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The new Harman Kardon AVR1700 - Page 15

post #421 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Faulkie View Post

For a receiver that's coming off the shelf for $199.00 I can't blame them. Do you have a link for the 270/2700/370/3700 service manual? I would like to see what an additional $500 gets you.

See my first post for the link here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1450096/2013-4k-harman-kardon-avr-2700-3700-receivers
post #422 of 786
The only real issue I am having with my 1700 is with the HK remote app for Android and iOS. The apps work great at first, but after a while neither the iOS version (Network Connection Exception) or the Android version (Connection Failed) will be able to connect to the 1700. It seems like the 1700 gets into a bad state, because resetting my iOS device, Android device, and router don't make a difference. Only power cycling the 1700 or unplugging/replugging the 1700's ethernet cable will fix things. This sounds like a software issue with the 1700s networking. Interestingly, Airplay will still work in this bad state. Hopefully HK will fix this in a software update.

Otherwise I am pretty happy with it.

It works well with my HTPC's ATI 7750--there haven't been any HDMI link issues even though I change the refresh rate all the time using dc.exe (my LCD is old and I have to switch between 24 and 60 Hz) and the switching is only a little slower than the LCD was when hooked directly. Also no HDMI EDID issues and I turn off/on my LCD quite a bit during an HTPC session.

I did fry my left and right Take Classic speakers due to the AirPlay volume snaffoo. That is my fault I guess, but I think it would be better if HK didn't honor the iTunes/iPod volume setting at all. Maybe this for next software update as well? Because of the frying I have been too timid to try EzSet/EQ.
post #423 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by FijiBill View Post

The only real issue I am having with my 1700 is with the HK remote app for Android and iOS. The apps work great at first, but after a while neither the iOS version (Network Connection Exception) or the Android version (Connection Failed) will be able to connect to the 1700. It seems like the 1700 gets into a bad state, because resetting my iOS device, Android device, and router don't make a difference. Only power cycling the 1700 or unplugging/replugging the 1700's ethernet cable will fix things.

I had the same issue and also heard of the 'unplugging the ethernet cable' fix, so I tried an easier way of doing the same thing and it seems to work - try toggling between manual and auto IP configuration in your network settings and click 'Apply and Save'. Still annoying, still takes a good 30 -60 seconds to make the switch, and will interupt airplay if you have it playing, but to me it's preferable to unplugging the ethernet cable and has worked both times I tried it.
post #424 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeshmoe27 View Post

Can anyone definitively answer the following?:

1. Can running HDMI through the AVR 1700 (or AVRs in general for that matter) result in any loss of picture quality? I have tried testing it by switching back and forth with the same movie scenes, and I can't be sure but it seems there might be additional blurring of image with motion, especially fast motion, but very little to no difference in a still picture; I also thought I noticed a slight increase in the delay/frozen picture when changing cable television channels - do either of these sound possible or even likely? Has anyone experienced this? The fact that I can barely notice a difference suggests I might be looking for something where there's nothing and also that, if there is loss of picture quality, it obviously is not very noticeable. Still would bother me a little knowing I might not be getting the best possible picture.

2. If I do NOT run HDMI through the AVR, but instead go directly to the TV (Samsung Smart LED TV) and run an optical audio cable back out of the TVto the AVR, is it true that I will NOT be able to get true surround sound? I've seen conflicting opinions, and I have tried both ways and I'm unable to tell the difference (complete novice when it comes to home theatre and audio systems).

My preference would be to run HDMI for cable, Blue Ray, and PS3 directly to the TV but I don't want to lose the surround sound.

3. For now I have settled on HDMI through the AVR, and I can't seem to get 5-channel stereo for basic cable stations - am I missing something?

That's it for now. Apologies for the novice-type questions, appreciate your thoughts.smile.gif

1. No, the only downgrade is the possible HDMI cabling between the 2, I had a similar issue with the Xbox 360, got a bit higher end cable, and, poof, no more lag.

2 Get cables with audio return capabilities, and should work fine.

When I say better cable, don't spend 150$/cable, but check online for some 10-12$ cables, they will be a massive improvement.

3. And use the OSD. And setup the TVs input to surround.
post #425 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by budgetocdnerd View Post


When I say better cable, don't spend 150$/cable, but check online for some 10-12$ cables, they will be a massive improvement.

I just got a 15' Blue Rigger cable from Amazon. The build quality on it was impressive. Really thick cabling, very sturdy. The reviews on them are nearly flawless.

It's more than the standard $1/ea monoprice cable without encroaching on the dreaded Monster Cable territory.
post #426 of 786
I have two 50' blue rigger cable, one from the dish network receiver to tv, another from HK AVR 1700 to tv. Both runs flawlessly. So even though hdmi spec says 15', for good quality cable it will not be a problem.
post #427 of 786
I've purchased ULTRA Series - High Speed HDMI Cables w/ Ethernet 3 and FLEX Series - High Speed HDMI Cables w/ Ethernet 3 all of them in 6 ft in length as my whole entertainment system is one close HK-1700 family. Cable, X360/HDdvd, PS3/BluRay, PC, DVD Player/Rec

- High Speed 10.2Gbps Transfer Rates
- 3D
- Ethernet Channel
- Audio Return Channel
- 4K x 2K Resolution
- 1440p, 1080p, 1080i, 720p, 480p, 480i
- Blu-Ray Disc and HD DVD
- DVD-audio
- Deep Color
- xvYCC
- Auto Lip-Sync
- sRGB
- YCbCr
- 8 Channel LPCM, 192 kHz, 24-bit Audio Capacity
- Updated CEC
- Super Audio CD (DSD)
- Dolby TrueHD
- DTS-HD Master Audio
- TV Refresh Rates: 60Hz, 120Hz, 240Hz, 480Hz, 600Hz, 900Hz

(Highly Recommended)
Great Site, Tons of info, Friendly & Useful Customer Service, Located in New Jersey
Direct link to HDMI cables> Click Here
post #428 of 786
Optical audio only has enough bandwidth to carry compressed Dolby Digital streams (like from a DVD). It can't carry uncompressed TrueHD streams like you would find on a BluRay disk--you would need to settle for the compressed Dolby Digital track instead (BluRays have both for this very reason).

So it depends what you define as true surround sound. For TrueHD, HDMI or analog out (yuck) is the only way.

FWIW I bet you could tell the difference between TrueHD and Dolby Digital.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeshmoe27 View Post

Can anyone definitively answer the following?:

2. If I do NOT run HDMI through the AVR, but instead go directly to the TV (Samsung Smart LED TV) and run an optical audio cable back out of the TVto the AVR, is it true that I will NOT be able to get true surround sound? I've seen conflicting opinions, and I have tried both ways and I'm unable to tell the difference (complete novice when it comes to home theatre and audio systems).
post #429 of 786
Maybe you guys can help me. I used the EQEZ set up with my energy rc micro speakers and my Polk psw10 sub and it set the crossover at 80hz for the fronts and rears and 100hz for the center. I read that since the frequency response is 150hz to 20khz I should set it to 150hz which is also what I've read through my research. Is this correct? Why did the AVR tune them to what I stated above? When I changed them all to 150hz I think I noticed a difference in a good way but it was late and it may have just been in my head. Anyhow, any help is greatly appreciated. Also, will playing the speakers with an incorrect crossover damage them?

Thanks in advance,

Mike
post #430 of 786
yes it could damage your speakers if you're sending them low frequencies it cannot handle.

your receiver may have set the crossover point that low because you have the speakers close to the wall, I would manually adjust the crossover.
post #431 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post

yes it could damage your speakers if you're sending them low frequencies it cannot handle.

your receiver may have set the crossover point that low because you have the speakers close to the wall, I would manually adjust the crossover.

They are all close to the wall. So I should set them all to 150hz?
post #432 of 786
How do I set the correct crossover for this receiver for my sub since it does not let me adjust how many hz to set it at? I read I need to set it at 160hz. On my psw10 I read to turn the frequency knob all the way up to activate the lfe. Now do I just play with the volume knob to get the right blend with my speakers?

Thanks in advance,

Mike
post #433 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiendog View Post

How do I set the correct crossover for this receiver for my sub since it does not let me adjust how many hz to set it at? I read I need to set it at 160hz. On my psw10 I read to turn the frequency knob all the way up to activate the lfe. Now do I just play with the volume knob to get the right blend with my speakers?

Thanks in advance,

Mike

I don't have that sub, but you can set the sub level in the osd, under manual setup, can't set the exact crossover level, but at the 10" level, the crossover will be set at 80-100 Hz, and honestly just adjust the volume you feel sounds the best

And just because the sub max frequency is 150, doesn't mean that it should be at that level, let your speakers do the work of the midrange, they will sound better than your sub trying to hit it's highest frequency
Edited by budgetocdnerd - 1/23/13 at 7:56pm
post #434 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by U2Edge View Post

I just got a 15' Blue Rigger cable from Amazon. The build quality on it was impressive. Really thick cabling, very sturdy. The reviews on them are nearly flawless.

It's more than the standard $1/ea monoprice cable without encroaching on the dreaded Monster Cable territory.

I'm not familiar with that particular cable, but it does have audio return channel?? That's the main question
post #435 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by budgetocdnerd View Post

I'm not familiar with that particular cable, but it does have audio return channel?? That's the main question

Yep, it says so in the title of all of them.
post #436 of 786
So in the settings, it wouldn't let you setup surround? In source setup in the OSD?
post #437 of 786
I set it as a 10" sub and adjusted the sub volume knob while testing with the Matrix Reloaded DVD. I think I set it nicely for now. It blends well with my speakers. Thanks for all your help. My next challenge is to research how to use the receiver's manual adjustment for the sub and the sub volume knob together to create an even better blend.
post #438 of 786
just so you know,. after doing days and days of research, i learned the following:

the crossover for an 8" speaker is set from 35hz-120 Hz
the crossover for an 10" speaker is set at 30hz-100 Hz
the crossover for an 12" speaker is set at 22hz-80hz

this is the setting on the receiver, when you select speaker size in the OSD under sub settings

And my suggestion is that you set the speaker crossover at 100Hz to match with the sub and not have interference on the same frequency
Edited by budgetocdnerd - 1/24/13 at 1:07am
post #439 of 786
where are you guys all seeing this receiver for $199??
post #440 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by truz055 View Post

where are you guys all seeing this receiver for $199??

It was on clearance for $199 at Best Buy. You might still be able to talk them into giving you the price.
post #441 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by budgetocdnerd View Post

just so you know,. after doing days and days of research, i learned the following:

the crossover for an 8" speaker is set from 35hz-120 Hz
the crossover for an 10" speaker is set at 30hz-100 Hz
the crossover for an 12" speaker is set at 22hz-80hz

I have a 12" and these sound fine to me...
Quote:
this is the setting on the receiver, when you select speaker size in the OSD under sub settings

And my suggestion is that you set the speaker crossover at 100Hz to match with the sub and not have interference on the same frequency

100Hz is high for a sub, I think - I'd set 80Hz or lower, depending on your sub and your fronts etc.
post #442 of 786
Yea, 100 is a bit high, but you don't want to have your speakers crossover too low
post #443 of 786
I guess the main reason for listing the crossover frequency was to give a feel for the target range of the speaker crossover, you don't really want to have 4" speakers trying for 80-100hz
post #444 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by budgetocdnerd View Post

I guess the main reason for listing the crossover frequency was to give a feel for the target range of the speaker crossover, you don't really want to have 4" speakers trying for 80-100hz

Here's my understanding. My speakers are listed with a frequency range of 150hz to 20khz so what I did was set my speakers to 150hz in the crossover manual adjustment OSD. My sub is listed at a frequency range of 35hz to 160hz and I set it to 10", because that's what size it is. I then set the frequency knob to its highest setting which I've been told enables LFE. Then I adjusted the volume knob on the sub while watching a DVD to blend with the speakers. Am I doing everything correctly? I read somewhere after I turn the frequency knob all the way up to set the volume knob at 50% then adjust the receiver. When I go into the OSD menu to adjust the sub it will only let me through test tones. Would I need a sound meter to adjust it correctly or can I leave it with how I originally set the knob to my liking with the DVD.

Hope this all make sense! lol

Thanks again,

Mike
post #445 of 786
Two things, one I figured out how to get get my Turtle Beach headset to work with all of my receiver connected HDMI devices!! In the OSD under System Setup you have to have "HDMI Audio to TV" set to on (with an optical cable from TV to base station). You have to manually switch it back and forth which resets the HDMI connection briefly.

Second, I bought a Slinglink Turbo 4-port powerline adapter since my modem is upstairs and my 1700 is downstairs. It works flawlessly to provide an Internet connection.
post #446 of 786
Looks like Frys has them for $199 this week...even has free shipping..

http://www.frys.com/product/7372554
post #447 of 786
just wonder if this amp good with infinity Primus 363 speaker? the speak is 200 watt, but the amp only 100watt per channel. i dont have a big room two would that be enough? or do u guy have any recomandation?
Edited by tech123 - 1/25/13 at 7:46am
post #448 of 786
speakers don't have wattage, amps do! The recommended power range is from 10-200 watts.

From Crutchfields site.
Quote:
The range of input power (in watts RMS per channel) the loudspeaker is designed to handle. Using an amp within this range ensures nominal performance.

Depending on the size of the room and how loud you listen to everything you may never need more than 25-40 watts to power those speakers.
Edited by afrogt - 1/25/13 at 7:44am
post #449 of 786
Quote:
Originally Posted by spacejamz View Post

Looks like Frys has them for $199 this week...even has free shipping..

http://www.frys.com/product/7372554

Their Friday ad prices are good through the following Tuesday.
post #450 of 786
Hey everyone I have some questions/problems this AVR and was hoping you could help:

1) I can not figure out how to get ARC back from my Samsung Smart TV. I am using the correct HDMI in on my TV for ARC, and the TV setting on the AVR does not have sound. Through the set-up for the AVR, the TV component set-up does not allow you to select Audio - from the mannual it says that ARC will be enabled automatically for the TV setting. Also, I don't see anything about ARC in the Audio set-up on the Samsung. It's a new Samsung and the HDMI port is labled ARC so I assume it is capable. I have looked in every setting and looked for guides on the internet but there is nothing in my menus about ARC in the Samsung. I am now using the Optical out from the TV back to the AVR.

My HDMI cable is also latest version.

2) A problem - when watching TV, the audio drops on the reciever when there is a commercial. For example, a commercial will be playing, the commercial will end, but there will not be a seamless transition to the new commercial or even the TV programming coming back from the commercial break. Not a huge issue but it is noticeable and draws attention. I also noticed this during the NFL games. When the mics were changing on the field it would drop. It's like the reciever takes a second to figure out what type of audio is being sent.


Thanks
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