or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Some DIY Techniques In Calibrating Plasma HDTV
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Some DIY Techniques In Calibrating Plasma HDTV

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
Some DIY Techniques In Calibrating Plasma HDTV

Greetings Colleages:

Here are some of my do it yourself calibration techniques for my plasma tv, posted for your consideration. These are techniques I researched and used mostly from this forum. This is an attempt to encourage posting of techniques from and for others to consider and not to agree or disagree. This thread also assumes that the reader has some knowledge of DIY calibration.


Note: Brightness recommendations updated November 13, 2013

Some of these techniques may be used, while some not. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.

For some of these techniques, use of a colorimeter may or may not be required.

Newcomers: Read Greyscale & Colour Calibration For Dummies as a reference. (Website: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457)

Personal Equipment:

2009 Samsung Plasma 720p hdtv, Colormunki Display Colorimeter, HCFR Calibration Software (Free) - version, AVS Forum 709 Calibration Disk, DVE HD Basics Calibration Disk, and Gamut Calibration Disk (GCD). Meter is stored in plastic container (like a zip lock) with desiccant. Also, Bose 321, Samsung blu ray, and Wii.

Note about multiple devices: Having your hdtv simultaneously hooked up to multiple devices may impact picture quality, known as electromagnetic interference (EMI). I haven't done that much research on this subject, but I have experienced some problems with connecting multiple devices to the tv that went away when disconnecting some of the devices. To avoid this problem, some members suggest using ferrite cores, toroid coils, or audio/video receivers (AVRs).

New: December 2013: If you are using a drop amplifier on a catv (cable) input, place a ferrite core on the input signal cable @ the amplifier's input. This may eliminate interference on signal coming to the amplifier and avoid amplification of the interference on your system.

Brief note about service menu: enter it @ your own risk. I changed the internal model setting from the original "b450" to "b590", which may have affected picture quality. Changing the service menu back to the original model number and recalibrating the settings appear to have improved picture quality. - just a brief note.

Initial Setup:

New: (This probably goes without saying) Make sure that you clean your TV's picture screen with appropriate hdtv or monitor cleaner - Do not use ordinary glass cleaner.

It is recommended that plasma tvs warm up (turned on) for a least 30 minutes. Set all TV's user menu settings for the picture to default settings and turn all "enhancements" off.

In playing a calibration disk, make sure your blu ray or dvd player’s enhancements in its menu (for example, sharpness, etc) are turned off. Display settings should be set for best or optimal viewing. My blu ray is set for 1080i output.

Set Top Box: Your cable box’s internal settings should be set to display the best or optimal picture. For example, picture type 16:9 and output 1080i (for instructions, check with your cable provider). It is recommended by some websites that your set top box be set to native output, if available. But see http://www.hometheater.com/content/1080p-vs-720p-displays for information regarding scaling effects from interactions between various devices and for what set top box input should be used.

Calibration Patterns:

Some of the most seasoned calibrators in this forum recommend the 10% Windows 22% APL found on the GCD and downloadable in this forum, to avoid the automatic brightness limiter (abl) effect on plasmas. (The abl is an automatic dimming if the picture becomes too bright - energy saving feature). I believe a 2.2 gamma level is assumed for these patterns. I have used smaller and other patterns which appear to produce some accurate and inaccurate results. Some forum members recommend the use of regular windows, while some use the small apl window patterns found on the AVS Forum 709 disk. \

For my particular tv, I use the small apl window patterns which appears to be the best one to use for my plasma tv. Calibrating with these smaller patterns will result in a higher gamma measurement. I obtain a average gamma level of 2.3, knowing that using regular windows would be 2.2. However, I now use 10% Windowed patterns for realistic viewing.

Recommended Recently, a seasoned avs forum member recommended the use of 10% window patterns to calibrate plasmas. These windows are non-apl and is said to provide calibrated settings for "actual viewing." I have used these recently, but calibration is a little more difficult than using apl patterns because you have to deal with abl impacts.


Standard Mode, use color tone Cool setting for D93 calibration – see below.
(My hdtv clips Blue levels @ 8000K Color Temperature, so I target this color temperature)

Movie Mode, use color tone Warm 2 setting for D65 calibration.

Cell Light:

The cell light setting for my tv is recommended by some calibrators to be 10. Cell light settings may impact gamma levels and may have to be adjusted to flatten out the gamma curve. When trying to flatten out the gamma curve, adjust cell light setting to see if it positively impacts gamma levels. This may require a few grayscale measurements.


Recommended white peak, using 100% window, is 30 – 40 ftL, depending on your viewing environment. Some members recommend the highest setting, but tinting may occur. I use a white clipping pattern from the AVS Forum 709 disk and the DVE's ramp pattern to see if a high contrast setting is introducing blue or red tinting. If so, lower the setting until the tinting disappears. This setting should be re-checked after adjusting the white balance settings.

Note: Standard mode looks great @ 50 ftL, but may cause eye strain or fatigue in a dark viewing environment (dark room).


New: Nov 2013: Calibrate brightness in normal viewing light environment(s). When I calibrated brightness in an all dark environment, it appears that the picture loses detail in lighter viewing environments. When room lighting conditions are adjusted for normal viewing conditions, the calibrated brightness settings are actually lighter than the settings in an all dark environment and the picture appears to have more detail. Therefore, for movie mode, I calibrate brightness in a slightly dim room (my normal viewing environment for movie mode), and for standard mode, I calibrate brightness in a normally lit room.

Brief Discussion Regarding Brightness Settings & Three Methods:

There are some discussions about brightness settings that are similar and some that are different. What I have done recently is to review those discussions to see if I can ascertain some level of certainty.

Method # 1:
AVS Forum HD 709 Disk, Black Clipping Pattern: This is the pattern that forum members recommend that brightness should be set to where level 16 is black, and levels 17 and above should be flashing. It is described as a low APL pattern. This appears to be where some members are adamant that the absolute correct setting for any and all brightness settings should be where level 17 is flashing, without exception. However, other members may disagree.

Method # 2:

AVS Forum HD 709 Disk, APL Clipping Pattern: This pattern is the 2nd pattern that comes after the Black Clipping Pattern, and is described as an APL for use in a "typical viewing environment." The member creating this disk recommends the use of this pattern over the Black Clipping Pattern if there are any differences. The member also recommends setting the brightness level to where level 19 is "barely flashing" in a typical viewing environment. This appears to be where you get the disagreements between the forum members on whether level 17 or 19 should be flashing.

Method # 3:
DVE HD Pluge Pattern (720P): This pattern shows bars of 4% above black, 2% above black, and 4% below black, and is designed for brightness to be set only where 4% below black just disappears. Some members, like me, without knowing how this pattern was designed, would set brightness to where the 2% bar is barely visible, which apparently leads to crushed blacks and therefore incorrect (as I found out recently). Setting brightness with this pattern with 4% below black bar invisible results in level 18 and above flashing on the Black Clipping Pattern.

My preferred method is to use Method # 2 for typical viewing environment, and appears to add depth to the picture without the black crushing effect. New: Forum members have recommended adjusting brightness to where the 20 bar and higher are flashing. This adds more depth to the picture while avoiding black crush, depending on the display's technology.


Use DVE 720p sharpness pattern if you have a 720p or 768p tv. Use the 1080p pattern if you have a 1080p hdtv. From your viewing distance (use normal viewing, do not squint), start the sharpness setting at 0 and keep raising it until you just start to see artifacts appearing on the outer part of the large ring. Some members suggest lowering the setting one notch, while some recommend keeping the setting when artifacts just start to appear. Many recommend a "0" setting on Samsungs, which actually looks good on my HDTV, but my sharpness settings for movie and standard modes are 4 and 3, respectively.. But see the recommended maximum sharpness technique below.

Use of the DVE 1080p sharpness pattern has thinner lines and may result in a higher setting and sharper picture, depending on your tv. My most recent settings for my tv used the 1080p pattern for a sharper picture. New: I found out that using a 1080p pattern for my 720p (768p) hdtv may not be appropriate. My service manual recommends using 720p patterns during calibrations. Also, the pixel phase pattern (found on the DVE disk) shows that 720p patterns provide better resolution mapping than 1080p patterns.

Recommended One calibrator per youtube recommended setting the sharpness from viewing point and raise sharpness to its maximum setting to where you see no artifacts, and then raise this setting one notch - the none and one technique. As of July 27, 2013. I use this technique.

New Maximum Sharpness Technique: I was reviewing sharpness calibration techniques and may have found a great way to calibrate sharpness. While the edge enhancement is turned on (using the DVE 720p sharpness pattern), from a viewing position without "squinting", I raised the sharpness setting from zero to a level where artifacts are clearly or obviously appearing and lower the setting one notch. This may appear to be same technique as previously described, but the difference is (1) calibrating while the edge enhancement is turned on, and (2) setting the sharpness from a viewing position to where the artifacts are clearly or obviously visible. Squinting, sitting too close to the hdtv, or trying to detect the smallest amount of artifacts may defeat the purpose of trying to obtain the proper balance of sharpness with the less amount of impact from artifacts. I used this technique on recent calibrations to where it raised the sharpness setting in the standard mode (hdmi) from 1 to 7, and movie mode (hdmi) from 2 to 8, and the picture looks great. Edit: these values were also confirmed for the standard and movie modes for the component input.

After setting sharpness, if the picture appears to be slightly fuzzy, you may want to consider using an hdmi cable with ferrite (magnetic) cores and a ferrite core on the power cord near the plug to prevent or reduce electrical interference from the hdtv to other devices/wiring. I use ferrite cores.

Adjusting Sharpness without a pattern: If you are viewing the tv through a set top box with a DVR, you can pause the picture that has a sharp object against a grey background. You will see the same artifacts by raising and lowering the sharpness setting as if you were using a sharpness pattern. Do not pause the picture too long to avoid potential image burn in.

Edge Enhancement: Many members recommend turning off all enhancements, including the edge enhancement setting. However, I would not discount this setting's benefit, which is suppose to remove artifacts to sharpen the picture's images - similar to sharpness setting. When I turn on the edge enhancement, my 768p tv looks exactly like the 1080p LED HDTV in a local sports restaurant. I would recommend its usage if it improves picture quality.

Color and Tint:

I use a blue filter with AVS Forum Color/Tint pattern. There is a 21% red technique, but my tv’s colors are over saturated with an imperfect color gamut and I cannot use the 21% red technique.

OBSERVATION: The 21% red technique uses a measurement of 100% White Window and may be impacted by ABL. The ABL (automatic brightness limiter), however, may actually be "dimming" or lowering the measurement of the 100% White Window which would impact and actually lower the calculation of the 21% red measurement, resulting in a duller color. One method that may be useful, if you want to use this 21% technique, is to use smaller window patterns (apl and non-apl) including white and color patterns, where ABL does not impact the measurement of the 100% white window pattern.

- 2014: I recently used small 1% apl patterns (GCD) for the 21% red method and the technique gave great results similar to using the blue filter method. This shows me that abl may be impacting measurements of the 100% ire window to where the 21% red method may not work with regular windows for plasma displays.

COLOR CALIBRATION TECHNIQUE: Some members suggest using the blue filter if you have nothing else. Some suggest to use default settings for color and tint. I tried the default settings and they were too saturated and slightly off. If you use the blue filter, adjust settings in dark environment and sit close to tv when adjusting color and tint settings. I use the AVS Forum 709 disk, which I believe to be better than DVE for color calibrations.

Other settings:

Gamma Setting: should be set to obtain a level 2.22 gamma level on the graph (for movie mode settings, for standard or day viewing modes - see recommendation below). For a technique for leveling out the gamma curve on the graph, see "ganging technique" below. Also note that the cell light setting may impact the gamma curve.

New 2014: I have discovered that a seasoned and well respected calibrator uses gamma 2.0 for standard mode (day time viewing). The gamma 2.0, per forum discussion, will allow better detail in black images and provide an overall lighter picture. Update - I readjusted all four tvs in my house to gamma 2.0 for day viewing and family members noticed the improvements in picture quality on all of the tvs.

Re: BT 1886 Gamma: I believe that members that use this standard during calibrations is for tvs that do not have good brightness (black) levels where details are lost in the dark scenes. To increase detail for movie mode, they lower the red, blue and green cuts, bias or offsets for window calibrations @ 0% to 30%, for gamma @ 2.4. Another alternative if your tv does not have this option for separately decreasing the levels for these points, merely raise the contrast a notch or two. I do not use these techniques. Search the AVS Forum for better descriptions or guidance. Use of the AVS Forum 709 APL Clipping Pattern with Bar 20 and above flashing may provide a 1886 effect.

Re: Gamma 2.4 with hdtvs without perfect black levels. It is recommended for dark viewing environments for movie/cinema modes to be calibrated at gamma 2.4 between 30 ire and 100 ire, with gamma 2.2 @ 0 ire (adjusting brightness setting higher to decrease gamma @ 0 ire to 2.2). I recently tried this technique and the picture pops a little with increase in color saturations and more detail in dark scenes. This technique is recommended for controlled lighting/dark viewing environments.

Color space should be set to auto. Native settings, at least on my tv, over saturates colors. I use native color space for my standard mode and auto color space for my movie mode. Now, I have readjusted the standard mode with the auto color space, due to native color space over saturation of colors.

White Balance:

Adjust gains first before offsets/cuts.

For D65 Movie Mode/Warm 2 calibration for color temperature 6500K, use coordinates x = 0.313, y = 0.329 @ 80% and 40% window measurements. Color Tone set at Warm2.

For D93 Standard Mode/Cool calibration for color temperature 9300K, use coordinates x = 0.287 and y = 0.295 (updated) @ 80% and 40% windows. Measurements are still in the white space of the gamut. Makes whites appear whiter. Color Tone set at Cool. New: I had to lower the color temperature to 8000K for my tv due to some "internal" color clipping.

For color temperature 12000K - bonus setting, standard mode cool color tone settings with coordinates at x = 0.27178 and y = 0.2825 @ 80% and 40% windows. I think that this is the upper limit of the white space in my tv's CIE color gamut. The picture should appear to be a little whiter than the D93 settings. December 2012 note: My tv clips blue above D93 settings. I do not use this setting.

Recommended Ganging Method: Equally increasing or decreasing rgb (including green) levels after calibrating @ the appropriate coordinates to level out gamma curve. Collectively raising rgb gain level will lower gamma curve between 50% and 100% grey, and lowering rgb gain level will raise gamma curve. Collectively raising and lowering cuts/offsets will have the same impact on gamma curve between 0% and 50% grey.

If you are calibrating multiple inputs and modes, you may have to readjust the greyscale later (I usually do adjustments a day later) to make sure the rgb levels are set properly without the colorimeter being affected or impacted by the various color and greyscale patterns.

TV Size/Resolution: Screen Fit is recommended for 1:1 mapping with 1080i input. You may want to use 16:9 size because screen fit may turn off pixel shift orbiter.

New: Recommended However, I found that the 16:9 picture size is better than the screen fit for my 50" hdtv, by using and viewing the pixel phase pattern (found on the DVE disk). My tv's native resolution is 1366 x 768. TVs with smaller resolutions, such as 1024 x 768, may obtain a better pixel mapping with the screen fit picture size.

HDMI Black Level low or greyed out.

All other enhancements off.

April 18, 2013 Update: The best picture quality for my samsung plasma appears to be using the "native color space" setting for the standard modes and the "auto color space" setting for the movie modes. Native color space may over saturate colors but looks great with the standard mode setting calibrated @ D93. It gives the tv picture a little 3D effect. However, Native color space appears to be too much color for the movie modes. - Please note that you may have to recalibrate (maybe some small changes) your tv's contrast, white balance, etc. after changing the color space settings.

Over The Air - Antenna Viewing:

I use component settings for the TV input settings.

A Note About The Double Conversion UPS Device:

The Double Conversion UPS is a device that converts your incoming AC signal from your outlet to a DC signal and then to a pure sine wave AC signal to your hdtv. I believe that this device is designed to get rid of all noise in your home or office electrical system and deliver "clean electricity" so that your home theater system can perform optimally. Some members disagree with this ups' use, while some others suggest that picture quality is improved. I have a double conversion ups but I do not have any recommendation for its use. March 26, 2013: Use of this UPS will change your settings. For example, I had to readjust contrast setting to higher level to avoid or get rid of a slight red tinting that appeared on a ramp pattern. I also had to adjust the brightness settings. For more information, see this link: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1447257/how-to-make-or-buy-a-pure-sine-wave-ac-regenerator#post_23085409

However, on May 23, 2013, My double conversion ups developed a bus fault, which is not a good thing. The ups cannot be used and must be replaced or repaired. However, the manufacturer has a two/three year warranty. I will keep you updated.

June 15, 2013 Update: I received my repaired double conversion ups back from the manufacturer and hooked it up to the tv and cable box. To attempt to avoid any future problems (such as a bus fault) I turned off the ups, but left it plugged into the outlet to charge the batteries for at least eight hours. Also, in the event of a thunder storm, I will turn off the ups and may even unplug it. This may defeat the purpose of having the ups as a power backup, but my purpose is for picture quality and not backup.

New - August 7, 2013 Leaning towards recommending this device as it appears to improve picture quality but may be cost prohibitive.

The above are the techniques I use for my standard and movie modes. I think some of you may want to use some if not all of these techniques.

For your further consideration, here is a quote from another thread:
i dunno if anyone cares but this was posted for another samsung tv by (Vincentfam) and i tried it for the pn51d450 and it was the best standard picture i have seen so far....i didn't know if anyone wanted to try and work off these settings to get them perfect for our tv

Settings are in IMHO


Tricks of the Trade Calibration
Edited by vincentfam - Yesterday at 5:31 pm
post #2 of 23
Hey Vincent I don't want you to mislead some newbie DIY calibrators. You know the ones just starting out calibrating for the first time. D93 is not an accurate white point to use unless you don't care about accuracy and having your tv image look as close as possible to what the director saw on his calibrated monitor. This is what it really is about otherwise it's personal prefrence. It will appear more white because there is more blue in it but the picture will not be accurate so i would rather you state that people calibrate to D65 and learn to live with this white point. This is what the director intended you to see , this is what the professional monitors are calibrated to. I know Japan likes to be different with D75 I think. Here in the US/Canada/Europe it's D65 313x 329y.
post #3 of 23
necrobump much wink.gif
post #4 of 23
Thread Starter 
Greetings hungro,

I agree that newbie calibrators should not be mislead that D65 is not as accurate as D93 to see what a movie director intended for you to see. D65 is a target for calibrators. These posted methods however are the ones that I use for personal preferences (for both movie and standard modes) instead of primarily looking at accuracy. That's why this thread is posted in the plasma display section of this forum and not the display calibration section. This posting is also useful for others to see that there is an automatic brightness limiter issue with calibrating plasma, and all of the other issues associated with this display.

Edited by vincentfam - 5/1/13 at 4:48am
post #5 of 23
I have to disagree about your method for setting Brightness.

When using the AVSHD disc, bars 17 and above should flash.

Bar 17 is 1% above black and should just barely be visible.

Calibrating to have the 2% bar on DVE just barely visible will result in a loss of shadow detail.
post #6 of 23
Thread Starter 
Silver Serpent,

You may agree or disagree, which is okay. There are many contrary techniques used. The thing "I" do is to use the ones I believe to be best for my viewing. I obtained this brightness technique from this forum. For example, here is a quote from this forum:
I was under the impression that when setting brightness with the DVE pluge pattern, you should set brightness by making the 2% above black bar (closest bar to the 4 point grayscale ramp) JUST visible againts the black background.

Also another quote from a different part of this forum:
i dunno if anyone cares but this was posted for another samsung tv by (Vincentfam) and i tried it for the pn51d450 and it was the best standard picture i have seen so far....i didn't know if anyone wanted to try and work off these settings to get them perfect for our tv

I am not stating which technique is the best, but just revealing the techniques that I have found that are useful for my personal taste.

post #7 of 23
You shouldn't use the term calibration if accuracy isn't your primary objective.
post #8 of 23
Concur with Willie. Also the link in his sig is a good read.
post #9 of 23
Originally Posted by vincentfam View Post

Silver Serpent,

You may agree or disagree, which is okay. There are many contrary techniques used. The thing "I" do is to use the ones I believe to be best for my viewing. I obtained this brightness technique from this forum. For example, here is a quote from this forum:
Also another quote from a different part of this forum:
I am not stating which technique is the best, but just revealing the techniques that I have found that are useful for my personal taste.


Ofcourse, choose the method that you feel works best for you, but speaking in terms of accuracy, 1% above black should 'just' be visible.

The PLUGE pattern on Get Gray is better than DVE for setting brightness.
post #10 of 23
Thread Starter 
Actually Silver Serpent, I wish I had Get Gray.

The brightness technique I used comes from the Website Calibration for Dummies( http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 ). See Step 5.1. I believe that this is a well respected website.

And, by the way, the D93 calibration information was taken from the AVS Forum display calibration section ( http://www.avsforum.com/t/1120246/d93-9300k ) where avs special members discuss calibrations for D93.

Notice in my original posting that I did not refer to the 12,000 color temperature as calibration.
post #11 of 23
I read that with brighter gammas that a higher color temperature may look better.Plasmas have bright gammas on bright picture levels.9300 soundss too high.Maybe something closer too 7000 might be worth trying?
post #12 of 23
Thread Starter 

The purpose of the original posting was to show the various techniques and problems for plasma tvs. Over the years I have discovered the abl problem, D93, and different types of patterns to use for plasmas. Also, I found that the CIE graph has a CCT curve on it. The D65 color target is located on this curve, as well as D93, and both of them are located in the white space of the graph.

Targeting D93, to me, makes the whites appear whiter, giving a pop to the picture. The peak white measured 45ftL, which may be good for a bright room.

You may want to tone down the color temperature a little, as you say, to 7000K. What it comes down to is personal preference. I, myself, usually watch the movie mode calibrated to D65.

The proof, or course, is in the pudding:
i dunno if anyone cares but this was posted for another samsung tv by (Vincentfam) and i tried it for the pn51d450 and it was the best standard picture i have seen so far....i didn't know if anyone wanted to try and work off these settings to get them perfect for our tv

post #13 of 23
whites are blown/washed out at 6500 on mine(sam e450) even with contrast around 80.They would look torch like at 9300 I'm sure.Too much lower than 6500 the whites are too red and the picture gets flat/dull with abl active.

I've enjoyed reading your posts Vincentfam and picked up a few tips
post #14 of 23
Originally Posted by vincentfam View Post

...The proof, or course, is in the pudding:...

Your repeating that other user's praise of your settings is one of the weirdest things I've seen around here.

It also contradicts rather than supports the (apparent) intention of your post. Why copying settings from the web won't get you a calibrated TV
post #15 of 23
Thread Starter 
Actually, there are many quotes. Herein is another one:
Hi, Vincent,

I own two PN42B450 sets, and I have to say I'm very happy. My current settings using Movie, before coming back to this thread just today, were from an earlier post, some two years ago. smile.gif I have to say both your Standard and Movie settings are great. I had thought that Standard/Cool settings were too bright, but it's true that in a lit room or daylight, Movie is just too dark and sometimes you can't see parts of the image.

(the "smile.gif" apparently cannot be copied)
post #16 of 23
This is not calibrating this is personal prefrence if a meter is not being used then warm 2 is the closes to the D65 white point standard. D93 is not used as a standard which is too blue , thus tricking your eyes into believing it's whiter. The same trick they use on the show floor , making blueish picture brighter/whiter so it draws your attention . A properly calibrated picture with a white point of 313x 329y, has plenty of "pop" and contrast. What you guys are doing is personal preference which is ok but it's not calibrating even if you use a meter , the standard is there for a reason , sorry to say this over and over as willie will also agree plus many others. Just don't want any newbies to be mislead by the information you are giving out vincefam.
post #17 of 23
Thread Starter 
Perhaps the word "calibrating" has been used or misused many times in this forum, even by special and senior members. Many times referring to the use of a meter to obtain a target of D65, sometimes referring to other targets. For example, here is a quote from an earlier link in this thread that refers to D93:
I have heard this over the years but never found authoritative verification or documentation of the practice. It would be interesting to hear what Japan's purpose is for this methodology. This could explain why I read in the past that a certain LG TV's service manual instructed repair technicians to calibrate the set to 9300K when completing repair on the device. It would also explain why older Sony Trinitron TVs and Mitsubishi sets had such high color temperatures from the factory in US models, with the accompanying red push characteristic in their designs to compensate for flesh tones.

This is not my quote, but from another (AVS Special Member) member.

As for the newbies, the recommended target is for D65, which is the reason why I posted the link to "Calibration For Dummies" and why this is my usual viewing mode. If people want to see something else, it is up to them on what techniques to use to get there.
Edited by vincentfam - 5/5/13 at 1:29pm
post #18 of 23
Japan likes to be different , I am in Canada, as far as I know US, Canada and Europe set's it to D65 313x 329y. Japan prefers the much bluer whites, and yes this is probably why it's set to being so blue color temperature wise. There was a Joe Kane blurb a couple of years back, I think at one of the shoot outs he said that they are set in the factory to one white point and then all other tv's are made to match it by using offsets to the controls. This standard is not D65 as far as I know.
post #19 of 23
Originally Posted by vincentfam View Post

Actually, there are many quotes. Herein is another one:
(the "smile.gif" apparently cannot be copied)

You're missing the point. You post about calibration techniques. Then, to show how successful your techniques are or how knowledgeable you are, you add a "testimonial" from someone who simply copied someone else's (yours, but that's irrelevant) settings. You're basically negating your own post.

Nothing wrong with providing calibration guidance but you can't do that and then in the same post suggest that copying settings will lead to the same result.
post #20 of 23
Thread Starter 
Once again: the purpose of this thread is to reveal techniques that others may consider and use, & no other "implicit" purpose.
post #21 of 23
Originally Posted by hungro View Post

A properly calibrated picture with a white point of 313x 329y, has plenty of "pop" and contrast. What you guys are doing is personal preference which is ok but it's not calibrating even if you use a meter , ...
Maybe that's so, but as a matter of terminology, "calibrated" doesn't mean "properly calibrated". Whether the standard to which you calibrate is "proper" is a different issue than whether what you are doing is "calibrating". Otherwise, it would be nonsense to speak of "calibrating to the wrong standard".
post #22 of 23
Micheal Chen likes to call it picture setup instead of using the word calibrate. Without a meter and copying someon settings is not considered any form of calibrating. This is picture set up, when you use a meter and set it to a standard this is calibrating as long as you calibrate to the correct white balance. The whole intent is to get the picture as close as possible within the limitations of your tv's picture controls to what the director saw on his professional monitor . In the end if you prefer a personal picture preference with so called calibration techniques then do so and enjoy the tv but you will not be viewing the image as it was intended, some people don't care for this.
post #23 of 23
Thread Starter 
Obviously, there are many descriptions on the usage of the term "calibration." As I demonstrated earlier in this thread, an AVS Special Member used it to describe how manufacturers "calibrate" their sets to D93. I agree with GregLee.

Regardless, the questions are: Do you have a plasma tv, and, have you tried the techniques mentioned in this thread?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Some DIY Techniques In Calibrating Plasma HDTV