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The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 143

post #4261 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post

And now back to our regularly scheduled programing....

I just did a quick rudimentary setup of the new 4520, hookups are as follows...

DTV box connected to CBL/SAT on AVR with HDMI
Monitor 1 connected to TV with HDMI
Network connected with CAT5e to AVR hub 1
Front speakers only hooked up.

On initial power up, I did a full reset per instructions in post 3 of this thread, hoping this would clear any prior user settings, account settings, etc..connect
Checked Firmware, latest rev is installed.

Using the 4520 remote, I changed the network settings from DHCP to static.

Using my laptop to connect to the AVR works, however, any settings I try to change through the GUI do not take. For instance, Top Menu>>Setup Menu>>General...Zone Rename...
I try to change "Main Zone" to Living room...The screen updates, and it's back to Main Zone.

Any ideas, am I missing something?

Ensure the cursor isn't going to the "Set Defaults" option prior to pressing ENTER, otherwise, although a reset should have cleared up any problems, also try just unplugging the unit for a few minutes.
post #4262 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by didactandnarpet View Post

Hoping so of you knowledgeable people can help me out. I've been the proud owner of a shiny new 4520 for about a week now. Everything has been great up until today. Suddenly out of nowhere my PS3 won't handshake with the receiver anymore. I literally can't do anything on the PS3 without a "snow" screen appearing and then my samsung monitor telling me to check the signal cable. The only way to get a signal is to unplug and replug the hdmi cable. It's very infuriating as the PS3 is what I use the most, and I can't use it with my new 4520. I've tried everything I can think of... both hdmi cable work flawlessly connected directly to the monitor. Not a single hdmi input on the receiver works with the PS3. Every other hdmi device I own is functioning normal when connected to the receiver. I even pulled my old pioneer receiver out of the closet to eliminate any doubt. Needless to say the PS3 worked as normal when connect to my pioneer. I've reset the microprocessor twice which didn't help at all. Disabled deep color on the PS3. From what I've gathered it may be a hdcp handshake problem. The strange thing however is that it was working fine for about a week. Is this something I should talk to Denon about? I really don't want to keep this 4520 if I can't use my PS3 with it. I've recorded a video of the problem I'm facing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UghLsMEkvA

Try cycling the HDMI Control setting on the AVR ON/OFF as well as ensuring the Deep Color Output on the PS3 is set to OFF.
post #4263 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post

And now back to our regularly scheduled programing....

I just did a quick rudimentary setup of the new 4520, hookups are as follows...

DTV box connected to CBL/SAT on AVR with HDMI
Monitor 1 connected to TV with HDMI
Network connected with CAT5e to AVR hub 1
Front speakers only hooked up.

On initial power up, I did a full reset per instructions in post 3 of this thread, hoping this would clear any prior user settings, account settings, etc..connect
Checked Firmware, latest rev is installed.

Using the 4520 remote, I changed the network settings from DHCP to static.

Using my laptop to connect to the AVR works, however, any settings I try to change through the GUI do not take. For instance, Top Menu>>Setup Menu>>General...Zone Rename...
I try to change "Main Zone" to Living room...The screen updates, and it's back to Main Zone.

Any ideas, am I missing something?

Are you clicking the SET button after you rename the zone?
What browser are you using? Try a different browser.

Jerry
post #4264 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Ensure the cursor isn't going to the "Set Defaults" option prior to pressing ENTER, otherwise, although a reset should have cleared up any problems, also try just unplugging the unit for a few minutes.

No, the cursor is not going to "Set Defaults"
I will try unplugging it for a few...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Incollingo View Post

Are you clicking the SET button after you rename the zone?
What browser are you using? Try a different browser.

Yes, I click the "Set" button
Firefox 20.0.1 on Win7 Ultimate
Internet Explorer 9 on Win 7 Home
SeaMonkey 2.11 on Slackware 13.37
post #4265 of 7686
Price drop on Accessories4less. Widens that new vs. refurbished delta which was getting to be in favor of buying new.
post #4266 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post

No, the cursor is not going to "Set Defaults"
I will try unplugging it for a few...
Yes, I click the "Set" button
Firefox 20.0.1 on Win7 Ultimate
Internet Explorer 9 on Win 7 Home
SeaMonkey 2.11 on Slackware 13.37

Very odd. How about making the changes in the on-screen GUI menu as a test to see if the changes stick using that method.

Jer
post #4267 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Incollingo View Post

Very odd. How about making the changes in the on-screen GUI menu as a test to see if the changes stick using that method.

Jer

I failed to include that information...
Yes, changes made using the on-screen GUI do work.
The web interface not working is not a deal breaker, it's just slow and cumbersome using the remote to do everything...
post #4268 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post

I failed to include that information...
Yes, changes made using the on-screen GUI do work.
The web interface not working is not a deal breaker, it's just slow and cumbersome using the remote to do everything...

Well it should work so I would not accept it as is. Next step would be to call Denon and see if they have any ideas then if they can't resolve it decide if you want to go through the hassle of getting a replacement. Sorry you couldn't get it resolved.

Jerry
post #4269 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Incollingo View Post

Next step would be to call Denon and see if they have any ideas.

My only problem with calling Denon is their hours, the only time they are open I'm at work...
post #4270 of 7686
Do any of you guys know if this unit has the ability to do Pre-Out/Main-In? I have a band pass sub that I use with my Front speakers and was planning to leave the Front speakers on the receiver. But if this unit cannot do Pre-Out/Main-In then I will have to move the sub to something like my Front Highs which are on a separate amp so I can put the band pass crossover inline between the Denon and Emotiva amp.
post #4271 of 7686
Thread Starter 
No, modern receivers don't have that anymore. AFAIK that feature is there to allow an external EQ loop but these receivers have built in digital room correction software.
post #4272 of 7686
Well crap. That is what I was thinking, I suppose I will loop my bandpass sub into the Front High channels that go to a separate amp until such time as I replace it with a second LFE style sub.

Thanks Batpig!
post #4273 of 7686
Does anyone think that Denon (or Marantz) will introduce a new receiver model above the AVR-4520Ci in the near future ?

Chuck
post #4274 of 7686
Not me. Next summer (2014) might be a possiblilty. Supposedly HDMI V2.0 chips aren't expected to be available until late in 2014, though. I think they would be needed to provide a noticeable feature upgrade. That kind of schedule suggests equipment using them might be available in the summer/fall of 2015 -- 2 years from now.
post #4275 of 7686
That is when I am going to update my equipment, after HDMI 2.0 is released.
post #4276 of 7686
I thought HDMI was about to be replaced with some sort of cat 6 cable.
post #4277 of 7686
^^
10Base-T has been discussed for several years, and AFAIK some of the AVR mfrs are starting to look at its functionality, although HDMI 2.0 is far more likely to be introduced before 10Base-T goes mainstream.
post #4278 of 7686
Gentleman, I have a question about the setup for my subwoofer, when I run audyssey. I have a Monitor Authority MAS 1 amplifier. The instructions from the owner's manual of the 4520 states that if you have a line level in on the subwoofer use that. I have been using line level in for quite some time with my B&K receiver. The line level input on my subwoofer has a left and right input. I have always used a short jumper to connect left and right to the one line level in (lfe) from the receiver. This seems to have worked well. I do not know if the amplifier has a right and left line level in because it has 2 woofers. So I am asking is this the way I should connect the 4520 to my subwoofer or would I have the same results by connecting the 4520 subwoofer output one and subwoofer two to the left and right inputs on my MAS1? Thanks
post #4279 of 7686
Most subs with dual line level inputs suggest connecting to the "L" input in the case of a single LFE cable which is all you need to do here as well as the 2nd pre-out is designed for a 2nd sub in the setup.
post #4280 of 7686
Ok thanks. Is line level output, lfe and subwoofer out 1&2 on the 4520 one and the same.
post #4281 of 7686
Yes.
post #4282 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post



Various resets for the 4520CI: press/hold the following buttons on the front panel while powering on the AVR

Full/Deep Reset - resets the network card (NIC) and the microprocessor: UP/DOWN arrow buttons

Network Reset - resets the network card (NIC) only: DIMMER/INFO

Microprocessor Reset - resets the microprocessor only: INFO/BACK

I found this only works if HDMI pass through is turned off as well as setting network to "off in standby"
I found this hint on another forum today at while I was at work, I can't remember which one at the moment....

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post

On initial power up, I did a full reset per instructions in post 3 of this thread, hoping this would clear any prior user settings, account settings, etc..connect
Checked Firmware, latest rev is installed.

When I did this I had HDMI pass through turned on and Network set to always on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ceh383 View Post

Using my laptop to connect to the AVR works, however, any settings I try to change through the GUI do not take. For instance, Top Menu>>Setup Menu>>General...Zone Rename...
I try to change "Main Zone" to Living room...The screen updates, and it's back to Main Zone.

After turning HDMI pass through off as well as setting network to "off in standby" then doing the full reset, the web interface now works.

I guess it's all in the details...
Edited by ceh383 - 5/3/13 at 8:28pm
post #4283 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Try cycling the HDMI Control setting on the AVR ON/OFF as well as ensuring the Deep Color Output on the PS3 is set to OFF.

Thanks for the advice. I tried both and unfortunately nothing I do is making my PS3 play nice. 1080p just won't pass thru my 4520. Maybe future firmware updates from both devices will help at some point. I did manage to find a workaround to my problem that I'm happy with. Apparently the PS3 only employs HDCP on a 1080p signal. By setting the PS3 to output 1080i and then having the Denon upconvert that signal to 1080p I'm getting a great picture and full functionality back. It's not ideal, but to my eyes it looks basically the same as full hd. Also I can now watch Netflix Super HD again... so I'm happy.
Although out of curiosity is anyone else having issues with their PS3????
post #4284 of 7686
Quote:
Originally Posted by dceaddy View Post

Ok thanks. Is line level output, lfe and subwoofer out 1&2 on the 4520 one and the same.
Yah, sorta. The sub channel output is line level and it does contain the LFE content. It also contains redirected bass crossed over from the satellite channels. It connects to the line level/LFE input on the sub.

But, as jd noted, sub 1 and sub 2 are not the same-they are not just internally y-connected as on some AVRs. This model has Audyssey SubEQHT and sub 1/2 are intended for the different subs. During Autosetup they are pinged separately for level and distance, then pinged together for EQ. They are not R&L and both should not be connected to the same sub.
post #4285 of 7686
I have the L&R connected on the sub using a jumper. Does this help or hurt the sub output or should i just do what jt recommend and just use the L imput on the sub. Or does it make any difference. Thanks.
post #4286 of 7686
^For an authoratative answer I'd consult my sub's Owners Manual or contact the OEM CS.
post #4287 of 7686
I'm now on my 5th replacement from OneCall, the last exchange I got the power supply hum was so loud it could be heard from 6 feet away. In other bad luck, I received my 90" Sharp TV cracked down the middle, and my 80" Sharp LC-80LE857 with smashed corner damage.
post #4288 of 7686
Wow, sounds like you are electronically cursed dude! I feel for you, not much worse than getting cool new toys and they are all busted.

In other news, I figured out how to hook up my band pass sub. I am putting the subs crossover inline with the from heights, since they are on a separate amp, and will just make sure that they are set to large in the system so they are passed full signal.
post #4289 of 7686
IMG_0029.jpg 641k .jpg file

I have a question about front wide speaker placement. I have a Denon AVR 4520 CI and an running 9.4 currently. I am using a Emotiva XPR-5 to run my L/R/C and Surrounds. My 4520 CI is running front Heights and Rear Surrounds. I was wondering from my picture of my room, do I have enough room for Front Wides on my wall?

Thanks for the input. smile.gif
post #4290 of 7686
Thread Starter 
No, not in the front wall. Your front speakers are already pretty wide and close to the corners. Considering your room, wide speakers would have to go in the side walls a few forward from the front wall. Note that the wides are supposed to be wider than the heights and your heights are already in the corner.

The important thing is the angular separation from the front speakers, the wides help to fill the "gap" between the fronts and surrounds and generate reflections to make the room feel wider than it is.

Sweet looking room though smile.gif
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