MITSUBISHI HC5, new 3D SXRD projector based on HC9000 2500 euros - Page 3

Damn it.... have you other owners noticed any light leakage? We watched the first whole movie with my son yesterday (latest Harry Potter) and only now I noticed a HUGE like leakage at the lower left corner and the higher right corner. Did some testing after movie (smaller zoom, moving pic with lens shift etc) but not a smallest change. Just my luck... I think this is going to service right away, that must leakage is just unacceptable.

About the sharpness: Enough for me, I've got used to more "film-like" picture that JVC produces so I'm not the right person to judge this (or anything else ) but I think the pic is sharp - have to try with PC. too, it tells more about the sharpness.

Motion... fabulous. We use almost always 24P material and often, in certain scenes, some twitching can clearly be seen. For now, haven't seen any with this PJ.

Edit: We watched the movie "Flight" using HTPC today. Picture is much sharper than in JVC and looked just perfect, better than Sony 550 BR-players pic. Bright corners didn't bother this time since there's not much dark scenes in that movie. Found some more info about those (corners) in other discussions, seems to be quite common problem with SXRD and there isn't much to do about it except change the unit. And it's uncertain is the new one better or not. Great...
Edited by Mara-nalle - 2/23/13 at 11:45am

Perhaps you should check for bright corners after the PJ ran about 30 mins. My hc5 shows some severe broght corners (upper left and lower right) just after I start the unit. However, they are completely gone after about 30 mins.

I have been thinking about this since answering a pm from Mara. It has been quite some time since I played with a HC9000. But I seem to remember the bright corners changed with lens shift so you might want to experiment that way and then adjust the mounting if possible to balance out and minimize the bright corners. However, bright corners normally aren't a problem when viewing content and aren't worth obsessing about for those occasional fade to blacks. Just watch the screen center if you see bright corners in such situations and you won't notice or be bothered by them. If you can't ignore them, then seriously , ah never mind

Thank you both

Normally I just enjoy the movie but this is a new PJ for me and I always try first to check if I find anything that I'm not satisfied of and try to find out what might be done to correct it. Now that I know that this is a normal "feature" for SXRD I just let it go and sleep my nights peacefully

BTW, it seems that white corners do tame a lot when the PJ warms up. When the lamp has it's first 100 hours full I believe that the situation is a whole lot better. And I played around with the lens shift already yesterday but no change. Anyway, watched another movie today, another candy for the eyes

Watched our first 3D movie yesterday (Silent Hill Revelation), picture was surprisingly bright when using lamp's high-mode. I'm not really into 3D but since it's comes with the PJ and is usable why not watch some 3D movies occasionally.

BUT there’s one issue with my PJ that has been quite a problem since the beginning… I wanted to do some testing before writing anything about it.

When I turn on the projector everything works fine if no picture source is connected/on. But, if I change the input selection i.e. from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 (picture source -a laptop- already on) PJ kind of hangs up and does not response to any button, not even those which are in the PJ itself. Picture is displayed, though. Same thing happens when I turn my AV receiver on and PJ is already on (and HDMI 1 where received is connected is already selected in the PJ). I haven’t tried to change the input selection when AV reveicer is already on.

So, I have my laptop connected to PJ's HDMI 2 connection directly. If I turn the PJ on first and laptop second PJ hangs up the same way (HDMI 2 already selected in PJ) and also if the laptop is already on and I turn on the PJ. To get rid of this I need to unplug the HDMI cable and the put it back (maybe turning off and on the picture source would end in the same result). After a while PJ's both lights (Status and Power) are blinking and, of course, that kind of situation is not mentioned in the users manual. After a while only status light blinks and power light is on. I can’t figure out status light’s actual color when it blinks… PJ is on the shelf quite high, light looks red when watched above, orange then watched from side and there’s also some green in it when watched from the back :/
I can start the PJ again but it ends to the same situation (buttons don't work). But if I unplug the power chord and plug it in and start the PJ again it works just fine (laptop is on all the time).

Only once I’ve managed to use the PJ without this issue: I first turned on my AV reveicer, then BR-player (connected to reveicer) and then PJ which had HDMI 1 already selected (receiver connected to it).

I will test what will happen with s-video cable, I’d suppose that this problem has something to do with the HDMI “handshaking”. I tried tiried HDMI 1.3 and 1.4 cable between laptop and PJ but no change so I don’t think this could be caused by a HDMI cable alone. Have any of you ever heard of this kind of problem? It’s hard to believe that the problem is in the PJ itself since it works after unplugging. If it was broken I think this would happen every time when using it.

Mara-nalle

I have the same problem with my onkyo 818, when enabled autoIRIS. When its opened - no problem.

Whoa, thank you... haven't tried that yet (iris set is variable). But found another solution today... I unplugged the HDMI cable (from BR player to receiver) and connected BR player to PJ's HDMI 1 directly and - it works. Also tried to connect AV receiver to PJ's HDMI 1 when BR is not connected to AV receiver and, PJ works just fine. So, the problem is the HDMI connection between BR player and AV receiver. I'll get a protected HDMI cable and if it doesn't help I'll just use optical cable to sound transfer for now, allthought my BR player can transfer DTS-HD MA only via HDMI Oh well, AV receiver is new and projector is new. Maybe it's time to get a new BR player, too. But have to test that iris setting first...

This did the trick... unbelievable that variable iris setting was the reason. Thank you, thank you so much.

Does anyone have any recommended settings? I've been using the ones from the hc9000 thread and I'm very happy with the picture but curious if anyone's tried anything else.

My recommended settings are to buy a colorimeter, do some study http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 and make your own calibration. Each projector is unique and cannot be calibrated using others' settings.

Please I need help!
I can not find any reviews of the HC5.
I have a Mitsubishi HC3800 and I love it but now is time to upgrade.
Which projector choose? I am balanced between the Mits. HC5 and the Mits. HC8000?
Knowing that price is equivalent:
What is the best black level?
Sharpness?
Light output in 2D and 3D?
Color?
Operating noise?
Motion resolution?
Native contrast and ansi?
General appearance of the image?
Known Issues?
Other important considerations?
Anyone ever seen these two working?

Thank you?

Edited by nunofcp - 3/12/13 at 11:55pm

+1

And you won't, because there is none. This topic might help you http://www.avsforum.com/t/1456528/mitsubishi-hc5-vs-sharp-xv-z30000-as-a-single-pj-solution

Can't tell which one is better but HC5 is a real bargain for the price. It's just a fantastic PJ.

If it will be anything like the HC9000 it will be very good. Mine is doing a great job, I wish they had 3D autosense instead of having to into the menus every time. As y'all know 3D requires max lumens.

My dealer says the HC5 and HC9000 are the same projector. He use to sell the 9000 and now sells the HC5. Prices are really great on this unit!
Makes me consider one at his current pricing.

Same here. Whether it's the same or not it's all the same to me, I love this PJ more and more after every movie

So often that Mitsubishi Canada had total of 2 repairs for one whole year.

HC5000, 7000, and now 9000 owner here. The HC5000 i sold years ago is still working for the guy who bought it from me, it is now like 10 lamp lives later.

Are you happy with your projector? Any thoughts of upgrading it to something?

I am awaiting the arrival of my HC5 and I have to say that the early posts in this thread went a long way toward pushing me to this PJ.

I only wish the Mods could merge this thread with the owner's thread as there is a lot of overlap and needed info in both threads.

I was able to get the black version as well and thanks for the pictures. I also enjoyed your theater build thread.

Your dog looks a lot like my dog and seems to have the same "I know what I'm doing" nature.

Also it strikes me that this PJ would make a great PJ for a Star Trek themed theater. It looks a lot like the photon torpedo shell they laid Mr. Spock to rest in during "The Wrath of Khan", just needs an NCC-1701 on it. It's almost as big too...
Edited by larrimore - 5/9/13 at 12:28pm

True enough.

I can't believe I'm saying this but the looks of this projector is one of the points why I wanted it so much. I'm glad I'm getting the black version too.

Are you still going to like it if it only shows 300-400 lines on the motion resolution test?

Looking forward to seeing the results of the out of the box color and lumens in 3D mode.

Well, I never owned a light meter, but I am going to borrow one for you- just never needed one before 3D happened.

Give me advice on how you take the various readings and I'll see what I can do. I am thinking a real calibration won't happen until I can stay up all night and play- likely next Friday PM. My temporary setup for this PJ will allow me to put it almost anywhere from full open to full telephoto, which do you use?

What alternative there is in the projector world? Name one digital projector that is capable of substantially better motion resolution natively. Frankly, that report by Seegs of Marantz DLP having 1080 lines of motion resolution, I don't buy it anymore. I saw W7000 and HC9000 side-by-side on that motion resolution test and DLP didn't do better than LCoS in that regard.
The only PJ technology that offers 1080 lines of motion resolution is still CRT.

The BenQ W7000 and the Marantz are two totally different projectors. The Marantz uses a very high quality lens and the larger DLP DMD. That will make quite the difference. The video processing is totally different too. Gennum processing is some of the best offered in projectors.

Honestly the Marantz 20K is vastly superior to the w7000 on every count other than lumen's (ok, and lack of 3D ).

But this is not the thread to discuss it and there by derail, we get more than enough of that already.

Jason

Sorry, no. If a projector is capable of 1080 lines of static resolution across the whole image and incapable of 1080 lines of motion resolution then lens and DMD size plays no role here. Sample and hold is at fault here and I'm yet to see a DLP projector that is any different than the ones I already saw in this regard.

The video processor hardware chips and the processing code could be an additional reason to cause some lower priced projectors to have poor motion resolution, but I'm sure that is also affected by the hardware/electronics limitations as well.