As Pete said, we got quite a bit done this weekend, and had some fairly major changes. Without further ado, here's a recap of what I remember.
Picked up a 5/8" roundover bit to use along the top and bottom baffle edges. We also did a 1/4" roundover on all the box edges to allow for easy placement of the leg supports. This is pre-sanding.
To be on the safe side, Pete thought it was a good idea to glue in a little extra meat for the driver screws to hold on to.
It's probably unnecessary, but it pays to attend to those details.
Made a couple of mockups to test the Duratex finish. This is one coat on a sample roundover.
And one coat on a sample corner that we clamped a piece of wood against (in the background) to simulate the leg supports. We wanted to see how the Duratex would do when rolled up against a masked corner.
So, then it was time to build the leg supports. We've radically changed plans from the original idea of using angle steel + weldments to support the feet. That's just too complicated and, while it might save a little width, will be more expensive than the solution Pete offered: make oak table-style legs as supports for the box. As you'll see later, this was a good call.
We planed and ripped a bunch of strips of solid oak, then used the jointer saw to give flat edges that could be glued. We considered using biscuits, but the one mockup was unremarkable. The method we settled in on worked just as well. First we chose the best outer sides from the available pieces, then glued all leg supports individually on top of four clamps.
Don't forget to beat them all flush after partially-tightening the clamps!
Line them up against a flat, square surface such as a table saw's fence, with some paper to protect it from the glue.Then apply the top three clamps and hope it all worked out.
Turned out fine, then we cut a bunch of the leg inserts using a similar method, but this time with wax paper in between to keep each leg support separated.
Pete got them all flat on the jointer, cut them to length, then sanded them down.
I cut and glued the other inner cross bracing from some mockup scraps of Chi-ply. Then I routered out the hole for the terminal cups on the bottom back side of each. Tip: measure twice, cut once. I fell 1/2" short on my first measurement. Then, I didn't realize that the terminal cups are slightly flared, so the actual cutout size is 2-11/16", not 2-5/8". No harm done - it all worked out fine.
Then I sanded down the roundovers and knocked any remaining corners/burrs off while Pete fixed up the leg supports. I'll let him describe how he accomplished this feat, but here are a few pictures of what will be the nearly finished product.
The new idea for the legs and the table top is shown here. Wooden leg supports with a threaded insert on top to accommodate screwing down the table top (or stacking).
Here you can see 1/4 of the table top mockup. We'll cut out a 1/4 rabbet and inset a piece of tempered glass when the whole table top is built.
All exposed corners of the leg supports and the table top will get 1/4" roundovers as seen in this mockup.
These are the leg supports. Pete will have to describe how he did the cutout and fitting to the roundover. It works really well! View 1:
And the other side.
And a mockup of the final thing without the table top. These are gonna be sharp!
Last but not least, another panorama of the mess in the shop. Yeah, I'm a big nerd too.