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Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 21

post #601 of 1219
12/24/12 at 4:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by edfowler View Post

I may have taken this before I did the fine convergence, can't remember. I know the picture really looked tons better after I did the pixel adj.
I will have to take a look later this afternoon. I will try to download the avs disc too.
how do you check for good color uniformity? I know how to look for good greyscale but never do anything with the color. That is what the calibrator is for I think:)


There is no such thing as bright corners on JVC's. It's all color uniformity in LCOS panels. Yes, white piece of paper in front of the lens will show you how bad is it.

Now, this was an issue with RS1 all the way up, part of technology. SXRD is the same. You have to got to DLP to get perfect color uniformity.

Check 30 IRE and 50 IRE grey patterns and look at them, if you don't have color blotches that you can see then I would not worry too much about it.

I agree that switching units you might pick up other problems. RS4810 was supposed to have final quality check extra so what you have is probably as good as it gets.

If your convergence on red and green is spot on I would keep it. My 2 cents.
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post #602 of 1219
12/24/12 at 6:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by johndsparks View Post

A little Noob perspective:
Just set up my 4810 replacing a Panny AE900 (yes I know OLD).
For all the noobs out there reading these forums the regular posters are the masters of video and are VERY particular about their picture and settings.
I took the projector out of the box set it on a shelf (temp location) at the very back of the room, which is slightly past the max distance for throw, am projecting onto a 140" wide 2.35 to 1 screen from Seymour that i built with 1.3 gain material, with a black wall and ceiling and HOLY CRAP, this thing is AWESOME.
So for the regular Joe , no worries this thing is fantastic. I was worried about the brightness, no problems at all, surveyed the family they thought the picture was "incredible". Saw some ghosting in Monsters vs Aliens but was minimal and was so busy enjoying the show did not bother me.
Just a reminder that it is about enjoying what is on. My advise to those like me is runout and buy this thing now!
Thanks Mike at AVS for the help and for putting up with my endless questions and concerns, many generated from to much forum reading.
John

You are welcome John. Enjoy your projector and have a Merry Christmas. smile.gif
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post #603 of 1219
12/24/12 at 8:19am
Hi guys,

Just wanted to ask...which Hdmi option are you guys using?...Standard, Enhanced or Super White. I tried leaving mine on standard but when I use the spears and munsil disk to set black levels...some of the bars are completely missing. Even though I raised the brightness all the way up. Once i changed it to enhanced it was fine. But I still cant see bars from 17- 20 onwards they flash. I have a Oppo BDP 83 and had that set to 4:2:2... as the spears and munsil disk recommended that setting.....but some black bars dont even show up at all.
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post #604 of 1219
12/24/12 at 9:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerfan33

Funny you say this. When I watch my 46 for an extended period of time (3-4 hrs) I've closed my aperture from 5 to 8 then finally to 12.
Not that I'm complaing:)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

Oh no! I hope you get chance to enjoy it soon and try out those settings. smile.gif
I'm a bit paranoid about the lamp after all the dimming issues with the X30, so I keep checking it and sometimes I do it too soon after switch on (say 30-40 minutes) and it has dropped a little bit from my usual 101 Lux (calibrated), maybe down to low 90s. In fact this 10% drop (or less) wouldn't be detected by the eye but I start to think that it must be dimming...then when I check later at the end of the viewing session it's back to 101 or even higher. Thing is I can't close my iris any further as I'm already at -15 for non lens 1.85:1 content, then about -8 or -9 for lens use on 2.35:1 (to get the same Lux reading of 101 Lux). Can't complain though as 15fL looks nice and punchy compared to the under 10fL I was watching last time my HD350 was on as the lamp is dimming a bit more on that projector. The blacks are better too, so a win-win situation. smile.gif

Glad to see it's not just me experiencing the fluctuations and seemingly so far next to no drop in lumens. My readings btw are always with the iris wide open. On my 8.5' wide 16x9 old school HP..... I just find that fun. biggrin.gif Much of what I do with the projector I want high foot lamberts, but usually that is between -9 and -5 on the iris on low. We calibrated at -9 and were getting around 30fl. I'm probably about 2/3 of the way back to longest throw.
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post #605 of 1219
12/24/12 at 9:58am
Baddhamus,I was having the same problem until I switched it to enhanced.
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post #606 of 1219
12/24/12 at 10:12am
I'm using Superwhite on my X35 and can see down to 16 flashing if I raise the brightness to +1, just about see 17 flashing at 0. I can then see up to 254 flashing, but I chose to raise my main contrast to +5 to clip above 245 which seems a good compromise between clipping at 235 for extra brightness or seeing up to 254 and having slightly less brightness. I'm using an Oppo 93 in 4:2:2 via a Lumagen Mini3D but with it's controls set to 0.
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post #607 of 1219
12/24/12 at 10:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by buddhamus View Post

Hi guys,
Just wanted to ask...which Hdmi option are you guys using?...Standard, Enhanced or Super White. I tried leaving mine on standard but when I use the spears and munsil disk to set black levels...some of the bars are completely missing. Even though I raised the brightness all the way up. Once i changed it to enhanced it was fine. But I still cant see bars from 17- 20 onwards they flash. I have a Oppo BDP 83 and had that set to 4:2:2... as the spears and munsil disk recommended that setting.....but some black bars dont even show up at all.
You will not be able to see blacker than black (16 and below) using the Standard mode. A Brightness setting of 0 is what you want to use when you select HDMI Standard. If you raise brightness at all the black floor rises and that's not desirable. It is not unusual to have some black crush with a brightness setting of 0...use the dark level control to help this or use a custom gamma curve to help mitigate black crush. Keep in mind that any stray room light will make it difficult or impossible to see those lower stimulus levels (17,18,19, etc).

If you use HDMI Enhanced in both the Oppo and JVC you'll be able to see blacker than black but when the brightness control is properly set (-6 in this case) it should look very similar to HDMI Standard. In this mode a brightness setting of -5 also raises the black floor (at least on all the JVC's I've owned).
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post #608 of 1219
12/24/12 at 1:18pm
Will I be ok with elite screen for my 4810 ? I have 3 options for 120"

1.8 gain PowerGain Sable Fixed Frame
CineWhite 1.1 gain Sable Fixed Frame
1.1 gain ezFrame
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post #609 of 1219
12/24/12 at 2:45pm
I would chose the CineWhite. Why the Elite?
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post #610 of 1219
12/24/12 at 2:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post

I would chose the CineWhite. Why the Elite?

Cause I do not know any better, really. Question is why not. What are the choices for 120" with cost as close to 500 as possible.
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post #611 of 1219
12/24/12 at 5:17pm
A painted on the wall screen or a bed sheet. There are other cheap screens out there but they are junk. for $500, the Elites are as good as any other option .Buy some Alka Seltzer in case you ever see how much better your projector would be with a good screen.
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post #612 of 1219
12/24/12 at 5:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

A painted on the wall screen or a bed sheet. There are other cheap screens out there but they are junk. for $500, the Elites are as good as any other option .Buy some Alka Seltzer in case you ever see how much better your projector would be with a good screen.
Point well made, wouldn't want to reach out for alka seltzer, what are some good options? I have not auditioned any here locally, can you please recommend some?
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post #613 of 1219
12/24/12 at 6:44pm
Mark will look up his nose at it as it's not his particular cup of tea, but in that price range of yours or not much more, for a roll down screen a great number of members here love their Da Light Hi Power screens. If you can work it with your projector shooting pretty close over the top of your head and typically sit within the left and right edges of the screen. The screen for the most part disappears and you have so much headroom to work with as lamps age and lose their lumens. Used to be 2.8 gain from that kind of seating position but now the material is rated at 2.4. However that yields better off axis viewing.

Edit: Sorry I see you mentioned fixed frame. Those cost more but a number of people have been successful buying the large roll down models and then cutting the material off and using it. Probably a lot of info and support for that kind of exercise in the Screen forum.
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post #614 of 1219
12/24/12 at 6:45pm
I assume you are talking a 1.78 aspect ratio screen with a 120' diag? What will be your throw distance and what is your room like re light control and wall, ceiling, and floor colors?
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post #615 of 1219
12/24/12 at 8:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

I assume you are talking a 1.78 aspect ratio screen with a 120' diag? What will be your throw distance and what is your room like re light control and wall, ceiling, and floor colors?

Throw distance - 14'
Totally dark room
Painting dark flat paint on ceiling and walls
Chocolate carpet on the floor
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post #616 of 1219
12/24/12 at 8:31pm
Quite honestly, it’s better to shoot the JVC 4810 on the bare wall and save some money for a good screen. Maybe even save more for a great screen. Your going to spend your money and settle for the lesser screen. Worse yet, your going to want a better screen and end up wasting the $500.00 when you get a better screen. I get that your budget is $500.00 but man, I own this projector and a Black Diamond screen, there is no substitute for a great combonation. It’s like pairing a high end Marantz receiver with Walmart speakers. There are a few other good options, Draper(Onyx) and Dalite(Hi-power) make good screens. Ive used both. Even Screen Innovations has screens for not too much more. All three are heads and shoulders above the Elite. Do yourself a favor and get the better screen. You won’t regret it, better yet, the JVC 4810 deserves it.

Merry Christmas
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post #617 of 1219
12/24/12 at 8:38pm
One more question. how important is 3D to you. If not very important I would go with a low gain screen. Assuning a scren 104 inches wide, your throw ratio would be about 1.63 and therefore to avoid hot spotting with an angular reflectiv creen, which all are except the Da-lite HP, your gain should not exceed 1.6. So stay away from the 1.8 gain no matter what brand.

How much are you willing to spend?
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post #618 of 1219
12/24/12 at 9:41pm
Ok I get it. I don't care much about 3d. So the question is not about the budget anymore but get the best pairing screen, so will spend that. I am willing to spend no more than 1000 now , or wait to get the best pairing screw .
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post #619 of 1219
12/24/12 at 9:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchandwani View Post

Ok I get it. I don't care much about 3d. So the question is not about the budget anymore but get the best pairing screen, so will spend that. I am willing to spend no more than 1000 now , or wait to get the best pairing screw .

RonF's suggestion of the HP screen a few posts back (if you can get your viewing geometry to cooperate) is a terrific option. Cheap and a stellar image, especially for the money.
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post #620 of 1219
12/24/12 at 10:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

You will not be able to see blacker than black (16 and below) using the Standard mode. A Brightness setting of 0 is what you want to use when you select HDMI Standard. If you raise brightness at all the black floor rises and that's not desirable. It is not unusual to have some black crush with a brightness setting of 0...use the dark level control to help this or use a custom gamma curve to help mitigate black crush. Keep in mind that any stray room light will make it difficult or impossible to see those lower stimulus levels (17,18,19, etc).
If you use HDMI Enhanced in both the Oppo and JVC you'll be able to see blacker than black but when the brightness control is properly set (-6 in this case) it should look very similar to HDMI Standard. In this mode a brightness setting of -5 also raises the black floor (at least on all the JVC's I've owned).

Cheers mate. I have left the jvc on enhanced but the oppo bdp83 has no enhanced option...could it be named something else?...its currently set to 4:2:2.
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post #621 of 1219
12/25/12 at 4:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dchandwani View Post

Ok I get it. I don't care much about 3d. So the question is not about the budget anymore but get the best pairing screen, so will spend that. I am willing to spend no more than 1000 now , or wait to get the best pairing screw .

If you want to go the HP route, you can get a HP DaLite Fixed frame for way less than $1000. I went the same route got a DaLite PermWall fixed frame 120" and am very pleased with the results. My throw distance is about 22 feet and the JVC is sitting on a shelf about 1.5 feet above eye level. The bat cave has undergone a major transformation and is dark painted now except for the ceiling. However the lock down has been lifted (wife has ok'd it) and I got the paint last nite. It will be done.... Resistance was futile!

Sent you a PM.

Here is what the screen looks like, with some screenshots.






Merry Christmas to all !
Edited by wildcard011 - 12/25/12 at 4:33am
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post #622 of 1219
12/25/12 at 4:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by buddhamus View Post

Cheers mate. I have left the jvc on enhanced but the oppo bdp83 has no enhanced option...could it be named something else?...its currently set to 4:2:2.

Would also like to know what the settings should be on the oppo. I have a bdp95 though.
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post #623 of 1219
12/25/12 at 6:01am
My first screen was the Dalite Permwall HP. It was a beautiful picture and a great screen for the money. Lasted me 10 years and 2 different projectors, one being my first JVC 40. The upgrade for me was a logical progression to the Black Diamond. I too had no windows or competing light sources and the new JVC 4810 has been everything i had hoped with the E-shift. I like where your heads at with the new $1000 budget. Wildcard011 is right, you can do Dalite HP for less than $1000. Your choices for screens have expanded greatly with that budget. Good luck.

Merry Christmas
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post #624 of 1219
12/25/12 at 6:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by buddhamus View Post

Cheers mate. I have left the jvc on enhanced but the oppo bdp83 has no enhanced option...could it be named something else?...its currently set to 4:2:2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcard011 View Post

Would also like to know what the settings should be on the oppo. I have a bdp95 though.

Oppo's RGB PC Level is called HDMI Enhanced on the JVC.

Oppo's RGB Video Level is called HDMI Standard on the JVC.
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post #625 of 1219
12/25/12 at 7:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

Oppo's RGB PC Level is called HDMI Enhanced on the JVC.
Oppo's RGB Video Level is called HDMI Standard on the JVC.

Thanks Geof. So is video level 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 ? I have my JVC set on HDMI standard, so I assume I want to set my Oppo player with the same setting, correct?
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post #626 of 1219
12/25/12 at 7:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Thanks Geof. So is video level 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 ? I have my JVC set on HDMI standard, so I assume I want to set my Oppo player with the same setting, correct?
I believe discs are encoded 4:2:0 and then the mpeg decoder makes 4:2:2. But black level should be identical with either 4:2:2 or 4:4:4.

The difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 is chroma sample rates....with 4:2:2 Luma (Y) is sampled twice as often as Chroma (CbCr) and with 4:4:4 they have the same sample rate.

And yes, generally you want source and destination HDMI settings to be identical (RGB Video = HDMI STandard or PC Video = HDMI Enhanced).

However, one can set the source to RGB Video and the JVC to Enhanced if you compensate for the mismatch by making adjustments to the Brightness and Contrast Settings in the JVC. For example, I have my Radiance MiniMe set to output RGB Video (16-235) and my JVC set for HDMI Enhanced (0-255) and this works because the JVC Brightness is set to -7 and Contrast to +15....so why'd I do this? Was it for the hell of it or because I can! rolleyes.gif No actually In this way I can see blacker than black and I can set contrast to allow greater than 235. It also works out that I have a teeny bit less black crush which was the main impetus behind said settings.
Edited by Geof - 12/25/12 at 9:53am
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post #627 of 1219
12/25/12 at 8:51am
Thanks Geof. smile.gif So it sounds like I should set my Oppo to 4:2:2 video since my JVC is set to HDMI standard, correct?
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post #628 of 1219
12/25/12 at 9:15am
Don't forget to set your Mini3D to output 4:2:2 as well.
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post #629 of 1219
12/25/12 at 9:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Thanks Geof. smile.gif So it sounds like I should set my Oppo to 4:2:2 video since my JVC is set to HDMI standard, correct?
I don't think the two are related. 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 are colorspaces that can be used with either HDMI setting. The HDMI setting is used to set the video range. The PC world uses 0-255 But the video world uses 16-235.

I think the general consensus is to use 4:2:2 with the JVC's and the Lumagen does it's processing in 4:2:2 so I would recommend 4:2:2.
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post #630 of 1219
12/25/12 at 11:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

I don't think the two are related. 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 are colorspaces that can be used with either HDMI setting. The HDMI setting is used to set the video range. The PC world uses 0-255 But the video world uses 16-235.
I think the general consensus is to use 4:2:2 with the JVC's and the Lumagen does it's processing in 4:2:2 so I would recommend 4:2:2.

Good deal! Thanks again.
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