The new Harman Kardon AVR1700 - Page 14

I meant I get the exact same things as Shady195 does....

Hmm, I checked again the settings in the receiver. There is no upconversion settings in the receiver. So output will be same as the source. My other HK receiver have the upconversion option though. So no 1080p conversion from 720p/1080i.

My first impression with the 1080P issues that some are experiencing is that the actual source is not really 1080P even if it is advertised as such. Others have already correctly noted that the 1700 does not upconvert. Could it be that the 1700 simply understands that the signal is upconverted and is not a true 1080P? Has anyone experienced this issue with a native 1080P resolution? My PS3 is not currently connected but I will include feedback if people still need it. Upconversion is not the same thing as 1080p otherwise we would not pay the extra bucks for Bluray.

Anyone else having trouble connecting to your home network or AirPlay?

When I navigate to the Network settings via the OSD it says I am connected, but when I select Home Network as the source it just says "connecting..." endlessly. Strange because I CAN connect to vTuner. I'm also having the same issue posted above where the Android remote app does not see my AVR, and I also cannot get AirPlay to show up in my iTunes which I heard is a result of iTunes not seeing the AVR on my network. Seems this thing is not discoverable. Any suggestions?
Edited by joeshmoe27 - 1/20/13 at 8:02pm

The Analog Devices chip in the 1700 does not upscale, whatever resolution comes in goes out...
480i IN > 480i OUT
720p IN > 720p OUT
1080i IN > 1080i OUT
1080p IN > 1080p OUT

Just my $0.02...

Hey I had this problem andi found out that if you go into you router settings and disable IGMP it will let airplay work as Welles the other functions. I have fios and have no problems working now. If you have any question feel free to ask

Can't thank you enough, that was the problem and all functions are working beautifully now. I did a little research first and there doesn't seem to be any danger in disabling IGMP but please let me know if you know differently. Have visited many apple forms where people can't find the AirPlay button and I bet this is the solution for them as well.

Thanks again.

After reviewing the AVR1700 schematic it appears that HDMI Inputs numbered 1, 2 and 3 go through an additional HDMI switch where HDMI inputs numbered 4,5 and 6 do not. This would imply that signal integrity is better maintained with the higher numbered HDMI inputs than that of the lower ones (Less jitter etc.). Also, the manufacturer of the IC used for the higher numbered inputs touts fast switching with Xpressview Fast Switching Technology.

Since HDMI inputs can be readily assigned, should we all be switching our preferred HDMI input connections to the higher numbered jacks?

Can someone help me understand an Hdmi splitter? I am considering using one for casual tv watching so I don't need to turn on the AVR. Do I run the splitter out of my cable box and then connect one Hdmi wire to the receiver and one to the tv? This way I'll have to change inputs when I want to watch tv with the AVR vs no AVR, correct?

Thanks in advance,

Mike

In theory, that should work. Does your TV have multiple HDMI inputs -- one for the normal receiver output and one for the HDMI coming off your cable box?

Also, I'm not an expert, but due to various digital copy protection schemes, it MAY or MAY not work due to HDCP. I'm not sure if it applies to cable boxes or not.

I was dinking around with my PS3 DISPLAY settings last night...At some point previously, I had changed the settings for RGB to FULL and Deep Color to OFF...

Last night, I changed the Deep Color to AUTOMATIC and the screen went black (even powering it down and restarting it, I still got a black screen). I had to do a system reset after connecting the PS3 directly to the TV to get everything back (it would not work when connected through the 1700 and I assume because Deep Color was set to AUTOMATIC)...

After the reset, the default setting for RGB was LIMITED and the default for Deep Color was AUTOMATIC. Once I changed the Deep Color to OFF, I was able to get the PS3 to work through the 1700. Once I got this working, I changed the RGB to FULL and everything appears back to normal now.

I have a slim 160GB with the latest PS3 updates if that makes any difference...

From earlier posts, it seems that some here have their PS3 set to AUTOMATIC for Deep Color and haven't had any issues...Is this still the case?

Indeed, I was referring to other's question about sending an upconverted signal to the AVR.

After your comments, I searched in the google for schematics. I guess you meant the other way. 1,2,3 goes via repeater and 4,5,6 goes via an additional switch to the repeater. Strange why they did it this way.

I had my PS3 set to automatic for DC and still had issues. My wife noticed them when watching an episode of Dora with my daughter (it was an SD episode) that my PS3 supposedly upconverted. I noticed it on a 1080P file of "Behind Enemy Lines". I can watch it one time and not have an issue, watch it later and have it. Random durations and at random times.

Not a problem, I haven't had any issues with it disabled, wish more people would figure this out cause a lot of reviews are negative bc of this.

You are correct. You have to switch in two places. TV HDMI input and AVR box input. There is one more way you can do it as well. Run optical or digital coax from your cable box to AVR and run the HDMI directly to the TV. AVR to TV will have another HDMI. In this case no splitter needed. You will still need to switch in two places, but at least this way you are better utilizing all the ports of the AVR and one HDMI input will be free in the AVR. If your TV has only HDMI port, you will have to take the first approach though.

The reviews should be negative because of this. The receiver says that it supports deep color. If it can't handle deep color correctly, it shouldn't say that it does...and as such, it deserves negative reviews.

EDIT: My bad. I thought he was replying to a post about deep color. Reading is FUNdamental.
Edited by U2Edge - 1/21/13 at 11:32am

He was responding to a post about AirPlay....

Good point. My bad. I've been reading a lot of threads about deep color. Got it on the brain. Apologies all around.

Wow it's like you read my mind. This was my next question. I have AT&T uverse and my old set up utilized what you just wrote and my wife and I could casually watch tv without my old onkyo receiver. My next question is: will I lose any sound quality switching from an Hdmi to an optical with the cable box when I want to watch cable with Dolby digital?

Nope, no loss with a cable box. The best they can put out is Dolby Digital 5.1 and optical can do that just as well as HDMI.

Great! Looking forward to setting this up after work!

I love my avr 1700 except I have it set up very weird to avoid a strange picture problem. I searched every where and have not read anyone with the same problem. I even returned it for another 1700 just in case but the problem is still there.

When all my devices go through the avr with hdmi i get a blinking picture when the resolution changes. The screen goes black then on over and over in a blinking sort of way. For example changing from sd to an hd channel. Or when the dvd goes from the menu screen to the bluray movie. It blinks and goes crazy. Same with my roku. Audio remains solid during the blinking. And all works fine if i plug the hdmi cables directly into the tv. During tinkering i've discovered that if i turn on audio to tv in the osd everything works great. Except my tv (sharp aquos 37d43u) does not have arc so i get no sound from the receiver this way.

For $199 i kept my second unit and just have video going directly into the tv and audio directly into the avr with no audio or video quality compromises but i would feel better if i didn't have the web of wires & splitters etc back there.

Any ideas? I haven't read anything like this happening to anyone else. I blame my tv!

Anyone having problems with picture quality from sources that aren't high definition? Just got this a month ago and paired it with a set of Take 5's and a BIC America sub. Loving it so far except for the time when I need to watch something that isn't HD. This accounts for standard definition television, DVDs that don't get up-converted by my player, Netflix streams that don't ramp up to high quality, and videos from my computer via HDMI that aren't HD. When I connect directly to the TV from any of these sources it looks fine but when I run it through the 1700 it makes it look unwatchable. It's that much of a difference. Blu-rays and HD TV look awesome and the sound is great. Any help or recommendations on the SD issues?

Because the Analog Devices HDMI Rx//Tx chip (same as used in the 1600/160) only had (3) HDMI inputs and to be competitive HK needed more inputs. And due to the tite budget constraints it didn't permit the use of the Silicon Image HDMI repeater chip as used in the 270/2700/370/3700 as it was $4 higher in cost....

Just my $0.02...

How long is your HDMI run and/or are you using a "cheap" cable? Only reason I ask is because my HD *and* SD content looked fine on my Sony receiver. When I switched out to the HK, HD was fine, but SD had "sparkles" in the video. After troubleshooting some on my own, I talked to a HK techie, told him what I had all done in my troubleshooting efforts, and he said that cables 15' or longer "aren't supported". I swapped out to a different 15' cable (better brand -- Blue Rigger) and my SD signal cleared up. So it might be the length and/or quality of your HDMI run to your TV.

You're right. I thought it was a bit odd, but upon a closer look, I see HK labeled HDMI 1 on the schematic as HDMI 6 (Connector JK1100). So to correct my earlier post, it would seem that HDMI inputs 1, 2 and 3 would have slightly better video quality than inputs 4,5 and 6.

For a receiver that's coming off the shelf for $199.00 I can't blame them. Do you have a link for the 270/2700/370/3700 service manual? I would like to see what an additional $500 gets you.

Thanks to the both of you for digging up schematics, etc. and knowing the ins and outs of the product. FWIW (and for those who care), the video flickering issue I have been experiencing has been primarily on my PS3 (which I have on HDMI input 3). I've also experienced it on HDMI 1 (my cable box input).

It's a 3 foot Amazon Basics HDMI cable. Also, I'm not getting sparkles. The picture is darker, more pixelated, and "dingy" looking. It's as if it takes the source and down-converts it. Anyone else?