ??>

Not exactly sure, but heavy enough that I bought a hand truck to move it. I would say it is every bit of 200lbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Hey! I heard that!!

Just trying to give you a little motivation!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Tim,

I am sure you wrote it somewhere already but can you tell me where you got your theater chairs from? I have been thinking about using theater seats like that in my rear row so I can stuff a few more people in there.

They were excess from a school that redesigned their auditorium. I lucked out. I have seen seats like those on craigslist several times. That is probably your best bet.

Tim
post #419 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Good progress today. Routing.

Routed the rails and stiles for my wainscoting:
IMG_1275.JPG


However, I did get my router table assembled, so the day was not a total waste:
IMG_1274.JPG

It's a Rockler table/plate/fence, Triton 3-1/4HP router and cabinet by yours truly. I'm dado'd for a shelf, but I didn't cut it yet.. I figured I may have a piece of scrap at some point (ya think??).


Tim

How much was this router top? Would you reccomend it? I am weighing buying one versus building one. I would need a adapter plate or top that allows for easy fence options and raising and lowering bits though... Your solution seems like a good option.
post #420 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

How much was this router top? Would you reccomend it? I am weighing buying one versus building one. I would need a adapter plate or top that allows for easy fence options and raising and lowering bits though... Your solution seems like a good option.

I wouldn't bother making one. For $200 you get the table, fence and plate, which includes the aluminum tracks for mounting other accessories.

If you go with most routers you will need the lift. If you go with the Triton, which is more expensive, no lift required. The Triton is a beast. When you raise it all the way up, the spindle locks in place so you can remove the bits with 1 wrench.. that's really nice.

Tim
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