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Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 14

post #391 of 1794
Mark, thanks alot. I will search for the threads. I do have a drill and bit.
post #392 of 1794
Just took delivery of my RS4810 and mounts biggrin.gif Can't even take it out of the box, I'm on lunch break. When I come home I'll take open it up. Unfortunately, I'm only finishing the sheet rock stage of my home theater room frown.gif
post #393 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Yes, the Mini3D is superior to the Duo IMHO. It can give you the full 125 point CMS that the Duo can't. Has no ring scaling and excellent deinterlacing. Although it only has 2 physical inputs you can set up 4 'virtual' inputs which can be mapped to either of the two physical inputs so you can optimise your calibration for each of 4 sources even if they come from the same HDMI input cable (ie your amp does the switching further up the line). I do this with my Mini3D (only 3 devices though) and I also split the output so that I can use the different CMS memories (8 in total) to calibrate 2 different TVs and my projector.
I find the support excellent from Luamgen too, with it's own forum where you can post questions, email them config files for them to test out any issues. They once posted an updated firmware to resolve an issue I reported the same evening.eek.gif

You got me all excited about this reading about how you were sipping tea and letting the auto cal do its job. Not to mention all of Marks comments over the months about what a great device this is and 5mark has been encouraging me to get a VP and into calibration for a LONG time now as well (and I was chatting with this topic with Zombie about a year ago as well). I have been reading about the mini all morning and I am almost positive I am going to get one with the meter/software as well. The NLS was the push me over the edge as I was not aware the mini could do this and I would love to have this option for my 2.35 screen for games and maybe even some movies. I am still trying to figure out if the NLS can be applied to 3d as well and if it can, I am ordering this package today!
post #394 of 1794
Sorry for encouraging you to spend Toe. biggrin.gif I don't know much about NLS as it's something I don't use myself as I have a natural aversion to stretching geometry (though I have watched a 16:9 film at 2.35:1 by accident once redface.gif ).

I just want to say that I don't sit sipping tea while the autocal runs (as I hate the stuff...I drink coffee instead biggrin.gif).
post #395 of 1794
Sorry to go completely off topic here.

I am trying to envision how I would use a Mini3D in my setup. I have an Anthem A/V processor which has a high quality video processor. My Anthem has not been upgraded for 3D. My main sources are BD and HD Sat. I also still have a sizeable collection of HD DVDs and have been known to toss a game or two into the PS3. Make that 4 video sources all with HDMI, and all set up to output 1080P video, the exception being the Sat which outputs 720P. I am thinking that I would plug all sources into the Anthem, have the Anthem send an unprocessed video signal (I will have to check and make sure that the Anthem can do this) to the Mini3D. The Mini3D would then perform all video processing duties. For 3D BD, I would hook up the BD player directly to the second input of the Mini3D and send the audio to the Anthem. Does this make sense?

With the DVDO Duo, I would hook up all video sources directly to the Duo and send audio to the Anthem for processing. For 3D BD, I would hook up the BD player directly to the projector (I would have to manually calibrate the projector using its internal controls). Either way, the expensive video processor in the Anthem would go unused. I am uncertain whether or not the DVDO Duo is a better video processor than the Anthem, but it seems that the Mini3D probably is.
post #396 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Sorry for encouraging you to spend Toe. biggrin.gif I don't know much about NLS as it's something I don't use myself as I have a natural aversion to stretching geometry (though I have watched a 16:9 film at 2.35:1 by accident once redface.gif ).
I just want to say that I don't sit sipping tea while the autocal runs (as I hate the stuff...I drink coffee instead biggrin.gif).

Coffee......sorry! redface.gif I should have read up on the mini before now. I am impressed with all it can do! Just need to figure out if I should go calman or chromapure.......
post #397 of 1794
No worries Toe. biggrin.gif Probably best to discuss the Mini3D and Chromapure in the other sections though for fear of dragging this owners thread further off topic. redface.gif
post #398 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Coffee......sorry! redface.gif I should have read up on the mini before now. I am impressed with all it can do! Just need to figure out if I should go calman or chromapure.......

Coffee... mmm... just finished mine...

I am an extremely happy CalMAN user, but I understand ChromaPure is a good product too. I can't really compare the two. I just wanted to chime in and say I don't think you'd be disappointed with CalMAN. It achieves excellent (to my and my wife's eyes) results with their C6 colorometer. There was a learning curve, though, that mostly had to do with learning not to adjust the color bias above 0 on JVC projectors. That resulted in an unwatchable calibration!
post #399 of 1794
@Scott I'm working out a similar situation with the mini. I have an Oppo BDP-103 which has two HDMI inputs and two HDMI outputs, so a total of 3 sources into 2 displays. I plan to run the XBox and the Apple TV into the Oppo and take one of its outputs to my receiver (for audio) and the other to the projector. If I add a fourth source, the solution is probably a $40 4X2 HDMI switch with all 4 sources in and the same two outs. I haven't tested this yet but it's an idea. Programming this all in to a universal remote control would take some time.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=6416&seq=1&format=2
post #400 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post

I am thinking that I would plug all sources into the Anthem, have the Anthem send an unprocessed video signal (I will have to check and make sure that the Anthem can do this) to the Mini3D. The Mini3D would then perform all video processing duties. For 3D BD, I would hook up the BD player directly to the second input of the Mini3D and send the audio to the Anthem. Does this make sense?
You may want to use a simple $20 HDMI switcher so that the control is easier. Otherwise you have to sometimes switch just the Anthem, other times just the Radiance, and thirdly sometimes both. That would be confusing. Monoprice has some good options (as the previous poster mentioned).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post

Either way, the expensive video processor in the Anthem would go unused. I am uncertain whether or not the DVDO Duo is a better video processor than the Anthem, but it seems that the Mini3D probably is.
The Radiance is the best of the bunch by a long shot. Some things like advanced real time (125 pt / cube) calibration can't even be done with the others. They don't have the horsepower. I'm a big fan of Anthem/Paradigm but I wish they'd leave all video processing out of their preamps. For people that care about video processing, it's a complete waste of money since you end up not using any of it. (my 2 cents).

Kal
post #401 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post

Sorry to go completely off topic here.
I am trying to envision how I would use a Mini3D in my setup. I have an Anthem A/V processor which has a high quality video processor. My Anthem has not been upgraded for 3D. My main sources are BD and HD Sat. I also still have a sizeable collection of HD DVDs and have been known to toss a game or two into the PS3. Make that 4 video sources all with HDMI, and all set up to output 1080P video, the exception being the Sat which outputs 720P. I am thinking that I would plug all sources into the Anthem, have the Anthem send an unprocessed video signal (I will have to check and make sure that the Anthem can do this) to the Mini3D. The Mini3D would then perform all video processing duties. For 3D BD, I would hook up the BD player directly to the second input of the Mini3D and send the audio to the Anthem. Does this make sense?
With the DVDO Duo, I would hook up all video sources directly to the Duo and send audio to the Anthem for processing. For 3D BD, I would hook up the BD player directly to the projector (I would have to manually calibrate the projector using its internal controls). Either way, the expensive video processor in the Anthem would go unused. I am uncertain whether or not the DVDO Duo is a better video processor than the Anthem, but it seems that the Mini3D probably is.

Do you have 2 Blu-ray players and that is why you want to hook 3D Blu-ray to the mini directly? If not, just send everything to the Anthem via HDMI and use ports 1-4 on the Anthem with the video set to Bypass in the Anthem (pure passthru). Then run HDMI 1 out of the Anthem into the Lumagen. You shouldn't need to do anything else. If you want a seperate calibration for the 3D playback the Lumagen can do this. You can have a seperate calibration for the same source if the Lumagen detects a 3D signal. Basically a memory based on input type even if from the same source.
post #402 of 1794
Thanks Mike @ AVS for the great service & price! biggrin.gif Now I must resist to hang it or the theater will never be done.... eek.gif

post #403 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark1 View Post

Thanks Mike @ AVS for the great service & price! biggrin.gif Now I must resist to hang it or the theater will never be done.... eek.gif

No, no... you misunderstand... if you hang it, it is done.
post #404 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post


The Radiance is the best of the bunch by a long shot. Some things like advanced real time (125 pt / cube) calibration can't even be done with the others. They don't have the horsepower. I'm a big fan of Anthem/Paradigm but I wish they'd leave all video processing out of their preamps. For people that care about video processing, it's a complete waste of money since you end up not using any of it. (my 2 cents).
Kal
+1000 smile.gif
post #405 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

I measure about 980 lumens unclaibrated.
Throw was close throw.

How did this compare to the Sony HW50 when you had it? Thanks
post #406 of 1794
Mine is here and staring at me asking why I have not hung it yet. the truth is my rs45/x30 is still sitting in its place smile.gif. I will be trying to get the two up side-by side tonight before i box up the x30.
In the meantime, for those that do have this bad boy, have we settled on the best starting settings to run a calibration from? last i saw cinema mode was the closest, although inside the triangle partially.
What about eshift mode? last i saw the best was film mode and turning all settings down from default. has anyone settled on good starting numbers for these?

I want to run a quick 11pt/6 color auto calibration before making any comparisons. should i leave eshift off when doing that? how about the darbee? do you guys calibrate with or without those things on? (i doubt it will make a big difference since we are looking at solid windows/patterns, but hey, you never know)

going to be a long day at work tomorrow smile.gif
post #407 of 1794
Rukus, I don't know how much the RS4810/X55 differs from my X35 but I found that Standard colour space, 6500K colour temp was a little too low on mine (7000K closer) though I went with a custom colour temp and trimed up the 100% whitebalance only and left the RGB offsets at zero. I put a custom gamma with it set to 2.3 as a start. I then ran an autocal for the full 125 point rec709 2.22 gamma and it only took about 30 minutes. I only had about 12 hours on the lamp, but at least it's a start and I can rerun autocal anytime I like. FWIW I turned my Darbee to off (but still in line) but I'm not that sure it makes any difference to test patterns as the area is too big for the Darbee to effect.
post #408 of 1794
Sigh,
I would have been watching the hurricane sandy concert on my new 4810 but my wife figured that it was more important to go shopping for xmas today so all I have is this UPS ticket saying they will be back tomorrow.
post #409 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Rukus, I don't know how much the RS4810/X55 differs from my X35 but I found that Standard colour space, 6500K colour temp was a little too low on mine (7000K closer) though I went with a custom colour temp and trimed up the 100% whitebalance only and left the RGB offsets at zero. I put a custom gamma with it set to 2.3 as a start. I then ran an autocal for the full 125 point rec709 2.22 gamma and it only took about 30 minutes. I only had about 12 hours on the lamp, but at least it's a start and I can rerun autocal anytime I like. FWIW I turned my Darbee to off (but still in line) but I'm not that sure it makes any difference to test patterns as the area is too big for the Darbee to effect.

Thanks. I just ran some prelim gamut measurements and sad to say but it looks like mine cant find a wide enough gamut profile to start. it does look like Standard is close though, with cyan being the only one really inside the triangle. blue is a sliver inside. So i think i will run a primary/secondary calibration to start using cinema/standard/6500k and see what it looks like from there. would attach the reports but the laptop i use for chromapure is not connected to the net. maybe this weekend if no one else has posted theirs by then.

I still need to get used to this 1/16th zone adjustment for setting convergence. my convergence was pretty good out of the box but there are some corrections i want to make. this PJ has slightly less streaking on it than my x30 when putting light text up against a dark background. not sure if anyone has looked for this on their 4810s yet. not quite noticeable from seating distance but still a bit annoying. anyone else look for these yet? Kelvin, does your x35 have these?

some initial impressions after setting up the x55 beside an x30 with 200 hours on the lamp and flipping back and forth between hiding the image on each:
eshift2 definitely makes a difference vs the x30, though at my seating distance (1.5ish when zoomed to 2.35:1) it is pushing it in terms of being able to tell, at least in my set up. not sure the extra $ is worth it if you sit further than that as even i am having a little bit of a hard time truly justifying it at my distance (but maybe i have bad eyesight smile.gif). i also have not played too much with the 3 MPC functions, but just set them all at 35 for now since i recall reading the default 50 numbers were too high. still looking for other people's thoughts on where to set these.

contrast - probably the fact that i have a new bulb in the x55 vs 200 hours on my x30 but the blacks do look better. now i have a bit of a tradeoff that is tough to measure but i have the x30 at a further throw but iris at -5 and the x55 at minimum throw distance and iris at -15. this is pre-calibration though (though brightness/contrast were set). could also be the effects of eshift/MPC i suppose.

motion: seems a bit better subjectively but i think the x30 already looked pretty good for a jvc. have not tried CMD as i dont think they need it, even for sports in my opinion. dont let this be your primary reason to upgrade.

let me know if you guys are looking for other type of feedback.

once calibration is done i will pop in TDK or TDKR for some comparison viewing.

rukus
Edited by rukus29 - 12/12/12 at 6:11pm
post #410 of 1794
Looking good so far with the new lamp in this year's JVCs. I measured center lux from projector on 8.5' wide 16x9 screen area at 180 on low when new last week. Actually that's higher than my first couple of lamps from the last version on high when new. Since then I have been giving the lamp marathon break in sessions around 10-12 hours a day continuously by cycling in slide show mode around 80 16x9 1080P photographs on my PS3, to prepare for its first calibration this Friday. I want to have around 100 hours on it. I have a good meter and the readings over the whole 1st 90 hours I'm at now (1 lamp strike per day for like a week) has been kind of hovering still right at 180 lux. Sometimes it drops no lower than 176 and sometimes I've gotten 186 lux readings over 60 hours in. So I don't know if the very few lamp strikes has contributed to it keeping virtually all of its brightness so far or indeed it's just a much better lamp than the past 2 years. On high lamp for comparison, and which I have also run a couple of 2-3 hour stints with a couple times for good measure, the reading was 230 lux initially and has stayed above 220 so far.
post #411 of 1794
That's good to hear regarding the lamp Ron, I've only got about 20 hours on my X35 but it hasn't changed in that time from 92 Lux (Natural mode Lumagen bypassed) in fact it did go up to 96-7 Lux at the end of the first use of 12 hours. I can only see a very slight streaking effect on text when I'm close up to the screen (like the text used on the AVS HD709 disc basic patterns for example). I have my X35 above level with the top of my screen, so I have a bit of lens shift in use, so not sure if this helps or not. Otherwise the only issue I have with text is because of my Darbee which is a known issue with that (it kind of 'joins' certain bits of text sometimes depending on the size).
post #412 of 1794
The Eagle has landed! And this sucker is big .. no its huge....

Asked UPS to hold it for pick up last night and target was acquired by 09 hundred hours this morning. So far have put in like 5+ hours on it. Unfortunately my screen is not here yet so was projecting it on a light blue wall at first and then the wife suggested we use a white bed sheet and that worked out pretty well. At least it hid the mounting holes and electrical sockets from my old TV tongue.gif

So this is my first projector ever. Initial impression are that I like it and its a keeper. My biggest concern was if it would be a step down in image quality from my SAMSUNG 55" LED. It definitely is a step up. I am projecting a 120" image and the WOW factor was all over the place. The wife likes it so it's all good from here... Mission Accomplished biggrin.gif

eshift is awesome, I'm glad I went with it. Once you turn it on its like a layer was removed from the picture and it got more clearer and sharper with extra details.

Was watching the Avengers on it tonight and decided to take a pic. This is just for fun, remember its a pic of an image being projected on a bed sheet. Can't wait for my screen to come in.

The ISO on the camera was set to 100 to make sure no noise was introduced from the camera. I was playing around with the settings all day so I can't remember now if this pic was taken with eshift on or off - sorry

post #413 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

That's good to hear regarding the lamp Ron, I've only got about 20 hours on my X35 but it hasn't changed in that time from 92 Lux (Natural mode Lumagen bypassed) in fact it did go up to 96-7 Lux at the end of the first use of 12 hours. I can only see a very slight streaking effect on text when I'm close up to the screen (like the text used on the AVS HD709 disc basic patterns for example). I have my X35 above level with the top of my screen, so I have a bit of lens shift in use, so not sure if this helps or not. Otherwise the only issue I have with text is because of my Darbee which is a known issue with that (it kind of 'joins' certain bits of text sometimes depending on the size).

thanks for confirming on the streaking. i bet it is lens shift related...

i have my autocal running now so that i can compare x30 to x55 (though there will be lamp age effects i cant even out). for some reason when i recalibrated my x30 last night in preparation and threw in the dark knight, the scene where bruce throws a party for harvey that joker crashes looked much grainier than i remember, so i will be seeing if the same thing happens with the x55 as perhaps it is something going wrong with the autocal. will also route around the radiance mini to double check it is not mini-related.
post #414 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcard011 View Post

The Eagle has landed! And this sucker is big .. no its huge....
Asked UPS to hold it for pick up last night and target was acquired by 09 hundred hours this morning. So far have put in like 5+ hours on it. Unfortunately my screen is not here yet so was projecting it on a light blue wall at first and then the wife suggested we use a white bed sheet and that worked out pretty well. At least it hid the mounting holes and electrical sockets from my old TV tongue.gif
So this is my first projector ever. Initial impression are that I like it and its a keeper. My biggest concern was if it would be a step down in image quality from my SAMSUNG 55" LED. It definitely is a step up. I am projecting a 120" image and the WOW factor was all over the place. The wife likes it so it's all good from here... Mission Accomplished biggrin.gif
eshift is awesome, I'm glad I went with it. Once you turn it on its like a layer was removed from the picture and it got more clearer and sharper with extra details.
Was watching the Avengers on it tonight and decided to take a pic. This is just for fun, remember its a pic of an image being projected on a bed sheet. Can't wait for my screen to come in.
The ISO on the camera was set to 100 to make sure no noise was introduced from the camera. I was playing around with the settings all day so I can't remember now if this pic was taken with eshift on or off - sorry

What's the gain on your bed sheet? Do you notice any hot spotting or severe off axis drop off of light or sheet surface texture on a bright scene? biggrin.gifwink.gif
post #415 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

That's good to hear regarding the lamp Ron, I've only got about 20 hours on my X35 but it hasn't changed in that time from 92 Lux (Natural mode Lumagen bypassed) in fact it did go up to 96-7 Lux at the end of the first use of 12 hours. I can only see a very slight streaking effect on text when I'm close up to the screen (like the text used on the AVS HD709 disc basic patterns for example). I have my X35 above level with the top of my screen, so I have a bit of lens shift in use, so not sure if this helps or not. Otherwise the only issue I have with text is because of my Darbee which is a known issue with that (it kind of 'joins' certain bits of text sometimes depending on the size).

Yes so far it does seem like "Super Lamp". Has been running all day today and now up to 94 hours and just went outside and checked it for the 3rd time today with the meter. It is once again "over" the original reading of 180 lux in center in low lamp for 8.5' wide 16x9 AR screen area. It was at 182 this time, and as mentioned as high as 186 after 60+ hours. Aren't the 1st 100 hours supposed to drop the most in lumens? But maybe the only 10-12 lamp strikes for those 94 hours is keeping it fresh?
post #416 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonF View Post

What's the gain on your bed sheet? Do you notice any hot spotting or severe off axis drop off of light or sheet surface texture on a bright scene? biggrin.gifwink.gif

The challenge was to have a wrinkle free surface biggrin.gif

One thing has me puzzled, I don't see any of the black bars on the top/bottom of the screen when watching non 16:9 movies. For example was watching LOTR and didn't see them. My aspect ratio is set to 16:9 in the settings.
post #417 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcard011 View Post

The challenge was to have a wrinkle free surface biggrin.gif
One thing has me puzzled, I don't see any of the black bars on the top/bottom of the screen when watching non 16:9 movies. For example was watching LOTR and didn't see them. My aspect ratio is set to 16:9 in the settings.

I'm not trying to be a smart @$$, but why would you expect to see them? They should have an almost complete lack of light. On your sheet, you maybe could see them in a light controlled room as faint gray, but if any lights are on in the room you aren't going to see them. This is an "ultra high" contrast projector, after all.
post #418 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post

I'm not trying to be a smart @$$, but why would you expect to see them? They should have an almost complete lack of light. On your sheet, you maybe could see them in a light controlled room as faint gray, but if any lights are on in the room you aren't going to see them. This is an "ultra high" contrast projector, after all.

Equally I'm not trying to be a smart *** but I'm really surprised that he can't see them: I have an X35 (same contrast) set to minimum zoom, minimum iris so I'm getting the full contrast it can provide and the black bars are visible to me. I've seen the more expensive JVCs such as the X70 which has higher contrast still and the black bars are visible (the room was a pitch black batcave too in the case of the X70). Sure it's better than the LCD projectors I used 5 years ago, but by no means are the black bars invisible. They are great projectors, but lets not get too carried away. smile.gif
post #419 of 1794
I could see the black bars even with Stewart ST130 or Firehawk screen.
post #420 of 1794
Quote:
Originally Posted by freebits View Post

I could see the black bars even with Stewart ST130 or Firehawk screen.

The 130 has a gain of 1.3, the firehawk has a gain of 1.24 or something very close to that. Any positive gain screen would make black that contained some white as are digital projectors so project would make said black bars easier to see. If one went to a negative gain screen, at some point the screen would suck up the white hiding in them black bars and you would not see the bars.


As to the owner not seeing the bars, a simple question does the.portion of the screen, top and bottom, that should have the bars look like the screen is unlit. Or are you saying the whole screen is lit with image as if the picture was zoomed, electronicallt stretched etc.
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