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Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer - Page 69

post #2041 of 2212
Your width would be fine. Are you using plywood? AND how long are your screws?

Everyone says different things in regards to how close you can mount the woofer to an endcap or other. The dust cap is not going to hit anything before the woofer hits Mech damage. If your putting a woofer's magnet near the dustcap then 55mm is as close as I would want to go. BUT others say differently.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #2042 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

What is the closest I can mount these to a surface, in a down firing position?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Electrodynamic View Post

From the edge of the surround I would allow at least 1.5" (38.1mm). Preferably more if you can afford it.

For your sono's pdx, you will want to give them more than 3 inches at worst, preferably 4-5 inches. The driver will react with the end-cap and the result would make it appear more "Loaded" than a traditional front firing box.
post #2043 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Your width would be fine. Are you using plywood? AND how long are your screws?

Everyone says different things in regards to how close you can mount the woofer to an endcap or other. The dust cap is not going to hit anything before the woofer hits Mech damage. If your putting a woofer's magnet near the dustcap then 55mm is as close as I would want to go. BUT others say differently.
TBH I have no idea on the screws - I won't be building the box, I have no time/skills/tools... lol tongue.gif

I was thinking about some of the hex screw-in threaded insert things that go into the box, so you can bolt into them:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271040903684
"M6 x 25mm Hex Drive Screw-In Threaded Insert For Wood / Chipboard [Type D] (20)"

I think that would be correct? Would M6 bolts be too big for the holes in the driver??


If I can't do that then I'm not sure what to do - I fear that 19.5" wide with 17.5" mounting holes may mean some screws are too close to the vertical walls supporting the horizontal mounting face, and may either not bite or just chew it up! I think I'm going to have to either use short 1" screws on the edge ones (so they bite into the 1" MDF faceplate but not the next 1" sub-plate) or tweak my box design a bit...



Thanks for the recommendation on the distances smile.gif

If someone would be kind enough to measure me the distance I need, that would be really helpful and let me check how close I am! smile.gif




Pleeeeeeeease??? redface.gif lol

Thank you in advance! smile.gif
post #2044 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemX View Post

TBH I have no idea on the screws - I won't be building the box, I have no time/skills/tools... lol tongue.gif

I was thinking about some of the hex screw-in threaded insert things that go into the box, so you can bolt into them:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271040903684
"M6 x 25mm Hex Drive Screw-In Threaded Insert For Wood / Chipboard [Type D] (20)"

I think that would be correct? Would M6 bolts be too big for the holes in the driver??


If I can't do that then I'm not sure what to do - I fear that 19.5" wide with 17.5" mounting holes may mean some screws are too close to the vertical walls supporting the horizontal mounting face, and may either not bite or just chew it up! I think I'm going to have to either use short 1" screws on the edge ones (so they bite into the 1" MDF faceplate but not the next 1" sub-plate) or tweak my box design a bit...



Thanks for the recommendation on the distances smile.gif

If someone would be kind enough to measure me the distance I need, that would be really helpful and let me check how close I am! smile.gif




Pleeeeeeeease??? redface.gif lol

Thank you in advance! smile.gif

I'll try and measure the one d4 I have out of the box when I come home for lunch in the next hour.
post #2045 of 2212
Looking from the side and using a tape measure, I get ~3 3/8" From dust cap to the top of the surround.
post #2046 of 2212
I might be able to add a 3rd 18" D4 to my room. Any chance the EP4000 can handle that load (all 3)? I don't listen at reference often. It's more for room smoothing than anything.
post #2047 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post


For your sono's pdx, you will want to give them more than 3 inches at worst, preferably 4-5 inches. The driver will react with the end-cap and the result would make it appear more "Loaded" than a traditional front firing box.

Ended up with 4.25" . Not sure if it matters or not, but mine will be firing into the carpet.
post #2048 of 2212
Mem-X - Sorry man... I guess I had no idea what you were asking. I've six of these laying right next to several straight edges and three tape measures for a week! tongue.gif

Here's a couple pics- I get 3 9/16ths to 3 5/8ths. The reason for the variance is my tape has a 1/6th worth of play in the tip. All my straight edges with rulers on them are 48" and I didn't have a helper.


post #2049 of 2212
ahhh geeze, those photos look like crap. You'll have to take my word for it. I got down to ground level, back breaking ground level, and eyed it. tongue.gif
post #2050 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

Looking from the side and using a tape measure, I get ~3 3/8" From dust cap to the top of the surround.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

Mem-X - Sorry man... I guess I had no idea what you were asking. I've six of these laying right next to several straight edges and three tape measures for a week! tongue.gif

Here's a couple pics- I get 3 9/16ths to 3 5/8ths. The reason for the variance is my tape has a 1/6th worth of play in the tip. All my straight edges with rulers on them are 48" and I didn't have a helper.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

ahhh geeze, those photos look like crap. You'll have to take my word for it. I got down to ground level, back breaking ground level, and eyed it. tongue.gif
Thank you so much, gents, it is much appreciated! smile.gif

Looks like 3.5" or so is about right!

That's really helpful - I should have plenty of clearance smile.gif
post #2051 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by MemX View Post



Thank you so much, gents, it is much appreciated! smile.gif

Looks like 3.5" or so is about right!

That's really helpful - I should have plenty of clearance smile.gif

Woops. Forgot to post.

I measured a 3 3/8" also but I didn't have a straight edge on hand. :/ So I'd give a 1/8" margin of error to that. tongue.gif
post #2052 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

Woops. Forgot to post.

I measured a 3 3/8" also but I didn't have a straight edge on hand. :/ So I'd give a 1/8" margin of error to that. tongue.gif
lol biggrin.gif

No worries, very kind of you and the other guys to check! smile.gif
post #2053 of 2212
For speaker stuffing I bought couple of Walmart pillows. Do I need to open the pillows & use the polyfill loosely or can I just stuff the entire pillow with its cloth cover in the back of the cab behind the braces?
post #2054 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinodk View Post

For speaker stuffing I bought couple of Walmart pillows. Do I need to open the pillows & use the polyfill loosely or can I just stuff the entire pillow with its cloth cover in the back of the cab behind the braces?

I would open the pillows and fluff it up. Others may say it doesn't matter, and it may not. Just the way I would prefer to do it myself.
post #2055 of 2212
I just found that Muscians Friend is having a Columbus day sale. I just picked up a Behringer EPX4000 for $340.00 delivered (15% off). Runs through tomorrow.
post #2056 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickD1225 View Post

I just found that Muscians Friend is having a Columbus day sale. I just picked up a Behringer EPX4000 for $340.00 delivered (15% off). Runs through tomorrow.



Fyi, to add to that, if you call and talk to sales ask what the best price they will give you is. I did on a Peavy and they knocked 50 bucks off.
post #2057 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

Fyi, to add to that, if you call and talk to sales ask what the best price they will give you is. I did on a Peavy and they knocked 50 bucks off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickD1225 View Post

I just found that Muscians Friend is having a Columbus day sale. I just picked up a Behringer EPX4000 for $340.00 delivered (15% off). Runs through tomorrow.

Cool! my left side is out.. don't know if I should fix or just buy even though it's not in use now.
post #2058 of 2212
Talking with the rep at Musicians Friend about the amp, I was tempted to buy two since I think that I am ultimately going to build 4 subs and I would rather run them at 4 ohms per channel. I've got two SI 18D2s now and want to check how two will do in my room, but I think 4 is going to be the ticket,though. When I asked how long the sale was running (just to tomorrow) she said if I needed a second amp in the near future just to call in and discuss the price I paid during the sale and they would likely match it for a future purchase. Really helpful young lady I talked with.
post #2059 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinodk View Post

For speaker stuffing I bought couple of Walmart pillows. Do I need to open the pillows & use the polyfill loosely or can I just stuff the entire pillow with its cloth cover in the back of the cab behind the braces?

Don't open it up. The cloth cover makes it easy to stuff the pillow around bracing or staple in place such that it isn't right up against the magnet blocking airflow out of the vent.
post #2060 of 2212
Thanks. Just wanted to be sure that stuffing the pillow in the back of the cab behind braces with the cloth cover intact will not cause any overdamping issues & reduce the effective volume.
post #2061 of 2212
The cloth cover is not an issue. Just don't compress the pillow all into one corner.
post #2062 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

No siilcone if you ever want to pull it from the box!!! I wouldn't suggest that ever. If you want extra protection from air leaks, just add some gasket tape along with the rubber ring.

Tonight I am finishing up my last three drivers and, since they are countersunk, did not use a big ol' fat bead of silicone around the perimeter of the driver.

I used some gasket tape and the factory gasket ring. I started having problems with air leaks around a driver. While investigating I realized a couple of my screw heads had gone right through the basket. I've always used 8 gauge 1" - 1 1/4" coarse thread screws and never had this problem. I don't know, maybe I haven't screwed in enough woofers. Whatever.......

I thought I should throw it out there for others to be aware.

I've since switched to a 1" medium thread screw with a wider head that doesn't grab as well. Example it won't bite enough to work its way through the gasket hole. But if you lift the gasket up it bites plenty.

I find it very odd that the gasket holes are industry standard, yet the basket holes are larger. I'm not even sure if coarse thread with the correct size head would make it through the gasket without stripping out first. Whether drilling into the wood or inserts.

FWIW I know these baskets are used for many drivers. And I'm pretty sure SI didn't go boring out the mounting holes. haha.

Now.... back to chase a stupid air leak. I miss my silicone. tongue.gif
post #2063 of 2212
I am also looking for right size screws for drivers. Curious as to what size screws others have used so that the screw head fits through gasket hole but does not slip through the basket hole. I am planning to use size 10 head 1-1/4" brass screws but seems like I might have to force the size 10 head through the gasket hole.
post #2064 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

Tonight I am finishing up my last three drivers and, since they are countersunk, did not use a big ol' fat bead of silicone around the perimeter of the driver.

I used some gasket tape and the factory gasket ring. I started having problems with air leaks around a driver. While investigating I realized a couple of my screw heads had gone right through the basket. I've always used 8 gauge 1" - 1 1/4" coarse thread screws and never had this problem. I don't know, maybe I haven't screwed in enough woofers. Whatever.......

I thought I should throw it out there for others to be aware.

I've since switched to a 1" medium thread screw with a wider head that doesn't grab as well. Example it won't bite enough to work its way through the gasket hole. But if you lift the gasket up it bites plenty.

I find it very odd that the gasket holes are industry standard, yet the basket holes are larger. I'm not even sure if coarse thread with the correct size head would make it through the gasket without stripping out first. Whether drilling into the wood or inserts.

FWIW I know these baskets are used for many drivers. And I'm pretty sure SI didn't go boring out the mounting holes. haha.

Now.... back to chase a stupid air leak. I miss my silicone. tongue.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinodk View Post

I am also looking for right size screws for drivers. Curious as to what size screws others have used so that the screw head fits through gasket hole but does not slip through the basket hole. I am planning to use size 10 head 1-1/4" brass screws but seems like I might have to force the size 10 head through the gasket hole.

medium thread (or wood thread) pan head screws work wonders my man smile.gif they end up squeezing through the gasket as you clamp them down and have plenty of bite for the wood.
post #2065 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post


medium thread (or wood thread) pan head screws work wonders my man smile.gif they end up squeezing through the gasket as you clamp them down and have plenty of bite for the wood.

The silver screw is the one I ended up using. Those do not suck through the gasket. I had to lift it up. It's what I had on hand. Like I said, I've always just used coarse thread 8 gauge drywall screws. They bit very good. Guess next time I should look for some real wood screws....tongue.gif

Also, FWIW, the rubber gasket did not seal for me even using a strip of compression type weather stripping. I had to break out some stuff I had on the shelf for years. Worked real well!



post #2066 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

The silver screw is the one I ended up using. Those do not suck through the gasket. I had to lift it up. It's what I had on hand. Like I said, I've always just used coarse thread 8 gauge drywall screws. They bit very good. Guess next time I should look for some real wood screws....tongue.gif

Also, FWIW, the rubber gasket did not seal for me even using a strip of compression type weather stripping. I had to break out some stuff I had on the shelf for years. Worked real well!




Would yuh look at that perfect fit! wink.gif
post #2067 of 2212
Thanks, Steve.

Not bad for the first time with a router and circle jig huh?? cool.gif
post #2068 of 2212
Gunna be wheeling these guys all over the place or something? Haha! Looking good dude.
post #2069 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Gunna be wheeling these guys all over the place or something? Haha! Looking good dude.

lol.... no. But after screwing around with the dual cab PSA subs I want no part in lifting subs in the process of getting the best FR.
post #2070 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post

The silver screw is the one I ended up using. Those do not suck through the gasket. I had to lift it up. It's what I had on hand. Like I said, I've always just used coarse thread 8 gauge drywall screws. They bit very good. Guess next time I should look for some real wood screws....tongue.gif

Also, FWIW, the rubber gasket did not seal for me even using a strip of compression type weather stripping. I had to break out some stuff I had on the shelf for years. Worked real well!


Thanks for the screw recommendations, chaps smile.gif

Should we pre-drill holes or just screw straight into the MDF? If the latter, would the MDF split if screwing in close to an edge (c.1")?
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