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Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer - Page 45

post #1321 of 1707
1/31/13 at 8:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post

This is the info I want to hear. So in the case of doing 2 dual opposed builds(4 total speakers) you could have your cake and eat it too? extra output from 2 in the same cabinet and multiple placement for smotther repsponse, right?

Yup you got it. However, if you took BOTH dual opposed boxes, and put them BOTH in the same corner, you are still going to get additional gain!!! So, build two dual opposed for each corner, 8 total drivers, and then you don't only have the cake, you have pie, ice-cream, creme' brulee, et al.
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post #1322 of 1707
1/31/13 at 12:34pm
Speaking of which, I will post my post from the Holy Grail thread here, I think I might do it, I have another sheet of crap pine that I could use smile.gif
Quote:
I know right! I am halfway tempted tonight to drag up the ole LLT sonos, chop the tops off, remove the ports, and make some new endcaps/top baffle and have the other 4 ready for a new home. it would basically be a downfiring/upfiring D.O. sono similar but not as good looking as the blackbirds. That would literally take me one evening to complete and then I could have all 8 running, albeit not in the exact boxes I had originally thought...
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post #1323 of 1707
1/31/13 at 1:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

Really wanted to get in on this D2 deal.

What's the pros/cons of using the D2 vs D4 in single sealed boxes. I understand that for 2x single sealed boxes, it was suggested that I use the D4; but if I use the D2, what am I compromising?

Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Depends on what amp(s) you will be running - which will be?


How would two of Erich's flat packs, with two D4's, ( Single in each box) do with an inuke 3000dsp?
These would be wired for 2 Ohm stereo, correct ? They would be in a 11X14X8 room, thanks guys,
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post #1324 of 1707
1/31/13 at 1:37pm
Beast, thanks for answering me and smokarz. That's exactly what I needed. I'm going to go with 2x d4 for now. That should be plenty in my little room. If I end up feeling the need for more spl I can always buy two more drivers; one in each corner of the room or two dual-opposed. Now to see if I can find a good used amp...
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post #1325 of 1707
1/31/13 at 4:37pm
4 dual opposed alive and well. Now to make room so I can put them where they belong and wired up to the FP14k. It's been a looong day and I still gotta ways to go.
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post #1326 of 1707
1/31/13 at 4:45pm
What was the depth on those again? How much airspace did you end up with? Those look "large" for sealed son!! Work it!!! That is some nice ply too, plan on finishing them at all?
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post #1327 of 1707
1/31/13 at 4:47pm
Stellar bro...

They look mean!
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post #1328 of 1707
1/31/13 at 4:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

4 dual opposed alive and well. Now to make room so I can put them where they belong and wired up to the FP14k. It's been a looong day and I still gotta ways to go.


Nniiiiiccceeee!!! smile.gif

Fire it up! biggrin.gif
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post #1329 of 1707
1/31/13 at 4:53pm
I meant to post earlier but my initial feeling on the SI's was that they were still sucking a lot more power from the amp than I would think they would to get to ref (just the 4 on the single fp channel) Long story short, I had just literally wired them and tried em out a little prematurely. After doing the battery test one box was out of phase...Well that explains a lot!!! I have no idea where I miswired but it happened. didn't even have to open the box to fix it, flipped the input wires and now that all are moving in the same direction, I literally cranked the gain on the amp down by 50% and they are workin it HARD at +5 calibrated over the system. Unreal, just, unreal...
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post #1330 of 1707
1/31/13 at 5:23pm
Beast they ended up being 8.6 cubes net for the pair and 20.25” deep. I was gonna start finishing them but wanted to make sure I'll be legit for superbowl since I'll have a house full. They'll be hidden behind the screen anyways but I planned on a flat black bedliner finish. Thx Pop and Scott! I'm also finishing up midbass boxes for the JBL 2242s. Looong day smile.gif
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post #1331 of 1707
1/31/13 at 5:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by trancemitr View Post

Beast, thanks for answering me and smokarz. That's exactly what I needed. I'm going to go with 2x d4 for now. That should be plenty in my little room. If I end up feeling the need for more spl I can always buy two more drivers; one in each corner of the room or two dual-opposed. Now to see if I can find a good used amp...


You can check the used section of GuitarCenter. Can always grab a used EP2500 for under $200 shipped.
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post #1332 of 1707
1/31/13 at 5:45pm
gpmbc,

those look great! talk about small footprint, big performance!!
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post #1333 of 1707
1/31/13 at 6:10pm
Thx Brian! Mine are definitely more functional compared to your beauties.
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post #1334 of 1707
1/31/13 at 6:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Beast they ended up being 8.6 cubes net for the pair and 20.25” deep. I was gonna start finishing them but wanted to make sure I'll be legit for superbowl since I'll have a house full. They'll be hidden behind the screen anyways but I planned on a flat black bedliner finish. Thx Pop and Scott! I'm also finishing up midbass boxes for the JBL 2242s. Looong day smile.gif

Nice boxes!!! Mid bass 2242H's yesssssssssssssssssss!
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post #1335 of 1707
1/31/13 at 6:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I meant to post earlier but my initial feeling on the SI's was that they were still sucking a lot more power from the amp than I would think they would to get to ref (just the 4 on the single fp channel) Long story short, I had just literally wired them and tried em out a little prematurely. After doing the battery test one box was out of phase...Well that explains a lot!!! I have no idea where I miswired but it happened. didn't even have to open the box to fix it, flipped the input wires and now that all are moving in the same direction, I literally cranked the gain on the amp down by 50% and they are workin it HARD at +5 calibrated over the system. Unreal, just, unreal...

Wait a sec...what was all of that Holy Grail talk? Were you out of phase then?
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post #1336 of 1707
1/31/13 at 7:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Wait a sec...what was all of that Holy Grail talk? Were you out of phase then?

NOOO!!! That was after I fixed that situation. I just tested out the first few pairs of 3D glasses I just scooped with Prometheus and I didn't see the amp get to clipping, with the subs 5dB's hot and at -5 on the AVR, so technically Ref. It was incredible. more headroom is welcome, but they did all they needed to and brought about the next issue I am going to have, my drop ceiling was rattling pretty much across the board. Eh, Ill just turn it up louder and not worry about it. hahahahhahaha
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post #1337 of 1707
2/1/13 at 4:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Wait a sec...what was all of that Holy Grail talk? Were you out of phase then?

NOOO!!! That was after I fixed that situation. I just tested out the first few pairs of 3D glasses I just scooped with Prometheus and I didn't see the amp get to clipping, with the subs 5dB's hot and at -5 on the AVR, so technically Ref. It was incredible. more headroom is welcome, but they did all they needed to and brought about the next issue I am going to have, my drop ceiling was rattling pretty much across the board. Eh, Ill just turn it up louder and not worry about it. hahahahhahaha

Next Step, Decouple house from Earth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

4 dual opposed alive and well. Now to make room so I can put them where they belong and wired up to the FP14k. It's been a looong day and I still gotta ways to go.

Those look nice. Tall skinny is a nice way to fit a lot of cubic feet into a small footprint. You also might try alternating their orientation(invert) to experiment with cancelling your room height mode(s). I have had decent success with this. It does depend on your room height and the sub height, but worth a shot.
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post #1338 of 1707
2/1/13 at 5:31am
Thx Nick and N8 I'll do some configuring if the current configuration doesn't do what I need. N8Dogg, should have the 2242s up and running today too!
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post #1339 of 1707
2/1/13 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

NOOO!!! That was after I fixed that situation. I just tested out the first few pairs of 3D glasses I just scooped with Prometheus and I didn't see the amp get to clipping, with the subs 5dB's hot and at -5 on the AVR, so technically Ref. It was incredible. more headroom is welcome, but they did all they needed to and brought about the next issue I am going to have, my drop ceiling was rattling pretty much across the board. Eh, Ill just turn it up louder and not worry about it. hahahahhahaha

Awesome Beast! You are getting me excited. How is that other woofer you just got doing?

I laid down insulation on top of my entire drop ceiling (also helped with bass trapping). I also bought some grip mat stuff kind of like this, and cut it into rectangles and lightly glued two each tile side to isolate from the tracking. Between the two it helped out a lot but drop ceilings suck with bass.


http://www.walmart.com/ip/Performance-W88984-Grip-Mat-Tool-Box-Drawer-Liner-18-In.-X-48-In./21777625
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post #1340 of 1707
2/1/13 at 10:03pm
finally got everything wired up tonight. I can't wait to dial everything in. 8) SI 18s have crazy output and cone movement is nil. After seeing the excursion video, I know what they can do when pushed so I've gotta lot headroom left.
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post #1341 of 1707
2/1/13 at 10:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

finally got everything wired up tonight. I can't wait to dial everything in. 8) SI 18s have crazy output and cone movement is nil. After seeing the excursion video, I know what they can do when pushed so I've gotta lot headroom left.

That looks nice!

But I see room for at least FOUR more 2242's in that space. biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #1342 of 1707
2/2/13 at 5:37am
Well I've got ONE more that's not hooked up yet lol. I just have to figure out another amp and crossover channel when I hook up the center.
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post #1343 of 1707
2/2/13 at 6:11am
Quick question for those of you with SI18s on hand... which screw type is the correct type for mounting?

Also, I'll be getting two D4s. Each one I plan to wire in parallel, so each of my subs will be a 2 ohm load. If I plan to run in stereo mode off one amp, would a iNuke3000DSP work fine, or would an EP4000 and BFD be a better combination? According to my models, I should only need about 300-420W per speaker to reach reference volumes.
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post #1344 of 1707
2/2/13 at 6:44am
Hey Dan, I'll defer to someone else on the amp, but for screws I used 1 1/4” x 8GA coarse thread dry wall screws. The driver is not heavy compared to some other monsters I've had so they work just fine.
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post #1345 of 1707
2/2/13 at 6:56am
Ok, so it sounds like the holes in the driver aren't threaded. Would you happen to know the diameter of the holes?
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post #1346 of 1707
2/2/13 at 6:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

finally got everything wired up tonight. I can't wait to dial everything in. 8) SI 18s have crazy output and cone movement is nil. After seeing the excursion video, I know what they can do when pushed so I've gotta lot headroom left.

Wow.
How big is the room?
I do not recognize the center. Is it also by JBL?
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post #1347 of 1707
2/2/13 at 9:27am
Zheka, the area where the speakers and subs are located is tucked back 52”. At that point it's 10 ft wide. From that point forward it's 14 ft wide x 8 x 25 ft deep I believe. The center is a jbl 3677, soon it will be the same as the L & R which have jbl 3731 horn sections with a jbl 2242 bottom.
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post #1348 of 1707
2/2/13 at 10:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanLW View Post

Ok, so it sounds like the holes in the driver aren't threaded. Would you happen to know the diameter of the holes?
What do you mean not threaded?
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post #1349 of 1707
2/2/13 at 10:33am
I don't have access to measure, but they were big enough to accept these 1/4-20 bolts without a washer. They didn't all appear to be perfectly round. I think I read of someone needing to add some washers so the head of his screw didn't go through. Can't remember what size or where I read that.

I've never seen threaded holes on a driver. That would force the use of t-nuts or threaded inserts for mounting, which I doubt would be popular.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanLW View Post

Ok, so it sounds like the holes in the driver aren't threaded. Would you happen to know the diameter of the holes?
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post #1350 of 1707
2/2/13 at 11:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

What do you mean not threaded?

Threaded, like in needing a specific type of machine screw in order to fit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

I don't have access to measure, but they were big enough to accept these 1/4-20 bolts without a washer. They didn't all appear to be perfectly round. I think I read of someone needing to add some washers so the head of his screw didn't go through. Can't remember what size or where I read that.

I've never seen threaded holes on a driver. That would force the use of t-nuts or threaded inserts for mounting, which I doubt would be popular.

Ok, so I need something around 1/4". Here in Germany, most everything in the hardware stores is metric. 1/4" is 6.4mm, so 6mm machine screws (I plan to use T-nuts) should work. I'd prefer 8mm, and if the hole is larger than 5/16, that could work. I guess I'll just have to wait until the drivers get here. It would be nice if a mechanical drawing of the HT18 subs was available. I probably won't start my build until the 15th of February, but there's a very good chance my drivers won't be here by then, and it would be nice if I was able to have exact measurements before I start cutting wood.
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