that should work, yes. The analog RCA outputs should be able to pass through any analog input source.
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The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 78
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1/22/13 at 11:28am
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1/22/13 at 5:16pm
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Mr. Bat Pig or anyone with the inside scoop
I'm getting ready to program my B&K10.1 MX700 Remote .Out with my old marantz and JVC and in with the Denon 4520 and Oppo 103. Its been a few years since I did one of these, but I'm guessing the codes are going to be a problem unless I " learn" the whole thing. I have downloaded the NX-RM 820 Editor and was wondering.....Are any of these discrete baseline codes a good place to start with. ? At least I would have a running start..Thanks
I'm getting ready to program my B&K10.1 MX700 Remote .Out with my old marantz and JVC and in with the Denon 4520 and Oppo 103. Its been a few years since I did one of these, but I'm guessing the codes are going to be a problem unless I " learn" the whole thing. I have downloaded the NX-RM 820 Editor and was wondering.....Are any of these discrete baseline codes a good place to start with. ? At least I would have a running start..Thanks
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1/22/13 at 7:51pm
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1/22/13 at 9:10pm
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Quote:
I honestly had the same thought so I compared them in a sound room and found the SQ difference to be extremely noticeable. I had them test them both at low volume (had my toddler with me) and on similar stereo speakers to mine. Only did the test in stereo. I don't think the difference is technically that subjective since the difference is night and day. I think this has been the case for years, that they have built the Japanese Denons to have very noticeably higher SQ than the rest. But is it worth it? that is subjective...but if you can get nearly all of the same stuff on the 3313 for half the price of the 4520 you have to figure that you are giving up something to do it and not just power. Only you can know if it is worth it though, so try and get somewhere where you can compare, bring your own cd, and use the same ( similar as you can get to yours) speakers for both. I know you will be in a sound room but they are not that effective at lower volumes and remember Audyssey does do a lot for room correction, so the sound room is less of an advantage until you get to very high volumes.
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1/22/13 at 9:22pm
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Originally Posted by avatar9 
I honestly had the same thought so I compared them in a sound room and found the SQ difference to be extremely noticeable. I had them test them both at low volume (had my toddler with me) and on similar stereo speakers to mine. Only did the test in stereo. I don't think the difference is technically that subjective since the difference is night and day. I think this has been the case for years, that they have built the Japanese Denons to have very noticeably higher SQ than the rest. But is it worth it? that is subjective...but if you can get nearly all of the same stuff on the 3313 for half the price of the 4520 you have to figure that you are giving up something to do it and not just power. Only you can know if it is worth it though, so try and get somewhere where you can compare, bring your own cd, and use the same ( similar as you can get to yours) speakers for both. I know you will be in a sound room but they are not that effective at lower volumes and remember Audyssey does do a lot for room correction, so the sound room is less of an advantage until you get to very high volumes.

I honestly had the same thought so I compared them in a sound room and found the SQ difference to be extremely noticeable. I had them test them both at low volume (had my toddler with me) and on similar stereo speakers to mine. Only did the test in stereo. I don't think the difference is technically that subjective since the difference is night and day. I think this has been the case for years, that they have built the Japanese Denons to have very noticeably higher SQ than the rest. But is it worth it? that is subjective...but if you can get nearly all of the same stuff on the 3313 for half the price of the 4520 you have to figure that you are giving up something to do it and not just power. Only you can know if it is worth it though, so try and get somewhere where you can compare, bring your own cd, and use the same ( similar as you can get to yours) speakers for both. I know you will be in a sound room but they are not that effective at lower volumes and remember Audyssey does do a lot for room correction, so the sound room is less of an advantage until you get to very high volumes.
Thanks avatar. I've been mulling over the decision for the last couple of days but I think you're correct - I have to get somewhere where I can listen for the difference. As I read through these forums I can't help but second guess my ears as many suggest that there is NO difference in the way different AVRs sound and that it's all down to the speakers. However, even if that's true (which I don't see how given the different DACs used), surely the different room correction technologies will affect it. I think what I'm most shocked by at this point is that I prefer the SQ of the 3313 to that of my Onkyo 876 - both have XT but somehow the Denon sounds far more detailed. If there's as much of a difference between the 3313 and 4520 as between the 876 and 3313 - I will be sold!
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1/22/13 at 9:24pm
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Is Roomie that cool? Anyone use it? I picked up a harmony 650 and I don't think I like the harmony since I have a projector in my HT and it wants to turn it off when switching activities...I know I have to set it up differently. I am surprised they are not easier to set up properly though. Going to try again but then I might find another option.
Yes sneaky apple released the Ipad 4 when the Ipad mini came out.
Quote:
Yes sneaky apple released the Ipad 4 when the Ipad mini came out.
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1/22/13 at 10:05pm
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So am I the only one here with $200 worth of 12G pure copper speaker wire in there walls, plus the $$ in jumper cables to connect it. I just can't imagine people are actually running cheap wire on these 4520's or other high end audio capable of so much range and power.
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1/22/13 at 10:43pm
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http://peteswrite.blogspot.sg/2013/01/denon-avr-4520-review-ht-and-audio.html
Try a different browser!
Try a different browser!
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1/23/13 at 3:03am
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1/23/13 at 3:06am
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A dollar a foot is plenty to pay for 12G pure copper speaker wire. And monoprice is the best deal there is for cables.
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1/23/13 at 4:43am
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Nah, just get a 4520 or 4311.
Or even an Onkyo AVR with XT32. 
It is really hard to compare AVRs because of all the confounding factors. I think that if you shut off Audyssey and did a level-matched BAB at average listening level between 3313 and 4520, identical settings throughtout and same source, same speakers, it would not be all that obvious which is which irt SQ. Speakers do make far more of an obvious difference.
IMO the MultEQXT32 superior DSP RC over XT is the most important feature accounting for the 4520 having superior SQ to the 3313. Same goes for the few remaining 4311s, the older XT32 model that also has great SQ.
IME as you move up the Denon line, there are usually some other differences such as the exact level of AL24 Processing Plus, etc. that may add a bit to SQ. Amp wattage makes little difference but the acceptable ohm range can matter (I was running 4 ohm speakers with the 4310 rated 6-16 ohms and I could hear strain at volume). I've had Denon models from several lines and years: 19xx, 2808, 2809, 4310 and 4311 and have enjoyed better SQ each move up, and improved levels of Audyssey have been a consistent part of that.
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1/23/13 at 5:54am
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Originally Posted by avatar9 
Is Roomie that cool? Anyone use it? I picked up a harmony 650 and I don't think I like the harmony since I have a projector in my HT and it wants to turn it off when switching activities...I know I have to set it up differently. I am surprised they are not easier to set up properly though. Going to try again but then I might find another option.
Yes sneaky apple released the Ipad 4 when the Ipad mini came out.

Is Roomie that cool? Anyone use it? I picked up a harmony 650 and I don't think I like the harmony since I have a projector in my HT and it wants to turn it off when switching activities...I know I have to set it up differently. I am surprised they are not easier to set up properly though. Going to try again but then I might find another option.
Yes sneaky apple released the Ipad 4 when the Ipad mini came out.
Darn I've been telling people there's no such thing, yet... Apple just made me a horse ass

, About the Roomie from what I've read it appears to be a capable controlling system that has me pretty interest in it.I've tried all sorts of Harmony, and I've never been happy with them, yeah I'm that guy.
Carry on and sorry on the of topic rant.
Djoel
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1/23/13 at 6:33am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind 
Nah, just get a 4520 or 4311.
Or even an Onkyo AVR with XT32. 
It is really hard to compare AVRs because of all the confounding factors. I think that if you shut off Audyssey and did a level-matched BAB at average listening level between 3313 and 4520, identical settings throughtout and same source, same speakers, it would not be all that obvious which is which irt SQ. Speakers do make far more of an obvious difference.
IMO the MultEQXT32 superior DSP RC over XT is the most important feature accounting for the 4520 having superior SQ to the 3313. Same goes for the few remaining 4311s, the older XT32 model that also has great SQ.
IME as you move up the Denon line, there are usually some other differences such as the exact level of AL24 Processing Plus, etc. that may add a bit to SQ. Amp wattage makes little difference but the acceptable ohm range can matter (I was running 4 ohm speakers with the 4310 rated 6-16 ohms and I could hear strain at volume). I've had Denon models from several lines and years: 19xx, 2808, 2809, 4310 and 4311 and have enjoyed better SQ each move up, and improved levels of Audyssey have been a consistent part of that.

Nah, just get a 4520 or 4311.
Or even an Onkyo AVR with XT32. 
It is really hard to compare AVRs because of all the confounding factors. I think that if you shut off Audyssey and did a level-matched BAB at average listening level between 3313 and 4520, identical settings throughtout and same source, same speakers, it would not be all that obvious which is which irt SQ. Speakers do make far more of an obvious difference.
IMO the MultEQXT32 superior DSP RC over XT is the most important feature accounting for the 4520 having superior SQ to the 3313. Same goes for the few remaining 4311s, the older XT32 model that also has great SQ.
IME as you move up the Denon line, there are usually some other differences such as the exact level of AL24 Processing Plus, etc. that may add a bit to SQ. Amp wattage makes little difference but the acceptable ohm range can matter (I was running 4 ohm speakers with the 4310 rated 6-16 ohms and I could hear strain at volume). I've had Denon models from several lines and years: 19xx, 2808, 2809, 4310 and 4311 and have enjoyed better SQ each move up, and improved levels of Audyssey have been a consistent part of that.
Thanks for the advice. On the one hand I'm tempted just to stop thinking about it and get the 4520. On the other hand your advice and some reading I've been doing have me back at square one. For one thing I have 8 ohm speakers and all four AVRs I have run them with starting with a Yamaha RX-V2400 (which I think could at best muster about 50w with 7 channels driven on a bench test), then an Onkyo 876, then a Pioneer SC-65 and now a Denon 3313 have all seemed capable of driving them to reference level and outputting a clean sound. I expect my speakers will be with me longer than either the 3313 or 4520 so I guess I'm not sure the ability to drive 4 ohm speakers means much for me.
Having said that, I've been thinking of XT32 and I'm slightly confused about whether I stand to gain more or less from it than a user with a dedicated HT room. My room is not a dedicated HT room. It has no accoustic treatments and although I have a 7.1 system, the speakers are not in the most ideal location, rather they are located to suit the room and furniture. So I guess I was wondering am I an even more ideal candidate in terms of benefitting from XT32 or is it more about squeezing out the last few degrees of performance for those with properly setup dedicated HT rooms?
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1/23/13 at 6:52am
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1/23/13 at 8:25am
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Thanks for the feedback, I think you guys are slowly pushing me into the fold. Plus, going from an Onkyo 876 which weighed in at over 50 lbs to a 4520 instead of a 3313 will give me some additional comfort that I haven't stepped too far back from that unit's power levels (even if I don't actually need more power than the 3313 has on offer). At the very least it might give me the piece of mind to stop looking for and playing back challening movie scenes to see if I can trip up the 3313 (though I haven't found any so far) - this will be a welcome relief, particularly for the wife.
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1/23/13 at 9:19am
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There is definitely Ipad 4 I have one.
Monoprice copper has given me problems it is not well sealed and will corrode through the jacket in a few years in my experience unless it's better now.
You have to really decide if SQ is worth that much money for yourself...
Having had both chinese and japanese denons over the years there are clear difference and it is not just fancy features the japan denons always sound fuller and warmer (more like my old marantz tube sounded)(also have had denons against yamaha and pio in my setup denon always wins the audition battle over the years even the chinese ones vs. higher end yam and pio( have no experience with onkyo though, not a fan of my local dealer)). Had both the 2808 and 3808 at the same time and the difference was night and day between these two units only $500 difference but miles apart. Audyssey and features are well matched across these two as well. And still Japan denon 3808 was noticeably better SQ to me and my wife both. Saying all of that I have had this 2312 after my 3808 quit and will be using it until this afternoon when my 4520 comes in. Going from the 3808 straight over to the2312 was an extreme drop in sound quality that was noticeable for days...after 3 weeks with this thing I am becoming more happy with it I think because your ears forget. I turn it up, it sounds full and pretty nice, most people that have heard the 2312 in my house are really impressed by the sound quality...its just that I have experienced better so I know it could be better.
Get the receiver you are most comfortable purchasing now and please first listen to both on the same setup before you do, would be my advice...Remember in a couple of years we all will have moved on to the next denon anyway( trust me even the Japanese ones break), so you could go top of the line later too. Not trying to talk you out of 4520 I just feel HT is an expensive (always going to upgrading) hobby and you have got to put your $$ in to it carefully because there are always going to be new things you will want/need to add to your HT as it evolves through the years.
Monoprice copper has given me problems it is not well sealed and will corrode through the jacket in a few years in my experience unless it's better now.
You have to really decide if SQ is worth that much money for yourself...
Having had both chinese and japanese denons over the years there are clear difference and it is not just fancy features the japan denons always sound fuller and warmer (more like my old marantz tube sounded)(also have had denons against yamaha and pio in my setup denon always wins the audition battle over the years even the chinese ones vs. higher end yam and pio( have no experience with onkyo though, not a fan of my local dealer)). Had both the 2808 and 3808 at the same time and the difference was night and day between these two units only $500 difference but miles apart. Audyssey and features are well matched across these two as well. And still Japan denon 3808 was noticeably better SQ to me and my wife both. Saying all of that I have had this 2312 after my 3808 quit and will be using it until this afternoon when my 4520 comes in. Going from the 3808 straight over to the2312 was an extreme drop in sound quality that was noticeable for days...after 3 weeks with this thing I am becoming more happy with it I think because your ears forget. I turn it up, it sounds full and pretty nice, most people that have heard the 2312 in my house are really impressed by the sound quality...its just that I have experienced better so I know it could be better.
Get the receiver you are most comfortable purchasing now and please first listen to both on the same setup before you do, would be my advice...Remember in a couple of years we all will have moved on to the next denon anyway( trust me even the Japanese ones break), so you could go top of the line later too. Not trying to talk you out of 4520 I just feel HT is an expensive (always going to upgrading) hobby and you have got to put your $$ in to it carefully because there are always going to be new things you will want/need to add to your HT as it evolves through the years.
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1/23/13 at 9:29am
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1/23/13 at 9:36am
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Thanks again for the advice. I'm leaning toward just getting the 4520, if only for the piece of mind it will afford me. I figure the time of wasted in my evenings looking up reviews and running test after test to ensure I'm happy with the 3313 has got to be worth something. It's either that or I have to quite with the research and just enjoy the 3313.
Another thing that is making the 4520 appealing is I'm able to get it for $1,850 in Toronto which is pretty good (I'm sure you can do better in the U.S.) whereas the price of the 3313 was $1K. Basically, even though the 4520 is costlier I'm getting a better deal on it so that makes it more appealling. If I had to pay the Canadian MSRP of $2,700 I wouldn't even consider it.
Another thing that is making the 4520 appealing is I'm able to get it for $1,850 in Toronto which is pretty good (I'm sure you can do better in the U.S.) whereas the price of the 3313 was $1K. Basically, even though the 4520 is costlier I'm getting a better deal on it so that makes it more appealling. If I had to pay the Canadian MSRP of $2,700 I wouldn't even consider it.
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1/23/13 at 11:06am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVT 
Thanks again for the advice. I'm leaning toward just getting the 4520, if only for the piece of mind it will afford me. I figure the time of wasted in my evenings looking up reviews and running test after test to ensure I'm happy with the 3313 has got to be worth something. It's either that or I have to quite with the research and just enjoy the 3313.
Another thing that is making the 4520 appealing is I'm able to get it for $1,850 in Toronto which is pretty good (I'm sure you can do better in the U.S.) whereas the price of the 3313 was $1K. Basically, even though the 4520 is costlier I'm getting a better deal on it so that makes it more appealling. If I had to pay the Canadian MSRP of $2,700 I wouldn't even consider it.

Thanks again for the advice. I'm leaning toward just getting the 4520, if only for the piece of mind it will afford me. I figure the time of wasted in my evenings looking up reviews and running test after test to ensure I'm happy with the 3313 has got to be worth something. It's either that or I have to quite with the research and just enjoy the 3313.
Another thing that is making the 4520 appealing is I'm able to get it for $1,850 in Toronto which is pretty good (I'm sure you can do better in the U.S.) whereas the price of the 3313 was $1K. Basically, even though the 4520 is costlier I'm getting a better deal on it so that makes it more appealling. If I had to pay the Canadian MSRP of $2,700 I wouldn't even consider it.
Wow for that price, I'll jump on the 4520, not that I'm not happy with 4311...I think I'm finally becoming an adult, and holding on my gear a bit longer than before.
I'll guess I'll see if it's worth it to me to make the switch.
Djoel
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1/23/13 at 11:18am
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1/23/13 at 11:52am
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Now if I could just get my gear to hold up longer before it fails or becomes obsolete that's the real trick here.
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1/23/13 at 12:22pm
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Hello everyone! I have been plugging through the thread and am currently on page 16 of the thread. I have been looking for anyone that is trying to control their AVR 4520CI with a Logitech Harmony 1100 remote. It looks like logitech's database include this receiver now, but when I go to program it, I still am having issues. The issue I have is trying to set up the activity 'watch tv'. I have my Panasonic TC-P65VT50 and Directv HR-34 sat box powered up before the Denon AVR 4520CI powers on. What happens when I do this is that all the zones get turned on somehow and the hdmi input selection screen is displayed on the tv. Does anyone have a solution to this problem? Also, if I power on the receiver before the tv and directv box, I don't get any sound to come out until I cycle the power button on the Denon receiver. I am utilizing the ARC/3D capability of all the devices connected and don't know if I missed a setting in the receiver. Lastly, I have had some issues with my setup sometime switching between channels on the directv box. When I have everything on and switch to another non 3D channel, I get three ghost images on the screen which makes the picture not viewable and the tv detects 3D and asks if I want to display the 3D content. If I switch back to the previous channel, it is fine, but any other channel (non 3D) looks the same with the 3 ghost images on the screen. I posted in the Panasonic VT 50 owners thread this same issue but was wondering if there was anyone else with a similar setup and if they are having any problems, and if so, how did they fix it. I have had to call directv twice now and they walk me through power cycling the tv, box, and receiver, and after doing this everything works correctly for awhile. The only thing that has changed in my system is that I performed a firmware upgrade to the Panasonic TV and it appears that after that, something has been changed in the system (ie TV) that is causing the problems. Any insight into any of these issues would be appreciated.
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1/23/13 at 2:37pm
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Quote:
Is obsolescent real or a good marketing program?
Think about a AVR with HDMI 1.2 switching.
Tell me what is obsolete about it (RC aside) between it and a modern AVR with HDMI 1.4?
3D? OK if you bought into the whole 3D marketing gimmick I guess so.
HD audio decoding?
EVERY bluray player since the PS3 can decode HD audio and pass it as PCM which EVERY AVR with HDMI 1.2 can handle.
No loss in SQ if done this way. Or if you have 7.1 analog in, you can go that route if the player has 7.1 analog out.
Sources do get obsolete much more quickly than AVRs should, but you better believe the OEMs would want us to think otherwise.

In fact I'll bet older top end AVRs with 1.2 can sound better than modern ones (RC aside) just by the better build quality of components used vs today.
Something to think about.

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1/23/13 at 2:49pm
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From wikipedia:
HDMI 1.4 was released on May 28, 2009, and the first HDMI 1.4 products were available in the second half of 2009.[109][140] HDMI 1.4 increases the maximum resolution to 4K × 2K, i.e. 3840 × 2160p (Quad HD) at 24 Hz/25 Hz/30 Hz or 4096 × 2160p at 24 Hz (which is a resolution used with digital theaters); an HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC), which allows for a 100 Mbit/s Ethernet connection between the two HDMI connected devices so they can share an Internet connection;[59] and introduces an Audio Return Channel (ARC),[58] 3D Over HDMI, a new Micro HDMI Connector, expanded support for color spaces, with the addition of sYCC601, Adobe RGB and Adobe YCC601; and an Automotive Connection System.[109][141][142][143][144] HDMI 1.4 supports several stereoscopic 3D formats including field alternative (interlaced), frame packing (a full resolution top-bottom format), line alternative full, side-by-side half, side-by-side full, 2D + depth, and 2D + depth + graphics + graphics depth (WOWvx),[106][145][146] with additional top/bottom formats added in version 1.4a. HDMI 1.4 requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[146] High Speed HDMI 1.3 cables can support all HDMI 1.4 features except for the HDMI Ethernet Channel.[106][145][146]
HDMI 1.4a was released on March 4, 2010 and adds two additional mandatory 3D formats for broadcast content, which was deferred with HDMI 1.4 in order to see the direction of the 3D broadcast market.[147][148] HDMI 1.4a has defined mandatory 3D formats for broadcast, game, and movie content.[147] HDMI 1.4a requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24, side-by-side horizontal at either 1080i50 or 1080i60, and top-and-bottom at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[148]
HDMI 1.4b was released on October 11, 2011.[149] One of the new features is that it adds support to 1080p video at 120 Hz.[150] All future versions of the HDMI specification will be made by the HDMI Forum that was created on October 25, 2011.[43][151]
HDMI 1.4 was released on May 28, 2009, and the first HDMI 1.4 products were available in the second half of 2009.[109][140] HDMI 1.4 increases the maximum resolution to 4K × 2K, i.e. 3840 × 2160p (Quad HD) at 24 Hz/25 Hz/30 Hz or 4096 × 2160p at 24 Hz (which is a resolution used with digital theaters); an HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC), which allows for a 100 Mbit/s Ethernet connection between the two HDMI connected devices so they can share an Internet connection;[59] and introduces an Audio Return Channel (ARC),[58] 3D Over HDMI, a new Micro HDMI Connector, expanded support for color spaces, with the addition of sYCC601, Adobe RGB and Adobe YCC601; and an Automotive Connection System.[109][141][142][143][144] HDMI 1.4 supports several stereoscopic 3D formats including field alternative (interlaced), frame packing (a full resolution top-bottom format), line alternative full, side-by-side half, side-by-side full, 2D + depth, and 2D + depth + graphics + graphics depth (WOWvx),[106][145][146] with additional top/bottom formats added in version 1.4a. HDMI 1.4 requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[146] High Speed HDMI 1.3 cables can support all HDMI 1.4 features except for the HDMI Ethernet Channel.[106][145][146]
HDMI 1.4a was released on March 4, 2010 and adds two additional mandatory 3D formats for broadcast content, which was deferred with HDMI 1.4 in order to see the direction of the 3D broadcast market.[147][148] HDMI 1.4a has defined mandatory 3D formats for broadcast, game, and movie content.[147] HDMI 1.4a requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24, side-by-side horizontal at either 1080i50 or 1080i60, and top-and-bottom at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[148]
HDMI 1.4b was released on October 11, 2011.[149] One of the new features is that it adds support to 1080p video at 120 Hz.[150] All future versions of the HDMI specification will be made by the HDMI Forum that was created on October 25, 2011.[43][151]
post #2338 of 4880
1/23/13 at 4:29pm
- pmcduie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonofsoren 
Hello everyone! I have been plugging through the thread and am currently on page 16 of the thread. I have been looking for anyone that is trying to control their AVR 4520CI with a Logitech Harmony 1100 remote. It looks like logitech's database include this receiver now, but when I go to program it, I still am having issues. The issue I have is trying to set up the activity 'watch tv'. I have my Panasonic TC-P65VT50 and Directv HR-34 sat box powered up before the Denon AVR 4520CI powers on. What happens when I do this is that all the zones get turned on somehow and the hdmi input selection screen is displayed on the tv. Does anyone have a solution to this problem? Also, if I power on the receiver before the tv and directv box, I don't get any sound to come out until I cycle the power button on the Denon receiver. I am utilizing the ARC/3D capability of all the devices connected and don't know if I missed a setting in the receiver. Lastly, I have had some issues with my setup sometime switching between channels on the directv box. When I have everything on and switch to another non 3D channel, I get three ghost images on the screen which makes the picture not viewable and the tv detects 3D and asks if I want to display the 3D content. If I switch back to the previous channel, it is fine, but any other channel (non 3D) looks the same with the 3 ghost images on the screen. I posted in the Panasonic VT 50 owners thread this same issue but was wondering if there was anyone else with a similar setup and if they are having any problems, and if so, how did they fix it. I have had to call directv twice now and they walk me through power cycling the tv, box, and receiver, and after doing this everything works correctly for awhile. The only thing that has changed in my system is that I performed a firmware upgrade to the Panasonic TV and it appears that after that, something has been changed in the system (ie TV) that is causing the problems. Any insight into any of these issues would be appreciated.

Hello everyone! I have been plugging through the thread and am currently on page 16 of the thread. I have been looking for anyone that is trying to control their AVR 4520CI with a Logitech Harmony 1100 remote. It looks like logitech's database include this receiver now, but when I go to program it, I still am having issues. The issue I have is trying to set up the activity 'watch tv'. I have my Panasonic TC-P65VT50 and Directv HR-34 sat box powered up before the Denon AVR 4520CI powers on. What happens when I do this is that all the zones get turned on somehow and the hdmi input selection screen is displayed on the tv. Does anyone have a solution to this problem? Also, if I power on the receiver before the tv and directv box, I don't get any sound to come out until I cycle the power button on the Denon receiver. I am utilizing the ARC/3D capability of all the devices connected and don't know if I missed a setting in the receiver. Lastly, I have had some issues with my setup sometime switching between channels on the directv box. When I have everything on and switch to another non 3D channel, I get three ghost images on the screen which makes the picture not viewable and the tv detects 3D and asks if I want to display the 3D content. If I switch back to the previous channel, it is fine, but any other channel (non 3D) looks the same with the 3 ghost images on the screen. I posted in the Panasonic VT 50 owners thread this same issue but was wondering if there was anyone else with a similar setup and if they are having any problems, and if so, how did they fix it. I have had to call directv twice now and they walk me through power cycling the tv, box, and receiver, and after doing this everything works correctly for awhile. The only thing that has changed in my system is that I performed a firmware upgrade to the Panasonic TV and it appears that after that, something has been changed in the system (ie TV) that is causing the problems. Any insight into any of these issues would be appreciated.
I am having similar issues myself. I have upgraded from a Denon 2310 to the 4520 and I am using a Harmony One remote. When I start any activity, all of the zones are turned on ( Zones 2,3,4). I also want to be able to create activities using each of the specified zones and this cannot be done using the current configuration of the receiver from Logitech. I contacted the Harmony support team and they asked for the Receivers Pronto Hex codes for the zones. I have not been able to find them from the local distributors web site ( I live in Australia), only IR codes. If anybody on the forum can point me in the right direction , so that I can access the codes, then I am sure that the support team can fix this issue.
Any help appreciated.
Interestingly, when I moved my 2310 to another room in my house and added the 2310 reciever to another Harmony One remote, when it was added as a device it asked you to configure Main Zone and Zone 2, and create activities using any input and zone combination. I was expecting the same for the new receiver(4520), but it obviously has not been configured yet.
Final Note : I am very impressed by the new receiver and blu-ray combination (AVR4520 and DBT3313), the improvement in sound and picture quality over the previous combination ( 2310 and Panasonic Blu-Ray) is amazing. Definitely worth the upgrade, now all I need is to get the remote working properly.
post #2339 of 4880
1/23/13 at 4:41pm
- AustinJerry
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The default "Power On" command in the Harmony One database is "Power ALL Zones On". This is not desirable for several reasons, including disabling InstaPreview when Zone 4 is active. I resolved this by using the Denon remote to teach the Harmony the command to power on Zone 1 only. I then customized my Activities on the Harmony One to use the learned "Power On" command, rather than the one in the database.
post #2340 of 4880
1/23/13 at 6:21pm
- bootman_head_fi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgwalsh 
From wikipedia:
HDMI 1.4 was released on May 28, 2009, and the first HDMI 1.4 products were available in the second half of 2009.[109][140] HDMI 1.4 increases the maximum resolution to 4K × 2K, i.e. 3840 × 2160p (Quad HD) at 24 Hz/25 Hz/30 Hz or 4096 × 2160p at 24 Hz (which is a resolution used with digital theaters); an HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC), which allows for a 100 Mbit/s Ethernet connection between the two HDMI connected devices so they can share an Internet connection;[59] and introduces an Audio Return Channel (ARC),[58] 3D Over HDMI, a new Micro HDMI Connector, expanded support for color spaces, with the addition of sYCC601, Adobe RGB and Adobe YCC601; and an Automotive Connection System.[109][141][142][143][144] HDMI 1.4 supports several stereoscopic 3D formats including field alternative (interlaced), frame packing (a full resolution top-bottom format), line alternative full, side-by-side half, side-by-side full, 2D + depth, and 2D + depth + graphics + graphics depth (WOWvx),[106][145][146] with additional top/bottom formats added in version 1.4a. HDMI 1.4 requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[146] High Speed HDMI 1.3 cables can support all HDMI 1.4 features except for the HDMI Ethernet Channel.[106][145][146]
HDMI 1.4a was released on March 4, 2010 and adds two additional mandatory 3D formats for broadcast content, which was deferred with HDMI 1.4 in order to see the direction of the 3D broadcast market.[147][148] HDMI 1.4a has defined mandatory 3D formats for broadcast, game, and movie content.[147] HDMI 1.4a requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24, side-by-side horizontal at either 1080i50 or 1080i60, and top-and-bottom at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[148]
HDMI 1.4b was released on October 11, 2011.[149] One of the new features is that it adds support to 1080p video at 120 Hz.[150] All future versions of the HDMI specification will be made by the HDMI Forum that was created on October 25, 2011.[43][151]

From wikipedia:
HDMI 1.4 was released on May 28, 2009, and the first HDMI 1.4 products were available in the second half of 2009.[109][140] HDMI 1.4 increases the maximum resolution to 4K × 2K, i.e. 3840 × 2160p (Quad HD) at 24 Hz/25 Hz/30 Hz or 4096 × 2160p at 24 Hz (which is a resolution used with digital theaters); an HDMI Ethernet Channel (HEC), which allows for a 100 Mbit/s Ethernet connection between the two HDMI connected devices so they can share an Internet connection;[59] and introduces an Audio Return Channel (ARC),[58] 3D Over HDMI, a new Micro HDMI Connector, expanded support for color spaces, with the addition of sYCC601, Adobe RGB and Adobe YCC601; and an Automotive Connection System.[109][141][142][143][144] HDMI 1.4 supports several stereoscopic 3D formats including field alternative (interlaced), frame packing (a full resolution top-bottom format), line alternative full, side-by-side half, side-by-side full, 2D + depth, and 2D + depth + graphics + graphics depth (WOWvx),[106][145][146] with additional top/bottom formats added in version 1.4a. HDMI 1.4 requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[146] High Speed HDMI 1.3 cables can support all HDMI 1.4 features except for the HDMI Ethernet Channel.[106][145][146]
HDMI 1.4a was released on March 4, 2010 and adds two additional mandatory 3D formats for broadcast content, which was deferred with HDMI 1.4 in order to see the direction of the 3D broadcast market.[147][148] HDMI 1.4a has defined mandatory 3D formats for broadcast, game, and movie content.[147] HDMI 1.4a requires that 3D displays support the frame packing 3D format at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24, side-by-side horizontal at either 1080i50 or 1080i60, and top-and-bottom at either 720p50 and 1080p24 or 720p60 and 1080p24.[148]
HDMI 1.4b was released on October 11, 2011.[149] One of the new features is that it adds support to 1080p video at 120 Hz.[150] All future versions of the HDMI specification will be made by the HDMI Forum that was created on October 25, 2011.[43][151]
...and all this requires an AVR upgrade or a bluray player upgrade with dual HDMI outs?
Last I checked no cable/SAT company has released a HDMI 1.4 device and the vast majority are still 1.2.
Also have we all swapped displays to keep up?
Just saying, what is really driving sales?
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