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Stereo Integrity's new HT Subwoofer - Page 24

post #691 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archaea View Post

Andrew, is that driver rim bent? or is that a rubber ring over the frame that can be pushed down? Hard to tell in the pic?
Otherwise - yes the cone and the driver's general cosmetic look is an improvement!

That's just the rubber outer gasket that probably got pushed up from me handling the driver. Maybe we can do another group purchase or something down the line.

Jonathan - One of the KC guys should rent a big old van and make a trip up/back. Pack 30-40 of these to take home. Maybe we could do a NE theater tour if you made the trip out. smile.gif

ROAD TRIP
Edited by Gorilla83 - 1/6/13 at 10:19am

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post #692 of 2212
I would imagine that being the rubber gasket. Can't expect an 18" long throw driver to be perfect for <200.. But that one looks like it comes close though.

Edit: got beat to the answer.
post #693 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Guys I've measured John's (Seanile) room recently and it actually does have a fair amount of gain. I believe his length is closer to 36' or so and he sits about 18' from the subs. Heck my room is also 44' long and I get a lot of reinforcement below 20hz.
He is still taking a huge step up from the 12" Captivator versions. At 800 a pop I'm not aware of a better value outside of DIY for twin capable 18s?
Sorry I didn't mean to sidetrack further but there was so much chatter I had to clarify things. smile.gif

Agreed at $800 each these are of value but when you get up to 4 of them that putting you in a completely different price range. At $3200 there are other subs I would consider.
post #694 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Well I think this guy is gonna workout just fine smile.gif. I hooked up one to an old 24” box that used to house my maelstrom and have 750 Watts going to it. I was so eager to listen and see some cone movement that I just hooked it up under one main so it's playing full range from 350hz on down. I'm really surprised that it didn't stick out running up that high. Just going by ear, nothing rattles, no bad noises when the cone gets to moving, and it's certainly no one note wonder. Can't wait to have 7 more to join it on the FP14k and all dialed in. Most pleased out the gates.

Exactly -- pretty impressive for a 'budget' driver. Data-Bass had this to say when they tested the prototype:

The response shape as a result is very smooth and will not require much shaping with linear response up well past 400Hz and down only 3dB at 165Hz. Indeed it appears that this driver could be used as the woofer in a three way crossed over as high as 350-400Hz.

Although it doesn't have a whole lot of use for what we will be using them for, awesome characteristic from a big beefy 18" subwoofer!

Bass Addict and I traded a few PM's around the beginning of December (after I paid for my 8) talking about how these things were getting ready to blow up. KaPow!!! biggrin.gif
post #695 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by radman12 View Post

trade you some mcm 2421 for a SI 18 or lab 15's.. pretty good offer, but its only valid for this holiday season

"Some" mcm's...that is a pretty tempting offer, but aren't the holidays over? biggrin.gif
post #696 of 2212
Aaron, I agree these drivers are gonna blow up.
post #697 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Smith View Post


Bass Addict and I traded a few PM's around the beginning of December (after I paid for my 8) talking about how these things were getting ready to blow up. KaPow!!! biggrin.gif

Yeah Aaron, you called that one right. It seems that between the Daytons and SI's the DIY driver market has caught fire.
post #698 of 2212
Trying to finalize my box dimensions. What I'm pretty settled on is a dual opposed, internal dimensions of 18.5 x 18.5 x 45.5. After driver displacement I'm right at 8.5 cubes for the pair before bracing and polyfil. They'd essentially be taller versions of these but configured the same (with about 7” space between drivers) and behind my mains.
post #699 of 2212
Any foreseeable problems?
post #700 of 2212
So these are low and long huh?

Are you using 18's. they are 18.5" wide. Leaves no room on the baffles.
post #701 of 2212
Yes, 18s external dimensions 20” deep, 21” wide, 47” tall. Mounting depth is listed as 9.5” per driver so together 19”. Will I need to go to 22” wide?
post #702 of 2212
Wait a minute. How many drivers in this one box? Four? I'm confused. tongue.gif
post #703 of 2212
2 drivers per box dual opposed. Just like this but much taller and a little more wide and deep.
post #704 of 2212
And the drivers would be situated more to the bottom of the box.
post #705 of 2212
Ok. Wow. Those are going to be really tall. How thick are the walls? 21-18.5=2.5
post #706 of 2212
I am also considering tall and "narrow" box. Not sure if it's going to be ffront firing or DO. I think the DO would be easier to brace. Mine will be even taller, approx 56" external, giving close to 6cu.ft per driver.
post #707 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

And the drivers would be situated more to the bottom of the box.
CHT SS18.2 look, the dual opposed version. Are you going to use yours as stands for the mains?
post #708 of 2212
Yes cht look, 7” taller 2” wider. No, I wouldn't be using them as stands. My Mains would be situated about 8” ahead of the subs. Got some tight space to work with due everything being big. Big Mains and big subs. Brian, 3/4” ply all the way around with an extra 1/2” added for driver faces. I did that on my last build and without included rubber gasket, it recesses just a hair below the cabinet face.
post #709 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Yes cht look, 7” taller 2” wider. No, I wouldn't be using them as stands. My Mains would be situated about 8” ahead of the subs. Got some tight space to work with due everything being big. Big Mains and big subs. Brian, 3/4” ply all the way around with an extra 1/2” added for driver faces. I did that on my last build and without included rubber gasket, it recesses just a hair below the cabinet face.

The surround sticks out an additional 3/4" so you will have issues if you are intending on fabricating grills.
post #710 of 2212
I'm still confused by the measurements. Your saying internal of 18.5 wide. 3/4 material. That sounds more like 20" wide right? Not 21"
post #711 of 2212
No grills popalock, everything is hidden behind the screen. Brian 18.5” deep 3/4” per side to =20”. The other 18.5 equals out to 21” external because I'm using 1.25” per side for the driver baffles.
post #712 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

Yes, 18s external dimensions 20” deep, 21” wide, 47” tall. Mounting depth is listed as 9.5” per driver so together 19”. Will I need to go to 22” wide?

how much clearance between the drivers will be left in your design?
post #713 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by zheka View Post

how much clearance between the drivers will be left in your design?

Based on that I'd guess 1".
post #714 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpmbc View Post

No grills popalock, everything is hidden behind the screen. Brian 18.5” deep 3/4” per side to =20”. The other 18.5 equals out to 21” external because I'm using 1.25” per side for the driver baffles.

Now I'm even more confused.
post #715 of 2212
I think you mean 20" wide. Which is the driver face. And 21" deep. Which is the sides.
post #716 of 2212
Lol yes that's it, got confused myself.
post #717 of 2212
Yeah it does sound like your leaving 1" space between the drivers. That's pretty close. I'm not sure if that's going to be ok.
post #718 of 2212
Quote:
Originally Posted by bass addict View Post

Based on that I'd guess 1".
or none. he mentioned 1/2 extra ply on the baffles

edit: i see that it got sorted out already.
post #719 of 2212
So 22” deep and I'm good?
post #720 of 2212
I told my wife I was going to make an 18" Subwoofer. She wasn't at all excited- Oh well.

I was kind of going back and forth between ported and sealed.

Ported would be 31" x 23" x 22" I think. Sealed would be 28" x 20" x 21" (5 cubic feet net). Going from 5 cubic feet to 6 cubic feet gives me about 1 dB at 20 Hz and down. Not very significant. In all the modeling I've done, up to 800 watts ported or sealed, boosted or unboosted, I've never really came close to Xmax- which is fine, I guess.

Mainly I want a sub that passes the Tron Legacy test. Watch Tron Legacy from start to finish at -5 on my receiver while loudly reproducing the 10-30 Hz stuff and not bottoming out. Not a lot of commercial subs that can do that. My current sub can't either.
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