Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones 
This topic is more complex than most new JVC owners may think. It first came up two years ago with the introduction of JVC's first generation of 3D projectors (e.g., RS40, RS50, X3, etc.). The JVC projectors put out polarized light with all 3 colors (red, blue, green) aligned horizontally while the JVC active 3D glasses include a polarizing element (as part of the liquid crystal lens) that is also aligned the same direction. However, just about all other brands of 3D TVs and projectors use active 3D glasses with their polarizing element oriented vertically. As a result if your projection screen does not retain the polarization of the projected light then compatible 3D glasses, such those from Xpand, will work OK, but if your screen does retain a significant amount of the polarization then tthe non-JVC glass will lose more light than the JVC glasses resulting in a dimmer image for the viewer. HERE is a link with a lot more details.

This topic is more complex than most new JVC owners may think. It first came up two years ago with the introduction of JVC's first generation of 3D projectors (e.g., RS40, RS50, X3, etc.). The JVC projectors put out polarized light with all 3 colors (red, blue, green) aligned horizontally while the JVC active 3D glasses include a polarizing element (as part of the liquid crystal lens) that is also aligned the same direction. However, just about all other brands of 3D TVs and projectors use active 3D glasses with their polarizing element oriented vertically. As a result if your projection screen does not retain the polarization of the projected light then compatible 3D glasses, such those from Xpand, will work OK, but if your screen does retain a significant amount of the polarization then tthe non-JVC glass will lose more light than the JVC glasses resulting in a dimmer image for the viewer. HERE is a link with a lot more details.
Thanks for the link and the info Ron. My screen is listed as a material that retains little or no polarization. If I understand everything correctly, then I should be able to use any of the Xpand and other aftermarket glasses with the 4810, since the orientation of the polarizing element won't matter with my particular screen.




















Now get it set up and clock some hours on it as the lamps can drift quite a bit in the first 100 hours, so you don't want a calibration done before the lamp has settled (unless the calibrator lives nearby and will pop back to retouch it).




, but I would say that for me I didn't feel that the ability not to see the pixels when close up to the screen was a major factor. Likewise I thought that the EShift sharpening effect was similar enough to Darbee to my eyes (something I only use in small amounts now anyway). However, in the UK it's double the price of the X35, so it's an easier decision if you already own a Lumagen (and a Darbee).
