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Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 26

post #751 of 1221
1/13/13 at 9:51am
Custom slot built off of the 'Standard' colour profile. I'm not sure what mode, film- natural etc, it was profiled after.
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post #752 of 1221
1/13/13 at 9:51am
Standard colour space is close to rec 709 colour gamut, not 6500K at least on my X35 and from what some others have reported. I found that 6500K colour temp was actually a little too warm on my X35, so 7000K was actually closer. However, I did a calibration soon after anyway (which I'm sure will have drfited as I'm at nearly 100 hours now). Of course it all depends on the screen, room and tolerances in the projector.
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post #753 of 1221
1/13/13 at 9:53am
7000K is what my calibrator used as well.
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post #754 of 1221
1/13/13 at 10:26am
Ah yes, I meant to say standard color profile for close to rec 709 and 6500k color temp preset.

I don't currently have any instruments to measure things myself, so I'll just take a look at how "7000" looks compared to the "6500" preset.

But still curious about what those "picture mode" options are supposed to affect.

On the 4810, which custom gamma is likely to actually run closer to a real 2.2? Would it be the 2.2 or 2.3 custom setting? I've heard reports of both, so I'm guessing it probably varries unit to unit?
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post #755 of 1221
1/13/13 at 10:30am
The calibrator who did mine said that 2.3 was actually closer to 2.2. After his custom tweaks, the final measurements on gamma were 2.2. He used a very expensive highly sensitive meter ($30+ grand)

He also said I could post his graphs when he emails them to me.
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post #756 of 1221
1/13/13 at 10:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabalocker View Post

Mine at 14fl on a 153" screen looks bright. I think the mind and your eyes can adjust fairly well to to different light levels as buddhamus bum meter proved. The mind is funny. Even when my bulb dims to 9fl, the picture will still be acceptable for viewing movies. The wife and I watched Star Trek (2009) last night in low lamp and the picture looked fantastic.

As for my calibration: Mike spent a few hours doing the grey scale and gamma which is now spot on (I had a pretty good red push both at the low and high end of the grey scale). He also set the gamma to 2.3 and did a custom gamma fix to a few points along the line. The darkest grey had a bit of a blue push as well which his gamma tweaks fixed rather well. My gamma is now measured at 2.2.

Since the colouring, with my settings, looked rather good to my eye already, the calibrated colours didn't look all that different/better to me. More accurate yes but not a huge difference. Having the proper grey scale and gamma makes the picture come to life and it's here where I find the biggest and most noticeable benefits to this calibration (I'm sure the accurate colours help as well).

Overall I'm really happy with his calibration. Let's hope the lamp stays fairly stable....oh well, the price I have to pay for having that theater look and feel.

note: the fl were pre-calibration (-7 on the iris) and will have to wait for his report to get the final numbers. I forgot to ask him post-calibration.

Some of us (at least one other person, yesterday I think, posted) experienced slight bumps up in FL after the calibration.
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post #757 of 1221
1/13/13 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabalocker View Post

The calibrator who did mine said that 2.3 was actually closer to 2.2. After his custom tweaks, the final measurements on gamma were 2.2. He used a very expensive highly sensitive meter ($30+ grand)

He also said I could post his graphs when he emails them to me.
I have my Custom Gamma Correction Factor set to 2.3 and here's how it actually measured post-calibration:



I'm sure there's a way to tweak this using the projector's controls and CalMAN but I have the Basic license and haven't seen any workflows or tools related to tweaking gamma.

FWIW here are the rest of my calibration results. Green seems to be the limiting color (as I've read here before) because increasing saturation in the CMS doesn't have any affect on measurements. Still, I was able to get green's dE below 3 so it's all good:

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post #758 of 1221
1/14/13 at 12:32pm
Has anyone hooked into the ethernet interface? The remote control software 'Roomie' says it can talk to the projector directly over IP / Ethernet.... Also wondering if there is a cheap way to get it done wireless instead of running a new cat 5

Thx!
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post #759 of 1221
1/14/13 at 4:05pm
I have used both roomie and iRule with success. They both work as advertised. I prefer iRule. My wife uses roomie on her iPhone.
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post #760 of 1221
1/14/13 at 4:20pm
Did you use wired or wireless ethernet???
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post #761 of 1221
1/15/13 at 11:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcard011 View Post

Last night I finally reached 100 hours on my 4810. Since I had played with the setting quite a bit during this time, I decided to do a Reset to the Film Mode. Then I went into the OPPO-95 settings and changed sharpness and contrast to +1

The picture that is being projected now is just beyond all my expectations. Watched Cars2 with the family last night and everyone kept commenting on how good and balanced the overall picture was. The sharpness is just right and the screen just pops with beautiful colors and contrast.

Not sure if this is what Darbee does but by tweaking these settings on the OPPO and leaving the RS4810 to the default Film mode I'm one happy camper.

BTW HDMI1 on the OPPO is set to video only and is connected directly to the 4810 bypassing the receiver. HDMI2 on the oppo goes to the receiver and is used for Audio.

If anyone has a similar setup, its worth a try.

I have a Sony BDP-S590, Any suggestions on what setting to do for that? I have not changed anything yet on my new 4810, just put in about 12-14 hours
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post #762 of 1221
1/15/13 at 12:07pm
Sorry don't know much about the Sony BDP-S590. The oppo uses the Qdeo processor and I've used it before to tweak the picture on my TV's. Wanted to try it with the projector and the results are very good.
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post #763 of 1221
1/15/13 at 8:45pm
Been lurking on the threads trying to soak up information for my first HT in my now under construction house.

Is there any real difference in PQ between the X55, RS48 and RS4810...enough to justify the cost differences?

My thoughts are that if there is very little difference then I would go with the RS48 and spend if difference on upgrading to a better screen and a Darbee. The extra year of warranty may or may not be a factor...a crap shoot with any projector.

Thank you all for your input and knowledge. I do appreciate the comments on these projectors...both good and bad in helping me make my final choice in a few weeks.
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post #764 of 1221
1/15/13 at 11:02pm
They're the same projectors as far as I know except, as you stated, the warranty. That is my understanding. I own the X-55 and it's a really good projector, IMHO. My 153" screen is pushing this projector to the max though and suggest you try to keep your screen under a 140" (unless you have a high gain screen).

I like the Darbee and think it adds just that extra little pop. I know it's a contrast enhancer but I do like what it does.
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post #765 of 1221
1/16/13 at 6:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveR1952 View Post

Been lurking on the threads trying to soak up information for my first HT in my now under construction house.

Is there any real difference in PQ between the X55, RS48 and RS4810...enough to justify the cost differences?
They are all the same projector. Picture quality is identical.

RS48 and RS4810 are sold through pro channels. Only difference is the warranty (RS4810 is 3 year, RS48 is 2).
The X55 is also the same projector, sold through consumer channels. 3 year warranty I believe.

Prices reflect the difference in warranty. What you choose is up to you.

Kal
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post #766 of 1221
1/16/13 at 6:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabalocker View Post

They're the same projectors as far as I know except, as you stated, the warranty. That is my understanding. I own the X-55 and it's a really good projector, IMHO. My 153" screen is pushing this projector to the max though and suggest you try to keep your screen under a 140" (unless you have a high gain screen).

I like the Darbee and think it adds just that extra little pop. I know it's a contrast enhancer but I do like what it does.

I have the RS-4810, which is same as X-55.
It is in completely light controlled HT, with black ceiling and very dark maroon walls.
I am projecting onto 150" EliteScreens Lunette 16x9 Cinewhite screen.

After calibration, I ended up in Cinema mode, low lamp with aperture at -15 (closed as far as it goes) and it is plenty bright.
Opening the aperture or switching to high lamp, result in an image that is too bright.

Not pushing it at all.
I am also using Darbee combined with e-shift in film mode - great image.
(calibration done without e-shift and without Darbee)
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post #767 of 1221
1/16/13 at 6:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dionyz View Post



After calibration, I ended up in Cinema mode, low lamp with aperture at -15 (closed as far as it goes) and it is plenty bright.
Opening the aperture or switching to high lamp, result in an image that is too bright.

Not pushing it at all.
I am also using Darbee combined with e-shift in film mode - great image.
(calibration done without e-shift and without Darbee)

Curious,

How did you turn e-shift off, and when you did your calibration did you do it for all modes???

Thx!
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post #768 of 1221
1/16/13 at 7:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamsys View Post

How did you turn e-shift off, and when you did your calibration did you do it for all modes???
e-shift is called MPC in the menus. Select the "OFF" setting to turn it off.

Normally you would not calibrate all of the modes. The different modes (film, cinema, animation, etc) are basically just different pre-made calibration settings that JVC thinks may be useful. For anyone looking at accuracy, most are horribly unsuable and falsely accentuate certain colours or features.

Usually something like Film or THX should be closest to correct so that is typically the one that people will use. Calibrate just the one to get a correctly calibrated mode. Most people will calibrate to the Rec.709 (HD) standard. That's all most people will need. (That's all I ever do).

Sometimes people will calibrate a second one for black and white or maybe if they have a different source that is way off or different gamut they want to use for some special needs.

Kal
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post #769 of 1221
1/16/13 at 9:02am
Anyone else have issues with the projector freezing if you recall a lens memory while running video through the projector?
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post #770 of 1221
1/16/13 at 9:25am
That's the problem with rushing out, buying cheap test instrumentation and then getting upset, calling the dealer, posting, getting response, a kinda big false alarm because of some need to measure. It happens over and over at the consumer level. Mine isn't measuring up to snuff. His measured higher. At least we have stopped doing this re ANSI CR. But not from brightness. We gotta buy a cheap meter and measure and obsess. Will the bulb last x. how much has it decayed at x, y, and t. Has somebody run it for y and what do you measure. 100 lux and then a remessure of 103. what a relief. thank God it didn't drop 3 lux.


Where has the enjoyment gone? Maybe instead of cheap light meters people should be buying expensive rectal thermonmeters.
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post #771 of 1221
1/16/13 at 9:41am
Are we bit grumpy this morning Mark? eek.gif

As you know there is a lot of variance between projectors. That's easy to accept if you got an average or above average unit but much tougher to accept if you get one that's not. We all pay roughly the same amount of money yet convergence, sharpness and even color spaces are all a luck of the draw crap shoot. Personally, I've had 6 different JVC's and I've not lucked out yet with convergence or color space. Folks have kept their RS-35's because of JVC QA. So far this year it seems that the lamp issues are a thing of the past but I see nothing wrong with folks posting their numbers.
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post #772 of 1221
1/16/13 at 9:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post



Where has the enjoyment gone? Maybe instead of cheap light meters people should be buying expensive rectal thermonmeters.

I literally just choked on my morning coffee. That is one of the funniest (and true at times for ALL of us including myself) things I have read in a while! biggrin.giftongue.gif Great quote Mark and I think this or some sort of slight variation to include a broader range of HT in general should be put in your signature!

In all seriousness though, I do understand the concern people have with various elements of these projectors as far as the unit to unit variation. It is definitely frustrating that things are not more consistent between samples!
Edited by Toe - 1/16/13 at 9:56am
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post #773 of 1221
1/16/13 at 9:51am
Some people that heard about the last 2 years of bulb dimming are curious to see if the bulb holds up. I don't care too much for it because I don't put a ton of hours on my jvc. I understand why others do care.
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post #774 of 1221
1/16/13 at 10:04am
As you get older Mark, having a light meter at least lets you know that its your projectors bulb thats going dim, not your eyes.................cool.gif
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post #775 of 1221
1/16/13 at 3:07pm
I guess it might seem a bit 'anal' checking on the lux of my X35, but it's good to see that it is remaining stable after all the threads I've read about the older models and dimming issues. I've not spent very much time calibrating this projector at all (autocal is quick anyway cool.gif) I'm just happy watching it, but it doesn't make very exciting threads just to keep posting: " I'm Kelvin and I'm very happy with my X35". tongue.gif
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post #776 of 1221
1/17/13 at 6:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark haflich View Post

That's the problem with rushing out, buying cheap test instrumentation and then getting upset, calling the dealer, posting, getting response, a kinda big false alarm because of some need to measure. It happens over and over at the consumer level. Mine isn't measuring up to snuff. His measured higher. At least we have stopped doing this re ANSI CR. But not from brightness. We gotta buy a cheap meter and measure and obsess. Will the bulb last x. how much has it decayed at x, y, and t. Has somebody run it for y and what do you measure. 100 lux and then a remessure of 103. what a relief. thank God it didn't drop 3 lux.


Where has the enjoyment gone? Maybe instead of cheap light meters people should be buying expensive rectal thermonmeters.

All for enjoyment mate, of course!.

But after JVC's previous PJ's and there dimming problems...lamps blowing, optical blocks stuffing up. Id rather play it and safe and claim every bit from them as long as my warranty lasts, thats what its there for, isnt it?. It may not seem much to you...but I want my PJ to perform the way its meant to perform.....not be stuck with a dead beat PJ and cant use it to its full potential.

I understand I brought a cheap ass meter and that is definetly my fault, no doubt about it...Ill be buying AEMC meter as everyone recommends it as its pretty accurate. But I will always recommend everyone check there light output from time to time.

P.S - I am enjoying the hell out of my PJ more now, as I know everything is working as it should!
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post #777 of 1221
1/17/13 at 10:11am
Quote:
Ill be buying AEMC meter as everyone recommends it as its pretty accurate.

Thay are definitely a good thing to have.

http://www.tequipment.net/AEMCCA813.html?gclid=CKPKwaj-77QCFad_Qgodk20AGg
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post #778 of 1221
1/19/13 at 6:46am
I have been using my 4810 for over a month now and thought I would
pass along my MPC impressions.After trying many levels looking at
a multitude of blu rays and test patterns I concur with others on this thread
that with e shift 2 on they are best all set at 0.
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post #779 of 1221
1/19/13 at 8:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post

Thay are definitely a good thing to have.

http://www.tequipment.net/AEMCCA813.html?gclid=CKPKwaj-77QCFad_Qgodk20AGg

that's the same one I use, it's a great meter.
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post #780 of 1221
1/19/13 at 9:59am
I found there's no way to correct undersaturated green using Lumagen after measuring all the color modes in RS4810. I couldn't get perfect CMS correction since It does not have larger gamut like wide1/wide2.
Was anyone successful in gamut calibration with Lumagen?
I think JVC should release new firmware to fix green color issue. Compared to JVC, Sony has more accurate CMS called RCP and it's easy to calibrate.
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