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The **OFFICIAL** DENON AVR-4520CI thread - Page 30

post #871 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobal View Post

Hi and thx again for the tips. I was away thats why I couldnt write sooner.
I did use toslink and I got the sound from the TV so thanks smile.gif
I was expecting to have the sound by using only Hdmi but apparently I was wrong wink.gif
Thats not good that via airplay you can play only audio not video frown.gif hope they can add videoes to airplay streaming to denon aswell.
All now working well with my Denon 4520 and I love the sound and picture quality smile.gif
I am trying to use the denon remote controll to control my Tv and ps3 and Cbl. Sofar only the Tv has been with success.
I am ordering an Oppo very soon. Which model you guys think I should choose from Oppo BDP-103 and 105? And how should I connect it to Denon in order to get the best quality?

 

Glad that the Toslink solved the audio issue!  As far as Airplay being audio only, that is just the way it is.  I believe I mentioned earlier, Apple TV is a reasonanbly-priced option you might want to consider.

 

The Oppo 105 has the enhanced analog audio, I believe.  To take full advantage of this superior audio interface, one of your connections would need to be analog stereo, with no analog-to-digital conversion in the signal path, i.e. no Audyssey room correction, no bass management, etc.  If you value playing music in stereo with a good set of speakers set to "Large", then the 105 may be worth the price difference for you.

 

Having said that, my BDP-93 playing through the HDMI connection, using full Audyssey room correction, DEQ, etc. sounds superb.  For me, the enhanced audio curcuitry of the BDP-95 (and now the 105) was not a good value.

post #872 of 7712
Hello I'm the proud owner of the denon avr2311 I was wondering thatis it worth upgrading to this 4520 or 3313 I've had my system for nearly 2 years now. I'm currently using the b&w mt30 series on it (previous model) so it is the 2004 onwards looks. Please let me know would appreciate the help

Thank you people smile.gif
post #873 of 7712
The 3313CI would get you an upgrade in new features, while the 4520CI (at considerably higher expense) will get you better audio fidelity and new features.
post #874 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

The 3313CI would get you an upgrade in new features, while the 4520CI (at considerably higher expense) will get you better audio fidelity and new features.

Thanks for quickly reply mate smile.gif don't mind about the money I just want something future proof and worth it I paid £400 for my 2311 as it was on sale what's better for my system I also going to upgrade my denon dbt-1611 to the dbt-3313 is it worth it

Thanks smile.gif
post #875 of 7712
Haven't seen any feedback on it, but it currently is the only BDP that can use the new Denon Link HD connection on either the AVR-3313CI or the 4520CI.
post #876 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Haven't seen any feedback on it, but it currently is the only BDP that can use the new Denon Link HD connection on either the AVR-3313CI or the 4520CI.


All in all do you think I should upgrade from 2311 to 4520? I'm a bit confused and baffled on what to do as I really want to upgrade but if I don't need to there no point

Thanks
post #877 of 7712
How you spend your money is your chose ... only you can decide. A good rule of thumb is that the AVR should cost about 1/2 of your total 5.1 speaker/sub setup. You would be better served (at much reduced cost) to try to get a hold of a 4311 on clearance as it also uses the same more advanced Audyssey Mult EQ XT32 as does the 4520.
post #878 of 7712
Oh okay no problem what system do you have. Would you think it's and ideal upgrade to the 4520

Thanks
post #879 of 7712
Again, either the 4311 or the 4520 would be a more noticeable upgrade to the 2311. The 3313 would provide some improvement in audio quality as it upgrades to the MultEQ XT (forgot that the 2311 only has MultEQ), as is the more budget friendly, cost effective purchase.
post #880 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Again, either the 4311 or the 4520 would be a more noticeable upgrade to the 2311. The 3313 would provide some improvement in audio quality as it upgrades to the MultEQ XT (forgot that the 2311 only has MultEQ), as is the more budget friendly, cost effective purchase.


Thanks for your help mate given me a better understanding going to see if I can get a demo

Thanks
post #881 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singhisking2012 View Post

Thanks for quickly reply mate smile.gif don't mind about the money I just want something future proof and worth it I paid £400 for my 2311 as it was on sale what's better for my system I also going to upgrade my denon dbt-1611 to the dbt-3313 is it worth it
Thanks smile.gif

It's worth it!! I upgraded my DVD-2500BTCI to the DBT-3313CI. I'm using it with the AVR-4520CI
post #882 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singhisking2012 View Post

All in all do you think I should upgrade from 2311 to 4520? I'm a bit confused and baffled on what to do as I really want to upgrade but if I don't need to there no point
Thanks

If you want better HT performance and are not too good with manually doing it yourself, the 4311 is a high VFM buy.

The 4520 may not give you a lot more bang for the buck, and if stereo performance is your thing, it's better spent on a stereo amp. The 4311 at it's current pricing gives you most of the best parts of the 4520.

See batpig's first few posts for the differences between the 4311 and 4520 and you can decide if the cost difference is worth it.
post #883 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark1 View Post

Contact Mike @ AVS, I'm getting mine from him for a very attractive price (much much lower than msrp)! wink.gif

Seems quite a few of the regulars here have worked with Mike with good feedback. I will check around and see what is available now.

On a different note, does anyone here use both a Denon 4520CI (or anything similar) in conjunction with Sonos wireless speakers to get more than 3 audio zones? Any tips if I were to contemplate this?
post #884 of 7712
AFAIK, Sonos uses RCA connections so you would need to connect to either the Zone 2 or 3 pre-outs as well as connecting any external sources to the AVR with RCA cables as well.
post #885 of 7712
Has anybody tried using the zone 4 HDMI with something like this to distribution the zone 4 throughout the house over cat 5 as a home distribution system? If so how were the results and what remotes were you using? I presume some RF type remote to change not only the input on Zone 4 (ie. from BD to Satellite) but actually the menu/channels of the source itself. I am trying to get around spending the $$$ on a crestron or similar system.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011307&p_id=8159&seq=1&format=2

FYI 4520CI comes in a week replacing a Pioneer Elite VSx94th (or something like that).
post #886 of 7712
One point to note with the Zone 4(HDMI) is that if the Zone 4 devices are TVs that can only accept a PCM 2.0 signal, then when you are playing the same source as in the main zone, the main zone will likely be limited to only PCM 2.0 stereo. .
post #887 of 7712
FYI, MA now has 4520 faceplate in their database after I gave them the dimension graph of the unit from Denon and had them custom cut one for me. wink.gif

post #888 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Here are my measurement comparisons once again:



As is clear from the details, only the two operations that involve data transfer using the serial interface are slower--the other steps are roughly the same. 

And yes, I am using all four ports on the network switch.  Not sure how that would affect serial port speeds, but if you think it would be worth it, I could run a quick 3-position calibration without any network connections to see if that would make any difference.

Stuart, I don't think anyone would justify the purchase based on a potential flatter bass response.  After all, I achieved a flat response with the 4311, just with a bit of tweaking.  IMO, the justification would be for the enhanced features or, in my case, a desire to have an XT32/Pro-capable AVR in the bedroom as well.

I'm going to ping Denon tomorrow to see if I can get them to comment on the serial port speed issue.

Good luck, Jerry.

To justifying the purchase - this is AVS:). Rationally there's little justification to upgrade just because of this potential base response 'fix', but for those that want their new shiny toys, it's a consideration:)......

BTW I agree with you, which is why I'm sticking with my 4311 for the moment. I'd much rather have the (currently) faster Pro Cal and spend the time doing the distance tweak (which also encourages post-cal assessment) than wait an extra hour or more for an eight position calibration, with the benefit of saving some minutes on a post-Cal tweak. However, if you don't have a 4311 (but can get one), and the alternative choice is the 4520, I'd go with the 4520. It adds to the value of the overall 'bundle', but it isn't a dealmaker at the moment.

Having said all that, I hope you're enjoying your new toy:).
post #889 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Here are my measurement comparisons once again:



As is clear from the details, only the two operations that involve data transfer using the serial interface are slower--the other steps are roughly the same. 

And yes, I am using all four ports on the network switch.  Not sure how that would affect serial port speeds, but if you think it would be worth it, I could run a quick 3-position calibration without any network connections to see if that would make any difference.

Stuart, I don't think anyone would justify the purchase based on a potential flatter bass response.  After all, I achieved a flat response with the 4311, just with a bit of tweaking.  IMO, the justification would be for the enhanced features or, in my case, a desire to have an XT32/Pro-capable AVR in the bedroom as well.

I'm going to ping Denon tomorrow to see if I can get them to comment on the serial port speed issue.

any comment from them would be helpful... smile.gif

i'm going to try to try it without the switch this afternoon, i have a conference call that i just have to listen in on... excellent opportunity for calibration...

i'm thinking about it... my days of tcp/ip stacks, telnet and *nix shells were a LONG time ago, and i've forgotten more than i remember... redface.gif old age does that to you...
post #890 of 7712
re: network connected and aud pro...

the answer is "no, it's just as slow when the hub is inactive"....

calling bfreedma... calling bfreedma.... you remember your telnet/*nix skills?
post #891 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

re: network connected and aud pro...
the answer is "no, it's just as slow when the hub is inactive"....
calling bfreedma... calling bfreedma.... you remember your telnet/*nix skills?

Thanks for confirming this, Chris. I really didn't want to get the kit out again.
post #892 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by agleung View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark1 View Post

Contact Mike @ AVS, I'm getting mine from him for a very attractive price (much much lower than msrp)! wink.gif

Seems quite a few of the regulars here have worked with Mike with good feedback. I will check around and see what is available now.

On a different note, does anyone here use both a Denon 4520CI (or anything similar) in conjunction with Sonos wireless speakers to get more than 3 audio zones? Any tips if I were to contemplate this?

i will vouch for mike and recommend him highly... smile.gif

not sure... flesh out a little bit what you want to do...
post #893 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinJerry View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

re: network connected and aud pro...
the answer is "no, it's just as slow when the hub is inactive"....
calling bfreedma... calling bfreedma.... you remember your telnet/*nix skills?

Thanks for confirming this, Chris. I really didn't want to get the kit out again.

i figured i'd cut you a break, since you've done all the heavy lifting so far... smile.gif

we will figure it out eventually... whether anything can be done about it remains to be seen...
post #894 of 7712
Has anybody actually measured the serial data rate?

Curious - Don
post #895 of 7712
^^^

if bfreedma can find his breakout box in his collection of misfit electronics, i will...

any thoughts you have are always welcome don... smile.gif
post #896 of 7712

I just finished a call to Denon Tech Support regarding my two cases, one concerning the serial data speed, and the other asking how to turn off the screensaver when no video signal is present (e.g. when I listen to music from my Sonos system).  Both cases were opened on October 16.

 

The cases were escalated to Engineering, with no response on either case yet.  The support rep will ping Engineering again to see if we can get an indication whether either issue can be fixed.  I'll update this thread when (and if) I get a reply from Denon.

post #897 of 7712
ok, i found some software to sniff the com port...

it is writing data at a grand total of an averagenof 30 bytes/s... which is equivalent to 240 baud rate...

it is reading data at a rate of about 925 bytes/s... roughly 7400 baud, which is about what you would expect for a "standard" 9600 baud rate (which is what the serial protocol of the avr calls for)...

thoughts?

anyone who wants the software, you can download a trial edition from:

www.hhdsoftware.com/serial-monitor...

click the download button when you get there, it gives you a 14 day trial...
post #898 of 7712
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

ok, i found some software to sniff the com port...
it is writing data at a grand total of an averagenof 30 bytes/s... which is equivalent to 240 baud rate...
it is reading data at a rate of about 925 bytes/s... roughly 7400 baud, which is about what you would expect for a "standard" 9600 baud rate (which is what the serial protocol of the avr calls for)...
thoughts?
anyone who wants the software, you can download a trial edition from:
www.hhdsoftware.com/serial-monitor...
click the download button when you get there, it gives you a 14 day trial...

240 baud? At the speed of a modem connected to a mainframe over standard telephone lines in....1976?

I only know this because in the 1980's, I had a job where I briefly had to use a 300 baud modem to connect to a mainframe called a Telefile, running proprietary Xerox Fortran software. Even then it was out of date by a good decade, at least. I used to have to type commands, which would operate at the speed of a slow line terminal. Six months later, the whole system was replaced by a Unix based 486 and 9600 baud modems. Ah, the good old days.

Sheer irony...the newest and greatest writing data at the slowest.

How far we've come eek.gif
post #899 of 7712
^^^

yea, i had one of those 300 baud, put the phone on it modems way back in the day... it was handy for those middle of the night phone calls, but it was still faster for me to drive into the office and fix the problem... tongue.gif you could literally watch stuff come up one letter at a time on the screen... but if i was, umm, not functional enough to drive, it worked well enough...

i don't miss those days (production support sucks)... although i do miss "big iron"... smile.gif
post #900 of 7712
Hey Chris -- I try to not say much in these threads when I don't own the product. Already got kicked out of one, don't want to get a rep for being an abuser.

I must have glitched somewhere. Baud is the symbol rate, so when you convert 30 bytes/s to 240 baud how are you doing that? Is it really one bit per symbol? In the teletype days of screaming 300 baud, 1 byte/s was 1 baud/s (7-bit ANSI ASCII plus a parity bit, oh boy!) And yes, when I was a TA in college I had a teletype in my office. OK, we had CRT terminals too, but the teletype was still in use, as were card readers. I do NOT miss those days!

At any rate, when most all UARTs for the past decade or two can handle 192 kb/s, I find it, um, "interesting" they chose to run at only 240 b/s. Seems awfully slow. At any rate, assuming we got it right, that would go a long way in explaining why the serial link is so slow.

Maybe we should tell them about USB, and that you can get really cheap chips to do that, so perhaps they should think about adding a USB port? Or maybe even a cheap 100 Mb/s Ethernet port, you know, like a network port? Oh, wait, what?
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