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Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer - Page 42

post #1231 of 2212
Man. How narrow? The backs come off most of those chairs.

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post #1232 of 2212
O rly?
post #1233 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

O rly?

Yup. I have a fairly narrow theater at 10' 8" and my hallway going into it is just under 36", and my door is 34" wide. Chairs were shipped in 2 pieces each (back and bottom). No issues getting them to their home. smile.gif
post #1234 of 2212
My theater is just as narrow but I seriously doubt my door is even that wide. More like 28" or something really crappy like that.
post #1235 of 2212
You would need to find out the size with the backs off. Might be close. Can you get to a wall once past the hallway? Opening up the wall and removing a stud is easier than removing the doorway. Unless you wanted to replace it with a bigger door.
post #1236 of 2212
I guess you'd have to see it but that's really not an option. No demolition. wink.gif
post #1237 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

I guess you'd have to see it but that's really not an option. No demolition. wink.gif

Clearly you just lack the dedication tongue.gif
post #1238 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

My theater is just as narrow but I seriously doubt my door is even that wide. More like 28" or something really crappy like that.

My door is 30" and with the backs off, it was an easy fit. 26" may work also. Just ask one of the suppliers, I am sure that they know exactly. smile.gif

By the way, the system sounds great. Spent the last few hours sitting through different scenes in movies, with a silly grin on my face. Enough bass to scare you and yet when I turned on the lights and go back and replay a scene that hit so hard, I was worried about the drivers, the drivers were not moving near as much as I thought they were. Reference level is an experience in my small room. Viewing from one screen width (9') when viewing a scope movie.
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post #1239 of 2212
I tested the two D4's of zheka's today on my WT3 and the T/S specs seem quite different then the D2's, though they model very close below about 40hz and are slightly less sensitive above.

(Both tested pretty close so I just posted one)

* This data was exported from the Dayton Audio WT3 Woofer Tester
* f(s)= 18.17 Hz
* R(e)= 7.21 Ohms
* Z(max)= 39.15 Ohms
* Q(ms)= 2.661
* Q(es)= 0.601
* Q(ts)= 0.490
* V(as)= 299.600 liters (10.580 cubic feet)
* L(e)= 6.60 mH
* n(0)= 0.29 %
* SPL= 86.65 1W/1m
* M(ms)= 499.10 grams
* C(ms)= 0.15 mm/N
* BL= 26.14

Anyone have some D4's that can double check those numbers?
post #1240 of 2212
Are these measured 'out of the box' or 'broken in'.
Thanks for posting, interesting.
post #1241 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

As far as I know it's very difficult to get an accurate voltage reading from anything other than oscilloscope with that low frequency range...correct?


what if current was measured instead?
post #1242 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by art West-VL. View Post

Are these measured 'out of the box' or 'broken in'.
Thanks for posting, interesting.
No problem, that was after about an hour of running sine waves through them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vitaminbass View Post

what if current was measured instead?

Actually back on this I had the same multi-meter wired up to my APA-150 while running the sine waves through the driver before testing with my WT3 and it would clip around a reading of 18 volts. That puts it at right about the rated 75 watts into 4 ohms, the drivers excursion was also considerably less. So I would say the cheap multi-meter is at least close on the voltage reading, and that means the old Sony is cranking out some decent power smile.gif

VB your right that if current could be measured accurately that power in watts could be deduced using Ohm's law. I would need some kind of amp clamp though.
post #1243 of 2212
I'll go ahead and post this over here.
Quote:
You mean how does one interpret the maximum of 1 dB of difference between the two drivers? That I leave up to you.

18D2vs18D4.jpg

As I said in a previous post in [a different] forum most of you are boosting at some frequency. If you are boosting at any frequency you are throwing your Qtc measurement out the window because what you are after is a flat response. Boosting the frequency at any level at any frequency kills the modeling you are doing in WinISD. You might as well shoot for a Qtc of 199.99 because you can EQ it out and boost the frequencies you need to. In closing, the D4's offer more output below the crossover point than the D2's in the same sized sealed and vented enclosures. Is it, by the numbers, a .707 alignment? No. Does it offer more output over the bandwidth? Yes. We should have prohibited the output of the D4's...and we just might do so on future production runs.
post #1244 of 2212
I appreciate the reply, Nick.

Let me clarify my question, and it is not specific to the SI drivers but a more general one.

I want to understand what the transfer function magnitude chart in WinISD is supposed to show and why the shape of the curve in TF chart may be different from the SPL one.

The question was prompted by the fact that when comparing D2 and D4 version of the SI 18 HT drivers in the same enclosure, the TF chart would look similar to the one you posted - the D4 having more output down low and very close at higher frequencies. Yet the SPL charts look very different. I have tried various sizes, sealed and vented, EQ or naked. The D2 version would always be at least equal or have advantage over D4 across the passband, more significant at higher frequencies. I have not tried extreme power scenarios, all models were with 1000W or less, trying to keep the drivers within excursion limits.

Thank you
Edited by zheka - 1/27/13 at 7:09am
post #1245 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by robertcharles View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

After watching that, it got me wondering about how far away from the at-rest surround my grill cloth should be. I suppose it wouldn't do much harm if it reached out a kissed the cloth now and then. Any thoughts?

That is why I am having second thoughts on my retrofit of the Def Tech 1800. The grill I was going to incorporate was just to get the surround under the surface, but if the driver moves forward, it will end up pushing on the cloth at almost all times. I have a 1.5 inch thick grill on my LMS cabinets. and the drivers are recessed 3/4". I am mulling over the def tech thing, and might just build new cabs and let it roll.

Keep cranking,

Robert

One thing you might want to consider is taking out the new woofers from the DT cabinets, making separate cabs for them, and putting in a good-quality value-priced "pro" 18 (the Peavey Low Rider 18 strikes me as a great fit) in your DT mains.
post #1246 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post

One thing you might want to consider is taking out the new woofers from the DT cabinets, making separate cabs for them, and putting in a good-quality value-priced "pro" 18 (the Peavey Low Rider 18 strikes me as a great fit) in your DT mains.


I found the issue as to why my driver was bottoming out. I guess one of the kids was horsing around with the karate staff and punched a hole in one of the cones. I repaired the hole with epoxy and it is working fine now. I am mulling over a complete new cabinet design at the moment and hopefully will have something going soon. Thanks!


Keep cranking,

Robert
post #1247 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrodynamic View Post

I'll go ahead and post this over here.

Noooo.... Scott can't win... Noooo....
post #1248 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Noooo.... Scott can't win... Noooo....

the chart (transfer function magnitude) does not take sensitivity into consideration. D2 will produce higher SPL in the same size box and signal power.
post #1249 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Noooo.... Scott can't win... Noooo....



Quote:
Originally Posted by zheka View Post

the chart (transfer function magnitude) does not take sensitivity into consideration. D2 will produce higher SPL in the same size box and signal power.

Well duh. An 8ohm version of the same driver will be electrically less sensitive than the 4ohm version. But pair up two for 4ohm .... biggrin.gifcool.gif

Also, the same SPL for the same wattage dissipated. It's the overall voltage that would need to be higher but again.... used in pairs..... wink.gif
post #1250 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post



mesmerizing...
post #1251 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

VB your right that if current could be measured accurately that power in watts could be deduced using Ohm's law. I would need some kind of amp clamp though.

I don't have one with a clamp but my Fluke allows up to 10A to run through the meter (in series with the load). Not enough for high power testing though.
post #1252 of 2212
Uhh oooohhh!!!

Just got an email that my nine 18's were dropped off at my place. eek.gif
post #1253 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Uhh oooohhh!!!

Just got an email that my nine 18's were dropped off at my place. eek.gif

Awwwwww snap!
post #1254 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Uhh oooohhh!!!

Just got an email that my nine 18's were dropped off at my place. eek.gif

BOOM... literally. Don't let those things collect dust bro, time to let the LLT's go for a few and pop all 8 in the boxes you already have...four per cab, cutouts above the one you have now where the port is, two on the backside of each, done...
post #1255 of 2212
Oh and power them with a combustion engine of your choice smile.gif
post #1256 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Awwwwww snap!


Hhheeelllll yyyeeaahhhh! cool.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

BOOM... literally. Don't let those things collect dust bro, time to let the LLT's go for a few and pop all 8 in the boxes you already have...four per cab, cutouts above the one you have now where the port is, two on the backside of each, done...

Oh gosh, I'm not going to butcher my LLT's. redface.gif

But I will not wait too long to use em. Hopefully I'll be able to sneak one into my Jeep really soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Oh and power them with a combustion engine of your choice smile.gif

Gonna get a CV5000 and power four per channel 2ohm......at first anyway.
post #1257 of 2212
Quote:
Gonna get a CV5000 and power four per channel 2ohm......at first anyway.

post #1258 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post


Lol! It's what I feel comfortable with for the time being.

I think it's a good backup for when/if a clone amp were to zap out. I think it would be in everyone's best interest that I make sure everything actually just works then to have to deal with any of that clone failure. Yup.

AND HEY!!!! 108dB @ 10hz, 120hz @ 20hz per quad set (there will be three, one behind the cough even) is .... good enough. Yes sir. Yesssss......sssssiirrr. cool.gif
post #1259 of 2212
agreed. just had to give you a taste of your own medicine with the Url...
post #1260 of 2212
I'm actually LOL'ing pretty hard at the gif and the push towards more power. Trust me, I love it and I'm not getting defensive. I do it to you guys ALL THE TIME.

However, just so you can see where I'm coming from....

Here is a pic with a quad SI 18HT @ 625w each, quad SS RLp18's @ 800w each, one of my quad JBL 2226 cluster @ both 225w and 400w each and then a single one of my LLT's with a RLp18 @ 800w.



The pink line is the SI's and there will be two quad driver clusters up front. Yes, eight. The red line is the RLp18's which will go right behind my head. Equal output. Sometimes I amaze myself. biggrin.gifcool.gif The blue line is a single one of my LLT's. Look how they hold up against the onslaught! Crazy capable. The the two green lines are a single quad driver cluster of the JBL midbass at two different drive levels.

Bam!
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