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Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 44

post #1291 of 1794
Hi quick question, when you set the memory zoom for 2.35 and 16:9 does the projector recognize the format being display and change to the correct memory or you have to do it manually?
Tks
Daniel
post #1292 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by milll36 View Post

Hi quick question, when you set the memory zoom for 2.35 and 16:9 does the projector recognize the format being display and change to the correct memory or you have to do it manually?
Tks
Daniel
Manually.
post #1293 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by milll36 View Post

Hi quick question, when you set the memory zoom for 2.35 and 16:9 does the projector recognize the format being display and change to the correct memory or you have to do it manually?
Tks
Daniel

And per JVC instructions, Use the Focus only the first time when you set the first memory, be it any aspect ratio.
post #1294 of 1794
It's been nearly 2 weeks since taking delivery of the 4810. We continue to be impressed. When I set the projector up I used an sd-dvd, something we'd watched the night before and still in the player. All I was trying to do was verify that the projector was working. Frankly, the image didn't look very good. OK, I thought, we'll be primarily watching Blu-Ray with this projector. This was in keeping with our RS45. Blu-Ray looked great, but it was pretty unforgiving of marginal source material. After getting comfortable with the eShift, I "discovered" that one of the settings was labeled "SD", so I tried that and was very, very surprised to discover that SD material looked good on the 4810. The increased pixel density provided a richer looking image, even on marginal source material! Our conclusion is that the additional settings on the 4810 allow for more adjustments that can bring out the best in any source material (but I'm not about to drag out the old VHS tape deck!).

It should be noted that our prime viewing spot is 1x the width of our screen. We sit close. That makes the improved image even more impressive.

3D looked great! It's something we simply didn't even try with our RS45. As noted in an earlier post, there aren't enough films available in 3D that we are interested in. Now I'm placing orders! We're using the Samsung 5100 glasses and they seem to work well. We haven't tried other glasses, but it is hard to imagine the JVC or other glasses can justify an extra $80 per pair. However, to be fair, we are open-minded about this. If any of you wish to loan us a pair of JVC glasses (actually 2 pair would be best), we'll be happy to compare and write up our observations. biggrin.gif We'll also accept donations.
post #1295 of 1794
I have the Samsung 5100 glasses and the JVC glasses. The JVCs are noticeably brighter but it's hard to justify their price unless you're hurting for lumens.
post #1296 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by cischico View Post

I have the Samsung 5100 glasses and the JVC glasses. The JVCs are noticeably brighter but it's hard to justify their price unless you're hurting for lumens.

I have the x35, but same 3d glasses I think, and also got a Samsung f8500. I was so thrilled when I tried the jvc glasses and they sync'd up with my Sammy. larger glasses, rechargeable, I thought it was great.

unfortunately, about 30mins into the first 3d movie I watch on the jvc with the jvc glasses I found myself switching over to the Samsung ones because I found the jvc ones far too uncomfortable.

there were some occasional sync issues with the Sammy glasses (twice during the movie) and I find the lenses too small to cover my whole field of vision, so I was pretty surprised to find out they were my preferred pair.

I personally didn't notice any difference in picture quality or brightness between the two, but i'm not a real 3D fanatic to notice these things anyway.

I just wish somebody could make 3D glasses with a curved lens. I really can't stand the flat lenses, they just don't fit my head at all frown.gif
post #1297 of 1794
There should be a big sticky post in this forum to warn people about brightness differences with 3D glasses because this information regularly gets lost and buried in threads.

The light coming out of the projector is polarized. Every manufacturer of projector except JVC uses vertically polarized light output. JVC uses horizontally polarized light. There is no specific reason why one polarization is better than the other or why only JVC chose to be different to the other manufacturers. Accordingly the glasses also use a polarized lens that matches the polarization of light from the projector. This means all 3D glasses sold today that are not special JVC ones, are vertically polarized. When the light from the projector hits the screen material and bounces off it, depending on the type of material, that reflected light may change to random polarization, or it may maintain it. Particularly, high gain materials and grey materials tend to maintain a noticeable level of polarization. This is a good thing. If the projector, reflected light and glasses all match, you will get the brightest 3D image possible. The problem though is that you need to have the right glasses.

To see if your screen material maintains some level of polarization is very easy. Display an "all white" screen. Then put a pair of your 3D glasses on. You do not need to engage any 3D modes. Now turn your head on its side as near to 90 degrees as you can. Do you see the brightness of the white image change? If it does, then it means your screen does maintain some level of polarization and you should only invest in JVC or compatible glasses. Some screen materials do so well at this, that if you use non-JVC glasses the image is nearly black!

Often people try to avoid JVC glasses due to the expense. In the UK, one reseller has managed to get XpanD to make a special run of glasses with the lenses horizontally polarized for a lot less than the JVC pricing. However, as brightness is a premium in 3D particularly as the bulb ages, I strongly recommend you evaluate how your screen material behaves before purchasing non-JVC glasses.
post #1298 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

There should be a big sticky post in this forum to warn people about brightness differences with 3D glasses because this information regularly gets lost and buried in threads.

The light coming out of the projector is polarized. Every manufacturer of projector except JVC uses vertically polarized light output. JVC uses horizontally polarized light. There is no specific reason why one polarization is better than the other or why only JVC chose to be different to the other manufacturers. Accordingly the glasses also use a polarized lens that matches the polarization of light from the projector. This means all 3D glasses sold today that are not special JVC ones, are vertically polarized. When the light from the projector hits the screen material and bounces off it, depending on the type of material, that reflected light may change to random polarization, or it may maintain it. Particularly, high gain materials and grey materials tend to maintain a noticeable level of polarization. This is a good thing. If the projector, reflected light and glasses all match, you will get the brightest 3D image possible. The problem though is that you need to have the right glasses.

To see if your screen material maintains some level of polarization is very easy. Display an "all white" screen. Then put a pair of your 3D glasses on. You do not need to engage any 3D modes. Now turn your head on its side as near to 90 degrees as you can. Do you see the brightness of the white image change? If it does, then it means your screen does maintain some level of polarization and you should only invest in JVC or compatible glasses. Some screen materials do so well at this, that if you use non-JVC glasses the image is nearly black!

Often people try to avoid JVC glasses due to the expense. In the UK, one reseller has managed to get XpanD to make a special run of glasses with the lenses horizontally polarized for a lot less than the JVC pricing. However, as brightness is a premium in 3D particularly as the bulb ages, I strongly recommend you evaluate how your screen material behaves before purchasing non-JVC glasses.

Makes sense, for me I tend to like the JVC glasses more so than the Samsungs, but its probably more so than the slight brightness difference as you mentioned due to my screen retaining some of the polarized light.

Anyone have any suggestions for what gamma mode to run in 3D? I just realized I can't customize it :-(
post #1299 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by cischico View Post

Makes sense, for me I tend to like the JVC glasses more so than the Samsungs, but its probably more so than the slight brightness difference as you mentioned due to my screen retaining some of the polarized light.

Anyone have any suggestions for what gamma mode to run in 3D? I just realized I can't customize it :-(

You really need to calibrate properly behind the glasses for 3D. You should be able to customize the gamma. Just use a user preset, not the button marked 3D.
post #1300 of 1794
My 4810 was calibrated through the jvc glasses. I tried the samsung glasses and it was a noticeable difference. But the Samsung glasses are for the kids. I have 3pr of the Jvc and 4 pr of the Samsung
post #1301 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

You really need to calibrate properly behind the glasses for 3D. You should be able to customize the gamma. Just use a user preset, not the button marked 3D.


Seems like no matter what I do, the custom gamma modes are unavailable when I do 3D. I have the meter behind the glasses but I can only choose Normal through H gamma mode when it's on 3D... I must be missing something
post #1302 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by cischico View Post

Seems like no matter what I do, the custom gamma modes are unavailable when I do 3D. I have the meter behind the glasses but I can only choose Normal through H gamma mode when it's on 3D... I must be missing something

Or maybe it is restricted. On the X35 you can never choose custom1-3. But I thought on the other models you could as long as you were not on the 3D preset (e.g. User 1). I will have to try this myself on my X75.
post #1303 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Or maybe it is restricted. On the X35 you can never choose custom1-3. But I thought on the other models you could as long as you were not on the 3D preset (e.g. User 1). I will have to try this myself on my X75.

That would be super weak if I can't adjust gamma. I can adjust everything else. The gamma curve for those presets are all strange. They all follow the same curve damn near but at varying starting levels.

I already spent a couple of days calibrating and I thought my green was under saturated but after playing with the color spaces and switching between them all of a sudden green was fine. Unfortunately not being able to do a custom gamma for 3D seems by design thus far.

Thanks for looking into it.
post #1304 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

There should be a big sticky post in this forum to warn people about brightness differences with 3D glasses because this information regularly gets lost and buried in threads.

The light coming out of the projector is polarized. Every manufacturer of projector except JVC uses vertically polarized light output. JVC uses horizontally polarized light. There is no specific reason why one polarization is better than the other or why only JVC chose to be different to the other manufacturers. Accordingly the glasses also use a polarized lens that matches the polarization of light from the projector. This means all 3D glasses sold today that are not special JVC ones, are vertically polarized. When the light from the projector hits the screen material and bounces off it, depending on the type of material, that reflected light may change to random polarization, or it may maintain it. Particularly, high gain materials and grey materials tend to maintain a noticeable level of polarization. This is a good thing. If the projector, reflected light and glasses all match, you will get the brightest 3D image possible. The problem though is that you need to have the right glasses.

To see if your screen material maintains some level of polarization is very easy. Display an "all white" screen. Then put a pair of your 3D glasses on. You do not need to engage any 3D modes. Now turn your head on its side as near to 90 degrees as you can. Do you see the brightness of the white image change? If it does, then it means your screen does maintain some level of polarization and you should only invest in JVC or compatible glasses. Some screen materials do so well at this, that if you use non-JVC glasses the image is nearly black!

Often people try to avoid JVC glasses due to the expense. In the UK, one reseller has managed to get XpanD to make a special run of glasses with the lenses horizontally polarized for a lot less than the JVC pricing. However, as brightness is a premium in 3D particularly as the bulb ages, I strongly recommend you evaluate how your screen material behaves before purchasing non-JVC glasses.

I thought active 3D didn't use polarized light...?
post #1305 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Or maybe it is restricted. On the X35 you can never choose custom1-3. But I thought on the other models you could as long as you were not on the 3D preset (e.g. User 1). I will have to try this myself on my X75.

i'm using custom 1-3 on my x35. I don't remember what happens with 3D on, but i'm 100% using a 'custom' gamma on my x35 for 2D. unless you are talking about a fully calibrated gamma, that I have not done as I don't have the gear.
post #1306 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

I thought active 3D didn't use polarized light...?

Not in the way you are thinking (like a cinema). In a movie theatre/cinema, the two eyes see different images because the light is polarized differently for each eye, and the two lenses in the glasses are different to each other. In the case of the JVC glasses for example, both lenses are polarized the same way. To be clear, ALL light is polarized...there is technically no such thing as unpolarized light. When we refer to unpolarized light, what we mean is that the light particles are randomly polarized. And of course there isn't just horizontal or vertical, but all the other degrees inbetween. I am not sure why the light coming out of the projector is all polarized the same way. I don't know if that is inherent in the design of any projector, or something done for a specific reason. Nevertheless this is the case and it doesn't just apply to 3D projectors.
post #1307 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by fierce_gt View Post

i'm using custom 1-3 on my x35. I don't remember what happens with 3D on, but i'm 100% using a 'custom' gamma on my x35 for 2D. unless you are talking about a fully calibrated gamma, that I have not done as I don't have the gear.

I just checked. None of the current range allow you to choose custom1-3 WHILE a 3D image is being displayed. When a 3D image is displayed on an X35, you can only choose, A-C and on an X55,75,95 you can choose A-H and Normal.

I was being dumb. I remembered how I did it before. I wasn't using the built-in gamma adjustments at all...I was using my Radiance processor!
post #1308 of 1794
Anyone know if D-nice calibrates projectors??
post #1309 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bardia View Post

Anyone know if D-nice calibrates projectors??

I have heard the name but not sure what he does. Where are you located? There is a guy here on the forum somewhat local to me that is an ISF calibrator. I purchased an amp from him a few years ago and have talked to him about calibrating my projector once I have everything ready to go. Seems like a nice guy and depending on where you are could possibly do a calibration.
post #1310 of 1794
dropzone-

I live in Charlotte as well and was wondering if I could get the name of the calibrator you mentioned? I'm thinking of purchasing a new bulb for my vw95 and wanted to eventually get it recalibrated. Thank you
post #1311 of 1794
My 4810 has been amazing since I purchased it about 7 months ago. No issues at all and love the picture. Last night it starting having some issues and just wanted to see if anyone else has had issues similar.

When I first powered up the system the far right, about 1/8th of the total screen, top to bottom was black. It almost looked like something was blocking the picture. I fired up the lens memory system to make sure that it hadn't been bumped out of alignment. Everything looked good except the far right of the screen was black from top to bottom. I turned off the projector for about 10 minutes and powered it back on. The issue was gone. I was revealed but still concerned.

About an hour and a half into the movie the entire screen flickered on then off for less than a second. About 20 minutes later a white band taking up about 1.4th of the screen from left to right flashed across the screen. Gone within 1 second. Then about 10 minutes later the entire screen flickered off again for less than a second. I decided to turn off the system for the night.

With all my new sound system playing at near reference levels I didn't realize there was a pretty strong thunderstorm rolling through. When it was all of I could hear a ton of thunder and saw non-stop lightning. I was curious if maybe the house was losing power long enough for the projector to lose picture but not long enough for the rest of the equipment to lose power. I will check it out again today to see if there is still an issue.

Anyone have any idea what this might be or why this might have happened?

Thanks in advance.
post #1312 of 1794
It's kind of hard to say what happened. I live in Japan and my RS4810 runs fne on 100V so unless you dipped to 90V or so I dont see an issue with power. Is your projector on a good power strip?

My RS4810 has been outstanding. I don't use any convergence controls as its very spot on. I have very light red fringing. I'm talking very light where my eyeball is to the screen and I can only notice on white text. The fringing is the same throughout the entire screen which is the left side of the text. I can use the fine alignment controls to eliminate it completely but I saw the discussion that it reduces resolution, so I just leave it alone. I find it interesting the panels have more pixels than 1920x1080. That might explain why in a complete pitch black room I see what looks like a "frame" around the image. It is very very faint. My Epson 5020 didnt have this or maybe I never noticed. On my Epson I did notice the pixel alignment defintily used two pixels and just varied the intensity between the two to create the illusion. I havent really messed with it on the 4810 but its porbably similar.

I been reading the older threads and that people have been cleaning the prism on a somewhat regular basis to eliminate the fog, haze something build up. I havent heard of any discussion about it here so I hope I dont have to worry about that. I plan to use my 4810 until the lens fall off unless somethiing really good comes out this year like x95 specs at 4-5K.
post #1313 of 1794
Just out of curiosity, whats the largest lower gain screen anyone is using their 4810 on?? I am planning to use a different pj long term, but at the price I can get a 4810 for, I almost want to just buy one to use for the next six months or so until I can install the other unit. Thanks!
post #1314 of 1794
Thread Starter 
150" wide Seymour AV 1. 0 gain

Have to run high lamp full open iris.
post #1315 of 1794
148" Draper Clarion Matt White 1.0 Gain. Used with an anamorphic lens. Can run with lamp in low mode with open iris. 3D leaves a lot to be desired because of lack of brightness.
post #1316 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by cischico View Post

It's kind of hard to say what happened. I live in Japan and my RS4810 runs fne on 100V so unless you dipped to 90V or so I dont see an issue with power. Is your projector on a good power strip?

If the very high voltage distribution power lines are over-ground, and lightning is actually hitting them, this can cause the local sub-station to protectively cut the power for a very short time (e.g. for 100th of a second) but with a total drop to 0V. It is fast enough that equipment doesn't power off, but enough that you would see a light bulb flicker. Normally these issues are smoothed by the capacitors in the power supply of the appliance (hence the drop doesn't really go to zero) so I wouldn't expect this to cause an issue with a running projector, but maybe it was right on the threshold. Hard to say. Typically random issues like that are either due to a memory fault (e.g. frame buffer) or a failing connector (e.g. cables between circuit boards that fatigue due to heat changes from cold to hot and back to cold again).
post #1317 of 1794
After two days of additional use and about 5 hours of time, I have not been able to replicate the problem. The only variable I see different is the storm is no longer rolling through. I cannot explain it but I do know that I will be looking for future issues in the event something is wrong with my projector. I did think a bit about the HDMI cable being the problem. I disconnected it and reconnected it at all contact points so that may have been part of the issue. It could be the massive subwoofer vibrations of the room worked it loose. A bit of a stretch but I have no other idea what the problem could be.
post #1318 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

150" wide Seymour AV 1. 0 gain

Have to run high lamp full open iris.

Quote:
Originally Posted by holmern View Post

148" Draper Clarion Matt White 1.0 Gain. Used with an anamorphic lens. Can run with lamp in low mode with open iris. 3D leaves a lot to be desired because of lack of brightness.

Thanks guys...I am full light control and all dark colors so that may help, but I may need some masking. Seymour 1.0 between 180" and 216". I really will end up with the DD HD5, but the time until then would leave me imageless...not sure if I should do it or not, but thanks for the info!

Anyone running anything even bigger?
post #1319 of 1794
I think that information (screen gain) would be more useful if people mentioned what their throw distance was. That's probably at least as big a variable as screen gain in terms of perceived brightness.

My theater planning consists of a JVC 4810 projected on a 120" woven AT 1.0 gain screen (EV 4k) with a throw distance of 17.5' in a completely light controlled room. I hope to be able to use the projector on low power with some iris opening in reserve. No 3D for me, either.
post #1320 of 1794
Thread Starter 
Chopshop, get a Sony VPL-VW1000.
Edited by SOWK - 7/29/13 at 1:50pm
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