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The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 80

post #2371 of 7838
Avatar9 were you able to resolve your Internet radio/network issue? Did power cycling to the trick or did you have to a do a microprocessor and/or network reset?
post #2372 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by bootman_head_fi View Post

What is your 4810 not doing that you think the 4520 will?
That is the real question for you. cool.gif

That's the kicker; I have a swell-new 3d-capable TV and with DTV, PS3 and now an Oppo 103, I'd LIKE to be able to have EASY access to ALL the content available to me; its just that to do it with a 4810, I need to work like an olde-tyme operator, pulling and pushing plugs here and there to make it work (for the DTV and PS3, that is...).
post #2373 of 7838
Did a couple of hard and network resets to get it to go but Denon recommended exchanging it anyway because of the problem seemed serious to them. Still waiting on BB to tell me what they can do so using it now until I hear back or it freezes again. Still it has marvelous sound from what I have heard so far.
post #2374 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidbarrickman View Post

You may already be aware of this, but in case you're not, the 4x10 AVRs have a fairly widespread issue.
If you're 4810 has the original NIC card it may fail if you haven't had this issue yet and unit is still under warranty it might be a good idea to get it replaced. Some owners have ordered the card and replaced it themselves. If your unit was a refurb there's a chance you may have the NIC card which is not prone to fail. See 4310 and 4810 owner's threads and search "NIC" for more details & info.

I heard about this long ago, but have been in the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" camp. BTW Denon tech says the main culprit with this issue was folks updating over wireless and the card would tank when signal was lost, i.e. use a wired connection and your odds improved.

Not sure if mine is out of warranty; might need to dig around for a receipt or just call Denon and let THEM tell ME.
post #2375 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

In this case it's really about (1) the step forward to MultEQ XT32 and (2) the improved network options (e.g. Pandora, Airplay, etc). Plus of course the new whiz-bang feature doodads like HDMI Zone 4 output, 4k support, 3D support, InstaPrevue, etc.

Outside of XT32 I doubt there is any real difference in "raw" sound quality or PQ.

I also suppose it matters how much I might be able to recoup in the sale of the 4810. Then I could better evaluate just how much those convenience upgrades would (literally) cost me.
post #2376 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by avatar9 View Post

Does anyone know if these do 2.1 I can't seem to find the setting to use the sub with stereo. I realize it's better not to but II hate to give my fronts such a workout when I listen to music.

As long as the main speakers are set to small, bass management routes the low frequencies to the sub(s). If your mains are set to large, and you want to use the subs as well, you can change the bass setting in the Speakers menu from "LFE" to "LFE+Main". This results in the same bass frequencies being sent to both the mains and the sub(s), which is also called "double bass". Many users think double bass is not a good setting to use, and can result in muddy, poorly-defined low frequencies.
post #2377 of 7838
I would consider the difference between Audyssey MultEQXT and MultiEQXT32 more than a convenience upgrade...especially if you have 2 subs.
post #2378 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadClams View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

In this case it's really about (1) the step forward to MultEQ XT32 and (2) the improved network options (e.g. Pandora, Airplay, etc). Plus of course the new whiz-bang feature doodads like HDMI Zone 4 output, 4k support, 3D support, InstaPrevue, etc.

Outside of XT32 I doubt there is any real difference in "raw" sound quality or PQ.

I also suppose it matters how much I might be able to recoup in the sale of the 4810. Then I could better evaluate just how much those convenience upgrades would (literally) cost me.

You should not underestimate the sound quality improvement of XT32 over your present XT. I would categorize this as a huge improvement, although there are other, lower-priced AVR's that would give you XT32 (e.g. The 4311, and the Onkyo 818).
post #2379 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

As long as the main speakers are set to small, bass management routes the low frequencies to the sub(s). If your mains are set to large, and you want to use the subs as well, you can change the bass setting in the Speakers menu from "LFE" to "LFE+Main". This results in the same bass frequencies being sent to both the mains and the sub(s), which is also called "double bass". Many users think double bass is not a good setting to use, and can result in muddy, poorly-defined low frequencies.

I have all Bostons, audyssey calls even my surrounds which are book shelf size, large and the fronts are floor standing with pretty decent size woofers and excellent bass so fronts have to stay at large I think. Tried the lfe+main on this one and the sw output didn't light up and my sub seemed quiet. Seemed to change the sound quality a bit not sure why. Used to do this lfe+main thing on my 3808 with decent results don't know why this one doesn't do it.
post #2380 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by avatar9 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

As long as the main speakers are set to small, bass management routes the low frequencies to the sub(s). If your mains are set to large, and you want to use the subs as well, you can change the bass setting in the Speakers menu from "LFE" to "LFE+Main". This results in the same bass frequencies being sent to both the mains and the sub(s), which is also called "double bass". Many users think double bass is not a good setting to use, and can result in muddy, poorly-defined low frequencies.

I have all Bostons, audyssey calls even my surrounds which are book shelf size, large and the fronts are floor standing with pretty decent size woofers and excellent bass so fronts have to stay at large I think. Tried the lfe+main on this one and the sw output didn't light up and my sub seemed quiet. Seemed to change the sound quality a bit not sure why. Used to do this lfe+main thing on my 3808 with decent results don't know why this one doesn't do it.

Many of us have capable speakers. This doesn't mean we shouldn't change the speakers to "small", and raise the crossover to a value that allows the subwoofer to do the job it is intended to do.
post #2381 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidbarrickman View Post

I would consider the difference between Audyssey MultEQXT and MultiEQXT32 more than a convenience upgrade...especially if you have 2 subs.

I'm running a pair of Definitive BP2002's. Each has a built-in powered sub. Would it make as big a difference with these "power towers"?
post #2382 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Many of us have capable speakers. This doesn't mean we shouldn't change the speakers to "small", and raise the crossover to a value that allows the subwoofer to do the job it is intended to do.

I like the way you think! Do you know where the crossover will be, is this going to effect anything other than the under 80hz bass, pretty sure the 3808 had a crossover that I could select for this so not used to this setup.
post #2383 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

You should not underestimate the sound quality improvement of XT32 over your present XT. I would categorize this as a huge improvement, although there are other, lower-priced AVR's that would give you XT32 (e.g. The 4311, and the Onkyo 818).

Dang, I had no idea that this would represent a significant step! In this case though, I'd probably lean towards in for a penny in for a pound if I decide to pull the trigger.

How much do you folks think a 4810 can fetch these days?
post #2384 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by avatar9 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Many of us have capable speakers. This doesn't mean we shouldn't change the speakers to "small", and raise the crossover to a value that allows the subwoofer to do the job it is intended to do.

I like the way you think! Do you know where the crossover will be, is this going to effect anything other than the under 80hz bass, pretty sure the 3808 had a crossover that I could select for this so not used to this setup.

Well, starting at 80Hz and then experimenting with other values is always a good approach. Ultimately, what sounds good to you is the right setting.
post #2385 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Well, starting at 80Hz and then experimenting with other values is always a good approach. Ultimately, what sounds good to you is the right setting.

Are you saying when I switch to small I will have crossover control? Also where (Hz) do you run yours at, just out of curiosity?
post #2386 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by avatar9 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Well, starting at 80Hz and then experimenting with other values is always a good approach. Ultimately, what sounds good to you is the right setting.

Are you saying when I switch to small I will have crossover control? Also where (Hz) do you run yours at, just out of curiosity?

Yes, when the speakers a re set to "small", you can specify the crossover. I have all my speakers crossed over at 80Hz.
post #2387 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Yes, when the speakers a re set to "small", you can specify the crossover. I have all my speakers crossed over at 80Hz.

So I did this and it worked great, thanks. Do you see the sw Icon on output? Because I don't see it. I have speakers all set to small and lfe+main is selected.
post #2388 of 7838
I just confirmed that my sub still is not being used at all.
post #2389 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by avatar9 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Yes, when the speakers a re set to "small", you can specify the crossover. I have all my speakers crossed over at 80Hz.

So I did this and it worked great, thanks. Do you see the sw Icon on output? Because I don't see it. I have speakers all set to small and lfe+main is selected.

I am listening to a Dolby Digital TV broadcast right now. When I switch the 4520 to Stereo, I see icons for FL, FR, SW1, and SW2. When I check the subs, bass frequencies are clearly being routed to the subs.
post #2390 of 7838
Hi guys,

Before going ahead with a 4520, I was wondering if anyone successfully connected the 4520 via Ethernet to a network switch? I ask because I will need to connect it to a 8-port gigabit switch and have no desire to use it as a switch. I'm fuzzy on my networking but I seem to recall reading that you cannot wire a switch to a switch - is this going to be a problem?
post #2391 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

I am listening to a Dolby Digital TV broadcast right now. When I switch the 4520 to Stereo, I see icons for FL, FR, SW1, and SW2. When I check the subs, bass frequencies are clearly being routed to the subs.

OK thanks again. I was totally stuck still until I realized you said stereo, not direct, which I was using. It seems there is no sub available in direct mode.
post #2392 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by EVT View Post

Hi guys,

Before going ahead with a 4520, I was wondering if anyone successfully connected the 4520 via Ethernet to a network switch? I ask because I will need to connect it to a 8-port gigabit switch and have no desire to use it as a switch. I'm fuzzy on my networking but I seem to recall reading that you cannot wire a switch to a switch - is this going to be a problem?

You can cascade switches. It gets difficult to cascade routers.
Since the 4520 is only a switch, it should not be a problem at all.
post #2393 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadClams View Post

That's the kicker; I have a swell-new 3d-capable TV and with DTV, PS3 and now an Oppo 103, I'd LIKE to be able to have EASY access to ALL the content available to me; its just that to do it with a 4810, I need to work like an olde-tyme operator, pulling and pushing plugs here and there to make it work (for the DTV and PS3, that is...).

then that is your reason right there.
Better usability.
Then to answer your original question, in your case the 4520 will give you better usability with your setup.
Only you can decide if that is worth the cost of upgrading.
post #2394 of 7838
Has anyone used this as a Pre Pro yet, any one using a Power amp with this, Im not to impressed with this Recv power rating..the Supposed 150 watts seems like 80!! Anyways, this weekend Im gonna hook up my Outlaw 7100 and see the Difference in Vol Levels..
post #2395 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingvfreak View Post

Has anyone used this as a Pre Pro yet, any one using a Power amp with this, Im not to impressed with this Recv power rating..the Supposed 150 watts seems like 80!! Anyways, this weekend Im gonna hook up my Outlaw 7100 and see the Difference in Vol Levels..

C'est la vie with the current crop of AVRs.
post #2396 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingvfreak View Post

the Supposed 150 watts seems like 80!!

 

Upon what do you base this statement?

post #2397 of 7838
that I have to turn it up like to 80!! out of a max 96.5?? i recall my old Marantz av 6005 having same Vol Power..and that was what 100 or 110 watts x7 , Idk ?? I'll see what vol # i get on the Dial to get with a 100 x 7 amp hooked up, if I get to same leval at 40-50 with Amp I'll know then!!
post #2398 of 7838
coming from a Marantz AV 7005 with Power Amps Im not too Impressed with this AVR 4520 Power Section thats all, However it does run rather cool..
post #2399 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingvfreak View Post

coming from a Marantz AV 7005 with Power Amps Im not too Impressed with this AVR 4520 Power Section thats all, However it does run rather cool..

And you've run Audyssey I assume...just that it can effect output levels. Also find this hard to believe since my Denon 3808 (130w/ch) could put out good sound that you could listen to from outside my house at that level, It wasn't comfortable to be inside with it up that high. On top of that from what I hear so far from the 4520 it is definitely more powerful than that old unit.
post #2400 of 7838
Quote:
Originally Posted by bootman_head_fi View Post

You can cascade switches. It gets difficult to cascade routers.
Since the 4520 is only a switch, it should not be a problem at all.

Thanks, I'm glad that won't be an issue.
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