or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer - Page 62

post #1831 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrodynamic View Post

We have been moving our facility an hour away from our previous location for the past week. We have also had email issues and of course phone problems. I do not respond to PM's hardly at all - everything needs to be emailed so it can be kept track of. Other than international shipping quotes (I must call FedEx International to obtain those) all other emails have been responded to.


Hi Electrodynamic,

do you have any Europe SI distributer where we Europeans can buy SI drivers!

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #1832 of 2212
And mine for 4x SI HT18 to Sweden rolleyes.gif
post #1833 of 2212
If there's a large demand in EU for the drivers someone should organize a group buy and order like 100 drivers, the shipping across the ocean would be really reasonable for bulk.
post #1834 of 2212
Hey guys any help would be great. I bought 2 18s 4ohm and put them in a box i made, after bracing and everything its around 11.2 cu ft seald. Im getting ready to build another box and buy 2 more 18s, my question is the box 2 big for seald, i cant figure the winisd out for nothing (im to dumb). My thoughts r if there to big i could make them ported if that would help.

That was my first diy so far and now im addicted. And the amp im running now is the xls2500 crown thats gonna go to 4 18s in 4ohms


I hope sum one can help me out with sum info if not ill keep checkn the internet. Thanks
post #1835 of 2212
I think the SI18s are recommend by SI for use in 4-6 cu ft sealed boxes, with 6 cu ft being about right for a Qtc of 0.707, the target you are supposed to aim for for the 'best out of the box, no EQ' sound.

Bigger boxes require less power so the Crown XLS2500, assuming it puts out 2500wRMS, should be about right for 4 SI18s in larger sealed boxes (2500/4 = 625wRMS each). They are rated at 600wRMS and have relatively soft suspension so are easy to exceed XMax and perhaps even bottom them out in a larger or ported box with much more power than that, therefore you don't want too much power for them.

I haven't got WinISD on this computer so can't graph them, but my gut feeling is that all should be fine smile.gif
post #1836 of 2212
Thanks alot MemX

If i wouldnt of askd id been having that what if in the back of my head the whole time lol.

So far im impressed with sealed 18s they sound a little different from my psa but i got them sounding really close now after adjusting and listening. (My first sealed sub) well besides subs in towers but that doesnt count.
post #1837 of 2212
4 ohms bridged will get you 2400 watts spec off that amp. if you did 2 ohm stereo then you could get roughly 1500 watts per channel spec. Your boxes are fine for either application, just make sure you optimize the wiring to get the most out of the amp biggrin.gif
post #1838 of 2212
Can the crown handle 2 ohms?

Nvr mind jus checkd there site. It says 1200 watts dual 2 ohm. What would be better bridged 4 ohm 2400 watts r dual 2ohm?
Edited by nicker1987 - 8/15/13 at 11:46am
post #1839 of 2212
you have dual 4 ohm subs? and will end up with 4 total?
post #1840 of 2212
Yup 4 4ohm total. For now anyways
post #1841 of 2212
You can either do option 2 here and run 4 ohm stereo:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=2&I=42#results

Or option 3 here and run it 8 ohm bridged:

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=4&I=42#results

Not going to everything out of the amp this way, but should still do quite well. If it isn't enough you could double up on the amps and have a decent amount of headroom at that point.
post #1842 of 2212
Thanks for the help.

So u dont recommend running all four in series and bridged at the amp. Sorry for all the questions im new to this kind of stuff
Edited by nicker1987 - 8/19/13 at 3:17pm
post #1843 of 2212
Well that is either 775x2 4 ohm stereo or 1550x1 8 ohm mono, so you are leaving a little on the table. At that point you are only giving each sub 387.5 watts each and they could definitely use more than that. Double that safely. Get another amp and run 4 ohm bridged a sub on each amp smile.gif More power than you need at that point!
post #1844 of 2212
Ok thanks again
post #1845 of 2212
I have an old AVR which the lowest speaker crossover is only 100Hz (-12dB per octave). I also have an FMOD 50Hz low pass device (also -12dB per octave).
I'm planning to hook them up...so the signal chain will be like:
Player > AVR (100Hz low pass) > FMOD (50Hz low pass) > Amp > Sub.

I just wanna know how the frequency response curve of the output signal will look like. Do you guys know if there's any freeware program or interactive website that allow me to simulate this audio signal graph?
post #1846 of 2212
Doubling up on low passes will do some quirky things, especially at different freqs. Why might I ask are you planning on doing it this way?
post #1847 of 2212
Thanks to Nick at SI for coming back with a shipping quote smile.gif

Now to work out my finances and decide 2 or 4... lol
post #1848 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Doubling up on low passes will do some quirky things, especially at different freqs. Why might I ask are you planning on doing it this way?
You mean weird bumps and dips at certain frequency? This affect the frequencies that are >50Hz or <50Hz? Have you experimented that "quirky things" before?

I'm planning to do this because I just want the subwoofer to play below 50Hz...hence the addon for FMOD 50Hz low pass.
post #1849 of 2212
Well essentially filters are predicable. You run a Linkwitz 12dB 2nd order LP and you get a 12dB/octave rolloff, a 4th order 24dB Linkwitz and 24dB/octave rolloff. In your case you are stacking filters at different frequencies, and you can't really be certain what order, or what type of filter they are to begin with. I am guessin you can't defeat the 100hz filter at all?

Also, the filters will sum, so you could be getting a lot more rolloff that is needed, and/or wanted.
post #1850 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Well essentially filters are predicable. You run a Linkwitz 12dB 2nd order LP and you get a 12dB/octave rolloff, a 4th order 24dB Linkwitz and 24dB/octave rolloff. In your case you are stacking filters at different frequencies, and you can't really be certain what order, or what type of filter they are to begin with. I am guessin you can't defeat the 100hz filter at all?

Also, the filters will sum, so you could be getting a lot more rolloff that is needed, and/or wanted.
Each of the filters offer -12dB/octave and should be using the standard Linkwitz.
The rolloff at 50Hz will be much steeper due to the usage of 2 (100&50) filters? If yes, that's good...cos that's what I want.
I just worried about some irregular extreme bumps and dips. Will there be any?
post #1851 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post

Each of the filters offer -12dB/octave and should be using the standard Linkwitz.
The rolloff at 50Hz will be much steeper due to the usage of 2 (100&50) filters? If yes, that's good...cos that's what I want.
I just worried about some irregular extreme bumps and dips. Will there be any?

See there still could be using both. Traditionally you want the same filter for your subs as you use on your mains. Reason being is they then blend seamlessly and create a flat response. Take a look at this post as an example:



That is with a properly blended XO region. Now in your case, you are going to have flat response to a little before 50hz where the first filter begins to drop off at 12dB/ oct. Predictable. then as you yreach 100hz, all of a sudden the second filter is going to dump in and now your are going to be dropping at 24dB per octave which is different, and could potentially be destructive to blending well with your mains. It can't be said one way or another really if what you are planning on doing will work, so my best suggestion really is if you don't have the ability to measure, then try each filter on and off and see what works best.
post #1852 of 2212
Can I just check, what's the minimum recommended distance between the back of the magnets of a SI18 and the back wall of a box?

I'm aware you need room to allow air to the centre of the coils so they can be cooled, but would an inch or so be enough??


Can you reduce that minimum distance if you are mounting them magnets-out, a la push pull design?


Thanks in advance! smile.gif
post #1853 of 2212
I just ordered a pair of 15d4 to put in a pair of tapped horns.... I should have over 130dbs from 14hz up at the listening position smile.gif

What kind of lead time can I expect? I'm going on vacation next week and don't want these sitting on my porch for a week :/
post #1854 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stumbo View Post

I just ordered a pair of 15d4 to put in a pair of tapped horns.... I should have over 130dbs from 14hz up at the listening position smile.gif

What kind of lead time can I expect? I'm going on vacation next week and don't want these sitting on my porch for a week :/

Sweet!

I would email Nick @ SI and let them know if you have special shipping instructions. I had a similar issue when I ordered my set. I was in Vegas for a few days and it would have been delivered but there was some confusion (on my part) with the order and it had got delayed which was a blessing in disguise for me at that time. tongue.gif So yeah, let them know if you're going to not be home and they will have it delivered when you are home.
post #1855 of 2212
Im still working my way through this thread. A lot of awesome builds in here you guys.

Ive seen some dual opposed sonotubes and they have my attention.

Is it as simple as doubling up the ft3 and putting a driver in the top and a driver in the bottom?

That would be a 3 ft high x 2ft diameter tube for 2 18" drivers (9.4 ft3 before caps and drivers)

I read of one member who thought the sonotube material was not strong enough. Yet I see others who are using it.
post #1856 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post


Is it as simple as doubling up the ft3 and putting a driver in the top and a driver in the bottom?

Yup. smile.gif
post #1857 of 2212
Oh man..... This makes six 18s very doable. Very......

What about the strength of the sonotube?
post #1858 of 2212
The strength of the sonotube will be fine. JUST make sure to have plenty of baffle edge glued to the inside of the sonotube. SO maybe 1" or bigger for the inside part of the sonotube and then another 3/4" for the end cap of the baffle. Either way you should be fine in regards to the strength of the sonotube.
post #1859 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

Im still working my way through this thread. A lot of awesome builds in here you guys.

Ive seen some dual opposed sonotubes and they have my attention.

Is it as simple as doubling up the ft3 and putting a driver in the top and a driver in the bottom?

That would be a 3 ft high x 2ft diameter tube for 2 18" drivers (9.4 ft3 before caps and drivers)

I read of one member who thought the sonotube material was not strong enough. Yet I see others who are using it.

Whoever was talking about strength of sono tube was dead wrong. essentially they are stronger than any square box could ever be. Understanding that the energy/force of the driver leaves the driver equally in all directions, the strength of the "round" design is basically infinitely strong. Or infinity times infinity as the little kids deduced in the AT&T commercial. tongue.gif

Take a look at my avatar pic. Those are two approx. 8.5 cuft sono's with quad SI 18's. the baffles are double 3/4" ply with the "inside" baffle fitting right inside the sonotube and the second "outside" baffle is about 27" diameter. I use PL premium and loaded the baffle FULL of that and then fitted the sono right onto it, then used about a dozen screws around the outside of the sono through into the inside baffle to seat and seal it up. Works like a charm. about half a pound of polyfill per cuft and you are cookin' with hot sauce biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
post #1860 of 2212
Beast do you have a build thread for your sonotubes. I'm curious how you made the end caps and the feet?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs

Gear mentioned in this thread:

AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer