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**The Official Chane M&C 'Arx' owner's thread (A1, A1b, A2, A2b, A3, A5, etc.)** - Page 2

post #31 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

The A1b's were missing the plugs as well. I wonder if that's something Jon is going to have to get fixed.

We're happy to mail em on request. Yours are on the way, Jim.

We're going to include them in original shipments in the future but for now, they live in a really big box at our secondary address and do not deliver with the speakers themselves..
post #32 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post

I have been running them full-range for the entirety of time that I've had them and they have NEVER given me a problem.

My Arcam AVR-300 has a 1.2kw toroidal power supply transformer, good heat-sinking, and 48,000uf of capacitance.

For movies, I typically rec getting an outboard amp (like an Emotiva) for running the A5's full range at reference on action movies. I have had zero issues. Nothing but clean, loud sound.

You consistently cause the warranty office concern, Buford, but so far they haven't had much to do. We had a pinholed woofer surround once that QC missed.

To everyone else, it's hard for a manufacturer to put into words how a product should be used so as to optimize enjoyment and minimize trouble, but I think we can say that even the five-driver Arx A5 was not specifically intended to be a reference-level device. It's a fairly compact tower and in electrical terms a fairly conventional arrangement of 5 unusual drivers in a three-way system. That said, they go loud and don't break which owes to all of the drivers being strong devices used in sensible moderation.

BufordTJustice's experiences can at times be on the bleeding edge but he hasn't submitted anything for service. Yet.
post #33 of 494
Jon I have a question. Someone on the forums said using the plugs can damage the drivers if played at high levels. Is this true? I've had your ARX's for about 10 months now and never experienced any type of downfall and I have played them loud! I have the A3 as F/R, A2 as center, and A1 as SR/SL. I have them set as small in the AVR and using the port plugs. Thanks in advance.

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post #34 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Lane View Post

We're happy to mail em on request. Yours are on the way, Jim.

Yup, got them already. Love the compression packaging... tongue.gif
post #35 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsm1212 View Post

Couple of questions:
1. I have the denon set to large speakers for these A5's. Is that correct? The bass coming out of them is really impressive.

I keep my A5s set to 60hrz all the time. If I was you I would keep them set to small and cross at 50 or 60hrz and let the subwoofer do the rest. The A5s are only tuned to 52hrz so IMO not a great idea to run them full range or with a crossover lower than 50hrz.
post #36 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

Jon I have a question. Someone on the forums said using the plugs can damage the drivers if played at high levels. Is this true? I've had your ARX's for about 10 months now and never experienced any type of downfall and I have played them loud! I have the A3 as F/R, A2 as center, and A1 as SR/SL. I have them set as small in the AVR and using the port plugs. Thanks in advance.
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It was probably me who said that. I had excursion issues with the A2s as mains, although it was only during one or two quick movie scenes (Transformers 2 and Dark Knight). I though plugging the ports would cut down on the excursion of the woofers, but Jon mentioned that the cabinet volume for the Arx models is too large when sealed to keep the woofers under control. To run the Arx models as a sealed system they really should have much smaller internal cabinet volume. IMO the plugs are worth much and IMO offered no change in sound.
post #37 of 494
So if my A3 (F/R) and A2 (C) are more than 6 inches from the wall and slightly angled inward toward the main listening position I should keep the Ports open? I'm also running a HSU VTF3 MK4 with the system.

Another thing, should I angle the center speaker up a little if its slightly lower in height to the listening position?

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post #38 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

Someone on the forums said using the plugs can damage the drivers if played at high levels. Is this true?

A sealed system doesn't have the excursion cancellation a tuned bass reflex system has so if you were to drive the Arx or any sealed system very hard fullrange and exceed the cone's motion limit you could damage the driver. Opening the tuned port provides an oscillating air slug to oppose the cone travel and at the tuned resonance, reduce it to nearly zero. However, below that tuned frequency the opposite occurs, as the tuned port unloads and now the cone "sees" an open box with no air spring.

The short answer is that at very low frequencies the sealed system offers better control, but above those frequencies the open-port bass reflex system does.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

I've had your ARX's for about 10 months now and never experienced any type of downfall and I have played them loud! I have the A3 as F/R, A2 as center, and A1 as SR/SL. I have them set as small in the AVR and using the port plugs. Thanks in advance.

Setting them to small provided electronic excursion protection, which is the same as mechanical control. Here you have built one of the systems we talk about in the Arx User Guide, which is a pair of overlapping high pass functions, one naturally occurring in the speaker and the other provided by your electronics. When these are set up right they can be among the best compromises.
post #39 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

Yup, got them already. Love the compression packaging... tongue.gif

Vacuum packed for your protection...
post #40 of 494
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Lane View Post

You consistently cause the warranty office concern, Buford, but so far they haven't had much to do. We had a pinholed woofer surround once that QC missed.
To everyone else, it's hard for a manufacturer to put into words how a product should be used so as to optimize enjoyment and minimize trouble, but I think we can say that even the five-driver Arx A5 was not specifically intended to be a reference-level device. It's a fairly compact tower and in electrical terms a fairly conventional arrangement of 5 unusual drivers in a three-way system. That said, they go loud and don't break which owes to all of the drivers being strong devices used in sensible moderation.
BufordTJustice's experiences can at times be on the bleeding edge but he hasn't submitted anything for service. Yet.

Very true, Jon. I can't argue one bit.

I've generally found that loudspeakers receive the most abuse during movie watching, which is why I recommend a high pass x-over in one's AVR for that use.

Jon, you did say you wanted me to test every aspect of the A5's. I'm keeping my promise. wink.gif

As for all the others reading, please don't abuse your equipment. The Arx series tolerates a LOT of it before it breaks. If you've damaged an Arx midwoofer, midrange, or tweeter, it's been abused. Period. Unless it was misbehaving from the start, it was damaged from misuse. Please also note that misuse can be the clipping of a current-limited home receiver during an action movie.....it's your job to know what your equipment is capable of and what you are asking your speakers to do. Just a friendly warning. I know nearly all of you are responsible adults and would never knowingly abuse a piece of equipment that YOU payed for. But alas....
post #41 of 494
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

I keep my A5s set to 60hrz all the time. If I was you I would keep them set to small and cross at 50 or 60hrz and let the subwoofer do the rest. The A5s are only tuned to 52hrz so IMO not a great idea to run them full range or with a crossover lower than 50hrz.

Not to further excite Jon's warranty sensibilities, but I've played plenty of bass mechanik 'the future is bass' through the A5's with them set to full range and no sub in the mix. The Arx midwoofers have ample x-mech and the A5's have a graceful rolloff below about 38hz in my room. I've never had a driver bottom. I've played the same album at the same gain with the A5's set to 'small' with no additional clarity, impact, improvement in soundstage, or improvement of any other positive trait. If somebody has the ability to match phase in the bass region between the sub and the A5's, and their amp has the current reserves available, I don't see a reason NOT to run in this mode for music other than pure personal preference (which I'm not deriding at all).

I often find myself just turning my sub off for music listening....even though the HSU is a great performer on music. Different strokes for different folks.
post #42 of 494
I see you guys talking about setting your A5 to 60hz. Looking at my AVR my bass cross over is at 80hz. For the A3 should I set my cross over to 60hz as well?

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post #43 of 494
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

I see you guys talking about setting your A5 to 60hz. Looking at my AVR my bass cross over is at 80hz. For the A3 should I set my cross over to 60hz as well?
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I would recommend experimenting with 60hz for the A3's as well.
post #44 of 494
Thread Starter 
Ok, the more I think about it, here is where I'm at on the abuse/reference level/extreme high volume issue.

I'm a Deputy Sheriff in Orlando, FL. As a cop, I have to cover a large area and have to cover long distances in my patrol vehicle.

I'm fully aware that some vehicle tires have a speed rating.....a rated speed wherein that tire is guaranteed to perform safely and as-advertised. For instance, some tires have an R speed rating which guarantees safe performance up to 106 miles per hour. I can verify that these tires indeed will perform with composure to over 135mph on a long, flat highway. However, the tire that is properly rated for that speed range would be a V-rated tire. Due to over engineering and quality materials, the R rated tire from a quality manufacturer will often perform well past its original design envelope.

In terms of the A5 (and really ANY consumer loudspeaker), it will often greatly exceed its "speed rating" and play much louder than it was originally intended to play. It will make your ears hurt....and usually do it while maintaining an admirably low level of distortion. However, don't misinterpret its raw capabilities with its intended design parameters. This can be said of nearly every loudspeaker on the market today.

I'm not sure how to phrase it, but the Arx series often plays out of its league (in a good way). As Jon said, there is NO replacement for displacement (cone area and cabinet volume).
Edited by BufordTJustice - 12/1/12 at 6:22pm
post #45 of 494
I'd like to pull this next remark out of context and use it to address some others in the thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post

...if somebody has the ability to match phase in the bass region between the sub and the A5's...

Any ripple-free mesh between mains and bass system takes phase agreement. Understanding this can add options to your setup, as we've been covering in this thread a bit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

I see you guys talking about setting your A5 to 60hz. Looking at my AVR my bass cross over is at 80hz. For the A3 should I set my cross over to 60hz as well?

Your ideal setup takes some experimentation. There are ways to make everything more or less agree in terms of levels - getting that flat frequency response you room-correct and speaker-correct to get - but getting the phase right in the transfer function between mains and bass system should start with a goal. That goal is the common 80Hz 4th order/24dB per octave LR response function, which is ripple free through the crossover region and has constant power.

How we get it is where the options come in and this is where your electronics and therefore your choices will vary.

The easiest way to approximate it with a speaker that hopefully has another octave of natural output below 80Hz is to just set everything electronically fo 4th order, 80Hz. Not perfect but close enough. We'll ignore the natural rolloff function of the speakers lower down and have the electronics do this work. This is a common, virtually plug and play option.

The other way to get it - which goes back to your question, SmokenAshes - is to greatly reduce the rolloff rate of the main speakers from the bass reflex rate of approximately 24dB/Octave to half that rate in a new sealed system, one we get by stopping the bass reflex ports. We raise the rolloff frequency substantially, but we get only half the rate of attenuation, which now will be 12dB/Octave.

Now we just need to add another 12dB/Octave of electronic attenuation to get to our ideal. Once that's done, we set the sub to the common 24dB/Octave and now we have approximated a flat summation. To do so you'd need a setting related to the "small speaker" switch that grants only 12dB/Octave of rolloff rate, and since we've raised the main speaker's rolloff frequency by stopping the ports, we'll probably still want to be up around 80Hz. Although, as BufordTJustice notes,
Quote:
Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post

I would recommend experimenting with 60hz for the A3's as well.

You'll want to experiment and if you also have the freedom to adjust your electronic crossover's frequency, start around 80Hz and then start moving down until you hear a discontinuity between the mains and the sub. If you do, raise that frequency until the sound warms excessively in the upper bass and dial back down again. You can also use your room EQ to find this relationship visually on a measurement scale. Measuring can be crucial and very informative, but how things sound is always king. Further, rooms are notorious for fouling up your best plans, especially in the bass.

If you go through this ritual, you may find that your plugged-port setup sounds cleaner than leaving the ports open, getting a sharp speaker cutoff lower down but risking added ripple in the response. Ripple is ringing, which means that the overall system is storing energy and muddying your sound.

(There are also all sorts of setup routines, features, and options in modern electronics so please realize that all of the above relates to a theoretical best case, simple method. Experts are solicited for added information on alternative setups.)

The desired combined function mentioned is how a purist sees the phase and level relationship between any two drivers in a multi-driver system. We've written about this in the Arx User Guide.
post #46 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by BufordTJustice View Post

Due to over engineering and quality materials, the R rated tire from a quality manufacturer will often perform well past its original design envelope.

Good analogy. Way back in the day I punished a little 6.5" Audax 2-way with four times the manufacturer's power rating for months and never broke a speaker. The trick is to not clip anything and to use very clean sources all the way up the chain.

Arx will behave the same - excepting that double gaps and lots of metal in the motor will can sink a lot more thermal input than convention - and clean power, which you have, and clean sources (ditto) mean everything.
post #47 of 494
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Lane View Post

I'd like to pull this next remark out of context and use it to address some others in the thread:
Any ripple-free mesh between mains and bass system takes phase agreement. Understanding this can add options to your setup, as we've been covering in this thread a bit.
Your ideal setup takes some experimentation. There are ways to make everything more or less agree in terms of levels - getting that flat frequency response you room-correct and speaker-correct to get - but getting the phase right in the transfer function between mains and bass system should start with a goal. That goal is the common 80Hz 4th order/24dB per octave LR response function, which is ripple free through the crossover region and has constant power.
How we get it is where the options come in and this is where your electronics and therefore your choices will vary.
The easiest way to approximate it with a speaker that hopefully has another octave of natural output below 80Hz is to just set everything electronically fo 4th order, 80Hz. Not perfect but close enough. We'll ignore the natural rolloff function of the speakers lower down and have the electronics do this work. This is a common, virtually plug and play option.
The other way to get it - which goes back to your question, SmokenAshes - is to greatly reduce the rolloff rate of the main speakers from the bass reflex rate of approximately 24dB/Octave to half that rate in a new sealed system, one we get by stopping the bass reflex ports. We raise the rolloff frequency substantially, but we get only half the rate of attenuation, which now will be 12dB/Octave.
Now we just need to add another 12dB/Octave of electronic attenuation to get to our ideal. Once that's done, we set the sub to the common 24dB/Octave and now we have approximated a flat summation. To do so you'd need a setting related to the "small speaker" switch that grants only 12dB/Octave of rolloff rate, and since we've raised the main speaker's rolloff frequency by stopping the ports, we'll probably still want to be up around 80Hz. Although, as BufordTJustice notes,
You'll want to experiment and if you also have the freedom to adjust your electronic crossover's frequency, start around 80Hz and then start moving down until you hear a discontinuity between the mains and the sub. If you do, raise that frequency until the sound warms excessively in the upper bass and dial back down again. You can also use your room EQ to find this relationship visually on a measurement scale. Measuring can be crucial and very informative, but how things sound is always king. Further, rooms are notorious for fouling up your best plans, especially in the bass.
If you go through this ritual, you may find that your plugged-port setup sounds cleaner than leaving the ports open, getting a sharp speaker cutoff lower down but risking added ripple in the response. Ripple is ringing, which means that the overall system is storing energy and muddying your sound.
(There are also all sorts of setup routines, features, and options in modern electronics so please realize that all of the above relates to a theoretical best case, simple method. Experts are solicited for added information on alternative setups.)
The desired combined function mentioned is how a purist sees the phase and level relationship between any two drivers in a multi-driver system. We've written about this in the Arx User Guide.

I do this with my A2 center. I use the port plug and run it full-range. It is a different distance from the rear wall than the A5's, which remain un-plugged (to coin a phrase), which means it also has a different delay setting my AVR. It gives the most even response when measured via RTA AND it sounds the best (warm and full without bloat).

Experimentation is key.
post #48 of 494
Mind blown

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post #49 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

Mind blown

Send us an email or call and we'll help fix that.
post #50 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Lane View Post

I'd like to pull this next remark out of context and use it to address some others in the thread:
Any ripple-free mesh between mains and bass system takes phase agreement. Understanding this can add options to your setup, as we've been covering in this thread a bit.
Your ideal setup takes some experimentation. There are ways to make everything more or less agree in terms of levels - getting that flat frequency response you room-correct and speaker-correct to get - but getting the phase right in the transfer function between mains and bass system should start with a goal. That goal is the common 80Hz 4th order/24dB per octave LR response function, which is ripple free through the crossover region and has constant power.
How we get it is where the options come in and this is where your electronics and therefore your choices will vary.
The easiest way to approximate it with a speaker that hopefully has another octave of natural output below 80Hz is to just set everything electronically fo 4th order, 80Hz. Not perfect but close enough. We'll ignore the natural rolloff function of the speakers lower down and have the electronics do this work. This is a common, virtually plug and play option.
The other way to get it - which goes back to your question, SmokenAshes - is to greatly reduce the rolloff rate of the main speakers from the bass reflex rate of approximately 24dB/Octave to half that rate in a new sealed system, one we get by stopping the bass reflex ports. We raise the rolloff frequency substantially, but we get only half the rate of attenuation, which now will be 12dB/Octave.
Now we just need to add another 12dB/Octave of electronic attenuation to get to our ideal. Once that's done, we set the sub to the common 24dB/Octave and now we have approximated a flat summation. To do so you'd need a setting related to the "small speaker" switch that grants only 12dB/Octave of rolloff rate, and since we've raised the main speaker's rolloff frequency by stopping the ports, we'll probably still want to be up around 80Hz. Although, as BufordTJustice notes,
You'll want to experiment and if you also have the freedom to adjust your electronic crossover's frequency, start around 80Hz and then start moving down until you hear a discontinuity between the mains and the sub. If you do, raise that frequency until the sound warms excessively in the upper bass and dial back down again. You can also use your room EQ to find this relationship visually on a measurement scale. Measuring can be crucial and very informative, but how things sound is always king. Further, rooms are notorious for fouling up your best plans, especially in the bass.
If you go through this ritual, you may find that your plugged-port setup sounds cleaner than leaving the ports open, getting a sharp speaker cutoff lower down but risking added ripple in the response. Ripple is ringing, which means that the overall system is storing energy and muddying your sound.
(There are also all sorts of setup routines, features, and options in modern electronics so please realize that all of the above relates to a theoretical best case, simple method. Experts are solicited for added information on alternative setups.)
The desired combined function mentioned is how a purist sees the phase and level relationship between any two drivers in a multi-driver system. We've written about this in the Arx User Guide.

I just want to say that I find your posts to be among the most informative and educational of all here on AVS Jon, thanks!
post #51 of 494
Jon,

Ok what I get from your very informative post and well above my intellectual capacity is yes to me the speakers sound cleaner with the ports plugged. I don't know why or if its in my head but they do sound cleaner, subtle but cleaner. My thing is I don't want to damage the speakers by having them plugged and playing them at high levels. Right now I have the cross over set at 80hz with the Hsu VTF 3 MK4. So not much bass is going to the speakers. All speakers are set to small in the AVR. So I don't know, I've been driving myself crazy with this, like I have audio OCD or something lol. But I appreciate your input Jon.

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post #52 of 494
Thread Starter 
A great article on phase:

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/phase.html


An easy way to calculate adjustment via your AVR.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/phase3.html


All credit to Rhythmik:

"1. First determine crossover point. In this example: 80 Hz

2. Next you need the phase shift of your main speaker relative to your subwoofer. In this example we will use the phase shift shown in Figure 4 below for the main speaker of 135 degrees. The subwoofer is -180 degrees at this point. This means we need to add a phase shift of -45 degrees to the subwoofer to get phase aligned with the front speakers. 45 degrees is one eighth of a cycle.

3. Calculate the distance of one wavelength at the crossover point by the following formula:

wavelength = 344 / frequency- (metres)

wavelength = 344 / 80

wavelength = 4.3m

4. Now convert phase shift into cycles

cycles = phase shift / 360

cycles = -45 /360

cycles = -0.125

5. Now multiply the number of cycles by the wavelength

In this case the distance compensation is -0.125 x 4.3 = -0.5m

In other words, the distance setting on the subwoofer should be adjusted so that we add this number to the physical distance. If your subwoofer is placed 4 metres from your listening position, then you should enter 3.5 m. The sign of distance adjustment is very important. "
post #53 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

...the speakers sound cleaner with the ports plugged. My thing is I don't want to damage the speakers by having them plugged and playing them at high levels. Right now I have the cross over set at 80hz with the Hsu VTF 3 MK4.

You're fine - the 80Hz 4th order highpass is giving you all the mechanical protection you need. We only concern ourselves with cone excursion running the mains fullrange and loud, even with SplitGap.
post #54 of 494
Hey all. I just started on the path to find some awesome speakers. I have a Denon AVR-1712 on the way and now I am looking to match it with a pair of @$300 bookshelf speakers. At some point I would like to add a subwoofer, maybe a center channel, for a 2.1 or 3.1 setup.

I've researched for several hours and the Arx A1b has come up often. Two other speakers that have been mentioned frequently are the Ascend CBM-170 SE and HSU HB-1 MK2. I've put these on my short list with the possibility of adding more as my research continues. For now I want to concentrate on these three. If you guys could provide some insight on these speakers it would be much appreciated. It is not my intention to detract attention away from the Arx's, so I hope asking is OK. I got sucked into this thread and found it very informative so I thought I'd ask for some help

I have a fairly small, less than ideal room measuring 11x11x8 with carpet flooring. My TV is centered on one wall approximately 17" from said wall. Speaker placement would be roughly 4 1/2-5 ft apart. If I placed them a little in front of the screen I could get them 2, maybe 3 ft, from the wall. I say maybe 3 ft because at that distance I don't know if they would be too close to me. My viewing position is 7-8 ft from the screen near the opposite wall on my bed. I intend to use the speakers for movies, games, and music.
post #55 of 494
I'm listening to some Arx speakers at this very moment -- I have an A2b and a pair of A1b's for review -- and at this point they have at least 30 hours on them, so they should be completely broken in and giving me their all.

Without a sub you're going to want them running as bass reflex, meaning open rear port, so they will need to be away from the back wall. Your proposed 2-3 feet should be fine though. I had to place them closer, and they weren't very happy about it, so most of my review will be with them running acoustic suspension (sealed). Separating them by only 4-5 feet isn't ideal, based upon my experience, but they won't sound bad either. They tend to have a pretty wide soundstage, so only sitting 7-8 feet away shouldn't be an issue.

I'm not going to say much else -- you'll have to wait until the review comes out in order to hear the rest wink.gif -- but I can tell you this much; with the clarity and detail the A1b's have they should cost more then $300.
post #56 of 494
Have you had a chance to take them apart and check out that big midwoofer? Once you see how nice those drivers are and how neat and professional the crossovers are you start to question, why isn't it a $500 bookshelf.

p3Orion if you get a chance stop by the Audio Insider, Arx forum and pm jnori. He has experience with both Ascend 170s/340s and Arx A1b and A5s. Might be able to give you alittle insight on pros/cons of each.
post #57 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

Have you had a chance to take them apart and check out that big midwoofer? Once you see how nice those drivers are and how neat and professional the crossovers are you start to question, why isn't it a $500 bookshelf.

Not as of yet, but I will. I save the disassembly and photography portion to the very end of the review, just in case something goes wrong when I take it apart. wink.gif

I've been using the Arx speakers with the PSA XS15 subwoofer I'm also reviewing. This is one very nice combo, that's for sure.
post #58 of 494
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by p3Orion View Post

Hey all. I just started on the path to find some awesome speakers. I have a Denon AVR-1712 on the way and now I am looking to match it with a pair of @$300 bookshelf speakers. At some point I would like to add a subwoofer, maybe a center channel, for a 2.1 or 3.1 setup.

I've researched for several hours and the Arx A1b has come up often. Two other speakers that have been mentioned frequently are the Ascend CBM-170 SE and HSU HB-1 MK2. I've put these on my short list with the possibility of adding more as my research continues. For now I want to concentrate on these three. If you guys could provide some insight on these speakers it would be much appreciated. It is not my intention to detract attention away from the Arx's, so I hope asking is OK. I got sucked into this thread and found it very informative so I thought I'd ask for some help

I have a fairly small, less than ideal room measuring 11x11x8 with carpet flooring. My TV is centered on one wall approximately 17" from said wall. Speaker placement would be roughly 4 1/2-5 ft apart. If I placed them a little in front of the screen I could get them 2, maybe 3 ft, from the wall. I say maybe 3 ft because at that distance I don't know if they would be too close to me. My viewing position is 7-8 ft from the screen near the opposite wall on my bed. I intend to use the speakers for movies, games, and music.

I think you'll find that the A1b's along with all Arx products perform well above their price and size. Nothing bad to say about the Ascends as they are excellent speakers.

Jnordi can give you some insight.

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post #59 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

I'm listening to some Arx speakers at this very moment -- I have an A2b and a pair of A1b's for review -- and at this point they have at least 30 hours on them, so they should be completely broken in and giving me their all.
Without a sub you're going to want them running as bass reflex, meaning open rear port, so they will need to be away from the back wall. Your proposed 2-3 feet should be fine though. I had to place them closer, and they weren't very happy about it, so most of my review will be with them running acoustic suspension (sealed). Separating them by only 4-5 feet isn't ideal, based upon my experience, but they won't sound bad either. They tend to have a pretty wide soundstage, so only sitting 7-8 feet away shouldn't be an issue.
I'm not going to say much else -- you'll have to wait until the review comes out in order to hear the rest wink.gif -- but I can tell you this much; with the clarity and detail the A1b's have they should cost more then $300.

Once I get a sub how would I want them running? Would the option of having the port open or closed change with a sub? I guess that decision would be based on how far from the wall they are. Would having a sub give me more leeway as far as distance from the wall behind is concerned?

What distance apart from one another would be ideal? Or in my situation what's the smallest distance apart that would yield great sound? I could always place them farther apart during critical listening and then place them out of the way when not in use.

I will be eagerly anticipation your review.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post

but I can tell you this much; with the clarity and detail the A1b's have they should cost more then $300.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

Have you had a chance to take them apart and check out that big midwoofer? Once you see how nice those drivers are and how neat and professional the crossovers are you start to question, why isn't it a $500 bookshelf.

Shhh!!! Don't give them any ideas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

p3Orion if you get a chance stop by the Audio Insider, Arx forum and pm jnori. He has experience with both Ascend 170s/340s and Arx A1b and A5s. Might be able to give you alittle insight on pros/cons of each.

Will do. Thank you. wink.gif
post #60 of 494
Quote:
Originally Posted by p3Orion View Post

Once I get a sub how would I want them running? Would the option of having the port open or closed change with a sub? I guess that decision would be based on how far from the wall they are. Would having a sub give me more leeway as far as distance from the wall behind is concerned?

The distance from the back wall would probably dictate if you plug the port more then anything else, because a sub is essentially a personal preference. I wouldn't run these without one - I simply can't imagine myself not having a subwoofer - but you may feel the A1b's are perfectly adequate all by themselves.

Since the port is rear-firing it does need a little space to "exhale" into, otherwise the sound loses some definition (which has proven to be a strong suit of these speakers). I had that exact issue, because my placement mandates the enclosure be less then a foot from the rear wall, so plugging the port was mandatory for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by p3Orion View Post

What distance apart from one another would be ideal? Or in my situation what's the smallest distance apart that would yield great sound? I could always place them farther apart during critical listening and then place them out of the way when not in use.

I don't think your proposed distances are necessarily bad, just not ideal. The A1b's seem to thrive on space, but that doesn't mean they can't perform in a more confined area.

To provide you with a more accurate answer I experimented by moving them 5 feet apart and then sat about 10 feet away, trying to approximate your setup. The sound took on a more condensed feel but the detail and clarity was virtually identical.
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