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4 SEOS-12 Deltalite II 2512 + 3 SEOS-12 JBL 2226H - Page 2

post #31 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

... I had thought about doing some thing similar, like running a pair of subs for the really low, 10hz to 25hz frequencys, and then run something like an F-20 for the upper bass frequencys, that way I could have all of the output of the F-20's, (which is a lot from what iv read!), and also the really deep bass that an F-20 can't produce.
That is what I'm doing. However you do have to add delay to the sealed subs using some kind of processing. I'm using a Mal x 21" in IB, but I have two mfw 15s in storage that I should probably make into a dual opposed sealed sub as well and add that to the mix
post #32 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Have you ever compared the sealed MFW's that you are running. ow, to the stock MFW-15's from av123? If so, how do you like the sealed MFW's compared to the stock MFW''s? What are you using to EQ all of this stuff? Are you using the sealed MFW's in the same theater that you will be using the F-20's? I had thought about doing some thing similar, like running a pair of subs for the really low, 10hz to 25hz frequencys, and then run something like an F-20 for the upper bass frequencys, that way I could have all of the output of the F-20's, (which is a lot from what iv read!), and also the really deep bass that an F-20 can't produce.

I've never heard the AV123 sub. I've always envied their cabinetry (veneers) but, at the time I think they were having issues and I waited and ended up getting an Elemental Designs A5-350 front firing.

I use a minidsp for the MFW-15s and MJ-18s.

I haven't compared or heard the F-20s yet. Hopefully today. I still have to wire the subs, cut the terminal holes and screw in the access panel. If I place the F-20s at a distance between the seating area and the screen and put the sealed subs behind the screen the minidsp has enough delay to work. I only have minidsp 2/4s, an EQ2 and Rechorn B1s for eq.
Edited by louisdamani - 11/18/12 at 8:21am
post #33 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by louisdamani View Post

I've never heard the AV123 sub. I've always envied their cabinetry (veneers) but, at the time I think they were having issues and I waited and ended up getting an Elemental Designs A5-350 front firing.
I use a minidsp for the MFW-15s and MJ-18s.
I haven't compared or heard the F-20s yet. Hopefully today. I still have to wire the subs, cut the terminal holes and screw in the access panel. If I place the F-20s at a distance between the seating area and the screen and put the sealed subs behind the screen the minidsp has enough delay to work. I only have minidsp 2/4s, an EQ2 and Rechorn B1s for eq.


Any updates? Have you finished the F-20 yet?
As far as your Seos-12/DNA-360/2226h build, are you going to use an active crossover, or, build a passive crossover? How do you think the DNA-360 compares to the B&C DE250?


BTW- I am about to send you a PM with a couple of questions that I didn't want to post out in the open.
post #34 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post

Any updates? Have you finished the F-20 yet?
As far as your Seos-12/DNA-360/2226h build, are you going to use an active crossover, or, build a passive crossover? How do you think the DNA-360 compares to the B&C DE250?
BTW- I am about to send you a PM with a couple of questions that I didn't want to post out in the open.

Yes. Active for the 2226H speakers once I learn alot of stuff first. eek.gif OR passive once someone comes up with one and I save up some more money.

I haven't heard the DE250 but Erich H, BWaslo and all the people in the know have said that they sound the same and measure better than the DE250. They have also said that the DNA-350 sounds the same but doesn't extend as LOW as the DE250. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from Erich H. He is a real stand up guy!

The DNA-360/ SEOS-12/ Deltalite II speakers I have sound excellent. I built them as surround speakers( yes I know i'M CRAZY because the speakers are huge) but I don't think I can only listen to them for surrounds so 1 pair is staying in my living room for 2.1 and 1 pair is going in my bedroom as the mains for my 4.1. I really like them!

The F-20s are done but still naked. They are very capable subs. I havent set up the eq correctly yet. It is ssf''d but I didnt check to see at what yet. I know its above 20hz though because I have the MJ18s in too large of a box and that is the sigmal that is going to the F-20s. I have them both on one channel of the XLS402 at 2 omhs and man they can really go!

Edited to correct facts
Edited by louisdamani - 11/20/12 at 10:04am
post #35 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by louisdamani View Post

They have also said that the DNA-350 sounds the same but doesn't extend as high as the DE250.

The 350 doesn't extend quite as low, but does go up as high. Best used when crossding around 1200hz

on the other hand, the 360 that he questioned is just like the DE250, but the 360 extends up higher. The 360 does show it has a slightly better lower end, but it's so marginal that I'm not sure you could tell.
post #36 of 62
Thread Starter 
Post corrected. Sorry Erich smile.gif
post #37 of 62
Thread Starter 
Hey, would anyone know what size bolt to use to mount the DNA-360? I couldn't locate mine. I guess I can look inside one of the completed speakers once I'm home if not. I'm putting together one of my SEOS-12/ JBL 2226Hs. Thanks mtg-90 and tuxedocivic!!! smile.gif
post #38 of 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by louisdamani View Post

Hey, would anyone know what size bolt to use to mount the DNA-360? I couldn't locate mine. I guess I can look inside one of the completed speakers once I'm home if not. I'm putting together one of my SEOS-12/ JBL 2226Hs. Thanks mtg-90 and tuxedocivic!!! smile.gif

Yep. I lost mine, too. Here's a reply from Erich:

They're metric, so it's M5 - .80 and the ones I have are 16mm long but you could use 14mm. I always include lock washers as well. Lowes has them in packs of 4.
post #39 of 62
Thread Starter 
Thanks Java!
post #40 of 62
Thread Starter 
I got one of the 2226H SEOS speakers put together. I have a passive XO in this one. The other 2 will be ran active.
post #41 of 62
Wow, lookin good there Louis. I wish I could have a pair of such monsters in my living room.
post #42 of 62
No kidding. Awesome stuff.
post #43 of 62
Nice! smile.gif

Sound good so far?
post #44 of 62
Java, you have the DNA-350. Those use M5 screws. The DNA-360 uses M6.

Louisdamani, if you can't find them, I can send you extras. They would have been taped to the waveguide or in the box with the CD's.
post #45 of 62
Thread Starter 
Thanks Erich. I found them the third time around. LOL! Its funny how you can look past a small baggie with bolts in it because of other crap being in the same box.
post #46 of 62
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys! Thats funny about the living room. My wife says I takeover rooms in the house.
post #47 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

Nice! smile.gif

Sound good so far?

Sounds great so far mtg90! So dynamic!!!

I'm going to have to figure something out because the Deltalites are supposed to be surrounds for the 2226Hs in the basement but, I don't want to give them up from the living room.
Edited by louisdamani - 12/24/12 at 12:00am
post #48 of 62
Thread Starter 
Hey all. I have my SEOS-12/ DNA-360/ 2226H speakers running. One passive crossover(center location) and two active crossover. The active is Yamaha receiver>>minidsp unbalanced 2X4>>Emotiva UPA-5. The UPA-5 is powering all three but, XOs are different. The minidsp is being powered by a Plugable usb 4 port hub.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P2BY5I/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02

The actives have HISS and I was wondering what I can try to lower or get rid of it. I have been searching here and Google. I have the plugable is connected to a surge protector. I still have hiss when the minidsp is connected to the laptop. I still have hiss if I use a cell phone charger. Still have hiss if I use a cheater plug. Still have hiss if I use an extention cord to plug it into a different socket on a different circuit. Can anyone suggest something to try? Thanks
post #49 of 62
Can't remember who, but someone in the minidsp thread grounded their unbalanced version to get rid of hiss. I honestly don't know the details of what was done. Mine doesn't have a problem.

Is it bad enough you can hear it from the LP? If so that's pretty bad.

We could do a passive/active. Add a couple passive components in front of the compression driver to lower it's natural output. Active settings would be different. You'd get the added benefit of protecting the CD from DC thump and accidental mis-wiring.
post #50 of 62
Thread Starter 
With nothing playing it can be heard at LP. What would a ground loop isolator do in this situation? Where in the chain would it go?
post #51 of 62
I dunno.

I'd check in the minidsp thread. Post there cause I haven't followed it, but I think people have had your problem. Active can be a hassle like this with high sensitivity compression drivers.
post #52 of 62
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Can't remember who, but someone in the minidsp thread grounded their unbalanced version to get rid of hiss. I honestly don't know the details of what was done. Mine doesn't have a problem.

Is it bad enough you can hear it from the LP? If so that's pretty bad.

We could do a passive/active. Add a couple passive components in front of the compression driver to lower it's natural output. Active settings would be different. You'd get the added benefit of protecting the CD from DC thump and accidental mis-wiring.
Would I need to take measurements for the passive/active option?
post #53 of 62
I am wondering if a simple l-pad would be able to knock down the hiss level enough. Say just a 4 ohm in series with an 8 ohm in parallel which should drop it by 6dB.

Then you just bring the level in the active settings up by that amount.
post #54 of 62
Ya, no measurement needed. MTG90 and I could figure it out. Something like an L-Pad or a C + L-pad. Would be cheap and simple. And take out quite a bit of hiss. Plus add tweeter protection.
post #55 of 62
Thread Starter 
That would be great! Could it be put in a diagram for me? What watt resistors?
post #56 of 62
Here you go:





You could also run a NPE in parallel with a poly capacitor to save a few $. Somthing like the 33uF NPE cap with a 10uF dayton poly, should cost about half that.
post #57 of 62
Thread Starter 
Is this what you mean?

Is there a benefit to the higher priced route?
post #58 of 62
No, he means you could buy a 33 and a 10 and twist them together in parallel. That'll make a 43uF cap. Then follow his schematic just the same.
post #59 of 62
Thread Starter 
Thanks. (Novice over here)! smile.gif!
post #60 of 62
Thread Starter 
Thanks again mtg90 and tuxedocivic! Parts ordered. Is this still the 6 dbs lower that I will have to raise on the tweeter side in dsp?
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