Offical JVC DLA-RS4810 Owners Thread - Page 33

Originally Posted by freebits 

Oh, there may be no FW update fixing CMS!
Following is comments from Steve at AVForums who wrote X55 reviews.

Originally Posted by Jedi 

...I do recall that an early CMS problem back with the RS20 was fixed with a firmware download. And, it took a while to be released. I still have the cable purchased solely for that purpose.

Originally Posted by landshark1 

Quick question for my fellow RS4810 owners!

What do you guys use to control the projector?

I'm using Harmony 900 + it's RF extender. My setup is Harmony --> RF extender --> 2.5mm_to_3.5mm adapter --> 3.5mm cable --> Projector's Remote In.

My problem is, using this method, it can't turn the projector on! Every other commands work fine. I unplugged the 3.5mm cable, and just use IR, it can turn it on now, but can't turn it off (works fine using RF tho). I even use the Learn Command to make sure it has the correct IR code.

This really driving me nuts! Anyone have any idea/advice please??

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Jedi 

Landshark, my URC handheld controller allows me to configure its output as "IR Only", "RF Only" or "IR + RF", separately, for each controlled device. For the 4810 projector control, I experienced random problems when I had the controller in the IR + RF mode. I switched to RF Only and these problems disappeared. The projector becomes confused when sensing two separate IR signals at the same time -- one directly from the handheld, and the other from the RF pathway.

Originally Posted by Schwa 

there's no need to string baby-sized IR blasters to each component!

Originally Posted by Jedi 

--

Among the equipment installed, I have three directv receivers in my AV closet, in order to control each receiver individually, discrete dedicated flashers individually wired and configured to each are required, otherwise they would all respond to any centrally blasted directv IR command. Directv does not have enough multiple IR control code selections.

Originally Posted by landshark1 

Quick question for my fellow RS4810 owners!

What do you guys use to control the projector?

I'm using Harmony 900 + it's RF extender. My setup is Harmony --> RF extender --> 2.5mm_to_3.5mm adapter --> 3.5mm cable --> Projector's Remote In.

My problem is, using this method, it can't turn the projector on! Every other commands work fine. I unplugged the 3.5mm cable, and just use IR, it can turn it on now, but can't turn it off (works fine using RF tho). I even use the Learn Command to make sure it has the correct IR code.

This really driving me nuts! Anyone have any idea/advice please??

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Isantus 

My 4810 has arrived. I'm in love. Picture is amazing right out of the box and I'm coming from a vt50 plasma. I'm not going to calibrate it until I hit 100 hours but am curious as to everyone's out of the box best settings for the time being. Just looking for basic settings.

Projector is 17' from a 138" 1.78 screen in a dedicated room. Dark brown walls and ceiling 1.0 gain screen.

Glad to be a part of the club that's for sure!

Originally Posted by Crabalocker 

I posted what my THX, ISF calibrator did to my set up in post #899

Originally Posted by SOWK 

Where are you located?

Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S 


While it's interesting to see what your calibrator did I don't think there is any information in #899 that is going to help Isantus, since it's very specific to your particular projector and environment.

I'd suggest the following as being pretty much all you can do without a meter until you get a calibration, based on what I found with my X35 before and after I calibrated it:

For HDMI at Superwhite (Enhanced will require different contrast and brightness settings which can be checked using the FREE AVS HD709 disc basic patterns, as should these be also checked):

All controls at 0, contrast can be raised to +5 if you are happy to clip at 245 (check with AVS disc though). Or use HDMI 'Standard', contrast at 0 to clip at 235 if you prefer.
Colour temp either 6500K or try 7000K (mine measured closer with 7000K,but again each sample can vary)
Custom gamma set to 2.3 or just Gamma 'A' (will probably measure 2.2, you can try Custom 2.1 and 2.4 to taste)
I set my sharpness down to +2 since any higher shows ringing starting, (you can check this with patterns on the AVS disc where there are white/black transitions) I left detail at 0 since I have a Darbee and it seems to give less side effects on test patterns such as moire.

You're on your own regarding MPC settings since I don't have them. However, I'm calibrating an X55 in a couple of weeks, so chance to have a play with the settings since I haven't liked the last 2 X55s I've seen in terms of looking too processed.

I wouldn't sweat it too much, since you calibrator will sort it all out properly so you should see a further improvement once done...something to look forward to.

Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S 


While it's interesting to see what your calibrator did I don't think there is any information in #899 that is going to help Isantus, since it's very specific to your particular projector and environment.

I'd suggest the following as being pretty much all you can do without a meter until you get a calibration, based on what I found with my X35 before and after I calibrated it:

For HDMI at Superwhite (Enhanced will require different contrast and brightness settings which can be checked using the FREE AVS HD709 disc basic patterns, as should these be also checked):

All controls at 0, contrast can be raised to +5 if you are happy to clip at 245 (check with AVS disc though). Or use HDMI 'Standard', contrast at 0 to clip at 235 if you prefer.
Colour temp either 6500K or try 7000K (mine measured closer with 7000K,but again each sample can vary)
Custom gamma set to 2.3 or just Gamma 'A' (will probably measure 2.2, you can try Custom 2.1 and 2.4 to taste)
I set my sharpness down to +2 since any higher shows ringing starting, (you can check this with patterns on the AVS disc where there are white/black transitions) I left detail at 0 since I have a Darbee and it seems to give less side effects on test patterns such as moire.

You're on your own regarding MPC settings since I don't have them. However, I'm calibrating an X55 in a couple of weeks, so chance to have a play with the settings since I haven't liked the last 2 X55s I've seen in terms of looking too processed.

I wouldn't sweat it too much, since you calibrator will sort it all out properly so you should see a further improvement once done...something to look forward to.

Originally Posted by Isantus 

Thanks for all the great info! This is my first projector so the entire project has been a learning opportunity for me. I am still learning to use the unit and reading the manual like it is my favorite book. In conjunction with all of the info I have learned from this website, I feel that I have a pretty good idea of what to dial in for the time being. The projector looks just simply amazing but I don't want to miss any obvious settings for the time being as this is completely new to me. When I have purchased TVs in the past I know what to adjust for the most part to get it out of Torch Mode and to something more accurate to color and picture. However, these projectors don't seem to come set up the same way as a TV in terms of looking for the brightest picture out of the box. They seem to come pretty close to a solid picture so it is not as obvious to me what needs to be adjusted.

The biggest concern I have right now is the shadow detail. I am not sure if my expectations are high coming from a plasma VT50, or if I am not setting something up correctly but I seem to have a bit of black crush. Details do not stand out as well to me in dark areas of the screen. Keep in mind my room is not completely blacked out (the wife will never let that happen). I have complete control of all light in the room but the walls, ceiling and carpet are all a dark brown. I know that is not helping my situation either.

Any other thoughts would be wonderful. Thanks again everyone!

Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S 

Do you mean that you have to watch with some lights on or just that you can't completely black out the room during the day?

Originally Posted by seanbryan 

. I can try to post SOWK's setting later (or maybe he can post them again?).

Originally Posted by Isantus 

That may be beneficial for the time being. I have messed with a lot of the settings to try to work out the details of the shadow. I am currently running it in low lamp with the iris at -7. Seems plenty bright to me and helps with the black level detail.