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The Medley's Neck Theater - Page 2

post #31 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by xjagox View Post

I've also been working a bit on coming up with room layout ideas. Here's my preliminary plan- need some feedback...
elevation1_zps0ae52c27.gif
I'm leaning towards making the screen wall on the back wall of the theater near the storage room, as the plastic chairs are oriented currently. I could also reverse everything, but I'm concerned about low head room over the riser due to the ceiling obstructions.
I'm envisioning having a perimeter soffit and light tray in the room. Maybe I can work the beam soffit into that somehow too?
Does the seating plan seem doable? I'm thinking 117"x50" screen, seating at about 9' 6" and 16', with a back bar at about 18'.
Couple of things that jump out at me, since our rooms are similarly sized. 1'6" seems pretty tight for the false wall if you plan on having a sub or 2 behind it. Unless you already know the dimensions of the sub you will use, I would give yourself a little breathing room (my false wall will be at 2'6").

Also, the first row eyes to screen distance may be a bit close. Depending on what AT screen you get, you may be able to see the weave at that distance, especially if you add more room behind the screen. Personally, I think you would need a little more depth to do 2 rows and a bar. If you can annex some more space from the storage room, you might be able to, otherwise it seems pretty tight to me. However, that's just one guys opinion.

Overall you have a great space to work with. Looking forward to watching your progress!
post #32 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I would budget $350-400 ea for a quality fully-enclosed in-wall surround, like a Triad Bronze. Def Tech has some that are fully enclosed. Atlantic Technology has some as well, but their true surrounds (bipole/dipole switchable) do not have a back. Your options will open up if you also consider shallow on-walls. Either way, you will probably need to find a good deal on something used if your budget for all 4 is $300.
Another thing to consider is whether you want your surround to be configured as a direct radiating model or a dipole. The Polk you are looking at is not a dipole speaker which will lead to your surround effects being more localized.

What are the on-wall options? I really mean in-column, so anything that is a only a couple of inches thick would work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Couple of things that jump out at me, since our rooms are similarly sized. 1'6" seems pretty tight for the false wall if you plan on having a sub or 2 behind it. Unless you already know the dimensions of the sub you will use, I would give yourself a little breathing room (my false wall will be at 2'6").
Also, the first row eyes to screen distance may be a bit close. Depending on what AT screen you get, you may be able to see the weave at that distance, especially if you add more room behind the screen. Personally, I think you would need a little more depth to do 2 rows and a bar. If you can annex some more space from the storage room, you might be able to, otherwise it seems pretty tight to me. However, that's just one guys opinion.
Overall you have a great space to work with. Looking forward to watching your progress!

Thank you for the feedback.

I'm assuming that the left-center-right speakers I use will be about 12" deep, leaving me a few inches between speakers and the screen. I could bump the bottom of the false wall out a bit to accommodate larger subs. I'm thinking about the Centerstage XD screen material.
post #33 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by xjagox View Post

What are the on-wall options? I really mean in-column, so anything that is a only a couple of inches thick would work.

All of these could be hidden inside a column. The last few may be getting too deep though.

2-1/2" deep:
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/mythos-xtr-20bp

4-1/2" deep:
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/mythos-gem
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/mythos-gem-xl
http://www.klipsch.com/s-10-surround-speakers-pair

5-1/2" deep:
http://www.klipsch.com/rs-41-ii-surround-speaker

6" deep
http://www.axiomaudio.com/qs4-surround-sound-speakers.html

What kind of speakers are you using for the fronts? Many folks don't bother matching their surrounds with their fronts, but you probably don't want to mix horn tweeters on a Klipsch surround if your fronts have traditional dome tweeters.

FYI-My width of my theater is within inches of yours and our 1st and 2nd rows are the exact same distance from the screen. My room is not as deep however, so no 3rd row for me.
Edited by Spaceman - 10/26/12 at 8:46pm
post #34 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

All of these could be hidden inside a column. The last few may be getting too deep though.
2-1/2" deep:
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/mythos-xtr-20bp
4-1/2" deep:
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/mythos-gem
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/mythos-gem-xl
http://www.klipsch.com/s-10-surround-speakers-pair
5-1/2" deep:
http://www.klipsch.com/rs-41-ii-surround-speaker
6" deep
http://www.axiomaudio.com/qs4-surround-sound-speakers.html
What kind of speakers are you using for the fronts? Many folks don't bother matching their surrounds with their fronts, but you probably don't want to mix horn tweeters on a Klipsch surround if your fronts have traditional dome tweeters.
FYI-My width of my theater is within inches of yours and our 1st and 2nd rows are the exact same distance from the screen. My room is not as deep however, so no 3rd row for me.

Thanks Spaceman, I'll look into some of those.

What do you think about GWCR's concern of seeing the AT screen weave from the front row?
post #35 of 75
Seeing the weave is a legitimate concern when sitting at close range. I have the Centerstage fabric on my screen, but unfortunately I took the screen back down and don't have my pj up yet, so I can't share my experience from 9-1/2'. Maybe in a few more weeks.
post #36 of 75
I can see the weave 10' or closer on my centrestage xd in the brightest scenes, especially hockey (White ice). My main seating is right around 11' and it's unnoticeable to others except me at times because I look for it closely.

I would be tempted to try to get my hands on the 4K material instead of the XD if seating is under 10', although I don't think it's yet available in DIY material.
post #37 of 75
Thread Starter 
Help me with my HVAC return

My current HVAC return duct has been bugging me lately. There is a huge "jumper" to tie a panned return duct for the ground first floor to a different panned joist bay that is above the air handler. Is there anything I can do about this?

It's outside of the theater area at least, but it would still require a huge weird soffit if left as is.

IMG_1724_zps0bb3b349.jpg
IMG_1723_zps8221e1c8.jpg
IMG_1725_zps813d0b68.jpg
post #38 of 75
Where outside the Theater is this. Is it in an ideal location to frame up a closet, where you do not need the head room.
post #39 of 75
Is there somewhere else on the ground floor the return could be placed?
post #40 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

Where outside the Theater is this. Is it in an ideal location to frame up a closet, where you do not need the head room.

Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Is there somewhere else on the ground floor the return could be placed?

Here's the basement layout:
fedf91ef.gif

And here's the first floor floor plan (mostly correct), overlayed on the joist layout and ducts:
return_zpsa384da66.jpg

If I move the vertical duct and return register to the blue location, that would solve the problem, but may be low WAF boxing in a corner of the dining room.
post #41 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Seeing the weave is a legitimate concern when sitting at close range. I have the Centerstage fabric on my screen, but unfortunately I took the screen back down and don't have my pj up yet, so I can't share my experience from 9-1/2'. Maybe in a few more weeks.

I got a little sample square of the Centerstage fabric yesterday, and it doesn't seem like it should be a big issue, but I also don't have a projector to test it with. Looking forward to your feedback when you get it set up.
post #42 of 75
Quote:
Originally Posted by xjagox View Post


I'm assuming that the left-center-right speakers I use will be about 12" deep, leaving me a few inches between speakers and the screen. I could bump the bottom of the false wall out a bit to accommodate larger subs. I'm thinking about the Centerstage XD screen material.

This is how I built my false wall, 12" depth on top and 24" on the bottom. My front row is also at 9-1/2' and although it isn't ideal my wife and I are happy with it. With Blu-ray or OTA (1080p) it looks great, but projecting 1080i or 720p signals the weave begins to become noticeable. Nothing horrible and most people may not even notice it, but I thought I would mention it. I tend to look for the weave during bright scenes though.
post #43 of 75
Thread Starter 
Updates

Not much in the way of theater-related updates... I got some new materials: romex, flex duct, pipe to reroute my furnace vents, some HDMI, speaker, CAT6 and related accessories from Monoprice.

I also built some new shelves in my garage to try to relocate the majority of the crap that was previously stored in the basement.
Old:
IMG_20121026_115411_zps76e1d6d3.jpg

New:
IMG_20121120_081219_zps436da522.jpg
post #44 of 75
Thread Starter 
Also, I'm getting very nervous as the time comes to start closing up the walls. I'm considering a room flip. Here are all of the options:
Option 1.
elevation1_zps0ae52c27.gif

Option 2.
elevation2_zpsb6202b0c.gif

Option 3.
elevation2a.gif


Some of my thoughts:
1- I'm concerned about the overflow light from the projector shining off of the beam (especially if zoomed for 2.35:1).

2 or 3- I think would solve this problem and maybe make the ceiling layout more architecturally pleasing. Ceiling height over the riser is reduced however.

2- I think I would prefer the door location in the front half of the room to stay out of the way of the columns and not swinging right up against the seats/riser, but the door opening would be out into a perpendicular hallway at this point, making it hard to bring long items into the theater.

3- The door would open into a straight hallway, but swings into the seating area. I moved the front column forward to enable the door to swing all the way open and lay flat against the wall.
post #45 of 75
A few things that I noticed....

It looks like you are not going to run the riser to the back wall, that would mean very tall stools to see over the second elevated row of seating. And the projector looks pretty low, like it may interfere with the back bar viewing, The plans look good, keep up the good work, Im really looking forward to seeing your progress!
post #46 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

A few things that I noticed....
It looks like you are not going to run the riser to the back wall, that would mean very tall stools to see over the second elevated row of seating. And the projector looks pretty low, like it may interfere with the back bar viewing, The plans look good, keep up the good work, Im really looking forward to seeing your progress!

Yeah, I think I would probably put the bar/stools up on the riser. I made those drawings prior to measuring some actual counters and stools around the house. The projector isn't picked out yet either. My big concern is figuring out where to locate it distance-wise and deal with the height placement based on projector zoom and correction features.

I also didn't work soffits, HVAC, or lighting into the drawing yet, but I plan on doing something similar to lots of the other theaters in the forum: perimeter soffit to hide HVAC ducts with a light tray to hold cans and rope light. Also a soffit or proscenium in front of the screen with screen wash lights.

What do you think about the room orientation? Now I'm leaning more toward the option 2 or 3 with the beam toward the back.
post #47 of 75
I agree, the beam toward the back just seems to make more sense, and looks better.
post #48 of 75
Thread Starter 
Some updates:

I am moving at a snails pace due to lack of time to commit to basement work, but I have gotten some things marked off the to do list-
- I relocated the air intake/exhuast for my furnace http://www.avsforum.com/t/1437135/furnace-vent-location. That frees up some space in the mess of pipes and ducts that cross the middle of the theater.
- I eliminated a few unneeded supply ducts- one redundant supply in the main floor bathroom, one that dumped into the unfinished plumbing closet in the basement.
- Continued framing, just about done with that
- Installed some of the IB-1 clips on the walls in the theater
- Ordered the channel, drywall, and insulation (to be delivered next week)
- I've also rethought the idea of a separate room for the exercise equipment and decided to convert the area that is obstructed by my return air vents into a closet. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1429098/the-medleys-neck-theater/30#post_22548637

I'm way behind on getting all of my HVAC and electrical roughed in so that I can start the drywall, but hopefully the big pile of materials that comes next week will be a motivation to speed things up.

I updated my plans for the theater area, to include a rough idea for lighting and soffits. I'm planning to run a circuit to the future Grafik Eye location, which I plan to mount in a column next to the room entrance. From there, I plan to run all of the in-room lighting circuits in columns/soffits, so I should have flexibility after getting the initial drywall shell done.
I'm planning to buy a 6 zone Grafik Eye:
Zone 1 - Screen wash lights (red)
Zone 2 - Side soffit recessed lights (orange)
Zone 3 - Rear soffit/bar recessed lights (green)
Zone 4 - Rope light in soffit trays
Zone 5 - Possible behind screen lights
Zone 6 - Possible something else if I need it


I may up the quantity on some of those soffit lights depending on how they project onto walls and columns, but again I will have flexibility on that post-drywall.

The theater lighting seems easy compared to the rest of the basement. I'd like to set up a bunch of cans in the general basement area in a few zones.
Zone 1 - Family/Play area
Zone 2 - Exercise/Family room #2
Zone 3 - Hallways
Zone 4 - Bar area


I'm looking at using a Lutron Maestro dimmer and companion dimmer(s) for each zone. That way I could do a 3-way type dimmer setup for each zone with a control location at both the walkout door and at the bottom of the stairs. For the exercise area I would possibly add a second companion dimmer to allow control of that zone from somewhere on the wall outside of the storage room as well. The Maestro dimmers seem like a more cost effective solution than another Grafik Eye + wall stations since I don't really need the preset scene capabilities.

What's kicking my ass is figuring out how to plan for the spacing and layout of recessed lights in the big open living areas. Anyone have some good advice?
post #49 of 75
Thread Starter 
Insulation, hat channel, and a crapload of drywall came today.



Now I just need to do the million things that need to be done before I can hang said drywall...
post #50 of 75
I just found your thread tonight as I was searching for opinions on a 3rd row bar with stools.

I think you did the right thing configuring your room with the door closer to the back of the room. My first theater had the door toward the front, and it was distracting when somone needed to come in/out. Also, keeping that beam toward the back of the room is good, I would think it would have been distracting near the front.

Make sure you use a large A/C duct and grill (possibly two) with a properly sized return duct. You want to be sure to keep the room cool, and not have noisy HVAC supplys. My first HT got very warm after 90 minutes with just 2 or 3 people watching a movie, even on a cool night.

About the bar in back, what height do you plan it to be? Do you plan to frame and drywall it, or add it in after the room is finished?

Good work! I look forward to following your progress.

Paul
post #51 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkarmouche View Post

I just found your thread tonight as I was searching for opinions on a 3rd row bar with stools.
I think you did the right thing configuring your room with the door closer to the back of the room. My first theater had the door toward the front, and it was distracting when somone needed to come in/out. Also, keeping that beam toward the back of the room is good, I would think it would have been distracting near the front.
Make sure you use a large A/C duct and grill (possibly two) with a properly sized return duct. You want to be sure to keep the room cool, and not have noisy HVAC supplys. My first HT got very warm after 90 minutes with just 2 or 3 people watching a movie, even on a cool night.
About the bar in back, what height do you plan it to be? Do you plan to frame and drywall it, or add it in after the room is finished?
Good work! I look forward to following your progress.
Paul

Thanks for the feedback Paul!

Right now I'm planning for two 6" round ducts off the main trunk dumping into the soffit behind the screen. Convert to flex there and run within the soffit to vents along the side soffits. I think I can bring an 8" round return from the main return plenum over to the theater area. As a plan B, I will plan to add additional dead vents from the theater to the general basement area, hiding the muffler high on the wall in the unfinished storage room.

I need to add a few more supplies in the large finished basement area. Right now there is only 1 6"? (maybe 5") supply.

HVAC diagram:
post #52 of 75
Thread Starter 
Sometimes I feel like I'm the slowest theater builder in the forum! It's amazing how much some of you seem to get done in short periods of time.

Some updates:
I've got most of the clips and some of the channel hung throughout the basement. I started hanging a few sheets of drywall in the storage area just to get a feel for the drywall gun.


I picked up a drywall lift from fellow local AVSer fax6202.. Big thanks to you, Dave, that thing will be a huge help.


In the theater, I ran HDMI + 4 Cat6 + power from my equipment rack to the projector location. I got a half sheet of OSB up on the ceiling to test out the lift. I have about half of the ceiling insulated in the theater also.


I have a good portion of the electrical roughed in everywhere. I've decided on 5 x 4" recessed lights in the smaller workout area of the living space, arranged in a "dice" pattern. The bigger part of the living area will probably get about 10-12 of the same, but I haven't worked out their locations 100%. I cut a bunch of OSB down to size to build backer boxes for all of the recessed lights. I bought some cement backer board to line them with that I also need to get cut up and assembled.


I picked up a 6 zone Grafik Eye off of eBay for $300. I just picked it up from the post office today. It looks good, but I need to hook it up temporarily to test it out.
post #53 of 75
Thread Starter 
D'oh!

I hooked up my Grafik Eye from eBay. No LEDs, no output to loads, and it seems to be unresponsive to button presses.

I have it wired per page 5 http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/032188a.pdf.

The label on the front lists it as a GRX-MX-6, which from what I can tell should be the same as a GRX-3106 and should work with the first diagram on page 5. Anybody know any dumb things I might be overlooking?
post #54 of 75
hook only the three wires hot, ground and neutral up to the unit from the power source without any thing else. make sure the breaker is on and use something to make sure the circuit is live, if you can't get any LEDs to work, your life just got more complicated.
post #55 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

hook only the three wires hot, ground and neutral up to the unit from the power source without any thing else. make sure the breaker is on and use something to make sure the circuit is live, if you can't get any LEDs to work, your life just got more complicated.

Yep, tried it with loads, and with just the hot/neutral/gnd from the panel. Same thing. A light only hooked to the panel source works fine, and I can verify 120V from H-G and H-N, 0V from N-G with a meter.

My only hope at first was that it was set in button disable mode or something, but holding Scene1+Off doesn't get into the programming mode. I contacted the eBay seller, and I'll try to call Lutron too. What a PITA.
post #56 of 75
And the neutral is connected to the terminal on the opposite side of the GE, not the SSA screw below hot?

I think you would get LEDs regardless of any other modes the GE may be in.

Tim
post #57 of 75
Thread Starter 
Yep, I used the the neutral and the hot on the opposite side.




I also checked for 12VDC on the low voltage pin 2, which I would think should be there when power is applied.
post #58 of 75
I know it seemed like a silly question, but I've done some pretty stupid things smile.gif I have seen magic smoke more than once.

Given what you've posted, I think you have a bad unit.

Tim
post #59 of 75
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I know it seemed like a silly question, but I've done some pretty stupid things smile.gif I have seen magic smoke more than once.

Given what you've posted, I think you have a bad unit.

Tim

No such thing as a stupid question smile.gif I appreciate the help. Hopefully this won't be a disaster dealing with eBay and the seller.
post #60 of 75
If yo payed with PayPal the seller is pretty much at your mercy. In a worst case scenario, if you were to file a Paypal dispute, it makes things extremely difficult for a seller.

Of course, exhaust every avenue to rectify it amicably. But it is no secret Paypal is skewed heavily on the side of the buyer.

Tim
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