or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Mr.Tim's 15x27 Theater - Page 15

post #421 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I wouldn't bother making one. For $200 you get the table, fence and plate, which includes the aluminum tracks for mounting other accessories.

If you go with most routers you will need the lift. If you go with the Triton, which is more expensive, no lift required. The Triton is a beast. When you raise it all the way up, the spindle locks in place so you can remove the bits with 1 wrench.. that's really nice.

Tim

Your saying buy the premade top for $200 ? or buy a whole router table for $200 ?

Links ?
post #422 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Your saying buy the premade top for $200 ? or buy a whole router table for $200 ?

Links ?

Router table+fence+plate: Here.
Router I used: Here.

Tim
post #423 of 595
Thanks !

I actually have two routers. But my table top style table has disappeared. It's actually my dads since I stole it from him, but nonetheless it's the table that's missing.

I've been asking my dad and brother for weeks and both claim they don't have it.

I'm considering just buying one, or building a more pro style table that's bigger. I was thinking if I build it then I might be cheaper. But that assumption proves wrong. Many of the tops seems just as expensive.

I'm trying figure out best way to get this done affordable. I'd like a bigger top, that I could put on saw horses but also move and set up somewhere else or store it. Something like a bigger sheet on saw horses with a MFG made router top plate with mounting, guides, fences- or, 100% homemade. I'd like a high fence that's adjustable. A dual side adjustable would be ultra sweet. smile.gif. Of coarse I need a guide and a router mount plate. Mounting is confusing me because none I am seeing are very clear on how they mount and adjust router bit height.

How easy is it to adjust the router bit height on yours ? Would it accept a large bit like to do raised panel cabinet doors ?

Is there some quality or feature in these $200 tops that makes them worth $200 or something that I might have trouble duplicating if I went DIY ?
post #424 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Thanks !

I actually have two routers. But my table top style table has disappeared. It's actually my dads since I stole it from him, but nonetheless it's the table that's missing.

I've been asking my dad and brother for weeks and both claim they don't have it.

I'm considering just buying one, or building a more pro style table that's bigger. I was thinking if I build it then I might be cheaper. But that assumption proves wrong. Many of the tops seems just as expensive.

I'm trying figure out best way to get this done affordable. I'd like a bigger top, that I could put on saw horses but also move and set up somewhere else or store it. Something like a bigger sheet on saw horses with a MFG made router top plate with mounting, guides, fences- or, 100% homemade. I'd like a high fence that's adjustable. A dual side adjustable would be ultra sweet. smile.gif. Of coarse I need a guide and a router mount plate. Mounting is confusing me because none I am seeing are very clear on how they mount and adjust router bit height.

How easy is it to adjust the router bit height on yours ? Would it accept a large bit like to do raised panel cabinet doors ?

Is there some quality or feature in these $200 tops that makes them worth $200 or something that I might have trouble duplicating if I went DIY ?

I thought about building one, but I don't think it would be worth the effort. Maybe if you had a piece of laminate countertop you could re-purpose it would be worth it.

The Rockler table is at least an inch thick and already covered with phenolic. It also has the track in the top to accommodate a featherboard or sliding jig. The fence is adjustable and also has the extruded channel on top for accessories. Yes, a taller fence would be nice. I was looking at the one Rockler sells but I have been able to survive without it. There are screws built into the table to level the router plate. They are low tech, but they get the job done. It's nice having a perfectly flat surface to run stock across.

When you take into account all of the little features (plus the time to actually make it), the $200 seemed like a wise investment to me.

I built the base for mine out of 3/4" ply. I secured cleats to the bottom of the router top. Having it in two pieces makes it really easy to carry up and down the basement stairs. THe top just drops right in; no screws required. I can also flip it over to blow it out and clean up. I am extremely pleased.

The Triton has a very sensitive adjustment for the height. Is it Incra-one-bazillionth-of-an-inch-accurate? No, but it is more accurate than the thickness of your stock. I never once thought, "man, I wish this was more accurate". Now consider that just the Incra lift costs more than my router+integrated lift.

The router will accommodate large raised panel its, but you will need the set of inserts for the router plate. The one that comes with it will only allow a smaller bit (maybe 1"). That being said, the raised panel bits are really geared towards a shaper... I wouldn't use one unless I was just making one or two panels. Trying to make a whole kitchen would probably end up in disaster one way or the other.

Tim
post #425 of 595
Is it a dual side adjustable fence? Can you stop once you start to hit the other side and adjust that Independently ?
post #426 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Is it a dual side adjustable fence? Can you stop once you start to hit the other side and adjust that Independently ?

No, it's a single fence. A solid piece of aluminum on the back, but the front is two pieces of phenolic. They do make shims for the fence, for situations such as if you were going to use it as an edge planer.

In other news.. I got the GE wired up again. I swapped the bulbs in my step lights with red bulbs.

DSC_0072.JPG


Took another shot of the ceiling while I was at it:

DSC_0073.JPG

Tim
post #427 of 595

The ceiling lights look great.  I barely get any light out of my red LED rope lights.  I wish mine were half that bright.

post #428 of 595
Tim,
Which LED rope or tape are you using?
post #429 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Tim,
Which LED rope or tape are you using?

I believe this post discusses his lighting setup.
post #430 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

The ceiling lights look great.  I barely get any light out of my red LED rope lights.  I wish mine were half that bright.

I'm very happy with the LEDs. That picture is over-exposed, but there is definitely no shortage of red light when they're on. Before I took that picture I sat in one of the seats and just took in the whole room. They cast just enough light that you can make out the risers and other room details. I think I will try leaving them on during a movie. Things may change after 10 minutes when your eyes fully adjust.

Tim
post #431 of 595
Mr. Tim, how did you curve the crown molding around the front of your soffit (I assume the crown follows the curve, anyway)? For a vertical board, I would just cut some grooves in the back to help it flex, but crown would have to bend along an edge. I haven't done that before, and I know that rubber molding is EXPENSIVE!
post #432 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Mr. Tim, how did you curve the crown molding around the front of your soffit (I assume the crown follows the curve, anyway)? For a vertical board, I would just cut some grooves in the back to help it flex, but crown would have to bend along an edge. I haven't done that before, and I know that rubber molding is EXPENSIVE!

Way ahead of you, my friend. I curved the BACK of the soffit, which does not get any crown molding. The front is straight. I've dealt with curved moldings before and aside from the rubber, it's a PITA. Flat moldings are not too bad, but when you get into a crown the molding is on an angle.

You can kind of see it here:

IMG_1244.JPG

Tim

edit: better picture in next post down vvvvvv
Edited by Mr.Tim - 7/26/13 at 2:24pm
post #433 of 595
Tim are you not going to drywall that front wall?
post #434 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Tim are you not going to drywall that front wall?

No, that wall is the absorption for the front of the room. It's really just there to hold the roxul spaced off the drywall. Behind the roxul is a double-stud wall with 1/2+GG+5/8 on both sides.

Here's what it looks like right now. I just started putting fabric over it:

DSC_0074.JPG


DSC_0075.JPG

3-1/2" of roxul space off the back wall, 3-1/2" roxul at the ceiling (need to cut a piece to finish up) and 12" of fluffy in the corners with a little bit of and air space behind.

Tim
post #435 of 595
Wow! That's some serious absorption.
post #436 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Way ahead of you, my friend. I curved the BACK of the soffit, which does not get any crown molding. The front is straight. I've dealt with curved moldings before and aside from the rubber, it's a PITA. Flat moldings are not too bad, but when you get into a crown the molding is on an angle.
...........

Thanks! That's almost not fair, BTW smile.gif
post #437 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Wow! That's some serious absorption.

It seems like a lot, but it's not much more than OC703 or 1" insulshield. Safe'n'Sound is flatter in the high frequencies.
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Thanks! That's almost not fair, BTW smile.gif

One of the reasons I did it that way was to conceal the recessed lights that illuminate the screen. You can't see the cans at all from the 2nd and 3rd rows. You can barely see them from the front row. It's a neat effect.

Tim
post #438 of 595
That's kind of a cool setup. It's like an anit-soffit. I guess it could help with light reflecting off the screen during movies too?
post #439 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xjagox View Post

That's kind of a cool setup. It's like an anit-soffit. I guess it could help with light reflecting off the screen during movies too?

"Anti-soffit".. I like it biggrin.gif

I never thought about it, but I think it probably would catch some of the relections. I'll have ~4 shadow box on the bottom and sides of the screen to catch the light, nothing on top except the soffit.

Tim
post #440 of 595
Thread Starter 
Mini-update. Got the LCR Sten's sanded and buffed.

I also got the two sealed subs buffed (was assembling them tonight but ran into h-nut issues (I freakin hate h-nuts.. why do I keep using them)), so there's no sealed goodness to listen to tonight.

I documented the piano black finish process here.

Tim
post #441 of 595
Nice job Tim and thanks for the link on your piano gloss finish technique. I've bookmarked it for future reference. It's easy to see how practice and experience have a direct correlation to the quality of the finished product. For what it's worth, I think you did a bang-up job!
post #442 of 595
Tim, I looked on DIY sound and I don't see a kit for the Stens. Can you share the details? Also what kit did you use for the subs?
post #443 of 595
Great, that makes you one more step ahead. wink.gif

The finish looks fantastic.
post #444 of 595
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Nice job Tim and thanks for the link on your piano gloss finish technique. I've bookmarked it for future reference. It's easy to see how practice and experience have a direct correlation to the quality of the finished product. For what it's worth, I think you did a bang-up job!

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Tim, I looked on DIY sound and I don't see a kit for the Stens. Can you share the details? Also what kit did you use for the subs?

DIY doesn't have a kit for them. You may be able to buy just the front baffle. You have to build the carcass yourself. The Aura drivers have also been discontinued, so unless you have a case of them you will be paying more and likely sourcing from multiple places. You can see the design at speakerdesignworks.com.

As for the subs, again I built them from scratch. The MFW is another ubiquitous driver that has been discontinued. I picked 2 of them up from a fellow AVSer. There are plenty around if you keep your eyes open for them. 3 cu.ft is what has been proven to work, so I went with dimensions others have used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Great, that makes you one more step ahead. wink.gif

The finish looks fantastic.

Thanks, Nick!

Tim
post #445 of 595
Thread Starter 
A little bit of an update to keep the pressure on Nick.

I scheduled the seating for delivery Monday.

I spent last night muscling the F-20's behind the screen wall. I had to remove one of the studs under the bottom of the screen window so I could slide the F-20 in. Then I found the height of the Speakon connector is the same height as the bottom of the screen. There was no way to connect it. So I slid it out and flipped it so the speakon faces the front wall. Now I just have to fit my hand in there to connect it.

The second F-20 is upside down (so one F-20 is firing at floor level and the other at 5' above te floor), so the speakon worked well for that one. Surprisingly, I managed to get them installed without damaging the stage. OTOH, I beat the crap out of the F-20s.. dings and scratches aplenty. Oh well, glad I didn't spend much time on the finish, but disappointed I spent ANY time on the finish biggrin.gif

I unbolted the seats and installed bigger bolts. I wasn't comfortable with the original bolts.

Started wiring the Stens and laying out the crossover. AFter doing the 4 Sten II's, it's lost it's novelty. Theres a lot of screws in a Stentorian.

Otherwise, the same little items continue to linger. I have many roller catches to install on the columns. I have to pick up some more insulation for the bass traps in the rear.

Realized the step light I have embedded in the concrete stairs takes an intermediate sized bulb (not a standard base, not a candelabra base, apparently there is another size between these two), so I will have to order a bulb for that. Need to connect thermostat and smoke detector.. drop the projector.. finish the door seals. Finish the fabric on the screen wall... build the screen.

Tim
post #446 of 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

A little bit of an update to keep the pressure on Nick.

Realized the step light I have embedded in the concrete stairs takes an intermediate sized bulb (not a standard base, not a candelabra base, apparently there is another size between these two), so I will have to order a bulb for that. Need to connect thermostat and smoke detector.. drop the projector.. finish the door seals. Finish the fabric on the screen wall... build the screen.

Tim

 

No need to provide an update to keep the pressure on - I'm feeling it regardless.

 

Remember - the theater isn't "done" until that bulb is installed.  With any luck you will have everything else done, but won't be able to find the bulb biggrin.gif.

post #447 of 595
post #448 of 595
www.donsbulbs.com

best cross-reference and search I've seen.
post #449 of 595
Thread Starter 
I found them.. I can get 7w Christmas lights that will fit in the base. 1000bulbs FTW.

Spent the past 4 hours getting the 3 crossovers wired and finishing up one of the Stentorians. There's a lot of work in installing 7 drivers per speaker.

The binding posts I got from PE are 10mm.. terrific. I have a 10mm socket but no open end wrench. That was fun.

Not sure if I am going to work on Stentorian #2 or meander off into another corner of the theater.

IMG_1785.JPG

Tim
post #450 of 595
Thread Starter 
Say hello to my leetle friends:

IMG_1788.JPG

Can't wait to try this out. Two BK's at 950w each. The platform was built on vibration isolators so hopefully the riser will rockin and rollin.

Tim
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home