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Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer - Page 59

post #1741 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avgass View Post

...Now to come up with box plans, get some veneer ply and figure out how on earth I'm gonna fit these subs into our living room. Wife not happy.

Ditto. Except my wife doesn't know yet! eek.gif

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1742 of 2212
I just got an email that my quad 18's were just delivered!! biggrin.gif
post #1743 of 2212
congrats. now time dilation begins.

the next couple hours will seem like days.

by the book. :-)
post #1744 of 2212
Yay! More subwoofer builds. smile.gif
post #1745 of 2212
Great seeing more new SI builds about to pop up. I love mine.
post #1746 of 2212
On a side note. What do you think the minimum amount of room would be between the rear vent and the back of cab. I'm trying to stuff a couple more of these behind the rear row and don't want to move it forward any more than I have to.
post #1747 of 2212
Id give at least 2-3 inches personally. If you are exclusively movie viewing and not pumping heavy dub or rap constantly through them, you might be safe with less, but not much less than 2 inches safely.
post #1748 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Id give at least 2-3 inches personally. If you are exclusively movie viewing and not pumping heavy dub or rap constantly through them, you might be safe with less, but not much less than 2 inches safely.

i would think 2" would be the least, as well
post #1749 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

On a side note. What do you think the minimum amount of room would be between the rear vent and the back of cab. I'm trying to stuff a couple more of these behind the rear row and don't want to move it forward any more than I have to.

Dude, awesome! Running a few nearfield takes it up two notches. Prob the most significant upgrade one could make in the bass department.

Sounds fun!
post #1750 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

Dude, awesome! Running a few nearfield takes it up two notches. Prob the most significant upgrade one could make in the bass department.

Sounds fun!

I'm thinking it might be a nice improvement. I probably should have done 4 in the front and 2 in the back to begin with instead of the 6 up front. That would have made the most sense and saved the most money. As it is, I don't feel like tearing apart freshly built cabs up front, so here we go again. cool.gif

I don't need more bass, but better bass. I have a dip at 30hz at the MLP. I could eq it out and be happy, but unfortunately the rear seats just happen to have a big peak (10db more) at the same frequency. If I tailor to the front row, the back row will be blasted out.

The other option is to bass trap the hell out of the back wall, but that doesn't sound nearly as fun as adding more subs. biggrin.gif
post #1751 of 2212
Damn you guys, now you have me thinking of experimenting with nearfield again. I really like Andrew's riser, the thought just hit me I could set up 2 rows. My love seat in front with the sweet spot seat on the left side of it as it faces the tv, that way a sub could fit on each side acting as end tables and then the couch for the 2nd row and same thing, a sub on each side as end tables.

Hmmm one of these days when I get really bored I may have to do a trial run just to see how the bass is without building the riser to make sure it works first.
post #1752 of 2212
Yeah. Me too. Luckily I was able to snatch up an extra pair of RLp18's the other week so I'll give the nearfield system a try too. smile.gif
post #1753 of 2212
Nice come up Scott! I know you've been on the hunt for those for a min.
post #1754 of 2212
I just received my second pair of D4s, though I still haven't built the first pair. A CV-5000 arrived this week, too. That thing is a monster! I'm thinking a quad of 13-16 cubic foot sonotubes tuned to 15hz, two in front behind an acoustically transparent screen and two on the sides. I'd go a bit bigger, but I don't want the ones that will be visible to be too big. I suppose they wouldn't all have to be the same size.... Anyway, it's nice to know that with the CV-5000 I'll have the capacity to power up to four more if the need should arise. tongue.gif

I want to get going on this project, but I also just started framing the basement. What to do?! biggrin.gif
post #1755 of 2212
You're gonna have lots of firepower on tap. The amp will be coastin and the drivers in that large of an enclosure should really shake things up. I've got 8 sealed and tested out war of the worlds and FOTP, and man was it awesome with no signs of distress.
post #1756 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by trancemitr View Post

I just received my second pair of D4s, though I still haven't built the first pair. A CV-5000 arrived this week, too. That thing is a monster! I'm thinking a quad of 13-16 cubic foot sonotubes tuned to 15hz, two in front behind an acoustically transparent screen and two on the sides. I'd go a bit bigger, but I don't want the ones that will be visible to be too big. I suppose they wouldn't all have to be the same size.... Anyway, it's nice to know that with the CV-5000 I'll have the capacity to power up to four more if the need should arise. tongue.gif

I want to get going on this project, but I also just started framing the basement. What to do?! biggrin.gif

Get the false wall framed in first of course! smile.gif
post #1757 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Damn you guys, now you have me thinking of experimenting with nearfield again. I really like Andrew's riser, the thought just hit me I could set up 2 rows. My love seat in front with the sweet spot seat on the left side of it as it faces the tv, that way a sub could fit on each side acting as end tables and then the couch for the 2nd row and same thing, a sub on each side as end tables.

Hmmm one of these days when I get really bored I may have to do a trial run just to see how the bass is without building the riser to make sure it works first.

Do it!! (both the nearfield experiment and the riser) I'm still playing with placement, but right now I've got the subs flanking the rows from all angles and it sounds quite balanced. We'll see what omnimic says tomorrow morning. tongue.gif
post #1758 of 2212
I've got a further question about going with sonotubes. Do I need to line the inside with batting or something? If so, do I need to compensate for lost enclosure volume by adding to the tube's height?

Thanks.
post #1759 of 2212
large enclosures can create internal standing waves that are close enough to the passband to matter.

just plopping several wal-mart pillows into the sub when you are done is enough to ameliorate them.

no additional volume calculations are required.
post #1760 of 2212
post #1761 of 2212
LTD02, thanks for the info. I can certainly handle some cheap pillows.
post #1762 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Damn you guys, now you have me thinking of experimenting with nearfield again.

Cool

Near-field subwoofing can be fantastic, but really takes some work to blend well with the mains. I've been experimenting w/nearfield placement ever since my dual Velodyne days, and I really struggled to make it a positive overall experience, rather than simply a tactile/raw SPL thing. Back then, I found L-to-R balance was really fundamental, otherwise I could sense the placement imbalance.

I've since recreated those initial experiments more recently, and again have really struggled to make it ideally transparent and well blended with the mains. I did eventually find an ideal placement, flanking my primary LP, and rearward diagonally off my position by about 4 feet. With very exhaustive experiments w/low passing and time alignment, and careful use of acoustic treatment panels filtering the localization energy that the EQ'ing and LP doesn't catch.

I haven't really fully determined the ins and outs of this energy absorption ... treatment panel approach, but it's worthy of more examination for sure. It would appear as if utilizing OC703 rigid (or equiv) to attenuate out of band/aberrant output, may be another tool in the arsenal. By addressing the issue both electronically (and in this case mechanically), by knocking down any spurious upper range stuff, the psycho-acoustic illusion that the bass is of entirely integrated within the mains image is heightened. Placing the panels right up by the drivers is what I've explored, much more to learn, for sure.

Anyway, nearfield advantages are multi-fold and not limited to;
1.) FR smoothness
2.) Tactile immediacy
3.) Typically less modal excitation/tighter decay time*
4.) Lower operating level due to proximity
----a.) Distortion lowering
----b.) Less room excitation noise
----c.) Minimizing LF egress and bothering adjacent others/neighbors

* I'd suspect in most enthusiast systems, this issue is already lessened with EQ'ing.


Nearfield can be fantastic, however there is downsides, especially with uniformity across multiple seats, rows, and relative phase integrity w/mains in the upper range of the sub's bandwidth. That's tricky stuff for sure, ... those varying distances and maintain phase accuracy and impact in the top octave of the sub's coverage.


Good thread here, I'd not stopped in here for quite some time.
post #1763 of 2212
This thread really sucks, now I have to offload my Hsu 15H and do dual 18s! I have been intrigued by DYI, I have OK woodworking skills, time to take the plunge. I read this entire thread and got the bug. My room really needs at least two subs to smooth the response.
Edited by RickD1225 - 6/16/13 at 5:07pm
post #1764 of 2212
I've been trying to figure out what direction to take with subs since I came to the conclusion I need two to smooth out a room mode at 19Hz. After reading all of the posts in this thread, I have become convinced/brainwashed into thinking that DIY is the way to go here. The table saw was an unfortunate casualty of the series of moves which led to the house with the home theater so box building is not as easy as it once was. It seems like Erich's 4 cu ft flat pack would match up rather nicely with an 18" SI driver though.

So I am thinking of ordering 4 18" drivers and two flat packs. This would let me quickly build up two single 18" subs that I could place on either end of the room to start. While enjoying that and running some sub placement experiments, I could use the other two drivers to play around with my own design and, when successful, have two drivers on each end of the room. I was thinking that the 4 ohm version might work well since I could...

(1) Wire both coils in series to have two individual 8 ohm subs to start.
(2) Wire the two 8 ohm drivers in parallel to have a 4 ohm, 2 driver sub.
(3) Eventually put 4 drivers at each end of the room with the coils wired in parallel (to 2 ohms) and the drivers in series, giving 2 channels each of 4 ohms.

A decent amp that could do 4kW into 4ohms bridged and 800W or so into 8 ohms would then handle any of these options (though if I got to four drivers on each side I'd have to add another amp). Throw in a little polyfill and some EQ/high pass filtering from my Behringer DCX2496 and I should be set.

Seems way too easy. What I am missing here? Or is my first step down the slippery slope really just that simple?
post #1765 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by ETFE View Post


Seems way too easy. What I am missing here? Or is my first step down the slippery slope really just that simple?

Yes. It's the addicting part that's the bit*h. biggrin.gif
post #1766 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by ETFE View Post

I've been trying to figure out what direction to take with subs since I came to the conclusion I need two to smooth out a room mode at 19Hz. After reading all of the posts in this thread, I have become convinced/brainwashed into thinking that DIY is the way to go here. The table saw was an unfortunate casualty of the series of moves which led to the house with the home theater so box building is not as easy as it once was. It seems like Erich's 4 cu ft flat pack would match up rather nicely with an 18" SI driver though.

So I am thinking of ordering 4 18" drivers and two flat packs. This would let me quickly build up two single 18" subs that I could place on either end of the room to start. While enjoying that and running some sub placement experiments, I could use the other two drivers to play around with my own design and, when successful, have two drivers on each end of the room. I was thinking that the 4 ohm version might work well since I could...

(1) Wire both coils in series to have two individual 8 ohm subs to start.
(2) Wire the two 8 ohm drivers in parallel to have a 4 ohm, 2 driver sub.
(3) Eventually put 4 drivers at each end of the room with the coils wired in parallel (to 2 ohms) and the drivers in series, giving 2 channels each of 4 ohms.

A decent amp that could do 4kW into 4ohms bridged and 800W or so into 8 ohms would then handle any of these options (though if I got to four drivers on each side I'd have to add another amp). Throw in a little polyfill and some EQ/high pass filtering from my Behringer DCX2496 and I should be set.

Seems way too easy. What I am missing here? Or is my first step down the slippery slope really just that simple?

As far as EQing goes, you probably wont need a HP and if you did, the DCX is tricky to really get one below 20hz. Right now I am currently running a 6dB L/T on my 8, and then eqing down the upper range to get that nice extension down low. works like a charm biggrin.gif
post #1767 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

As far as EQing goes, you probably wont need a HP and if you did, the DCX is tricky to really get one below 20hz. Right now I am currently running a 6dB L/T on my 8, and then eqing down the upper range to get that nice extension down low. works like a charm biggrin.gif

I actually enjoy frequency responses and filter design (almost as much as building things and tactile bass in movies...) so I don't mind the fact that you have to jump through a few hoops on the DCX to do this. Your point about it being unnecessary is well taken, though. It sounds like you've got a great solution to the EQ!
post #1768 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Yes. It's the addicting part that's the bit*h. biggrin.gif

As I told my wife, we both knew I'd end up here eventually, this just removes ambiguity about the day it starts...
post #1769 of 2212
"Seems way too easy. What I am missing here? Or is my first step down the slippery slope really just that simple?"

just a heads-up.

it would be useful to have some idea of which amp you want to go with
before selecting which impedance combo.

the inuke6000, for example, can't run in 4 ohm bridged, but the cv5000 can.

if you are shooting for super sub bass, that pulls max current through a sealed sub
and that is what makes amps least happy.

so if that is the goal, go a little big on the amps, such as one channel of an inuke6000 per driver.
post #1770 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post


just a heads-up.

it would be useful to have some idea of which amp you want to go with
before selecting which impedance combo.

Good call. I'll give some more thought to the amp and go from there with the impedance choice.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post


so if that is the goal, go a little big on the amps, such as one channel of an inuke6000 per driver.

So I understand this point about sizing, do you mean this would be sized correctly for 4 drivers (one 2 ohm load on each of the four channels at 1500W) or two drivers (3000W on each of two channels)?

Thanks for the help!
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