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I need crimp or solder audio F-Type connectors for stranded audio wire? Where to get?

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
I bought the "premium" 5-wire component "RG6" cable from Monoprice and it's already been run to 9 drops throughout my house from my media closet. The cables are total crap, but it's too late now to re-run the cabling, all the drywall has been put back up and walls and ceilings are re-painted.

The connectors are awful and frequently pop-off the RCA-RCA bulkhead wall plates, lose connection, and the audio wire on half of them have completely popped off the connectors. I'm constantly troubleshooting, pulling off wall plates, wiggling connectors, etc.

So, to make sure I have a more positive lock on the connectors, I'm planning to snip off all the connectors and put on F-Type compression connectors since these cables are "RG6". Not entirely true. Only the 3 component video (red, green, blue) cables are actually coaxial RG6 cables; the audio cables are stranded 22 gauge (appears to be) wire, enclosed in an RG6-size rubber jacket to match size of the 3 component video cables.

Here is the cable, 3 component video RG6 coaxial, 2 audio stranded wire with RG6-size rubber jacket.


In other words -- I can use F-Type compression connectors for the component video connectors, but I cannot use F-Type compression connectors for the audio connectors.

I want some kind of F-Type connector that's a crimp or solder type to use on the stranded audio wire. I do not want to use RCA, the bulkhead connectors I'm getting are all F-Type for inside the wall. Where can I get such connectors or is there another solution? So far, my only solution I can find is to get a BNC crimp connector to use for the audio wires and then connect a BNC to F-Type adapter so I can connect it to the F-Type bulkhead.

Crimp type BNC connector


BNC to F-Type adapter


F-Type to RCA bulkhead



I'd rather just go with an F-Type crimp or solder connector for the audio wires.

Any help?
post #2 of 18
Why not crimp / solder on an RCA male connector, and use an RCA-to-RCA keystone bulkhead instead? Monoprice has the RCA-to-RCA keystones:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042601&p_id=6548&seq=1&format=2

(gee, and I thougtht I knew that name - I built my poker table from your plans! Ok, I had one built after figuring out if I did it, it wouldn't turn out so good.)

Jeff
post #3 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Why not crimp / solder on an RCA male connector, and use an RCA-to-RCA keystone bulkhead instead? Monoprice has the RCA-to-RCA keystones:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042601&p_id=6548&seq=1&format=2
(gee, and I thougtht I knew that name - I built my poker table from your plans! Ok, I had one built after figuring out if I did it, it wouldn't turn out so good.)
Jeff

Yep, it's me, Scott, from the poker table builders website and forum. I run into a surprising number of people who have used that forum to build their tables...

Anyway, about the RCA-to-RCA bulkheads. I have those and I'm getting away from them because they're horrible. I actually have the ones from Monoprice and I think they are really crappy. For one, when you push on an RCA connector from the outside, it pushes the RCA connector on the inside of the bulkhead off the connector which pops off inside the wall. Yes, Monoprice made the RCA-to-RCA bulkheads too short. Besides that, I've had numerous connection failures with RCA connectors and adapters from Monoprice. So much, that I'm not going to do RCA on the inside of the wall anymore because I'm getting sick of unscrewing wall plates and re-connecting RCA jacks that popped off the back and wiggling bad connectors.

The only thing I want to do is F-Type or BNC connectors on the inside wall bulkhead because you can lock/tighten that sucker down and it won't pop off inside the wall so I won't have to be unscrewing wall plates all the time. The outside can still be RCA (like the one I pictured), but the inside needs to be BNC or F-Type. I'd prefer F-Type because it's much cheaper than BNC and I have 9 drops to do, each with 5 connections (Video+Audio): 9 x 5 = 45 bulkheads + 45 connectors. Also, I haven't found BNC-to-RCA bulkheads which are color-coded Green/Blue/Red+White/Red, but I have found F-Type-to-RCA bulkheads which are color-coded.

So, I'm still stuck looking for help, trying to find a crimp or solder F-Type connector that will work with the audio wire I have pictured above...
post #4 of 18
I have a feeling that no RG6 connectors will work well, for that coaxial speaker cable. The center conductor should be solid, or you'll have a bad connection.

But, I think you could easily use keystone binding posts.

I'd call Monoprice. I bet they have had similar complaints and may offer a solution.
post #5 of 18
F connectors are 75 ohm and BNC are either 50 or 75 as well. Audio cable is 10k-100k ohm. Are you sure you want to use a 50 or 75 ohm connector on a 50,000 ohm cable?

There are no F connectors that have center pins that you can solder to. I have never seen any BNC connectors like that, either. Get your bulkheads from somewhere other than Monoprice. I've never had any problems with the ones that I've used. I think they were ICC.
post #6 of 18
Quote:
Are you sure you want to use a 50 or 75 ohm connector on a 50,000 ohm cable?

Are you serious?
Please google "Characteristic impedance". We don't impedance match in audio any more, and the characteristic impedance of those connectors will not make any difference.
...and there are no cables with a 50K impedance.
Quote:
There are no F connectors that have center pins that you can solder to. I have never seen any BNC connectors like that, either.

You can buy 'F' and BNC chassis mount conenctors with solder tabs....
post #7 of 18
I think he's talking about the wire center conductor on an F-connector. It needs to be a stiff, solid wire.

I'd look at Neutrik connectors.....maybe the locking 1/4-inch Phone Plugs and Jacks. Solder to the jacks on the wall plate, and use the locking mechanism to hold the audio plugs in place.
post #8 of 18
What if you peeled away enough of the strands so the remainder approximate the diameter of an RG6 center conductor? Then you could apply solder to bind the strands together. Canare connectors have a center pin that crimps onto the center conductor. You may have to file away some of the solder to make it fit.

Once the connector's assembled to the cable, it will probably work well enough for audio signals and stay on since the center pin is held by the connector body. You could also try soldering the pin on instead of crimping it. There are 2 tiny holes in either side of the pin connected to the cavity that holds the wire.

Just brainstorming. Clearly, finding a connector made for stranded conductors is the best option.
post #9 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAM64 View Post


You can buy 'F' and BNC chassis mount conenctors with solder tabs....

Thanks, didn't know. GIS of RCA keystone solder tab shows many options.

post #10 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pirspilane View Post

Canare connectors have a center pin that crimps onto the center conductor. You may have to file away some of the solder to make it fit.
Once the connector's assembled to the cable, it will probably work well enough for audio signals and stay on since the center pin is held by the connector body.

This sort of thing?



I noticed there are various versions of the same product for different types of cable. Any idea which one I should get? Here's what I've found:
http://www.zackelectronics.com/servlet/the-Connectors-cln-F-%26-N-Type-(CATV)/Categories

I've also found these for .99 cents

http://www.uxcell.com/plug-adapter-connector-with-solder-type-connection-p-45913.html

The problem with those are a) it's right-angle, I'd rather have straight, b) it's not a screw-on type
post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
I was just thinking... I could always just solder on some RCA connectors to the audio wires and solder the RCA connector to an RCA-to-F-Type adapter.


this...



soldered to...

post #12 of 18
It is not going to be fun soldering those together. You will need either a big soldering iron (maybe 300W?) or a torch. And you are likely to damage any plastic parts in the process.

IIWY I would solder on RCA plugs and use the appropriate jacks. I have never had the problems with RCA keystone jacks that you have had. But I didn't use monoprice jacks, If I had to use a F-connector, I would terminate a short piece of coax with the same kind of F-connector I was using for the video cables and splice the audio cable to it.
Edited by Colm - 9/11/12 at 3:55pm
post #13 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

If I had to use a F-connector, I would terminate a short piece of coax with the appropriate F-connector and splice the audio cable to it.

OK, so just solder the red (or white) wire to the coax solid center conductor, and the strand wire to the coax braid/shield, and then shrink tube the whole thing?
post #14 of 18
Pretty much. You will also need to insulate the center conductor so that it doesn't short to the braid/shield using heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, Plasti Dip or something similar.
post #15 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by SAM64 View Post

Are you serious?
Please google "Characteristic impedance". We don't impedance match in audio any more, and the characteristic impedance of those connectors will not make any difference.
...and there are no cables with a 50K impedance.
You can buy 'F' and BNC chassis mount conenctors with solder tabs....
It's good to know that impedance matching is not so important anymore.

On the connectors -- I only had male connectors in mind. Didn't even give a thought to female connectors.
post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottkeen View Post

This sort of thing?

I noticed there are various versions of the same product for different types of cable. Any idea which one I should get? Here's what I've found:
http://www.zackelectronics.com/servlet/the-Connectors-cln-F-%26-N-Type-(CATV)/Categories

I use the FP-C53A connectors. They fit Belden's p/n 1694A RG-6 cable. I think Canare has a chart on their website somewhere that tells you which cable works with their connectors.
post #17 of 18
post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thanks, that connector requires coaxial cable.

The cable I have (for the 2 audio channels) are the same size as RG-6 coax, but they're not coax. They are 2-conductor braided with an RG-6 size sheath. They have no solid center core conductor.

I went ahead and ordered the Canare FP-C53A connectors, and just ordered the a crimping tool and die which *should* work. The tool from Canare is ridiculously expensive.



This is the tool I ordered:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VH1OVG


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002W3A7Q
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