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Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer - Page 56

post #1651 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by ultimatemj View Post

Awesome results!

Where are the wires? Wireless????

The wires are routed through the basement near a vent duct. The only visible wires in the whole system are for the L/R Sho-10s. I built the stands, just gotta figure out how to hide them still. Any recommendations?

Next project is bass traps and treatments - hence the naked front wall. Still in negotiations with the Chief of Staff on that one....

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1652 of 2212
Chief of staff, I like that one smile.gif Lol. great looking space, some deep brown or black 2 inch panels on the front wall would blend in nicely. You could also for a slight premium order some printed panels that would look really cool!! Try out:

Acoustimac.com
ATSacoustics.com---They will actually take a printed image you send them and put it on the panel if you want.

Pretty killer deal and can ease the pain on the wife and make everyone happy biggrin.gif
post #1653 of 2212
I've really wanted to do something like that with the granite tops. Mind sharing some details?

The only info I'd been able to find is that it would be about $100 for the stone, and then perhaps another $100 to have a "stoneworker" cut it to the exact size, edge it, and polish it. Does that sound right? How much of an overhang do you recommend, I was thinking about 3".

In that case, my "sub top" is 21" wide and 19" deep, so I would need like 26-27" wide and 24-25" deep.
post #1654 of 2212
I had a minimum overhang of about 1/4" on the sides and rear, and up to 1.25" on the front, to match the extension of the surround. You see 3 cm granite in kitchens with several inches of unsupported overhang, so you can probably do as much as you want. Stone price will vary a lot depending on what you want - but $100 probably isn't too far off, assuming something like 4-4.5 ft^2. If you are lucky you can find something on a remnant rack that is too small to have much use for other purposes. Factor in about $8-15 per linear foot of edge profiling, depending on what you want. I don't know what the cutting will cost - I am lucky to be good friends with a waterjet shop.

This is what I did with my pair.
Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

I've really wanted to do something like that with the granite tops. Mind sharing some details?

The only info I'd been able to find is that it would be about $100 for the stone, and then perhaps another $100 to have a "stoneworker" cut it to the exact size, edge it, and polish it. Does that sound right? How much of an overhang do you recommend, I was thinking about 3".

In that case, my "sub top" is 21" wide and 19" deep, so I would need like 26-27" wide and 24-25" deep.
post #1655 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

I've really wanted to do something like that with the granite tops. Mind sharing some details?

The only info I'd been able to find is that it would be about $100 for the stone, and then perhaps another $100 to have a "stoneworker" cut it to the exact size, edge it, and polish it. Does that sound right? How much of an overhang do you recommend, I was thinking about 3".

In that case, my "sub top" is 21" wide and 19" deep, so I would need like 26-27" wide and 24-25" deep.

I use a granite wholesaler and they charge $35/ft for remnant pieces. That price includes cut and polish, but nothing fancy on the edges. My box tops are 23" x 23". The granite was cut to 25" x 26" so that I could play around a little with overhang, and it ended up costing $300. After seeing both 1" and 1.5", I definitely prefer less overhang and would try 1/2" if I could do it again. You could go probably go up to 6" overhang as long as no one is sitting on it. Not sure how that would look though.

I had extra floor-rug-pad laying around, and used it in between the granite and box. No complaints thus far. Here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/Eco-Hold-Rug-Pad-Friendly/dp/B009CI5Y02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363965356&sr=8-1&keywords=floor+rug+pad
post #1656 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Chief of staff, I like that one smile.gif Lol. great looking space, some deep brown or black 2 inch panels on the front wall would blend in nicely. You could also for a slight premium order some printed panels that would look really cool!! Try out:

Acoustimac.com
ATSacoustics.com---They will actually take a printed image you send them and put it on the panel if you want.

Pretty killer deal and can ease the pain on the wife and make everyone happy biggrin.gif

Agreed on all accounts. Great recoomendations - I've looked into ATS and their printed images and it's definately a possibility. Probably do 4" panels due to my research, but like I said, gotta get approval first...
post #1657 of 2212
So yeah, two of these SI drivers outperform the Submersive HP that I had, and I loved that thing. The output off an EP4000 is just silly, and I have to turn the gain down half the time to not piss off the rest of the house. Sounds just as clean too, but with more impact.

Adding a buttkicker onto the couch feels like a 30db gain in the low end, without actually doing so. It totally tricks you into thinking your subs are doing double duty down low, and I love it.

Minidsp is on the way, and I hope to get time to take measurements soon.
post #1658 of 2212
Great to hear!
post #1659 of 2212
Have any of you 8+ sub guys added tactile transducers into your setups? Auras and anything under Clark Silver don't count.

I would think you guys would be the ones to enjoy it the most. Its a trip.
post #1660 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhazard View Post

Have any of you 8+ sub guys added tactile transducers into your setups? Auras and anything under Clark Silver don't count.

I would think you guys would be the ones to enjoy it the most. Its a trip.

That is why we have 8+ subs, so we don't NEED shakers. Sorry, but I don't believe in them...
post #1661 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhazard View Post

Have any of you 8+ sub guys added tactile transducers into your setups? Auras and anything under Clark Silver don't count.

I would think you guys would be the ones to enjoy it the most. Its a trip.

I've never liked them. Felt a few shakers from BK and thought the experience was obnoxious and unrealistic. Even sitting in a D-Box theater chair was not that great. Nothing beats the feeling of air shifted from actual subwoofers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

That is why we have 8+ subs, so we don't NEED shakers. Sorry, but I don't believe in them...

Right on!
post #1662 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

That is why we have 8+ subs, so we don't NEED shakers. Sorry, but I don't believe in them...

If you're on a concrete floor and want tactile feel, you do! Doesn't matter how may subs you have, you're not moving that concrete. I'm on a concret slab and have a BK mounted in my sofa. My brother is on a suspended wood floor atop a full basement--he doesn't need em. Properly dialed in, they really do make a huge difference. And I also have 2 SI-18s off an EP.
post #1663 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by wth718 View Post

If you're on a concrete floor and want tactile feel, you do! Doesn't matter how may subs you have, you're not moving that concrete. I'm on a concret slab and have a BK mounted in my sofa. My brother is on a suspended wood floor atop a full basement--he doesn't need em. Properly dialed in, they really do make a huge difference. And I also have 2 SI-18s off an EP.

Yep, concrete under the carpet here too. Buttkicker amp gain at about 35-45% in my setup really blends well, and I don't have to listen as loud for the same effect. Any higher than that, and it is distracting and overdone.
post #1664 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by wth718 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

That is why we have 8+ subs, so we don't NEED shakers. Sorry, but I don't believe in them...

If you're on a concrete floor and want tactile feel, you do! Doesn't matter how may subs you have, you're not moving that concrete. I'm on a concret slab and have a BK mounted in my sofa. My brother is on a suspended wood floor atop a full basement--he doesn't need em. Properly dialed in, they really do make a huge difference. And I also have 2 SI-18s off an EP.

I am surrounded by 3 walls of concrete, brick, and underground. Solid foundation below, and even though it never will be "As tactile" as a suspended floor, I don't feel with 8x18's that I need any additional buttkickers anymore. the uber low stuff and the midbass alike may not shake the floor, but it shakes me and the couch just fine...
post #1665 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I am surrounded by 3 walls of concrete, brick, and underground. Solid foundation below, and even though it never will be "As tactile" as a suspended floor, I don't feel with 8x18's that I need any additional buttkickers anymore. the uber low stuff and the midbass alike may not shake the floor, but it shakes me and the couch just fine...

I feel the exact same way. I sold my Ultra to a friend who has it placed on suspended floor, and by the time you get to the point of "pressurizing" the area, the floor feels like it's going to buckle. It honestly takes me out of the movie. It took a while for me to get used to a sub on riser, concrete floor setup; but I prefer this to the suspended floor design. At 6 drivers, I am well short of some of you crazies biggrin.gif, but I also sold my buttkicker setup as I just don't feel I'll need it anymore.
post #1666 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

I feel the exact same way. I sold my Ultra to a friend who has it placed on suspended floor, and by the time you get to the point of "pressurizing" the area, the floor feels like it's going to buckle. It honestly takes me out of the movie. It took a while for me to get used to a sub on riser, concrete floor setup; but I prefer this to the suspended floor design. At 6 drivers, I am well short of some of you crazies biggrin.gif, but I also sold my buttkicker setup as I just don't feel I'll need it anymore.

I've yet to experience uber bass on a suspended floor. What you described as "taking you out of the movie," seems like something I would love...lol

In fact, I'd say my feet (the floor) is the only area where I am not getting any kind of tactical sensation. To each their own though...

biggrin.gif

When Nick and Jacob came through to demo my Dual LMS-U's setup they asked if I had transducers hooked up to my seating. I had plenty of tactical feel back then, and it's already at least twice that now with my the SI's I currently have in place. This time next week I should have my nearfield subs at least functional. That should make a tremendous tactical impact for sure.

I wish I could have built a riser, but my current space will not accomodate one without it becoming a tripping hazard. Would have been fun though!
post #1667 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by djkest View Post

I've really wanted to do something like that with the granite tops. Mind sharing some details?

The only info I'd been able to find is that it would be about $100 for the stone, and then perhaps another $100 to have a "stoneworker" cut it to the exact size, edge it, and polish it. Does that sound right? How much of an overhang do you recommend, I was thinking about 3".

In that case, my "sub top" is 21" wide and 19" deep, so I would need like 26-27" wide and 24-25" deep.
I was able to get 3cm boneyard scraps (remnants) of "butterfly granite" from the biggest stone countertops/etc. company around here for $0.085/lb. Cutting/fabrication is extra, but for two ~20"x20" pieces they ended up charging me $140 which I feel is reasonable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

I had a minimum overhang of about 1/4" on the sides and rear, and up to 1.25" on the front, to match the extension of the surround. You see 3 cm granite in kitchens with several inches of unsupported overhang, so you can probably do as much as you want. Stone price will vary a lot depending on what you want - but $100 probably isn't too far off, assuming something like 4-4.5 ft^2. If you are lucky you can find something on a remnant rack that is too small to have much use for other purposes. Factor in about $8-15 per linear foot of edge profiling, depending on what you want. I don't know what the cutting will cost - I am lucky to be good friends with a waterjet shop.

This is what I did with my pair.
The top end of your pricing for the edge profiling is pretty much what my local company charged. I decided to go with exact measurements for mine, as I didn't feel the overhang worked in my particular situation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by a|F View Post

I use a granite wholesaler and they charge $35/ft for remnant pieces. That price includes cut and polish, but nothing fancy on the edges. My box tops are 23" x 23". The granite was cut to 25" x 26" so that I could play around a little with overhang, and it ended up costing $300. After seeing both 1" and 1.5", I definitely prefer less overhang and would try 1/2" if I could do it again. You could go probably go up to 6" overhang as long as no one is sitting on it. Not sure how that would look though.

I had extra floor-rug-pad laying around, and used it in between the granite and box. No complaints thus far. Here's an example:

http://www.amazon.com/Eco-Hold-Rug-Pad-Friendly/dp/B009CI5Y02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363965356&sr=8-1&keywords=floor+rug+pad
I wanted to attach mine with some artful bronze socket cap screws with integrated washer, but holes would have been another $175, or one hour of waterjet time. New solution: they'll rest on top with epoxied brackets to keep them from sliding around. Also, since my subs are dual-opposed, there are zero vibrations to worry about. These are for looks and driver protection.
post #1668 of 2212
I've finished my 3 cu ft sealed sub and was wiring my 15" SI D2 in series for a 4 ohm load on my amp, also at same time wired my 18" SI D2 for 4 ohm load.
(I just got my 4 cu ft flat pack so this weekend just starting assembly later today)

Possible issue:
I noticed the underside of the sub driver cone is covered with paper, for lack of a proper descriptive it simply feels like paper mache.

Question
What caught my attention is the 18" backside paper is very smooth and consistent, while the 15" backside felt wavy and possible some air bubbles even, is this normal?
Is there any reason to contact SI and ask them?

18" SI D2, pretty smooth and consistent.
photo%25202.jpg

15" SI D2,this picture does not capture it but there are distinct waves/squishy feel spots compared to the 18" driver.
photo%25204.jpg
post #1669 of 2212
every pic i have seen of the 15's looks like that. the cone is less smooth looking than the 18. doubt it makes any difference
post #1670 of 2212
I'll finish assy of the 15" sub then, for documentation I'll post on the HTS site also this finding at least, as 1 data point.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/60421-new-si-ht-woofer-specs-info-35.html#post603982
Edited by mtbdudex - 4/6/13 at 3:04pm
post #1671 of 2212
These subs are awesome. I constantly get told to turn them down, and I only have 1 dual opposed box. Love it. Budget price for excellent results.

Once I have my own house/treated room someday, I will have my own 8 sub setup like you crazy mofos.
post #1672 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

I've finished my 3 cu ft sealed sub and was wiring my 15" SI D2 in series for a 4 ohm load on my amp, also at same time wired my 18" SI D2 for 4 ohm load.
(I just got my 4 cu ft flat pack so this weekend just starting assembly later today)

Possible issue:
I noticed the underside of the sub driver cone is covered with paper, for lack of a proper descriptive it simply feels like paper mache.

Question
What caught my attention is the 18" backside paper is very smooth and consistent, while the 15" backside felt wavy and possible some air bubbles even, is this normal?
Is there any reason to contact SI and ask them?

I can confirm that the statement above is erroneous and a bit far fetched. Anyone who has purchased our subwoofers will stand by this statement as well because you eluding to the back of the cone feeling like "paper mache" is extremely far from reality.

The slurry mix used to make both sizes of cones is made/dipped by humans. There is some leniency in the amount of fibers passable for cone bodies. The two different cone bodies use the same mix of long and short fiber paper and carbon fiber strands but are dipped in two different vats. The temperature of the building and size of the mold/dip are key elements in the way the back of the cone appears to be. The cones are left to air dry on the back side, hence the appearance of the backside of the diaphragms. It is not an issue.

Our subwoofers use materials that are built using finer quality, and more durable, materials than other speakers costing 5x more than ours are priced at. If these/our products were being used in environments that ranged from -50 degrees Fahrenheit to +200 degrees Fahrenheit we would consider using a different material...but that is not the case.
post #1673 of 2212
I didn't read it as a harmful statement. Just a question wether it was normal or not.
post #1674 of 2212
Just for reference... we use the same composition / supplier cones for Sundown Audio. Unless you feel that your HT application is more strenuous than the following the "paper mache" cone will be just fine :

Sundown SA-15 doing 153.5 dB on the dash legal score !? - YouTube
* 7300 clamped watts burst; 153.5 dB on Sundown SA-15

Team Pure Pressure - Step Harris vs Team Nemesis - Jared SBN 2013 Bass Race 159.9 - YouTube
* Bass Race 159.9 bass race class; 4x Sundown Z v.3 15s vs 5x Sundown Z v.3 15s : SBN 2013

No cone body failures in any of these applications.

In short... the cones body material is strong and tested to withstand MUCH more strain than anything the HT line will ever face. So there is no need to worry about it smile.gif
Edited by sundownz - 4/8/13 at 5:48am
post #1675 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

I didn't read it as a harmful statement. Just a question wether it was normal or not.

Agreed, that's how I read it too.

BTW, I agree with others here that the SI 18 sounds incredible. I have been after massive headroom but in reality my biggest concern is sound quality and these drivers sound fantastic.
post #1676 of 2212
they do sound awesome. i have not done any kind of real review of them yet, but i will say im blown away by their sound quality and performance.
post #1677 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Agreed, that's how I read it too.

BTW, I agree with others here that the SI 18 sounds incredible. I have been after massive headroom but in reality my biggest concern is sound quality and these drivers sound fantastic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

they do sound awesome. i have not done any kind of real review of them yet, but i will say im blown away by their sound quality and performance.

I had a top tier sub in the Submersive HP which I had no intention of ever getting rid of, and I'm sure Carp felt the same way with his. DIY and these SI's intrigued me, and it was an interesting, frustrating, and great learning experience putting my first sub together (with a lot of help). I was very impressed with the results, enough so that I sold the SubM to another forum member to upgrade from a HSU and experience the SubM in all its glory.

It also gave me an even bigger appreciation of ID subs (especially Seaton). Mark went out of his way to help transfer the warranty, and sold a box hefty enough to handle the shipping. That is some outstanding customer service that I lose out on going the DIY route. I also lose out on the sleek look of the plate amp inside the sub, and DSP already tailored out of box. That's a lot to lose out on, so the SI's and my build needed to be damn good. It was, and I'm still not done tweaking it.

I think carp said it best awhile ago. Eventually, those of us in this long enough "evolve" into DIY. Its just fun, and the satisfaction you get of building a "Submersive like" sub of your own gives me a sense of accomplishment.. like "wow I made this". The SI subs had a large part in that, and I'm very happy with them.
post #1678 of 2212
(below is same post I just made in the HTS thread)
Nick and sundownz, as I stated in my post
Quote:
I'm no expert on using the pulp/paper to add rigidity to cone, but IMO
I was questioning what I visually observed as differences between 2 very similair subwoofers from SI.
Honestly if I had just the 15" or the 18" I never would have noticed differences, but since I did and me being the inquisitive type.....I asked what can be considered fair questions from both visual observations and simple hand inspections.
(and being cautious from my day job experiences)

My raised concerns have been 100% answered, thank you both, and I look forward to using my 15" and 18" SI D2 drivers in my HT application.
Going Multi-sub: adding DIY 18"+15" sub to 4x15" IB line array;Both via DIY Sound Group Flatpack
post #1679 of 2212
Nick and sundownz;
I bought from PE their Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 5 lb. Bag, recommended usage is 1/2 lb fill per 1 cu ft.
I followed that and have 2 lbs of fill in my 4 cu ft box, I fluffed it up.

Q:
Do I need to put a breathable protective net between the polyfill and the sub driver or there is no concern for the polyfill fibers contacting the 18" and 15" SI D2 driver?
Sub1b.JPG

I ask because in this thread he did cover the fill with thin netting, from http://www.avsforum.com/t/1415823/2-dayton-titanic-mk-iii-15s-or-1-tc-sounds-lms-r-15/90#post_22583001

Edited by mtbdudex - 4/18/13 at 10:28am
post #1680 of 2212
No you don't have to but it doesn't hurt either. If it worrys you, next time buy cheap wallmart pillows and just stuff the entire pillow in there, then you would have to worry.
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