The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 8

on-line or local dealer? I am interested in one if I can find a good price

Local dealer

Can I no longer connect the Denon 3930 (awesome for CD and SACD) via DenonLink to the 4520? Whatever happened to backwards compatibility? Any simple adapters for DenonLink 3 ?

No, and no adapter's either .............. I don't like this at all as I would still like to utilize my 2930 and Denon Link ...........analog cables if I want SACD in 5.1.
Edited by JKR1963 - 10/2/12 at 11:05pm

I just wish I was seeing larger capacitors for the Power Supply...

Chucka

lol...

yea, it is... ol' mr. electron is certainly getting a workout in that box...

+ 1
It's a machine, that is built to a cost. A cost recovery program... I am still looking for reason to replace my 4311.. let's hope I hear more to justify it, or I will either keep the 4311 or wait for the AV 8801..

Yeah for as much as I'd love to spend $2,000+ on a new AVR right now, it would simply be insane to dump the 4311 and move "up" to this.

Never mind I'm still deeply peeved (lmao) over the omission of 2 channel digital to the zones on the 4520.

But good luck to everyone with this certain to be fine machine.

James

The 4520 will do things for your sound a universe beyond anything possible with your 4311. The best thing you can do is to send that ancient archaic piece of junk to me so I can retire it lovingly in my media room and spare you the raucous sound whilst you enjoy your new 4520. I'll even pay shipping.

If you're ever inclined to open it up again, I'd sure like to know which ADC chip Denon is using.

Thanks, I've been meaning to ask about this feature. Def has me sold on it.

It is people like you who restore my faith in humanity. You are willing to sacrifice yourself for others. Brings a tear to my eye! :sniff:

 Setting up my 4520.  During this project, I opened my 4520, my 4311, and my 4308 and wrote down the chips that I could see.  FWIW, here is my list:

 

AVR-4520CI:

• Analog Devices Sharc ADSP-21487 (processor) (quantity 3)
• MX T121945
• Altera MAXV (CPLD)
• Analog Devices ADV8003 (video)
• Analog Devices ADV 7850 (video)

AVR-4311CI:

• Anchor Bay VRS ABT2015BG316
• Analog Devices Sharc ADSP-21367 (processor)
• Altera MAXII
• Analog Devices Sharc 21487
• Analog Devices ADV7840
• Winbond W9425G8EH-5
• Analog Devices ADV2511 (quantity 2)

AVR-4308CI:

• Altera CycloneII EP2C35F484C8N
• Silicon Image Vastlane
• Genesis FLI2310-LF
• Analog Devices Sharc ADSP-21367 (processor)

 

More info to come (running Audyssey calibration right now).

So the 4520CI uses the same processor as the XX13 models, all be it (3) of them.

Anybody have info on what exactly each of these chips does? What about the improvements from gen to gen?

I was just comparing the ADSP-21487 (from the 4520) ot the ADSP-21367 (from the 4311) on the the Analog devices site. I don't understand much of it. (Thought it was interesting that the 21367 has a 32-bit interface but the newer 21487 has only a 16-bit interface, maybe due to a smaller die size).

My setup of the new 4520 has come to a halt, and I don't think it is good news.

 

I was running a Pro calibration and stopped after three measuring points to check the status, and here is what I saw:

 

 

Note that the right channel trim and distance are peculiar.  The actual right channel distance is exactly the same as the left channel (9.5 ft), and the trim should be roughly the same as well.  Knowing something was amiss, I canceled the calibration, opened the Setup menu, and ran the speaker audio test tones.  When the right channel test tone played, it sounded somewhat distorted, and almost immediately, the AVR powered down with a fault indicator (blinking red power light).  I tried the test tone again, and I immediately got the fault indicator again.

 

So, now I am in trouble-shooting mode.  I checked the surround right speaker cables and connectors, and everything looked fine.  I unplugged the right surround speaker cables and replaced them with the left channel cables.  Same problem--immediate fault indicator.  Next, I ran a network configuration save and reset the processor.  After reconnecting the right surround cables, I ran the audio test tones again.  This time, the right surround channel was completely dead--no sound, no fault indicator.  I tried a second processor reset, but the right surround channel was still dead.

 

Unfortunately, it looks like I have received a defective unit which I will need to RMA, unless someone else has an idea.  It is really unfortunate, because I spent a considerable amount of time un-installing my 4311 and re-installing it in my bedroom system, including running a full Audyssey calibration.  I have wasted an entire day, only to have discovered that I have a dud.  Very disappointing.

 

On the positive side, I am sitting here this evening (audio in stereo mode with no Audyssey), exploring some of the features of the 4520.  Here are some of my initial thoughts:

 

- Nice build quality.  I would have a hard time telling whether the front panel is aluminum or plastic--it looks fine to me.  I don't know why people are obsessed with having metal face plates (no offense Jevansoh...)

- Nice remote.  Denon is getting better with their remotes.

- The layout of the back panel has changed just enough to make it somewhat difficult to pull the 4311 and replace it with the 4520.  Some of my cables didn't quite reach the new connector locations on the 4520, requiring more cable work than I had expected.

- The four-port network hub is very handy.

- The input names are somewhat different than the 4311, which will require some re-programming of the Harmony remote.  Not a huge deal, but just more work.

- Tried InstaPreview.  On my 52" LCD flat panel, the windows are too small to be useful.  Somewhat disappointing.

- The GUI is obviously different than the 4311 GUI.  Although reasonably intuitive, I still had trouble finding things I wanted to adjust.  For example, my volume control is configured incorrectly--it goes from 0 to 100 instead of being offset from reference like I am accustomed to, and I couldn't find where to change it.  I'm sure that once I get used to the GUI, I'll like it as well.

- The text on the front panel display looks larger.  It is much easier to read from where I sit, approximately 10 feet away.

- I couldn't tell much difference with the dialog enhancer.  My dialog is quite good, so don't really care.

- There is a control for adjusting the levels of sub1 and sub2 directly from the Audio menu.  I wonder if this goes away when Audyssey is engaged?

- I use Quick Select a lot, but I don't see any Quick Select buttons on the remote.  What's with that?

- No chance to test Neo:X since I can"t finish my Audyssey calibration.

 

No I have to decide--do I get a refund and just keep my 4311, or do I get a replacement 4520?  I am 50/50 right now.

That sounds like a very frustrating situation Austn Jerry.
Sorry to hear you got a defective unit.
Thanks for your posts and impressions, I just purchased a 2nd 4311 for a
2nd room system, upgrading from a 4310...the 4310 has been problematic,
on it's way to Panurgy NJ now for repair & service...
Trying to resist the 4520, partly because of the fact I use DL 3/4, and I was
able to get the last NIB 4311 from my BB "region" at a good price.
My 1st 4311 purchased last Nov has been very stable and NOT problematic...
Hoping for the same with unit #2, although I might return it, 60/40 I will keep it.
I certainly understand your 50/50 feelings about trying a 2nd 4520,
not a very good 1st impression...

1. As flint350 noted, when only a single InstaPreview window is displayed, it's somewhat larger than when the multiple windows are displayed.
2. The 4520 and XX13 models all default to the "Absolute" volume scale instead of the "Relative" volume scale on prior year models; however, this can be changed to the "Relative" scale within the GUI.
3. The 4520 and XX13 models lost a number of icons formerly displayed at the top of the front panel display which makes room for a larger font size for the text.
4. The 4520 and XX13 model remotes no longer feature the Quick Select buttons, rather they are now only available on the front panel of the unit.

 

Darn, JD, I was hoping that you would suggest a magic way to fix my dead surround channel.  The unit has been boxed up, and I will be returning it later today.  :(

 

As to Quick Select, it can still be programmed on my Harmony Remote, so this is not a big deal, only curious, because I find QS such a useful feature.  As to the outcome of my brief in-home evaluation, I am no longer of the opinion that the new features of the 4520 are compelling enough to upgrade from my 4311.  Although I never had the opportunity to evaluate its audio performance, my assumption is that since both units have MultEQ XT32, the sonic difference would likely be small, if any.  So, I have decided not to get another 4520 at this time.

Sorry, but no can do ... you ruled out the speaker itself being an issue. Although on a positive note, at least you experienced enough to make your decision.

 

I never had a chance to check it out, but since I only use 8 of the 9 internal amps (I use an XPA-3 for LCR), could I have used the "custom" option in the amp assign to replace the dead surround right channel with the center channel amp?  Assuming, of course, that it is the amp that is defective.

No, rather the SR can only be free assigned to either the FR, SBR, or FHR amps.

I don't know if it matters, but I have a AVR-4311ci upstairs, and it will remain there.

downstairs I have a second setup, which I recently upgraded from my other AVR-4311ci to a AVR-3313CI which employs the 4k upscaling and such.
I only upgraded because downstairs employs a smaller sound system (5.1), smaller B&W Bookshelves speakers which don't require much power , plus I wanted to see how the new upscaling worked out.

The video on older saved digital 720p's is phenomenal, even dvd's which I considered "meh" before looks amazing.

All being watched on a Pioneer Kuro.

I'm super impressed with what they did with their new upscaling technology, and if the avr-4520ci uses that same chipset (or better) it will be a major upgrade.

I've considered in the past moving my AVR-3313ci upstairs, and just sacrificing losing a height channel and power in the meantime while Denon produced a AVR-4311ci replacement.

The AVR-3313ci menus are much snappier, it runs cooler, the video quality is stunning from the upscale, and most importantly it hasn't screwed up once . . . YET
Edited by kamiraa - 10/4/12 at 8:26am

Why not just use the 3930's HDMI output to run the link instead? It does exactly the same thing, and doesn't require silly proprietary connections.

Quick select could also be programmed on the 4 macro buttons on the Denon remote.  The auto-macro feature is already partly set this way IIRC (movie, music, bluray).  Sorry to hear about your problems, but as JD said, at least it helped finalize your decision.  Coming from the Onkyo, the new GUI, extra channels and other features made it a worthwhile upgrade for me.  Moving from a 4311 would seem to require more soul searching. 

 

I recently used AirPlay, which I didn't really intend to do, but found it well implemented.  And the more I explore the GUI and menu system, the more I like it.  The option button being dynamic based on current system settings is a nice touch and getting quickly to menu item lists in the transparent GUI works well - including the volume scale adjustment, which is Setup==Audio===Volume   It's a quick 3 step process and done.

Can anyone tell me if the 4520 is Class D? Most of the Denon products I've tried, Class B powered, have run very hot. I'm considering the 4520 but I don't want to turn my room into a furnance. Anyone who ever used a 5805 knows what I'm talking about.

If you want a receiver in this price range which has class D amps, you'll need to get one by Pioneer, not Denon.

The hyperbole needle in this forum has to be redlining every second of everyday.

Yeah how many degrees do you think ANY avr will raise your living room temperature?

Unreal.

James

FWIW, Rotel's receivers have class-D amps in this price range, too, but they don't seem to have any room equalization software.

I can imagine a class B amp getting rather toasty warm if you're driving low efficiency speakers at high sound levels in a large room. My impression is that in most cases, though, the video circuits run quite a bit warmer than the amps.

Modern Denon AVRs tend to not run very hot, rather as Seldon points out, it's the video card that puts out the most heat.