Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 30

...I don't see a zero adjust on the CA813. It would seem zero adjust would be a desirable feature to help deal with drift, especially at low level measurements?.

Any reports on how the lamps are holding up after some hours are getting logged?

Any reports on how the lamps are holding up after some hours are getting logged?

240 hours now. 180 peak center lux on low lamp iris open at 0 hours. Now it fluctuates between 165 - 175 lux, usually up higher after several hours.

This is plain fkn awesome and good news

With zero lens shift, does the projector throw an image that is centered vertically to the projector placement, or goes it natively throw an image from "top down/bottom up"?

Just curious if I'd be using more lens shift with a high shelf mounted position as opposed to having the projector at the same height but inverted.

If it's level with the top of the screen I wouldn't sweat it: My X35 is (on it's feet) and the image is still pin sharp (though it is a long throw and no zoom applied). You get more ANSI contrast too with some lens shift as it reduces the reflections back into the projector. I'm moving my X35 onto a separate shelf soon and I may even raise the projector higher to see if it further improves ANSI contrast (will test first before drilling any holes ).

Its all relative. Its also where you focus your attention on the screen. The ideal spot for best lens performance in my opinion is with the image of the chips centered in the lens. As a rule of thumb having the lens centered no higher than the top of the lens will give decent results but not as sharp and will exhibit some CA.

It is true that ANSI contrast might slightly increase if the image is moved closer to the black absorbing lens barrel, the improvement would be very small, less than a 5% improvement. This could be measured by a person measuring in his own theater with and wthout using lens shift. But if some measurement adict measures and say gets a 4.78% improvement in ANSI, be sure and ask him to get his sharpness and convergence (caused by CA) meters out too and then give you his weighting factors he used to determine which way gives the net best.

I have concuded that the best net is mounting at screen horizontal and vertical center. The sharpness decline and increased CA is noticeablt to which I guess I am not a good enough viewer to perceive a 5% change in ANSI. But mounting a bit higher gives good results and mounting no higher than screen viewing surface top will not make Joe customer see anything but a great image to him. We tend to look at screen center and bottom screen crawl.[
Edited by mark haflich - 1/26/13 at 7:34pm

Sorry Mark I have to disagree: I used to have my HD350 set up as you recommend and I could clearly see some 'ghost' images particularly noticeable on end credits as I could see a light patch going the opposite way on the screen. When I moved the projector to level with the top of the screen the 'ghost' image went. I compared the sharpness at the screen and any difference went un-noticed to me, but back at my seat I could clearly see that the ghosting issue was resolved. It was apparent in certain dark scenes too if there was a bright area on a corner of the image, then an inverted similar sized patch would appear on the other (the Oppo screensaver was particularly noticeable, but actual video too).

Tough choice: Do I worry about a change in sharpness that I couldn't notice even close to the screen or something obviously wrong that I could see from my seated position? I wasn't alone in seeing this effect, though it might have something to do with my very long throw. I haven't tried moving my X35 to centre to see if it does it, though I might just try it to see if it's something that they have improved since my oldHD350.

I do wonder if some of the issues of sharpness are due to tending to use short throw set ups in an attempt to maximise brightness? I would like to change my room around but I could only achieve the same screen size at maximum zoom in this new setup and I much prefer the long throw performance since I have enough light...

Has anyone tried the Monstervision 3D glasses with this projector? I'm very tempted to go that route, much cheaper than JVC glasses. Polarization isn't an issue as I have a HP screen.

Also I'm reading conflicting things. Will the IR emitter and glasses from my RS40 work with the RS4810 and RS46?
Edited by plissken99 - 1/25/13 at 1:55pm

The monstervision do work for 3d on the 4810.I. dont know if JVC emitter will operate the mvs but the mvs do come with their own emitter .I used the mv emitter with no issues .

The Samsung SSG-4100GB 3D active glasses are available on Amazon for under $20 and are verified to work with RS56. There are also reportedly very comfortable to wear with Rx eyewear. FWIW

How does the RS48 handle 480i inputs? I cant tell from the literature or threads if it actually has a scaler in it? I know the 2k-4k part, but if I feed it 480i or 1080i will it upscale it ?

Thx!

What emitter do they work with?

From what i read, they work with the JVC emitter and the Panasonic tv's as well.

Awesome, I'll have to give those a try. A friend of mine has a TV with very similar form glasses, they were much mor comfortable(lighter) than the JVC glasses!

My old fpj1/rs2 has horrible convergence. I would LOVE to buy a 4810 but want terrific convergence and focus as I sit at 1x screen width. If anyone has a 4810 that qualifies, I would love to buy it. I will make it worth your while.

This year's JVCs anecdotally have very good out-of-box convergence and focus. Plus, the RS4810 has 121-point fine zone convergence. I know the naysayers are coming, so I'll get this out of the way ahead of time. Many folks have pooh-poohed the fine convergence adjustment saying it results in visible artifacts, but I've yet to see any proof of that (besides staring at test patterns that don't mimic real world viewing). My convergence was very good out of the box but I used the fine zone adjustment to dial it in perfectly across the entire screen. My picture looks extremely sharp and detailed, even on test patterns. And, as a JVC engineer told me, the convergence adjustment is provided because it produces benefits you can see.

So, the bottom line is that I wouldn't worry about buying a 4810. It'll likely have very, very good convergence out of the box, and for those areas where the convergence appears off (due to CR from lens positioning or unit-to-unit variance), you can correct it with the provided multi-zone fine adjustment.

In order to even display a 480i or 1080i input on its native 1080p LCoS panels, the JVC RS48 must have a scaler. So yes, it has a scaler, and 480i and 1080i inputs are displayed just fine. However, it will not accept or display a native 4K input.

I dialed my RS48 in with the fine pixel adjustment too. I check it before each movie and its been perfect every time, even after 115 hours

Zone adjustment off :


Zone adjustment on:


I see the color offset when fine adjustment on and this makes me reluctant to adjust convergence with zone adjustment. The testing pattern was one pixel resolution from avshd disc.

I know mis-convergence bugs the crap out of everyone (me included) but an LCD TV, Plasma's, and all CRT's can be thought of as "misconverged" since the RGB pixels don't sit atop one another - they sit side by side and there's no way around that yet we don't have any issues with that. Why then do we want perfect convergence with our projectors? Is it really a case of the sky is falling if the pixels are misaligned by sub fractions of a pixel (or even 1 pixel)? If you can't see misconvergence at the seated position is it really necessary to fix something that isn't broken (at your seat)? I must confess I'm really not an expert on this but I do wonder if we get too carried away with misconvergence.....

+1.

I've seen the same color-shift effect with the Pixel Adjust function activated when viewing a single pixel test pattern, but I've never seen it in actual video, even when pausing a scene and turning the Pixel Shift feature on and off to compare.

Now, if you spend your days watching single pixel test patterns, then you might not want to use the fine Pixel Adjust feature, but aside from that, I think it provides a net improvement to the picture.

I tried your gamma and I like it.

I watched Samsara, Wrath of the Titans and the first episode of Battlestar Gallactica. Samsara was beautiful but depressing.

I was previously using 2.3 gamma with the dark level white bumped up two notches but I think this looks a little better.

thanks for the settings
Edited by edfowler - 1/28/13 at 6:43am

SOWK, Gamma looks pretty good. I'll post what my THX calibrator did to my projector. I know everyone's will be different based on their room and screen-size etc. But here it goes:

My screen is a Seymour XD screen, 153" diagonal 16x9 with the color profile set to standard. My projector is approximately 16 feet back ceiling mounted near the top centre of the screen. He calibrated my projector in high lamp mode with the Iris at 0 to get the most lumens for my screen size. I've since dropped the iris to -3 and will bring it back to zero as my bulb ages trying to achieve a constant bulb brightness. Probably not the best approach but hey...it is what it is. I think the end result for my room and setup looks pretty sweet.

• Custom Gamma 2.3
• ____W __R __ G __ B
• 5%- 48 47 48 42
• 10%- 94 94 94 90
• 15%- 139 139 139 139
• 20%- 193 190 193 190
• 30%- 288 288 288 288
• 40%- 391 391 391 391
• 50%- 496 496 496 496
• 60%- 598 598 598 598
• 70%- 704 704 704 704
• 80%- 808 808 808 808
• 90%- 916 916 916 916
• 95%- 970 970 970 970

Color Management

• ____R O Y G C B M
• Axis 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
• Hue 3 0 6 13 -5 0 -6
• Sat -2 0 4 10 10 6 15
• Bri 5 0 18 1 10 8 20

Color Temp.

Gain R -2
Gain G -8
Gain B 0
offset R -3
offset G -1
offset B 0

Edit: I'm not sure why the columns won't line up and shifted to the left????? nothing lines up like I typed. Oh well.
Edited by Crabalocker - 1/28/13 at 9:43am

And projector. That's a big variable. Unit to unit variation can be quite large. Just a lamp change requires a re-calibration.