Pioneer Elite PRO-620HD stopped working

We have a PRO-620HD that worked flawlessly for ten years. Then a few weeks ago we were watching it and heard a "click" and the screen went black. The red standby light was the only thing lit. We turned off the set at the power button in front and waited a few minutes then turned it back on. The green ON light lit, there was a click then the green light went off and the red standby light on.

Removing the rear cover we noticed fuses FU202 and FU204 were blown. We replaced the two STK932-110 ICs with Sanyo STK932-180 and resoldered the entire power supply board (PS). We tried turning the set on and it was the same as before - green ON light, a click, then red standby. The two fuses were not blown this time. Several more attempts saw no changes.

The D915 LED was lit on the PS and the D923 LED was lit on the convergence amp assembly (CAA), indicating a problem with the CAA. Thinking there may be more problems than just the ICs, we ordered a new CAA from Pioneer. We installed that and once again tried to get the set to work. It still didn't. Green ON, click, red standby.

There was one nagging issue that haunts us - when disconnecting the old CAA, a screw was left in the metal ring holder and that was laid over the video board to get the wires out of the way. When reconnecting the new CAA that screw dropped into the video board. It seemed to vanish! In order to find it, we had to remove the entire video rack and that required the disconnection of several connectors. After the missing screw "reappeared" we put everything back together and plugged in all the connectors. But there was one connector on the video assembly that had no cable to plug into it. In the service manual there is an arrow from it that points to "To AUTO COVER". If there is a cable that is supposed to be connected to this, it has disappeared. We must have looked for 20-30 minutes for it! So, for the moment, this connector has no cables connected to it.

So after spending hours resoldering the PS, time and money on replacing the ICs and then spending another $315 on a new CAA, we are right where we were when the set turned itself off three weeks ago.

BTW, the set was disconnected from 120v power and remained so until after the ICs were replaced. When they didn't work, the set was unplugged again. After the new CAA didn't work, we once again unplugged the set. So if it has to remain plugged in for any length of time, this has not been happening.

The diagnostic LEDs are on the board assemblies, which you can only see by removing the rear cover. In the troubleshooting in the service manual it asks if the LED light is ONLY on at the power supply then it tells you what steps to follow. If the LED is lit on the PS and another board (on ours it's the convergence amp assy LED that's also lit) then it directs you to those steps.

According to the service manual, when the convergence amp assembly LED is the one also lit, the cause is "V. deflection stopping". Then it lists 7 items to check, 4 of them are related to connector plugs not being plugged in. Those we've all checked and double checked.

The next item is "Abnormality in the V. BLK2 waveform..." between two points and says probable defective part is an IC in the sub video assy ($480 new).

Next is the same as above but between two different points and says probable defective part is an IC in the deflection service assy ($280 new).

And the last one, "no waveform is output" between two other points and the probable defective part are parts that are on the convergence amp assembly, which shouldn't be an issue with the new CAA we just installed.

So we would need something to test the V. BLK2 waveform on two of the assemblies, which we don't have.

Unless someone here has something else to look for, we have two choices, pay a tech to fix it or roll it out to the end of the driveway and buy something to replace it. I'm not sure which would be better in the long run. From what I've read, the authorized Pioneer techs just replace boards. And they usually include the PS which runs $280 if I buy it direct from Pioneer.

BTW, yes, I did check the fuses with a continuity tester. And that connector without any wires going to it, I think it must have been that way before. Even opening the front I saw no hanging connector looking to be plugged in.

Thank you! What you say makes lots of sense. This helps in putting my mind at ease letting go of that "but this TV was SO expensive when we bought it I just hate to throw it away!" thought that keeps rolling around in my mind.

Yesterday, after I wrote my reply here, I started looking at the realities of the whole Pioneer Elite package we bought back then. We had read so many great reviews we became convinced this was the best home system out there and spent a small fortune for the TV, receiver, DVD player and CD player.

A few years later we inserted a DVD of a movie we had just bought. Nothing happened. We tried another DVD and it worked fine. Some research later and we find this $2,000.00 machine has an inherent flaw, it didn't play certain formats. If I remember right, Pioneer knew about this and was sued and owners could take in their unit and have it repaired for free. We did but it didn't fix the problem. We finally gave up and just resigned ourselves to the fact this thing wouldn't play certain DVDs.

About a month before the TV went out, the 301 disc, $600.00 CD player (that we hardly ever used because it was such a pain to find anything on it) just stopped working. The lights go on but nothing works.

Then there's the receiver, that originally listed for $2,500.00. Lately it has been acting up. If you have the mute on when you turn it off, there is no sound when you turn it back on. You have to turn it on, un-mute it (which still produces no sound) then turn it off, wait for a bit, then turn it back on. I'm waiting for it to die soon too.

All total, this system would have cost over $12,000 back in 2002 and if you paid MSRP. We paid about $7,000. That's still a LOT of money! And then to consider Pioneer KNEW about many of the problems their products had and still sold it and charged what they did... Well, I've completely lost faith in them. I'll never buy another Pioneer product again.

Back in 1970 I bought a stereo system than included a Sansui receiver, Dual turntable and EPI speakers. Everything still works fine but the tuner part of the receiver. It went out a few years ago. In 1985 I bought a Sylvania Superset 19" TV. It worked beautifully for over 23 years and, until we bought the Pioneer, it was our only TV, so it got a lot of use. Other electronics we bought before the Pioneer system are also still working. I guess I expected the same kind of performance from Pioneer.

I think what we'll do is play around with the set, replacing bit parts, doing some resoldering but no more major purchases to fix this. I'm going to see if Pioneer will take their board back. That would be nice to get a refund. We could put it towards another TV. The Sony we have leaves a huge gaping hole in the entertainment center I custom built for the 620HD.

BTW, we've researched those sites you mentioned (and a bunch others) and all the experts say to replace the convergence ICs, resolder the boards and if that doesn't work, "You have another problem" which I translate as "This could go on forever and cost an arm and a leg to fix".

Thanks again for your input. It's helped a lot.

I just checked the Pioneer site for returning the CAA. I can return it but they charge a 20% restocking charge. $56 to restock this circuit board! They must pay their people well.

Sometimes it's better not to be miserable, even if you have no company.

When I called for the return auth. the lady asked if it was used. I had a feeling if I said I had installed it I wouldn't get a refund so I said I hadn't. They are giving me back $260 of the $315 I paid but that included $16 in shipping. So their restocking is less than the 20% listed on the website. I'm not complaining though.

I ordered all the parts the service manual said could be causing whatever might be wrong, thinking if I replaced all of them maybe the thing might work. That totaled $36, including a $20 solder sucker. But after removing the boards I saw one of the ICs that I ordered is one of those really small square things that look like nano robots installed it. Even under magnification, I can see no way I can replace it. There are about 80 points on the four sides that have solder joints about the size of a pin point.

We're now looking at new sets. That speaks to the faith I have we can get this thing fixed.

I never even thought circuit board shops existed. I'll have to check that out. As for Pioneer's policy, I don't blame them for not taking back anything that's been powered up but that restocking charge removes any guilt I might have had for telling them I didn't use it. That and the fact they make so difficult and expensive to repair their sets, ones that they sold knowing they had problems.

I know what you mean about giving up on the TV. Ours really had a great picture and worked flawlessly for 10 years then POOF! It died. It's like going through the five stages of grief. I was completely in denial that we couldn't get it working again. Then I was angry it died. Then I was bargaining, "If we can just get it working for another year or two...". Then came the depression. I think I'm still there.

But today I was looking at the "black box" that sits in our family room. It really is a handsome thing. It seems a crime to just roll it out to the trash.

If we bought another TV it would probably be of considerably less depth than what we have and we'd need something to sit it on. The entertainment center is 24" deep. And that puts the front of the screen at a perfect viewing distance. So I looked at the black box and imagined saving the bottom of it as a platform for a new TV. I could cut it to a height that would allow the new TV to be in the same place as the old screen. (Depression fading...)

I do a lot of woodworking. I was seeing the black laminate bottom with a really nice walnut or mahogany top upon which the new TV would sit. The black box already has a very nice set of wheels and an opening in front, that's covered by speaker screen, where I could place the sub-woofer. I'd have to gut all the electronics and modify the interior framework a bit but it's very doable.

I saw a 60" LG plasma for about a grand that fit the opening perfectly. Six reviewers all gave it 5 stars. And it's cheap. We don't need or want 3D and all the other bells and whistles.

I think it's time to head to Abt.

Well, we took the easy route. We bought a new TV. The idea we never knew when the money pit would be full enough to fix the TV was nagging on us. Even with the returns we had probably spent $300-400 and gone nowhere. That's easy to do when you're in denial.

Today our Bears were playing and even though they are maybe an 8-8 team this year, we're die-hard fans and if we were going to watch them we'd have to watch them in the bedroom. It felt weird to watch the Bears in bed at noon on a Sunday. Also today was the FedEx Cup (golf) final round we wanted to see. And that black abyss was becoming hauntingly eerie, especially on football Sunday.

So we went out this morning to "look" at TVs. I don't think either of us was prepared for the visual overload. Abt is a BIG store. And once we got into the TV section, the place was packed. Thankfully I had done some homework. In our price range the Panasonic ($1297) was getting the best reviews from both consumers and editors. LG and Samsung had $999 60" plasmas but Abt only carried Samsung in plasma.

I had resigned myself to pay the $1000-1300 for the lower end versions on 60" plasmas. Once we zeroed in on the where the 60" plasmas were, it was "Find the 7 differences" game. Eyes flashing back and forth between TV looking to see which one had the better picture. Dizzying!

In the end we bought a Panasonic TC-P60ST50 ($1537). The "ST" is their middle of the road model. The sales guy told us he didn't see any difference between the top model and the ST outside of the $800 difference. We didn't either. But there was a slight difference between the UT series and the ST, besides the $300 price difference.

But what was most interesting was what we heard during the conversation about life of the product and reliability. "TVs aren't made like they used to be. Most TVs today are good for 8-10 years. Then you come back and buy another. The manufacturers aren't interested in building a product that will last like they used to be." Something I was already coming to believe. Now I was hearing it from another.

We got the TV set up in time to see the last few minutes of the Bears game. Then we watched the rest of the FedEx Cup. And in that time we had said several times, "I think this has a better picture."

Way to go! It's nice to know someone had some success.

From what I saw in our service manual, there's a lot of steps you have to take after you replace parts. My head was spinning reading it. I hope yours is not as intensive.

We're happy with the new TV. It really blows away the old one but I shouldn't be surprised. Technology races so fast and ten years is an eternity in electronics. When we have time we'll cut the old TV box down and use the bottom for a stand. I'll bet people coming over won't even notice we have a new TV, until we turn it on. But the dimensions and appearance of the new TV are very close to that of the old one, less the bottom. And since it sits back inside the entertainment center, you won't see the sides, unless you really look. It will be interesting to see who notices.

Good luck getting your set working again!