I'm still not so sure taking the headset apart was a good idea, but everything I did is fully reversible and should not leave a trace. I have watched about 2x 1hr of videos with it since and didn't experience the eyestrain I had with the original set, but I really didn't test for very long with the headset so maybe it was just me... I'll try my friend's T1 for some time again when I get a chance and decide whether I put it back in or if I was right.
The wires and plugs for the little audio jack PCB, the "headset is being worn" sensor and the front LED are insanely fine and fragile, but once you've been careful enough to unplug them you don't need to worry about them anymore (I left all these things in the original headset, and put a little removeable metal piece in the detector plug to short it). The main video cable is very robust, it has the same plug in the headset than on the processor unit side. The one thing that needs to be well protected is the fragile flat cable for the buttons.
The DC-DC converter looks good but it's a little too weak to my liking... supposed to be a 3A design but I find it heats up a lot, and tends to shut down quite early when the input voltage sags, or do weird things like powering the headset fine if I use the battery from full to empty, but not wanting to restart if I turn it off mid way and try to turn it on again (controller tries to turn on, but shots off again). I don't want to risk damaging the T2 with bad power so took it out for now.
I ordered a Castle Creations BEC unit that also has programmable output so I can set it at 5.6V, and it should be good for 7A. I intend to power the HDMI converter and video receiver with it too, those will be velcro'd on the controller box with neat wiring once in final configuration.
I've also put the original PSU back in after confirming it didn't have trouble with voltage being present at its output when it's not powered, I'll put the BEC in parallel so I'll be able to just plug the mains cord in when at home and use the battery when at the field without difficulties.
That's a big and expensive converter you got - seen that one but dismissed it for now, both my friend and I ordered other different $50 converters (http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/254552581.html
for me, http://www.ebay.com/itm/RCA-Composite-S-video-Audio-Video-AV-To-HDMI-Scaler-Converter-Switch-Box-/190699548829?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2c6694309d
for him). Hopefully one of these works, but if it really takes yours then we'll go with it... at least we'll have tried 5 different units by then
It will be a bulky setup which I usually don't like, but if there can be a single unit with the controller box, HDMI converter, receiver, battery where I just need to plug the headset cable and turn on it will be acceptable. I've tried so many setups from the AIO goggles with integrated receiver and headtracker where just a single cable to the radio was enough for power and headtracker signal to my bulky PLM-S700 through Fatshark goggles with receiver taped on them... But always found the all in one or "convenient" solutions to lack on some aspect. For example the AIOs have a pretty good picture but the headtracker is bad, their receiver is not that sensitive, and adding external ones would remove the advantage. So if you have to do that, why not just take the by-then-best S700s, and I made myself a "pack" as well
Oh and by the way, the open source head tracker
has been added to my cap, and I've done a first flight using an Acer W700 + USB capture device as "HDMI converter" yesterday, with a "safe" platform for now (Naza-based quad) as I don't like PCs in the critical chain. The image in the T2 is insanely huge, not only the FOV is great but I was using a GoPro which outputs a letterboxed image, which with usual FPV goggles makes you lose screen real estate - but the T2 has the big advantage of having a "zoom" mode to crop the bars out
The downside is that the displayed image is rather low resolution, at least with a GoPro. I tried a few things on the bench, notably the GoPro and another small HD camera of mine, both output rather "blocky" video when blown up that big. Taking a good old fashioned DV camera's output through the same chain looks much better, so I guess camera choice will be important for the best experience. 4/3 image still looks great and big. But the HDMI converter will have some influence there too, so let's wait...Edited by Kilrah - 8/13/13 at 12:51am