Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 22

Thanks Mark. I will make sure of this as well.

Toe, have you did the auto cal yet? If so, how do it compare from not having it calibrated?

No, not yet. Just ordered a tripod yesterday and waiting on a longer serial cable as well. Thinking about picking up a cheap laptop also so I dont have to drag the desktop downstairs each time I want to calibrate which would get old quick. I will give my humble opinion after I do calibrate though.

Thanks Toe,

I am very interested in your opinion as well as I was thinking of buying the Chromapure with auto-cal and Display 3 but don't know if it will be enough of an improvement to justify the $779 price tag.

Thanks,
Mike

IMO, Gamma and Grayscale calibrations are essential for JVC's over time. My RS55 benefitted from gamma and grayscale calibrations every 50-100 hours. Gamut is much more stable and (at least in my case) and requires far less frequent calibration. I think many could slide on gamut calibration but if you want to maintain high PQ gamma and grayscale will need to be touched up regularly. You don't have to buy into the 125 pt calibration capability (at least initially) and you could "make do" [ ] with buying the necessary gear/ licensing for gamma and grayscale calibrations. I recommend the i1D3 colorimeter which is a decent unit that gives fast, reliable, and repeatable results and is supposedly built for the long haul (filters are sealed).
Edited by Geof - 12/25/12 at 4:08pm

You got it! Might be a week or two but I will give you the average Joe perspective.
Edited by Toe - 12/25/12 at 4:15pm

double post

Thank Geoff,

I have the Eye-One Display LT I bought to do the grayscale on my RS40 and it did improve pq but it is now 15-16 months old and from what I have read would need to be recalibrated to reuse thus almost making it useless so since I have a Lumagen Radiance XD to use the auto-cal feature with it almost seemed like most cost effective solution would be to buy the Chromapure/auto-cal/Display 3 bundle or do you just suggest buying a Display 3 colorimeter to keep on top of grayscale only as most cost effective solution?

Thanks,
Mike

I think eventually you'd want the 125 pt autocal capability since you already own a Radiance. I don't know the cost breakdown of buying CP/D3 bundle now and then adding 125 pt autocal later versus buying the whole enchilada now. I'll leave it to you to decide the cost benefit ratio of both options but in the end I suspect you'll notice gamma and grayscale calibrations more readily than you'd spot gamut calibration. At the very least keep your options open...

Yeah, that makes sense and I would definitely want the 125 pt autocal feature since it is available to me. I will wait to hear Toe's observations and now after looking around I have found the same bundle on sale for $709 till Jan. 15 so that helps a little.

Thanks for your advice,
Mike

Can someone please summarize the best suggested settings out of the box PRE-calibration? Natural, cinema, etc.. Gamma and such.

I know I've seen various suggestions spread around this thread and several others, but its been difficult to find them when looking back.

I'm most uncertain of what the best gamma setting should be on the RS4810 for someone who doesn't currently have the ability to calibrate on his own. I'm interested in learning how to do that, but baby steps first.

I can't answer, but gamma in general depends on the room. There's a whole range of possibilities. Is it a dedicated, light controlled room with dark colors and furniture? Or is it a mixed use room with window, light carpet/walls/ceiling/furniture? Those are kind of the two extremes.

The room will be light controlled. The color scheme is generally dark with "copper" color walls and furniture is dark green and brown, with brown rug. The ceiling is the weakest point with more of a tan color. Generally even when I have all the lights on in the room it still feels "dark" because of the darker color scheme.

Certainly not the most ideal setting, but probably better than the typical living room set up.

That being said, I do plan on exploring options of room treatment to further improve things. But I also would like to have an idea of a general starting point For gamma assuming reasonably controlled light. I only had a small amount of time to experiment with with the projector settings as I had a stuck on blue pixel center screen and will be returning it for an exchange. But in the short time I played with it and looked at the gamma options many of them seemed to be significantly different from each other. They cant all be close to the recommended standard. That being the case, there has to be one that is closer to the recommended standard.

I thought I read somewhere that normal or A were decent? I also thought I read a recommendation of using custom gamma 2.3 which "tracks close to 2.2". But I don't understand that option. Is that setting custom gamma using a meter (which I currently can't do) or is there an option to simply select a "2.3 gamma curve"?

Stinks being a novice.

And even better than that when coupled with a mini if you know where to look and it ain't where you are looking..

You ain't being much help, but I understand the policy.

I have a Lumagen Radiance XD so I don't need a mini. I just need the best deal on the Chromapure/auto-cal advance/Display3 bundle. Does AVS sell this bundle? Maybe I should contact Mike G. and ask, huh?

Thanks,
Mike

Or CalMAN... there's CalMAN too...

AV Science is not a dealer for Chromapure> give me a call and I will explain what you need to do to get a better deal than on that other site.

I agree. I did a little tweaking but I think it looks great. I have a light controlled room (still have to do treatments) with a 1.0 gain 2:35 Carada screen. Watched Casino Royale, parts of Lord of the Rings, Avengers, TDKR and it looks great. I want it to look good but I don't have the patience to allow myself to become neurotic about it.

Thanks Mark,

I will definitely do so if I decide to get that bundle. I gotta wait just a few more weeks and will decide then if I'm gonna get it. If I do I will give you a call and I certainly appreciate it.

Thanks again,
Mike

Here's my calibration results of RS4810.





The gamma was fairly straight. Easier than previous generation.
Grayscale was not bad.
Green was not moving in the CMS whatever I did..
The good thing was on/off contrast ratio was 22305 when aperture was -15.

I haven't applied 125p Autocal yet since I may exchanged it due to some other issues.

Yeah the CMS was mostly useless with Green for me as well. t looks like your unit has a bit less Green error and quite a bit less cyan under saturation than mine.

Which profile did you use? I found Standard and Natural close but Natural calibrated a bit better.

It was Film mode with film profile. Natural mode gave me some more dE.

Thanks. I'll check this out next time I have the cal gear out.

Freebit,

Did you use the dark low and bright low for the 30pt and 80pt for grayscale. also was this calibration with or without a processor?

I'm looking at the RS-48 and the RS-4810. I probably missed something but I can't seem to find a difference. Why would you buy one over the other? Why would JVC have two different models that are roughly the same?

I lowered dark white 1 notch but didn't touch bright side. You can lower them more not to crush black levels at 10/20 IREs.

It's done using Accupel signal generator. Not used my Lumagen mini 3D yet.

Basically they are same unit but 4810 has longer warranty than 48 and better QC is applied.

I'm about to buy a projector and keep on flipping back on forth between the RS 56 and the RS 48. I would like your opinion on the best way to go.


Theater is a shared den and theater. I will mostly be watching 2D. When I watch movies I turn out all of of the lights. There will be a little watching with the lights on but all of the lights are in the back of the room. The walls are painted eggshell dark brown (like a coffee bean).

I expect to have a throw about 14-15 ft. Screen size will have a width of 105". It's a SeymourAV 4K material .98 gain.

Will I benefit from the higher constrast?
Is the wire grid in the the 56 that much better then the 48?

Does the 56 have a better lense?

Should I just buy the 48 save the money and buy a Darbee?

Your throw distance will be near short throw and you will need the extra on off of the 56 if you want to run higher gammas.

The lenses are the same

You should buy a Darbee regardless of which one you choose.

I think you know all the answers to the questions you arte asking.

you room is good enough for the better one and at short throw you will appreciate the extra on off of the 56 and the ability to run higher gammas without crushing the blacks.

regarding what should I do, many people want to tell you what they did and of course all of them make the optimized choice, all others being wrong.

you know what to do already and I expect you can afford either without feeling anything more than a little guilt if you chose the more expensive option. Happy New Year.