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The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 133

post #3961 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Note the red light is on when HDMI Control is set to ON as well. smile.gif

I do have HDMI control set to OFF. So something else must be the reason for the little red LED light remaining on in standby/Off.
post #3962 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougReim View Post

Chucka,
Unless you are going to run more than 7 speakers I think you'd be fine with the 33XX series. I wanted 9 or 11 speakers so I didn't have much choice. The 4520 has a nice feature set and gives you the option to use 9 or 11 channels .

Can one use Zone 2 and main-Zone 11 channel (custom setup)? I am using 11 channels (7 preout/separate amp + 4 in-built amp). The manual does not show how one can use a multi-zone hookup for this set up.
post #3963 of 7682
Looking for some tricks to resolve the pita handshake issues with 4520 as its just not being nice. Handshake issues galore. I can never get my projector setup to just come on. Blue screen requires unplugging and waiting and then replug..what a pita! All started getting worse since last FW UPDATE. I am going from the oppo to AVR bluray out to a darblet to either a VW95ES or RS65 and in bot situations nothing but a blue screen with the HDMI no input signal showing.
post #3964 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourbeef View Post

I do have HDMI control set to OFF. So something else must be the reason for the little red LED light remaining on in standby/Off.

Oops! Forgot that "HDMI Pass Through" is a split out from "HDMI Control" on the 4520CI, so it would be "HDMI Pass Through" that you still have enabled. smile.gif
post #3965 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob33 View Post

Looking for some tricks to resolve the pita handshake issues with 4520 as its just not being nice. Handshake issues galore. I can never get my projector setup to just come on. Blue screen requires unplugging and waiting and then replug..what a pita! All started getting worse since last FW UPDATE. I am going from the oppo to AVR bluray out to a darblet to either a VW95ES or RS65 and in bot situations nothing but a blue screen with the HDMI no input signal showing.

Try powering on the devices in a different order, although generally TV/PJ, wait a few secs, then AVR, wait a few secs, then source device works best to mitigate HDMI handshake issues. Also what is the PJ cable length as you may need to use an HDMI extender?

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1334369/the-official-denon-avr-xx12-model-owners-thread/0_100#user_L11
post #3966 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeantYnot View Post

Hmm, well either your hypothesis is correct, or every manufacturer that claims there are break-in period for their electronics and speakers are completed consumed by psychoacoustics too.
I am unaware of Denon, or Oppo for that matter, making any such reference irt SS electronics. I'd be interested to read it if you have a link.

Conventional speakers have a very significant mechanical component to their function that so in that case I am not as skeptical and accept that there may be an audible and measureable change in performance during the initial period of use.

 

I think that even speakers require very little 'break in' and that which they do require is done at the factory anyway. I think this is largely another 'audiofool' concept to give certain brands of speakers an 'air of mystery' or superiority to 'the common herd'.  People say they hear a difference after xxx hours of 'break-in' but in reality it is the listener who has 'broken in' not the speaker and they have just become accustomed to the differences in sound quality between the new speakers and their old ones.  Same reason some speaker manufacturers put four sets of terminals on the speakers so they can be 'biamped'. It's just marketing.

 

Of course, the cynic in me also suspects that cable manufacturers or sellers who also specify a 'break-in' period before you can hear the vast improvements in sonic purity, the inky blackness between spaces, the deeper, wider soundstage and the velvety cholcolatey textures the new cables impart - well, it's interesting how you can’t hear all these improvements until after the return period has expired ;) 

 

It's hokum. And it's easy to measure SS equipment on Day 1 and on Day 60 and guess what?  No measurable, audible differences! 

post #3967 of 7682
A little speaker break in period is required, but I am pretty sure FedEx and UPS do their best to BREAK them during the PERIOD they are IN their possession. After that, no more break in period is needed. wink.gif
post #3968 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

A little speaker break in period is required, but I am pretty sure FedEx and UPS do their best to BREAK them during the PERIOD they are IN their possession. After that, no more break in period is needed. wink.gif

LOL, when I saw they way FedEx delivered my subs, I thought the same thing. Amazingly they still worked after being "broken in."
post #3969 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarnes701 View Post

 Same reason some speaker manufacturers put four sets of terminals on the speakers so they can be 'biamped'. It's just marketing.

Of course, the cynic in me also suspects that cable manufacturers or sellers who also specify a 'break-in' period before you can hear the vast improvements in sonic purity, the inky blackness between spaces, the deeper, wider soundstage and the velvety cholcolatey textures the new cables impart - well, it's interesting how you can’t hear all these improvements until after the return period has expired wink.gif 

Reminds me of when "Glass TOSlink" cables made their way to the market costing an exponential premium. The early adopters claimed pristine sonic advantages over regular optical cables, and the cynics came out with the "It is digital 1s and 0s so there is no benefit" mantra. This is one of the reasons I love this hobby. biggrin.gif
post #3970 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourbeef View Post

I do have HDMI control set to OFF. So something else must be the reason for the little red LED light remaining on in standby/Off.

If you have any of the "Network Always On", "HDMI Control" or "HDMI Passthrough" settings activated, this will have the red LED.
post #3971 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob33 View Post

Looking for some tricks to resolve the pita handshake issues with 4520 as its just not being nice. Handshake issues galore. I can never get my projector setup to just come on. Blue screen requires unplugging and waiting and then replug..what a pita! All started getting worse since last FW UPDATE. I am going from the oppo to AVR bluray out to a darblet to either a VW95ES or RS65 and in bot situations nothing but a blue screen with the HDMI no input signal showing.

When I had the Darbee and the 95 in my system, I had to disconnect and power cycle the Darbee every time to get an image (one of the reasons I got rid of the Darbee). I would also get a black/magenta screen occasionally. The Denon was not in the video chain at the time.

Now that I have the Denon, I still experience an issue with getting my projector to display without having to disconnect the HDMI, and toggle the HDMI output settings on the Denon. For the time being, I am just running my Oppo on split HDMI, with the projector directly to the Oppo for video and Denon for audio. Did you try plugging in the Darbee/projector directly to your projector?

It's also possible this if firmware related. I noticed on page 1 of this thread that a couple of the previous firmwares addressed projector issues. I just updated the firmware a couple days ago, and noticed Firmware 3325-8733-3492 resolved a dual HDMI out issue. I will test my projector this weekend, and if the issue persists, I will contact Denon directly.
post #3972 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Oops! Forgot that "HDMI Pass Through" is a split out from "HDMI Control" on the 4520CI, so it would be "HDMI Pass Through" that you still have enabled. smile.gif

Yeah, I was thinking that could be it...only thing is there is no OFF on the HDMI passthrough submenu, you just pick one of your inputs, or Last but no OFF selection.
post #3973 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob33 View Post

Looking for some tricks to resolve the pita handshake issues with 4520 as its just not being nice. Handshake issues galore. I can never get my projector setup to just come on. Blue screen requires unplugging and waiting and then replug..what a pita! All started getting worse since last FW UPDATE. I am going from the oppo to AVR bluray out to a darblet to either a VW95ES or RS65 and in bot situations nothing but a blue screen with the HDMI no input signal showing.

Try powering on the devices in a different order, although generally TV/PJ, wait a few secs, then AVR, wait a few secs, then source device works best to mitigate HDMI handshake issues. Also what is the PJ cable length as you may need to use an HDMI extender?

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1334369/the-official-denon-avr-xx12-model-owners-thread/0_100#user_L11

It's a 25' mono price cable. Ill try the PJ --> AVR --> source. I think I am using it reverse, now.
post #3974 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

With a 11.1 setup in the main zone, you would need to use an external amp from the Zone 2 pre-outs.

Even though 5 amps in the receiver are not being used?
post #3975 of 7682
Thread Starter 
Actually technically you can do it using the "Custom" free assign mode.

The manual doesn't show it because it's not a standard configuration.

The other option, if you don't want to muck around with the custom amp assign configuration, is to simply shift 2 of the channels of the external amp to Zone 2, leaving 5 external amp channels in main zone with the receiver powering 6 channels (probably surround, surround back, and front height).
post #3976 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Actually technically you can do it using the "Custom" free assign mode.

The manual doesn't show it because it's not a standard configuration.

The other option, if you don't want to muck around with the custom amp assign configuration, is to simply shift 2 of the channels of the external amp to Zone 2, leaving 5 external amp channels in main zone with the receiver powering 6 channels (probably surround, surround back, and front height).

My Zone 2 is not a critical listening area, so I'd not want to devote my main amp for this purpose (Zone 1 is my HT). I would like to learn more about the "Custom" free method. What should be the steps to doing so? My current configurations is: Custom assign 7 preouts for LCRs, Wides, Heights. 4 internal amps for surrounds (sides+ rears). I'd like to figure out how to use use the idle 5 amps for Zone 2.
post #3977 of 7682
Thread Starter 
Here's how it goes (based on my reading of the manual):

1. In the AMP ASSIGN screen you set Assign Mode to "Custom" (see pg 140 of the manual)

2. You should then be presented with a screen that allows you to select which speaker terminals in the receiver output which channel (see the grid on pg 183 of the manual):



3. Note that the C, SL and SR amps cannot be reassigned even in "custom" free assign mode; they are fixed to their respective speaker terminals. However, since you are using the internal amps for the surrounds, that doesn't affect you. This means you now can reassign up to FOUR channels to Zone 2 and/or 3: the FR/FL speaker terminals, and the FHR/FHL speaker terminals. So you could theoretically assign the FR/FL speaker terminals to be Zone 2, and the Front Height terminals to be Zone 3. Or all 4 to Zone 2.

4. Note on the chart below on pg 183 that the pre-outs all still remain "hot" and are fixed to their labeled assignment, so you won't have to change any connections to the external amp.

5. After doing this, you will likely have to re-run Audyssey to account for the new speaker/amp configuration.
post #3978 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourbeef View Post

Yeah, I was thinking that could be it...only thing is there is no OFF on the HDMI passthrough submenu, you just pick one of your inputs, or Last but no OFF selection.

That is the "Pass Through Source" you are referring to as the "HDMI Pass Through" setting is either ON/OFF.

post #3979 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeantYnot View Post

If you have any of the "Network Always On", "HDMI Control" or "HDMI Passthrough" settings activated, this will have the red LED.

Turns out there's one more that will do it as well .... charging a MHL mobile device via the front HDMI 7 input. smile.gif
post #3980 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Actually technically you can do it using the "Custom" free assign mode.

The manual doesn't show it because it's not a standard configuration.

The other option, if you don't want to muck around with the custom amp assign configuration, is to simply shift 2 of the channels of the external amp to Zone 2, leaving 5 external amp channels in main zone with the receiver powering 6 channels (probably surround, surround back, and front height).


Ah yes, the ole "free assign" mode ... gets me everytime. redface.gif
post #3981 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

That is the "Pass Through Source" you are referring to as the "HDMI Pass Through" setting is either ON/OFF.


Yes, finally I see the difference. I don't know if it is me or the menus themselves that are confusing. smile.gif Anyhow I tested this in the OFF position >>>>> no red LED light on standby cool.gif
post #3982 of 7682
Praise the Lord! He sees the light! (er .... rather doesn't see the light). biggrin.gif
post #3983 of 7682
Update on my HDMI out issues. No issues (knock on wood) with new unit. Using all Monoprice cables w/ Redmere from sources and out M1.

Keeps telling me to update firmware. Has anyone updated in the last 7 days? Any issues?
post #3984 of 7682
I just checked yesterday and there were no updates... It must be the one I installed a month ago. I have not had any problems with the latest update.

Sent from my SGH-T879 using Tapatalk 2
post #3985 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by aharding View Post

I just purchased a refurbished one from the Denon website. The HDMI is not working correctly. I have both an xBox 360 and a Sony Blu-Ray Player connected as inputs and a Pioneer Plasma as the output. I have tried the Denon in both 720i and 1080i. The Pioneer is native 720i. The xBox 360 works correctly when directly connected to the TV. I added the Denon so that it could switch between the two inputs.

The screen will display the image, and then the screen will go black, or it will show rainbow ire pattern on the screen and then go blank.

I think the refurb from Denon didn't take? Any ideas?

I have a similar problem. I purchased a refurb unit directly from Denon and the HDMI output is starting to get flaky. Video cuts out and sound gets choppy. If I connect components direct to the TV without Denon in the middle everything is fine.

It's within 30 days so I assume I can just return it. If it's been through reburfb and has issues like this I don't want any long-term problems.

Did Denon help you?
post #3986 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by InspiredGeek View Post

I have a similar problem. I purchased a refurb unit directly from Denon and the HDMI output is starting to get flaky. Video cuts out and sound gets choppy. If I connect components direct to the TV without Denon in the middle everything is fine.

It's within 30 days so I assume I can just return it. If it's been through reburfb and has issues like this I don't want any long-term problems.

Did Denon help you?
Return it and buy a new one from Mike Garrett, AVS Forum sales. You will be surprised by the price!
post #3987 of 7682
How do you use banana speaker plugs with the AVR-4520 (European version)? The end of the AVR speaker terminal has a black plastic plug on the end that normally is easy to remove on an AVR (eg Arcam AVR600) but I can't seem to figure out how to remove this one and the manual only mentions this option (page 93): "Peel off about 10 mm of sheathing from the tip of the speaker cable, then either twist the core wire tightly or terminate it.".

Since many have mentioned the usage of speaker cables with banana plugs with the AVR-4520 it must be possible, but how should I remove the black plastic plug?
post #3988 of 7682
AFAIK, they are illegal in Europe as noted in the Denon Europe link below .....

http://denon-uk.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/943/~/a%2Fv-receiver-%2F-amplifier---banana-plugs
post #3989 of 7682
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

AFAIK, they are illegal in Europe as noted in the Denon Europe link below .....

http://denon-uk.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/943/~/a%2Fv-receiver-%2F-amplifier---banana-plugs

And the reason behind is that they can easily be plugged into a European wall outlet!! Just imagine kids playing while papa is out to work! frown.gif

Kids play, things happen,...both with kids and with 8 Ohm speakers connected to a 230 Volt/ 50 Hz input signal!! mad.gifeek.gif
post #3990 of 7682
Right .. thanks for the confirmation Feri. smile.gif
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